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NA5R55E2-3FT (Not Another 5R55E 2-3 Flare Thread!)

Discussion in 'Transmissions & Transfer Cases' started by Fredness, August 7, 2010.

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    1. Fredness

      Fredness Elite Explorer

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      Pix to follow - but in the mean time you will have to use your imagination :D
      The external trans filter was removed, so I could install the new cooler set up. The factory lines were scuffed with a green scrubby to get them smooth and clean. I then measured and marked the locations for cuts - the second time was the charm. I had to rebend some of the factory cooling lines, just make sure they are bent around something, otherwise they will kink.
      The thermostat is between the oil to water cooler (in the radiator) and the oil to air cooler installed in front of the AC Condenser. I used the condenser mounting bracket, and one of the existing holes - only had to drill one hole. There is a welded lip that helps align the new bracket - pure luck. The bracket is diamond tread (what else?), and the rubber isolators are used to hold the bracket in place. Blue lock-tite was used, along with the washer, lockwasher and nut. The thermostat is connected via the rubber isolators, and the trans side is 37* flare fittings, sleeves and 6 AN tube nuts. This allows for some movement/vibration and that won't disturb the thermostat or mount.
      The opposite end that goes to the cooler is 90* end to Russell nylon braided hose to straight ends that attach to the cooler.
      Hose assembly is simple, just watch that you don't scratch the aluminum ends - if so, Sharpie(r) to the rescue! Nylon braided line, while not as flashy as braided stainless, is MUCH easier to assemble, the keys are assembly lube and clean cuts.
      Test drive was uneventful (my favorite!), 40+ miles, no leaks. At the 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and end marks, I stopped and checked temperatures. The fluid wasn't moving through the T-Stat until the 3/4 mark, the external temp of the T-Stat was 97*, the inlet to the cooler (bottom) was 97* and the top of the cooler (output) was 62*.
      The factory cooler was good for a 20* temperature drop, this one appears to be good for at least 35*. Wow.

      Will evaluate and watch for leaks. Tomorrow is data logging to compare to the previous runs on the same course, same loads and speeds. Will post the results here, but the picture will be in the appropriate threads above.

      As of new? AN hose and fittings are the "bomb!" Clean install, outstanding look and (so far) 100% leak-free.
       
      Last edited: October 4, 2010
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    3. Fredness

      Fredness Elite Explorer

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      Kick Ass OTA w/ T-Stat:
      With an InfraRed Thermometer:

      Start:
      Trans Pan: 124*
      Coolant: 182*
      Air: 58*
      Radiator:
      Inlet tank: 88*
      Outlet tank: 83*
      (Indicative of no flow - Engine T-Stat closed)
      Radiator Trans Cooler:
      Inlet: 86* (Low flow from trans)
      Outlet: 80*
      TStat:
      Body: 90*
      OTA Trans Cooler:
      Inlet: 68* (No flow though OTA Cooler)
      Outlet: 68*

      End:
      Trans Pan: 167* (171* PEAK)
      Coolant: 196*
      Air: 58*
      Radiator:
      Inlet tank: 167*
      Outlet tank: 107*

      Radiator Cooler:
      Inlet: 133* (Indicative of ATF flow)
      Outlet: 121* (Same as Radiator Outlet tank)
      T-Stat
      Body: 118* (Indicative of ATF flow)
      OTA Cooler
      Inlet: 83* (T-Stat wide open)
      Outlet: 67*

      So, the 35* drop with no T-Stat is WAY down to a 4* drop. But, the trans temp is rock solid stable (see below), and the pan stayed at 163 to 167 unless under a load (hills).

      [​IMG]

      Before, cold and slow to warm.

      [​IMG]

      After, quick to warm and stable under load.

      [​IMG]

      This is the Explorer OTA Cooler - colder and less stable.

      [​IMG]

      This is the New cooler, 167 to 172* - Nice and FLAT!

      [​IMG]

      T-Stat input - 37* flare 6AN connection

      [​IMG]

      90* ends to hose, and anti-vibration mount - to keep line vibration from causing issues.

      [​IMG]

      Looking up at the T-Stat, with hoses.

      [​IMG]

      From below...

      [​IMG]

      Will get a better picture when the nose is back off.
       
      Last edited: October 8, 2010
    4. Fredness

      Fredness Elite Explorer

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      [​IMG]

      Here is the total damage, this is a blown up version of the others (shorter term and tighter window), so there is more "action".
      ----- "ECT" is just the Engine Coolant Temperature for reference.
      ----- "Stock" is just that - post rebuild with the Ford VB, 4x4 pan, no filter, factory cooler.
      ----- "Final Trans Temp" is post rebuild with the CVB, PML Pan, no filter, B&M cooler, Ext. T-Stat and lines.
      ----- "No OTA" is post rebuild with the CVB, 4x4 pan, external filter and no factory cooler.
      ----- "Desired" is just a flat 180* line for reference.

      The CVB with the Sonnax mods made a MAJOR contribution to the cooling due to the increased flow. Note how only the "Stock" goes wild in the center, even with the external cooler! CVB is much more stable and shows a major drop, even with NO external cooler.
      Larger B&M cooler and external T-Stat do not suffer from heat soak late in the run like all the others.
       
