I covered this some in my front end rebuild thread, but I think its worth its own thread. Its a great mod, helps with fuel mileage, allows for the use of a locker or having 2wd low. I do not have a locker up front, so my front driveshaft no longer turns when I am driving down the road, much like an F150 or any older truck with hubs. EDIT: Please note I do not have the AWD Tcase anymore, I have a selectable "true" 4x4 BW4406 For the V6 guys, I *suspect* this will be a bolt in deal. That is not confirmed, but the 96 v6 Explorer I pulled my front diff from had the oil pan clear of the knot on the passenger side of the differential. The v8's may run into oil pan clearance issues, but that will be covered. This is mostly a bolt in deal, with a little bit of wiring needed. The CV axles are the same, as is all other drivetrain parts. I got this from a 1996 Eddie Bauer Explorer with 4.10 Gears- Notice the vac globe in the picture. It has an extra port for the valves to pull vacuum from. The "knot" on the passenger side of the differential This is a standard front diff- the only thing different is the disconnect isn't there. All the mounting points are the same as is the driveshaft yoke. Its a drop out, bolt in deal- remove the half shafts, disconnect the driveshaft. Put the "new" diff in and bolt it back up. I got the valves from another 96 as well as the wiring harness from Karl to install on my truck. Mine is a V8, and I don't believe this is a bolt in deal for a stock V8 truck. I have a drop bracket lift, so my differential being lowered helps greatly. This picture is from the bottom, looking straight up- See how close it is to the oil pan? I got it all bolted in, of course I made sure the vac motor and shift fork were in good shape before that. I got the "vacuum control" valves mounted to my header panel, sorry no pictures. There are two wires and two hoses that connect to the diff, then run to the valves. The two wires are just for the indicator, a signal source down, then back up when the diff is engaged. A power wire goes to the valve, +12v at all times. Then, two wires, one for disconnected, one for engaged. All they need is a ground signal to activate the valve. I got all this info from this very useful thread: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=88718 So, I ran 5 wires from the connector on the harness under the hood to the dash. I wired the switch using a relay and painstakingly drilled a hole in my radio bezel for the switch. Here it is off: On: The light is an indicator light for the differential position. Switch position has no effect on the light. Here, the light is on even though the switch is in the off position. That is because I put the Tcase in 4hi engaged the front axle and turned enough to bind the front axle. Turn the switch off, the light won't change until the differential disconnect releases. I am getting 1-2 MPG better fuel mileage consistently with this axle disconnected.