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My BII Project

So im going to start on my D35 this weekend, (if it does not rain)

I know you have told me I can use my D-shaft, but on a different site its telling me to cut the d-shaft to make it fit. IS this because they used the ex d-shaft? Also will the Drive Shaft from my D28 just slide into the D35?
 



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the dana 28 driveshaft should fit the Dana 35 TTB possibly with a hybrid u joint
When I did mine I used an explorer style shaft because I also have an explorer transfer case (the 1354 t case has a different front output yoke then the 1350 like yours)
 






okay I found a hybrid u-joint at lordco, I am going to go check it out today. Now I know the shock mounts are different on the D35 radius arms, my shocks are shot as it is now, so if I buy some new shocks for a D35 rather than the D28 will I need to still change the shock mount on the D35?
 






what makes you say they are different?
I installed a 3" lift kit when I went dana 35 so I used new shocks for the lift, but I dont think the shocks are different from dana 28 to dana 35?
the coil bucket is the same not sure about the shock mount on the radius arm, but your dana 28 shocks should fit.
 






aaahhh n/m I was reading it wrong, its the radius arm stud, but I will be using the D35 RA's.

this is what I found about the d-shaft

"Special Fabrication! - You'll need to shorten the front drive shaft about 1 to 1-1/2 inches. This will require a reputable driveline shop."

But does not say if he used a ex d-shaft or not. This was in a Ranger V8 aswell....
 






ranger v8 is completely different
 






Strangest thing happened today. When I turn my truck off, the relay clicks for around 5 to 10 seconds, and while it does that my fuel pump on the frame rail is running. ( I can hear it) Than it just stops when the relay stops. One time it would not start so I connected it myself with a screwdriver and it started. So I go get a new relay and put it in and it does the same thing. Any ideas what that could be?
 






the signal to the relay is controlled by the computer, if the computer is powering up the pumps when the truck is off I would guess this is a computer issue, UNLESS your key switch is bad, meaning even though the key is off the computer is being told its still on. There is a relay in the keyswitch (column) that controls this
 






I took the battery cables off to put my new relay in and when I hooked up the cables back on to the battery it set off the relay. This was with out keys in the truck at all! So would that rule out the keyswitch relay?
 






hmmmm when you hook up the new battery you may hear a relay click, but the fuel pumps should not run.
 






yeah its not a relay click, its many clicks. it goes on for around 5 to 10 seconds. One time the truck would not start, and I had to bridge the connection with a screw driver... Thats why I went and got a new Relay, I was thinking there was just a problem with the relay.
 






So would that rule out the keyswitch relay?
Not necessarily. Mine can turn just enough for the door ding to go on with no keys. :dunno:
 






okay great, HUGE snowstorm, I am coming home from work, truck dies out....................... AGIAN! hahahaha, so I left it there, it now has two tickets. Getting it towed home right now, 3rd tow in 2 weeks.... Decided to get a new truck, but I am keeping this POS and working on it and only using it as a trail rig. Not somthing that needs to be towed to go in a trail but somthing I can slap a weekend pass on when I want to go out.
 






What are some things I can do to my truck now that it is off the road. Things I can take off that made it street legal. Keep in mind I will be driving it to places on the road when I go wheelin. I can get a day permit or weekend etc...
Only thing I know to do is take off the cats.
 






Hey. I was in Surrey yesterday. You guys got soo much more snow and ice than vancouver. I was out around drifting in my friends yota all night.
 






Hey. I was in Surrey yesterday. You guys got soo much more snow and ice than vancouver. I was out around drifting in my friends yota all night.

Yeah we sure do have lots of ice/snow around, my truck broke down right in the middle of it!!!!!! Did you bring your truck back up with you so we can go wheelin up the mtn's? :thumbsup: :thumbdwn:
 






My original B11 DS 84 with a 1350 transfer and using a 94 Ex. TTB35 it was a straight bolt in with no driveshaft mods. This is with a 302 also.
 






First thing I am going to try is replacing the computer.... See if that helps any.
Now when I go looking for one of these, what type of range can I go with the years? ranger? 2wd or 4wd? do these things matter. I assume it does but good to know it it does not matter as much.


I am going to be doing the D35 swap as soon as the snow is gone... its BC so it will rain soon enuff and take it all away. Its been 50/50 with people telling me about the D-shaft either being cut 1 - 1.5" or not needing anything...
 






You are talking about a 4.0L donor?

93 is my favorite year of the OHV 4.0L because it has two 02 sensors, updated heads, NO EGR, and no CAM sensor.

You can use 91-94 to make your swap easier (basically identical to your 2.9L layout and size wise under the hood)
the OHV 4.0L was used from 89-2001, so any year block will work

The 91-94 computer is the one that will make your swap easier

If you plan to get a transmission with your new 4.0L then yes 2wd or 4x4 does matter
 



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hahaha nah not for a 4.0L swap. I still have my 2.9L in the truck. I am going to get gears before 4.0L.... So with that said, I was talking about a 2.9L computer in my 88BII now ;)
 






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