Discussion in 'Need for Speed!' started by Dono, May 22, 2015.
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Expensive, but if it saves another head gasket or another hydro lock its worth every penny.
I have optima red tops, they are a little cheaper if I remember correctly.
I did have one yellow top years ago, never had any trouble with it.
That earls gasket looks like it doesn't quite match up.
Your right on the gasket.
Holding it up against the reflex, the inside diameter is almost exactly the same.
So, although the 'squishy' part is a different shape on the outside edge, it gets the same sealing surface as the reflex gasket.
I sure hope it holds.
On the yellowtop, it was only a couple dollars more (no idea why) and the cca was the same (or almost if my memory is still ok).
The deep cycle part might keep me from running thru batterys the agm part stop corrosion. its all experimenting and learning.
Cool parts, and I like the Earl's gaskets, hope they last.
The knock sensor is nice, do you have the Viper or whatever the name was for the special device to make use of the knock sensor? I'll need that also for my truck. I have an oil bulkhead connector in my 347 there in that little depression of the block. I was aiming it at a turbo, the oil source, but I'll use it to run a pre-oiler this time.
How was the block there to drill and tap into the cast iron? That's hard to do.
The threaded hole was already there.
The block is from an F-150 and they had knock sensors from the factory.
And, yes, I have the J&S safeguard Viper unit.
I've come to the conclusion that one hint of detonation can lift a head and then the gasket issues start.
Ah, and thanks again for the link. I've seen another guy use it on his Saleen Mustang, with 1200hp using a 358, KB 2800 blower and intercooler, race car only of course. It's worth it if you have any decent boost.
Don, we are going to find out.
I'm thinking its worth it even with low/moderate boost.
For what ever reason, my builds always have detonation issues and seem to detonate where others with the same combo does not. I don't know why. Even this re-assembly I had the cam re-degree'd and it ended up exactly where it was last time.
At 8lbs boost, I was at 7 degree's timing(That's only 17 degree's total). Don Lasota says that's too low and creates way too much heat in the exhaust. So, this summer (If the motor doesn't break again) its on my list to add water/meth injection also. Hopefully this allows for more timing, and allows me to turn up the boost a bit more.
The limiting factor seems to be octane. A knock sensor will at least retard timing when bad things are happening. As long as my motor isn't noisy internally and the sensor can distinguish between normal engine noise and knocking.
i forgot you had got that vampire kit. hell, both you and i have added some much stuff to our trucks its amazing we even remember haft of the stuff. and for the timing, don said the same thing to me. i think we now know why i burned up 2 heater boxes last summer....
We need to be careful. Pump gas only goes so far.
At least your timing was still around 17 degrees (27 total). I think that's actually ok.
I'll need to get that water/meth kit installed before upping the boost this time. lol.
My weekend is full. Concert Friday night, bartending Saturday night. We will have to see how it goes. Saturday afternoon might be a good day to do some motor installing. The late nights are getting harder and harder on me.
you know my number. i am probably just as antsy as you are to get your truck up and running.
I took the afternoon off today to fire my motor.
As I'm pouring coolant in, I hear dripping on the ground.
I look around.
Not me missing the rad fill spout or the funnel over flowing.
Not any tad hoses
Not the heater pipe or heater hoses
So, I climb underneath with a light ans see the passenger header soaked and dripping. FML
So, I spent my evening removing the motor.
Tim's coming over tomorrow and making me a cradle. I'm taking the whole motor back, fully assembled.
For the money spent so far, I'm sure I could be driving a 2014 explorer sport right now.
Did you happen to see just where the coolant was coming from?
No. With the header off you would be able to see it. Just plug the water pump holes and fill the block with water.
I'm still debating pulling the header off, but I think I'm going to just take the hole complete motor in.
Something is probably cracked, I do have a small concern that the area leaking is the exact area that I had to clearance for the header, I just can't see it being the issue though.
Well, I can clearly see where I clearanced the head its leaking.
I'm getting prepared for the worst.
Problem is, If the head casting gets replaced, the header needs to be modified.
Modify the header, and the egr tube needs modifying.
I just can't see what other options there are. I hope I get better news than I'm expecting from the machine shop.
Special props to Tim again. By the time I made it home from work, he had already welded up the engine stand. The complete motor is loaded up and in the back of the Honda CRV.
with the head being alum, they should be able to weld it, and not have to replace it. i wounder if they can do any build up from the inside of the water jacket. that also isnt the same spot that i thought there was a imperfection was it? no biggie on the stand either. how many hours have you spent tuning my garbage? lol
Did you pressure test it to see exactly where the coolant was coming out?
