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My '94 extended cab

Discussion in 'Ranger / Mazda Registry' started by Xeek, July 12, 2012.

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    1. Xeek

      Xeek Elite Explorer

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      City, State:
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      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      1991 xlt
      1994 extended cab, 2wd, 3.08 gears:)( !!!!!!), power windows/locks/mirrors, tilt and cruise control, stock 16" wheels from newer rangers with stock tires, grey interior, brand new headlights, brand new radiator, new water pump.
      this will be my dd, but i would like to just make it a little nicer.

      EXTERIOR
      depo clear corners with amber bulbs
      custom dent and paint on passenger side
      5th gen? ranger stock alloy 16" wheels with 235/65R16 tires.
      faded grey trim on bumpers and grille painted black

      INTERIOR
      grey suede headliner
      2nd gen exploder grey OHC
      1st gen exploder lighted vanity double visors
      bucket seats with shorty center console
      leds in dome light and exploder OHC

      MOTOR
      stock 4.0l and a4ld at 180k for now
      removed stock 2" exhaust! replaced with short 2.25: pipe and 18" cherrybomb glasspack(painted to match truck) dumped just after the cab


      SUSPENSION
      '99 exploder 8.8, discs, 3.73s, aussie locker
      stock front end


      FOR THE FUTURE:
      paint work for fading and from the ex-cab dent.
      newer badges from like the 05-08 years
      built 4.0; 422 cam, heat wrapped jba headers, 93tm heads, hf oil pump, custom intake


      as i got it...
      [​IMG]
      [​IMG]
      [​IMG]
      [​IMG]
      [​IMG]
      [​IMG]
      [​IMG]
       
      Last edited: March 27, 2013
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    3. jd4242

      jd4242 Elite Explorer

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      I see a Rallys cup in there;)i like it for a dd street truck;)
       
    4. Xeek

      Xeek Elite Explorer

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      Lol yea I went with a few friends after I picked it up. :)
      Yea I'm very happy with it. Cheap for what I got. It was the guys first vehicle, I showed up knowing all about the 4.0 and tranny etc. I said I'd take care of it and fix it up a little so he was happy it was going to me.
       
    5. Xeek

      Xeek Elite Explorer

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      im starting to think i may need new cats. jd brought it to my attention. i thought it was a small fuel leak or the gas can i had in the back making a rich smell. but along with the spuddering taking off, which i thought was just 3.08s, it makes more sense to be the cats.
      i was only planning on doing a cat back system at some point, i guess im doing a y-pipe-back system lol
       
    6. Anime

      Anime EF YEAH!! Elite Explorer

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      If you need new cats, it might make more sense to just get a single universal 3-way welded on. You can keep the stock Y-pipe (good thing too, they are expensive even for the cruddy crush-bent aftermarket ones) and maybe just replace the O2 sensors if they got messed up from a too-rich condition. You might consider replacing the muffler with a 2.25-2.5" Thrush turbo (just $20-25) from Advance while you're at it.

      You could also just get new front clear corners to go with the new headlights instead of replacing the busted one with another amber unit, they are on ebay all the time and fairly cheap. You might have to keep an eye out for a decent fluted pair though.

      I'd unplug the capacitor NOW. A loose cap is dangerous!!

      Don't even need all that anyway, sell it like you said, and just power the speakers with the HU. If it's got speakers with high power handling (doubt it) sell those too and just get replacement Pioneers or something decent.

      The passenger side dent actually looks pullable. Probably even less work with the interor panel out if access is good. Might need some body filler to look it's best, but it'd be decent even just getting rid of the dent and buffing out the paint marks.
       
    7. Xeek

      Xeek Elite Explorer

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      im still considering what to do for the exhaust. its not a priority.

      the light i really may just get a junkyard one, cause im thinking of doing the smoked headlights/corners and led taillights. then selling my new headlights.

      loose cap? i know nothing of sound systems. i kinda wanna get rid of the stuff just so its not all in the way back there lol. or atleast if i kept the amp, mount it on the back wall and tuck the wires so i dont have to deal with that mess. the guy had a speaker box back there with some subs in it, he was taking it out as i pulled up, so im guessing thats why its such a mess.

      id have to get a few quotes on the dent, if its not, a new panel is $70. and honestly the whole truck could use a paint job anyway
       
    8. Anime

      Anime EF YEAH!! Elite Explorer

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      Clogged cats can cause other damage, so it should be a priority before it causes other issues that might bring up an engine swap sooner than you would like.

