My new 347

CDW6212R · June 17, 2015

I'd think of some easy/cheap fluid to use to flush through that front area, anything that will drain out. Water isn't great, but you already went that route.

You can spin the engine with the timing chain disconnected.

That engine is still new, when it does come alive, the oil needs to be replaced again very very soon anyway, 20 minutes is a typical period. So there should be little worry from using a cheap fluid etc, now, to flush things out. That first early oil/filter change should remove any residual fluid chemicals.

Dono · June 17, 2015

good and bad....
The new gear is holding up. Before installing the new synchro, I used a bunch of engine assembly lube on the gear. I figured this stuff is good and sticky, and might help initial start up.
I changed the oil (and filter) after getting the truck good and warm. No old gear bits....at all.
I had a magnet on the bottom of the pan before pulling the drain plug. I installed a magnetic drain plug and put the magnet back on the pan, and the new filter.

I'll go for a short test drive, and pending the outcome of that, I'll make an appointment at the exhaust shop. Maybe after putting a few miles on, I'll change the oil again in hopes of seeing old gear come out.

4pointslow, you are dead on with what 'could' happen.

Do I feel lucky? I'm not sure yet.

Edit: back from my test drive. No issues, no engine codes. And, oil pressure is still there. Hopefully I can get the exhaust back on sooner than later.

Edit2: Drove to the exhaust shop with no issues. I'm getting more comfortable that the drive gear shredding was a one off.

4pointslow · June 18, 2015

New Engine

I am keeping my fingers crossed for you!
I want to race two boosted 347 Explorers next year right before Carlisle AFN!
Especially since it will be Explorerforum's 20th next year too! It will be a great year!

jd4242 · June 18, 2015

4pointslow said:
I am keeping my fingers crossed for you!
I want to race two boosted 347 Explorers next year right before Carlisle AFN!
Especially since it will be Explorerforum's 20th next year too! It will be a great year!

I hear race..lol think we would have our hands FULL with them!!

Dono · June 18, 2015

I sure hope I can get some track time in this summer. I havn't actually piloted down the 1/4 for 30 years. So, that might as well be never.

Trucks at the exhaust shop. They are not sure if they will get to it till Monday for sure. I'm ok with that, its a fishing weekend (Beer, poker, and a bit of fishing) with the neighborhood guys at a lake.

While the exhaust shop is at it, there are going to make a mod requiring me to shut off my rear o2 sensors. That should keep the exhaust a bit hotter (more air volume) and spool the turbo faster. Besides, when Tim was handling the front exhaust pieces they were kinda rattling, and that would not be good for the turbo turbine.

vroomzoomboom · June 18, 2015

4pointslow said:
I am keeping my fingers crossed for you!
I want to race two boosted 347 Explorers next year right before Carlisle AFN!
Especially since it will be Explorerforum's 20th next year too! It will be a great year!

good thing we have a track here. would you like directions, or do you have a GPS

Dono · June 23, 2015

I picked up my truck from the exhaust shop today. It sounds, um, aggressive.
One of the sons at the shop quipped 'It sounds just like a modified mustang with a turbo'. I might see if a open chamber straight thru muffler can be fit after the turbo, but won't rush this as tuning might change the sound some.

I topped up fluids (Tranny still a bit low from the torque converter change), power steering, and thats about it.

I did notice a small puddle under the truck, kind of between the engine and tranny. A quick swipe of a cloth and....coolant. It seems one of my heater core to motor connections are not sealing as well as it should. I managed to get in there and squeeze the clamp a bit and lower it slightly. I hope that does it.

I wen't for a drive and did some logging just as it started to storm. I'm sure I was able to get some good logging for James to work with.

I can definitely feel the higher stall torque converter in there. Its not an issue, it just feels 'looser'. It still locks up good and tight under light loads, so it won't affect gas mileage.

Warm starts take more time than they should. Again, I would expect tuning can fix that.

With the hood up and motor running I can definitely hear more valve train noise. The cam I have isn't that aggressive, but there is quite a bit more lift and duration than stock.

and, the question everyone wants answered, I still have oil pressure. If the gear bits come out of the motor on the next oil change my life will be complete.

Oh, and, I couldn't exactly check if that coolant drip was still there after my logging drive due to the storm.