      Last edited: October 10, 2010
    5. tmarat

      tmarat New Member

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      Sorry for brining up this year old thread. You have opened the transmission 4 times

      1 - to "fix" the flare
      2 - to go back to stock after I found the shavings and have the dealer do it
      3 - to go back to the CVB for better performance than the stock VB
      4 - to fix the gasket issue

      The flare was fixed with the new valve body and solenoids. The valve body that you purchased for 247$, did it include the solenoids also?
      But what did the shop do? Replaced the servos, meaning the solenoids? And this fixed the transmission issue also? So you did not really need to replace the valve body?
      Then other steps were for various mods etc.
      I have almost no info on auto transmissions, just trying to understand.
       
    6. Fredness

      Fredness Elite Explorer

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      The flare was fixed with the new valve body and solenoids. Not for long, the added flow masked the symptoms.
      The valve body that you purchased for 247$, did it include the solenoids also? Yes
      But what did the shop do? Total rebuild under warranty
      Replaced the servos, meaning the solenoids? Servos meaning servos, different parts.
      And this fixed the transmission issue also? Yes, completely fixed
      So you did not really need to replace the valve body? Correct, but the trans behaves SOoooo much better now with the CVB valve body and mods.

      Almost 2 years later and it still shifts like a champ.
       
    7. ranger7ltr

      ranger7ltr Elite Explorer

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      Questions about the servos?

      Hello Fredness... Good to see you on here again...Well not good because of more trany problems though...Anyway did you change the servos or did the shop that rebuilt the tranny change them out? Of course I am gonna ask why weren't they changed when the tranny was rebuilt?

      And did you see any wear on the servo body or the cap at all? Or was the rubber just brittle and not sealing like it should have? I am at a point of changing both of mine to see if they are the problem with the flaring issues I am seeing even after replacing the vb from Donny...

      BTW I used your data logging to step it up and get my B&M stacked plate cooler functioning on my truck...I installed it years ago just never plumbed it...Now I have one less thing to worry about on this truck...
       
      Last edited: June 13, 2012
    8. Fredness

      Fredness Elite Explorer

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      Wow, there's a delay!
      Servos were replaced when the trans was rebuilt, I never took the servo covers off.
      Now at 140,000 (70,000 later) I'm getting a MASSIVE delayed shift out of first gear with more than 1/2 throttle applied, so it looks like I'm going in again.
      This time it gets ZC servos and covers (if they aren't there already). Already have those parts, plus a MicroFelt filter and new pan gasket.

      From what I'm reading 75K is pretty much standard, and I had hoped these mods would have prolonged the service life, but it appears that torque and a gasket are to blame.

      Blue lok-tite on threads this time?
      Synthetic gasket vs. paper?
       
    9. Fredness

      Fredness Elite Explorer

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      150,000 miles, including a camping trailer tow to SanFran and back at 80+ (OD Off on hills, O/D On flats).

      To correct the above post - this was NOT a transmission issue, but a harmonic balancer failure that damaged the Crank Position Sensor - Replaced it (and added an ASP Power Pulley) and the issue was gone.

      At 140,000 I dropped the pan, replaced the filter and torqued the valve body to find that ALL the bolts were off almost a full turn - This could LITERALLY be why these transmissions are failing: Failure to retorque the valve body with filter changes (no filter change would be even worse).

      New Bosch Premium filter, Ford 5R55E Microfelt filter, MANY Qts of Ford MerconV ATF and all is well - shifts like new again.
       
      Last edited: December 18, 2017
    10. Fredness

      Fredness Elite Explorer

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      154,000 miles and I have a flashing O/D light w/ codes for "TCC stuck on" and similar issues as before.
      The one thing in common was the TCC Solenoid.
      Since the Solenoids were tested/used solenoids from CVB - I thought that the TCC may have failed. Your choices are to open the trans and TEST the solenoid, or open up the trans and REPLACE the solenoids. The later is just a LITTLE more difficult.
      Dropped the pan, pulled the filter, and swapped ALL the Solenoids with a kit from USA Transmission Parts.

      The first issue was the aftermarket stainless/ceramic coated Y-Pipe with High-Flow cats was rubbing on the PML Deep sump pan. There was no room to get a tool in there to drop the pan, and once all the bolts were finally out, the PML Deep sump pan was a total pain to remove - this was not an issue at 140,000 - before the Y-Pipe was swapped. Apparently aftermarket Y-Pipes are not deep-sump pan friendly - Just sayin'.

      Pan was immaculately clean - no buildup or shrapnel like the incident at 70K miles (7 years, 4 months and 11 days ago - ...so not counting), the magnets were also clean and without issues.

      I swapped the solenoids, installed a new 5R55E pan (bead blasted, threads for a drain plug were welded in from the INSIDE, ceramic coated in an Aluminum finish) and replaced the leaking OEM Cork gasket with an aftermarket rubber unit that retains the bolts making installation a breeze.

      While I was there, I checked the torque on the bolts - more than half were less than the specified torque...
      So, again, I'm thinking this goes back to torque... With time, and heat cycles, the bolts loosen and eventually the gasket shifts, tears or blows out.

      Time will tell - parts on order (Bonded separator plate), and researching redoing ALL the mods done to the CVB/SONNAX/Superior updates/upgrades. Pix to follow...

      See this thread.
       
      Last edited: January 27, 2018

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