My exhaust is falling apart

[Anime]

The only things I've found with the first gens is the rockers on the engine wear, causing the valve clatter, the slave cylinder on the M5OD can slowly go out and make it tough to shift, and the lower intake gasket can leak. Plus there's the MAS that requires cleaning. Other than that and general maintenance they are great stock rides.

If you're happy with it and there are no problems, upgrade to the Dynomax exhaust and grab a KKM kit (or even just a drop-in K&N air filter), and keep it tuned up and the MAF/MAS and throttle body clean for top performance.

Also keep in mind you can do the exhaust on the cheap with the Dynomax rear pipe ($40) and front pipe ($20), then throw on whatever muffler you want, as long as it's 25-26" long and 2.25" offset/center intake/outlet.

 

[tjsxplodr]

The pipes I just looked at said 2 1/2". That's not 2.25. I pulled up some corners on the muffler heat shields, and the vibration is mostly gone. I have a major gash in the muffler itself, but at least its quieter now lol. I can go to the local junkyard and pickup a stock muffler for $10. I'm going to save and do the exhaust right. New cats, pipes, and muffler.

I think I'm going to slowly fix what goes wrong with it, and then save up to have the major stuff done. I managed to fix a couple tiny things today. I have a squeak on the left front suspension, which the tire shop told me was just not enough lubrication, when last year they told me it was the coil spring isolator...idiots. It probably is the isolators. Everything on this rig is original except for what I've replaced, which hasn't been alot.

Gonna fix the small amount of rust underneath. Gonna rip out the carpet in back and put in vinyl. The carpet is already torn, why not fix it. Got lots of little things I can do here and there. The major things, tho, will take alot longer and more money lol, of course.

I really do like my explorer, it just needs alot of TLC cuz its alot older.

 

[BWTGUY]

Machgirl, The usual mileage on a 4.0 is 330K to 390 K. Rest assured everything will go bad when you least can afford it. The exhaust system is a good investment assuming everything else works. If as I suspect, you are experiencing one failure after another, you may be best served by biting the bullet and moving on to your next choice. In any case, good luck to you! I feel like you, why pay someone else when for the same price you can learn how and be able to do it from now on.

 

[tjsxplodr]

No, not yet. I've just fixed up some of the smaller things that were neglected by previous owners. The main components are still holding up fine. The engine has I think just over 220K on it. The tranny and clutch are original tho as far as I know. The guy I bought it from bought it at auction and so had no history on it. If things really start to go, then I will consider my options. I have to have an SUV, I have two dogs that I take lots of places. I have my mach 1, but NOBODY but people rides in her. When the time comes to decide what to do with the X, I will decide if it's worth saving.

 

[tjsxplodr]

I am now having to sell my mach 1, so I HAVE to keep my EX. Now is the decision as to whether I should upgrade to a nicer V8 model or a 4.0 SOHC OR keep mine, and fix it up as time and money permits.

 

[J_C]

I'm in partial disagreement with a few people that there really is a difference in maintenance on a '97 or newer vs a '91, that being that the panels under the doors start to be eaten alive by rust which is not a cheap repair unless you can do part or all of that yourself, then the floor starts to go but that can be easier to piece paneling together inexpensively since there isn't the body finishing and paint to do.

Then again, depending on the environment you may already have that problem on a '97 or newer too... Idaho gets a bit of snow, if they treat the roads then it's only a matter of time till the sides rust away.

Regardless, I'd fix the exhaust even if it only delays the switch to another truck by a few months as that time can be considered enough to pay for a DIY exhaust rebuild and with the exhaust fixed it has a little more resale value.

Just went through this myself with a car, thought I'd have to replace the whole thing but it turned out all the pipes behind the catalytic converter were solid still, only ended up paying $130 or so for a front pipe welded to the converter, gasket and a couple straps but the nice part is the old cat can be sold as scrap (about $110 is market value for mine) so it only cost me ~$20 total... besides the beer.

 

[tjsxplodr]

So is it the 91 or the 97 and newer that has the under door rust problems? I'm having rust problems on my rear quarter panels, right at the top of the fender well.
Idaho uses all kinds of crap on the roads in the winter....and I know that's why alot of cars have rust underneath.
I can fix the exhaust....that's not that hard. Having it done won't be that expensive. I just don't know if I want to get someone else's headache vs keeping mine and fixing it up as I can.

 

[J_C]

AFAIK the '97 and newer rust out faster there BUT yours has 6 years head start. It seems you haven't noticed that yet so you might probe around underneath with an ice pick to see if it makes any holes... and do the same when inspecting a newer one you might consider purchasing.

 

[tjsxplodr]

Fantastic. Just what I didn't want to hear. I really don't need a rustbucket.

 

[tjsxplodr]

Well, I did a 'use a pick' deal underneath on the panels etc of my rig, and no big holes emerged, so I think I'm safe to say that there's no rusty panels underneath. At least not right now. I think before winter hits, I am going to use that rust preventer paint stuff and get what I can see.