Nope. I just dropped the motor off.
They are 99.9% sure that I was on the edge of blowing thru to a coolant passage, and it has broken thru.
They are going to add water and pressure test before pulling the head.
If this is the issue, they are pretty sure they can have it welded up.
Here's where we think the problem spot is. I never would have believed there would be a coolant passage there. It will be pressure tested
(or at least re-filled and examined closely) .before coming apart.
I'm sure that's the issue, It was dripping so badly that I can't see it being head gasket. Too bad the upper intake and head has to come off again.
I'm still struggling with my torque converter spacing only being 1/32" between TC and flex plate. I spoke with TCS about it, and they say its fine (even though spec is between 1/8" to 3/16" (or 4/32" to 6/32"). The fact that the thrust bearing was wiped out makes me extremely nervous. I have another call in to them. I think I need to push them to fix this.
Torque converter is boxed, and heading to get a hair cut tomorrow.
TCS will take off between 3 to 4/32" I'll be in spec. I wouldn't be able to sleep unless I did this.
Like Ford Strokers says, there is no reason for a thrust bearing to go out if the crank surface has been polished unless there's an oiling issue or something is pushing on it. Cover all bases, I say.
Remember how I said previously to just clearance the TW170 heads to fit torquemonster headers? DON'T.
Water passages are Very close. Where that dark spot is, it only took a bit of pressure with a drill bit to blow thru to the water passage, and the water passage is not just one spot, its all along the outside of the head.
This creates a new problem for us that have aftermarket heads using torquemonster headers.
So, once the head is fixed (I'm having the other <Drivers side> head sonic tested also where I clearanced the head for the flange just to be safe) I will probably be making a trip to a fabricator with the motor, headers, and upper intake to have the headers and egr tube modified. Tim, this will probably be Sandale.
I'm making good use of the engine cradle Tim made for me.
dug in my thread and found this picture. i wounder if you went too far for clearance. i know mine, you can probably fit a sheet of paper between the header and head. wished i could remember just how much i took off. then again, my heads and yours are different part numbers as well, so that to might be all the difference in the world.
i dont think you'll go wrong with sandale either (for those that are wondering what sandale is, its the foose design for us here in manitoba). i also wanna say ask them what a set of custom larger tube headers would cost for them to make, but i know it would be in the 1500 range or more.
as for the cradle, good thing i never threw it out. has been sitting unfinished for over a year. just not too proud of the "welding" job i did on it lol
I did go to far, but on that side you still could not fit a piece of paper in between the header and head. That being said, I did have header wrap on. They are going to try cutting the header wrap off and try to make the header fit. There is still a good depression in the head after the welding was done, so here's hoping.
I'm just letting the machinist's assembly guy look at it and try to make it fit. He was the one that suggested Sandale if he can't comfortably make the header work.
I think this is a blessing in disguise, as I was really uncomfortable with the tight clearance on the torque converter.
I feel like I'm the idiot fighting everyone whose job it is to know, trying to get this thing in tolerance. I just kept hearing "Just run it, and don't worry about it". I guess I must see the world differently than others, as I saw real risk of the torque converter pushing on the flex plate. If the torque converter is pushing on the flex plate, the thrust bearing is getting un-necessary pressure. Seems simple to me, but not to others in the business. Maybe I'm wrong, but I still expect that Torque converter to flex plate spacing to be extremely close to being within specifications that are set out by the manufacturer. In my case, 1/32 (Spec is a minimum of 4/32") of ballooning of the TC and there would be pressure on the thrust bearing. Thats it, thats all. Why is that so difficult to understand??
Tim, Brazier Race and Machine was impressed with the stand. They only see wood ones.
sure. because if it screws up, its not them paying for the damage. now if you turned around, said something like give it to me in writing. if it tares itself apart, you will cover all costs including paying me to r&r it right down the the beer i will drink doing it, then i would like to see their answer
Quote of the day:
if it tares itself apart, you will cover all costs including paying me to r&r it right down the the beer i will drink doing it
LOL, that is awesome!
So the agony of trying to find parts for an Explorer has led to this. Because we can not just buy stuff that just fits we have to customize things along the way.
A lot of things going wrong during the process, but you are getting them all worked out now.
You attention to detail and not letting others tell you to "just run it" will have you overcome all this.
In a matter of time it will be up and running and better than before!