      The smoked corners are cheap on ebay too. I don't think the smoked lights are that good, since the quality is usually low and the smoked reflectors don't reflect as much light. I think the new lights, especially if they are OEM Ford, are a good choice.

      Capacitors store energy. So when a cap is connected, it stores a whole bunch of electrical power. A lot. If anything comes in contact with those terminals on the cap, it can cause an explosion. That's why a loose cap is bad. It shouldn't be rolling around in the back. The seatbelt, the amp, even the rear brackets of the seat could all make contact with it, especially if you hit the brakes hard and sent it flying. Don't risk it. I say disconnect the power cable at the battery, and pull the cap now (you might want to give it an hour or more to discharge before actually taking the power cables off the cap itself). Re-attach the cables to the amp if you want, but you don't even need a cap for a small system. If the amp/cap isn't hooked up to the battery, then it's not a risk.

      I prefer pulling dents to welding in patch panels. I've yet to see any shop actually tack weld the entire panel, usually they just do a few tack welds and put body filler over the rest, which of course results in cracks down the road. You'll pay out the wazoo for someone else to fully tack weld a new panel. You can do it yourself with a flux-core MIG over a period of days and get better results. But I'd still only go that way if pulling doesn't leave you with a decent result you think will look good with body filler.
       
    9. Xeek

      Xeek Elite Explorer

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      yea i saw an issue with it having exposed terminals. and on top of that there was an unused + and - cable just loose hanging off of it. it was a direct line from the battery, 0 gauge wire directly to the capacitor with a 250a mega fuse. then split into two looms, one for the amp and another that was just loose. im guessing it was hooked up before he took out his sub box. or he had two amps, one just for the speakers in the sub box?

      capacitor and amp are removed, and i had loads of fun re-wiring the radio...
      and the carpet was removed. sprayed it with carpet cleaner, lightly misted the pressure washer over the carpet to get the soap deep inside. let it sit for an hour then sprayed it til no more soap came out. looks pretty good now. just gonna let it bake in the sun for a few days on the roof of my exploder. drive without carpet during then.

      as far as the body work. that panels gonna be like that for a long time. its not something im concerned about since its gonna take a good amount of time and money.

      i will look into something for the cat tho.
       
    10. Xeek

      Xeek Elite Explorer

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      dont know why i didnt think of it before. just steal the cat off the exploder. im not driving it since its royally screwed up and im gonna do the same setup jd has later on anyway. im a genius! free fix!
       
    11. mr cribb

      mr cribb US Army Retired Elite Explorer

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      What made you sell the one ton?
       
    12. Anime

      Anime EF YEAH!! Elite Explorer

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      Probably the repair estimate.
       
    13. Xeek

      Xeek Elite Explorer

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      lol.
      mr cribb, click on my registry in my sig for the f350 and goto the end of the page
       
    14. mr cribb

      mr cribb US Army Retired Elite Explorer

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      ahhh, I see. That looked like fun until the end.
       
    15. Xeek

      Xeek Elite Explorer

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      lol. pretty much. it was sad, but im glad its gone. that truck never gave me anything but problems. it was always something deciding to not work or break, every week.
       
    16. mr cribb

      mr cribb US Army Retired Elite Explorer

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      yeah that sucks, I've had a few rides like that in the past.
       
    17. Xeek

      Xeek Elite Explorer

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      i cleaned the carpet the other day. i didnt get an after pic, but the whole carpet looks as grey as the ring around the tranny hump hole. besides a few sun fades and rust color around a few of the seat bolt holes

      this was before:
      [​IMG]
       
    18. Xeek

      Xeek Elite Explorer

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    19. Xeek

      Xeek Elite Explorer

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      im gonna go ahead and get a few things i need to get my train horns in service again and put it in the ranger. so.. i was thinking an aux fuse box.

      one of these. prob the 6 slot with ground.
      http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...151&partNumber=3733490&langId=-1#.UAiOk0e5PzE

      i wanna use the big wire from the amp to run from the battery to the fuse box, i think its 0g? and i have one of these 250a mega fuses also(http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/2082/1762/5203380583_large.jpg). the air compressor runs off a 30 or 35amp fuse, and the override switch for the air valve is 15amp. so 45-50amps total worth of stuff inside the aux fuse box. i wouldnt doubt id add more stuff in the future but will i be fine with a 250a fuse on the main wire provided the two accessories i run have their own fuses?
       