End of the day.....I'm driving my truck to work tomorrow. Happy Days!!

vroomzoomboom · June 23, 2015

i told you its going to have a bit of a lumpy idle lol. glen must thing you and i are nuts. then again he doesnt know what i changed......yet.....

4pointslow · June 24, 2015

Torque converter

What stall speed converter did you go with?

Glad it is up and running!

Dono · June 24, 2015

Stall speed is an estimated 2400 rpm.

The coolant leak at the back of the block is getting worse. I think it might be the lower intake gasket. I carefully seated it, torqued it probably 10 times while the motor was out of the truck.....Ugh.

I'll pull the upper intake tonight and confirm where the leak is. Even if the lower intake gaskets are not leaking, the lower is due for a re-torque anyway.

shucker1 · June 24, 2015

Dono,

Sorry to hear about the leak.

One question if you don't mind. You said you have TMH as headers. What type of gasket did you use?

I have a new set of TMH for mine and when I was mocking up parts on the engine stand, checking fits between valve covers and spark plug & plug wire angles, I noticed some interfere between to outlet flange and the side of the block where it meets the oil pan. Not much, just touching a little. I had no gaskets installed.

I got the set of TMH brand new direct from Al's last year when I was doing a road job in Ventura, CA.

I hate to shave on the block flange or the header outlet flange. I'm hoping that the gasket will push it out enough to eliminate the rub.

Thanks
Chris

Dono · June 24, 2015

remflex 3028 in my opinion seem to be the most forgiving header gasket.

I tracked down my leak to the drivers side.

I 'think' its either head studs or the head its self.
The lower intake is dry and tight. Dripping is clearly on to the drivers side exhaust manifold.

I snapped a pic of what at least two head studs look like on the drivers side.
The dripping happens with the rad under pressure and its a slow drip.

I did use pipe joint compound on the bottom of the studs before inserting them, but maybe not enough?

What do I try next? Million dollar question. Pull the header, then one stud at a time and try more pipe sealant? Thoughts any one?

jd4242 · June 24, 2015

Dont head studs need to be re-torq after so many miles??what type of head gaskets did you use??

Dono · June 24, 2015

Head Gaskets Fel-Pro 9333PT1

Im told no re-torque necessary. I did retorque them a bunch of times before the motor went in. I did find after installing the lower intake that the out sides of the head has loosened some.

Very strange. I have emailed Ford Strokers. There might be some words of wisdom there.

btw, I have listed every part I used on post 1. I thought it would be an easy reference.

jd4242 · June 24, 2015

Dono said:
Head Gaskets Fel-Pro 9333PT1

Im told no re-torque necessary. I did retorque them a bunch of times before the motor went in. I did find after installing the lower intake that the out sides of the head has loosened some.

Very strange. I have emailed Ford Strokers. There might be some words of wisdom there.

Swear ive always redone them after heat cycles but may have been do to copper gaskets tho..they seem to be famous for small leaks around water jackets. .

Swear that was they whole good point to TTY bolts on stock motors

Dono · June 24, 2015

There is so little room in that engine bay. Retorquing heads would be a major undertaking.

jd4242 · June 24, 2015

Dono said:
There is so little room in that engine bay. Retorquing heads would be a major undertaking.

Ooo i know..when my builder reminded me of that i wasnt happy because removing my sc and mount is NOT easy..but know 100% with head bolts and copper,they need to be done

shucker1 · June 25, 2015

As for pipe sealant try using some Loctite 567. Expensive, but we use it in the field all of the time.

P.S. Thanks for the gasket recommendation.

Chris

CDW6212R · June 25, 2015

Dono said:
There is so little room in that engine bay. Retorquing heads would be a major undertaking.

You can remove a head bolt, or stud, one at a time if needed. Let Woody tell you that and how he suggests resealing things. It's odd to have a leak like that, but hopefully you can get to it.

If it is adding thread sealant again, be careful and don't use too much, it only takes an amount to coat/seal a couple of threads or so. Don't get it at the bottom of the hole, hydro-locking is possible for any bolt. I've only done that on a couple of stock valve cover bolt holes before, with too much RTV.

Dono · June 25, 2015

I'm thinking I didn't use enough sealant. That seems to be the issue.
There is nothing else on that side that can cause an issue like this other than a frost plug. Cracked head is a possibility, but a coolant port cracked to the outside?

Seeing the head studs wet like that makes my conclusion the most obvious, but not necessarily correct.

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