 

[J_C]

The main problem on mine was there is a box-like support they put on the sides to reinforce it for models with running boards and you can't get inside access to that box (AFAIK) to even apply the rust preventer paint unless you drill a hole in it and use a wand to apply the paint, and that helps trap winter slush between it and the rocker panel.

I didn't realize how bad it was till I saw the paint on the panel under the door starting to bubble and peel, then poking around a tugging on the end panel of that box just in front of the rear wheel well, it was cracker crumbly.

On a side note, anybody know a way to get rust stains out of the clear coat on the running board? I figured rubbing compound would just strip the clear coat off, though now I'm being picky as I could live with that minor blemish, it's not worth painting.

 

[Iron Weasel]

I just don't know if I want to get someone else's headache vs keeping mine and fixing it up as I can.

98% of used cars older than 3 or 4 years are "someone else's headache". If the vehicle were in excellent condition, they probably wouldn't be selling it in the first place.

One "fun" and educational thing you can do is to check around and see what a newer SUV that has the features you need is running in your area then compare that against the cost of what it would take to fix the one you already have. Newer vehicles typically don't have as many problems as older ones, but that's not always a guarantee. Since you already have a 4.0 core, you could very well have that rebuilt and get another 200k miles out of it and then fix everything else for less than 1/3 of what a newer SUV would cost.
On the other hand, a newer vehicle would likely have better features and less miles overall.

My personal opinion is to keep and fix what you already have so you're not buying another "someone else's headache".

 

[tjsxplodr]

Yeah I figure over time fixing mine would save me money vs picking up something else.

 

[tjsxplodr]

Is it possible to use only 1 cat system instead of a 2 cat system that is stock on the '91's? There is a bigg difference in price between the two, and next week I am having a Dynomax catback installed, and want to get new cats as well.

 

[J_C]

Do you have emissions checks? Would it work, yes, but is it legal to do, I doubt. I'd "guess" the single cat systems were for the 2.x liter Ranger trucks.

I don't know the prices on what you were looking at ($250 or so?) but you might be able to use universal catalytic converters which are about $75 each and places like Advanced Auto Parts sometimes have discount coupons, for example right now there's $40 off $100+ orders with coupon code LC123, or $16 off $40+, $24 off $60+, $32 off $80+ if you split it into two orders... assuming it isn't limited to one code use per customer in which case another code P20 takes 20% off an order, OR $10 off $30+, $20 off $50+, or $30 off $100+ orders with code A123.

If those codes expire you can find new codes via web search.

 

[Iron Weasel]

If you go to an exhaust shop, they can probably fab up a system using only one converter.

It's an emission reduction to have two converters, and some newer cars that I've seen usually have one close to each exhaust manifold and then another one closer to the muffler for a total of 3 on a V6 or V8 and two on a 4 cylinder. On the 91 - 94 Explorers, both converters are next to each other just downstream of the "Y" portion. The main purpose of having multiple converters is to reduce emissions just a bit more than using one converter.

Idaho isn't a strictly regulated like California is, so you should be fine using a custom system with just one converter, but in some places if the exhaust isn't 100% OE accurate, then you can run into some problems. Here in New Mexico, as long as you have a converter then you're fine, even if your car came from the factory with multiple converters. Last time I checked, a muffler wasn't even a required device in this state.....

 

[tjsxplodr]

Well, they decided that EVERY vehicle in the county I live in must now have emissions done every two years. I guess I will just stick to the stock setup.

 

[Iron Weasel]

I'm guessing you live in Ada county (or the idaho.gov website hasn't been updated).

Ada County Air Quality Board
(208) 377-9191
http://www.emissiontest.org

D. Standards


1. Tampering: Motor vehicles of the model years 1984 and newer are to be inspected for the presence of the catalytic converter, and air injection system. Motor vehicles which have had those systems removed or defeated are to be denied a Certificate of Compliance until the motor vehicle owner restores them to their original or operating condition. (The systems are not required to be installed on motor vehicles which at the time of production did not have the system installed by the manufacturer.) WAIVERS UNDER SECTION VI.F. DO NOT APPLY. However, the cost of repairs to vehicle emission systems may be included for waiver requirements for additional repairs after the tampered emissions system is fully functional.

I Am Not A Lawyer - Now....my interpretation of that section is that as long as you have at least one catalytic converter, you're OK assuming that you pass the "sniffer" test. If you want to be 100% sure, give 'em a call and ask.

 

[tjsxplodr]

Yeah, I do, on the very outskirts of Ada County. We live in Kuna, ID which didn't need to have emissions testing before now. Really irks me lol. So now, in 2011, both my EX and my hubby's F150 will have to be tested in the same year, as both models were made in odd year 1991. Odd year is odd model year, even year say 2010 is even model year like 2006.

I'll prolly call them and ask, just to be sure. I can't wait to get my Dynomax!!!! Gonna have a nice tip on the end too hehe.

 

[Neil1750825]

Get yourself some baling wire and a good set of bolt cutters. Rip all the loose stuff off and tie up everything else. It'll be good for another 30k for sure.