    20. Xeek

      Xeek Elite Explorer

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    21. Anime

      Anime EF YEAH!! Elite Explorer

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      Ehhh I was wondering if you'd wind up getting crystal clears rather than finding a fluted pair. I think the crystal corner/fluted headlight deal looks kind of weird, but it's better than a busted one.

      You can use just about any fuse on the main wire to the secondary box, just make sure it's at least rated the same as all the fuses for what's running off it combined, plus a little more for extra headroom so you aren't blowing fuses if you use them all at once. Mostly you just want the protection to keep the wiring from ever getting fried.
       
    22. Xeek

      Xeek Elite Explorer

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      eh it doesnt look too bad. is that the name for it, fluted? all i saw was clear and clear with amber reflective circles. i know the 2nd choice was a little more 'inspection legal' but i thought it looked ugly lol. the fluted ones are what i was trying to find tho, but didnt see any.

      well its got a 250a fuse in it. that deff surpasses my requirements lol. like i said, a total of like 45-50amps of combined fused items leading back to the battery. if anything happened itd blow the wires going from the fuse box to the item itself before hitting the 250a power line im guessing.

      i just need to find some braided/flexable air line now. i dont like the stiff plastic air line hornblastrers provides. it doesnt bend enough for where i want to put it. after i get that, train horns will be next :D
       
    23. Anime

      Anime EF YEAH!! Elite Explorer

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      Fluted is the technical name for it, basically just the name for the lens that directs the light. On the "Euro" clears, like the newer headlights, the reflector itself is shaped to direct the light and the lens is just a smooth piece.

      There are a few fluted ones from time to time:

      http://www.ebay.com/itm/Clear-Corne...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4cf71743a9&vxp=mtr

      but they tend to be overpriced. Maybe you'll find a cheap set later or or just get clear headlamps.

      The way to do it is to match the fuse with the draw of everything behind it. If the stuff behind it only draws 100A max, and you have a 250A fuse, it doesn't offer much protection. You're still protecting the devices from a big amp surge, but not quite the kind of protection for using a fuseable link in the first place. Still better than nothing, but for the price of a fuse, I'd get one to match the present or possible future currrent rather than just slapping the 250A on there.
       
    24. Xeek

      Xeek Elite Explorer

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      damn haha. wish i saw those before. and itll be awhile before i get new headlights, mine are brand new. im fine with how it looks for now.

      so 30a compressor and 15a for air valve. so that mega fuse should only be 45a? do they sell one to fit my fuse block? i wanted to use that cause i already know the 0g wire fits inside it and i already have the wire cut correctly to use that one lol
       
    25. Anime

      Anime EF YEAH!! Elite Explorer

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      Anything is better than getting a ticket for a busted light. Maybe you'll find someone that wants to trade for the fluted corners, or maybe you'll just find a deal on those black headlights. Word of warning on the bulbs though, they usually come with cheap ones that don't last all that long. Keep an eye out for either the parking or signal going out. I suggest the Sylvania Long Life bulbs, they last forever and they are cheap at walmart or Advance.

      Those blade type fuses are more for car audio applications, such as running to a distribution box for a lot of amplifiers, hence the high rating. I don't think they even make them below 100A or something. You'd probably have to go with a Maxi-type fuse, the same big bladed type that's in the factory fuse box.

      I think a trick and clean setup is to use an ATO/Maxi box like the factory one, then use one of the Maxi fuse slots for the main fuse for that box. I'd probably just use a 50A fuse. This is also cheap to do since you can just pull fuse boxes at the junkyard, and just cut one up to work. You can also just snag all the Mini/ATO/Maxi fuses you want from fuse boxes in the salvage yard as well. Beats paying for those fancy fuse boxes and fancy blade fuses. Keep a ziploc baggie full of 'em in the glove compartment.
       
    26. Xeek

      Xeek Elite Explorer

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      got some grey double lighted visors at the junkyard for $16. and i ordered some grey suede headliner, 2yards of it. when the headliner comes in ill run the wires for the lights on the mirrors. and ill steal the 2nd gen OHC out of my exploder and put it in the ranger and run those wires when i do the headliner. you might be able to see the imprint i made already for the OHC between the visors.
      [​IMG]
       

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