New 2010 owner here, got a rear wiper question, and maybe a few others.. | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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New 2010 owner here, got a rear wiper question, and maybe a few others..

geosnooker2000

Well-Known Member
Joined
March 29, 2007
Messages
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City, State
Somerville TN
Year, Model & Trim Level
'10 Eddie Bauer V8 4x4
I don't have an owners manual so I am guessing on some things as to how they operate.
So, the rear wiper - I assume that ring on the turn signal is the rear wiper? I've put it in several positions, and nothing happens. If this means it's broken, what could be wrong with it? I would assume if it is a fuse, other things in that group would not operate as well, but I can't find anything else that does not operate.

Also, I don't know what pushing the auto 4x4, high 4x4, or low 4x4 does. Is it always in one of those? Is there suppose to be a light on one of those buttons indicated that it is in one of those modes? No lights are lit up on any of those three.

I will use this thread to ask more questions as I discover things I question.
 



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Yes - the inner ring is the rear wiper. It has a few presets where it wipes on various delays but it doesn't have an always on position. It also has a spring loaded position for the rear washer. I'm sure if you do a google search you can find a manual for the Ex.
As for the 4WD buttons, Auto is the default position - 4WD is off unless the truck loses traction and it can kick it in automatically. High locks in 4WD in the high range and a symbol will illuminate in your dash cluster. Low locks in 4WD with your transfer case in the low range and will also show on the cluster.
I can't remember right now if any of the buttons themselves have a light.
 






Hi you should be able to find a owners manual online. Either in a PDF file or the actual book. Agree with 07EddyB good info.
 






Any ideas on why the rear wipers AND the rear washer are not working? I am not an electrical genius, but with a little direction from someone, I might be able to diagnose the problem and fix it. Like I said, if it is a fuse, I have no idea which one it is, since I don't have an owners manual.

Would the rear washer not work BECAUSE the rear wiper is not actuating? Like, it won't engage until the rear wiper is in motion?
 






Also, with the whole 4x4 low, high, auto thing, if I were doing 60 down the interstate, and one were to push the 4x4 low button, what would happen?
 






1. Rear wiper may be seized on the pivot point. Every few years I need to take it apart, clean it wit sand paper, and grease it. Good for 3-4 years again. You need to disassemble the black plastic case inside the car behind the rear glass, and the entire mechanism down to the gear mechanism. Not sure why the rear washer is not working. I recall mine rear hose detached somewhere - maybe that's your problem. Check the little tubes coming out of the washer reservoir.
2. If you press 4x4 low doing 60, nothing will happen. 4x4 low can only be engaged when you are stopped, transmission is in N position, then press 4x4 low, and it will flash and the 4x4 low indicator will lit.
4x4 high can be engaged while driving but don't do it unless you are on very slipper surface, otherwise you can ruin your transfer case, especially while making turns .
 






1. Rear wiper may be seized on the pivot point. Every few years I need to take it apart, clean it wit sand paper, and grease it. Good for 3-4 years again. You need to disassemble the black plastic case inside the car behind the rear glass, and the entire mechanism down to the gear mechanism. Not sure why the rear washer is not working. I recall mine rear hose detached somewhere - maybe that's your problem. Check the little tubes coming out of the washer reservoir.
2. If you press 4x4 low doing 60, nothing will happen. 4x4 low can only be engaged when you are stopped, transmission is in N position, then press 4x4 low, and it will flash and the 4x4 low indicator will lit.
4x4 high can be engaged while driving but don't do it unless you are on very slipper surface, otherwise you can ruin your transfer case, especially while making turns .
Thank you sir!
 






I've replaced my rear wiper motor 2x in 130,000 miles on my 2010. I use it all the time, so that's not bad odds. If you're not mechanically experienced I'd find a reputable mechanic because if you crack the rear glass, that's REAL expensive.

I use 4x4 High deliberately in snow and slush that a few inches in depth. I could rely on the automatic feature of 4x4 auto, but I've had a better driving experience in Upstate NY and Ohio starting out in 4x4 High and using it full time. Some will say I'm wearing it out, but have no issues after 130K. Just slow down and put it in N at the most if not shifting from a full stop.

There are many reliability issues with the 10's, but if you stay on top of them and have a good mechanic or after market warranty, It's a terrific vehicle that can do so much. Enjoy!
 






The Auto mode is fine to help out when you aren't expecting slippery conditions. But when you are in the middle of a snow storm, and/or you know the roads are snow-covered, lock it into 4x4-Hi (AWD-Locked, for Mounty owners). This also applies to offroading on loose surfaces (loose dirt, sand, etc). Auto mode is very "clunky" and the center diff locks and unlocks continuously. This is actually working the unit harder than necessary. Lock the center diff, and it will send torque 50/50 front/rear full-time, for smooth control. But as stated earlier, once you get to dry or wet pavement, return to Auto mode to prevent driveline damage.
 






I've replaced my rear wiper motor 2x in 130,000 miles on my 2010. I use it all the time, so that's not bad odds. If you're not mechanically experienced I'd find a reputable mechanic because if you crack the rear glass, that's REAL expensive.

I have been wrenching on my explorers for 20 years, so I'm GTG with this repair. My issue is, I find it strange that the rear wiper AND the rear washer do not operate. That's why I came to this board. If it were one or the other, I would have proceeded as a normal "remove, rehab, replace." But the fact that both functions are actuated from the same control on the turn signal arm makes me question the real culprit.
It could be:
A fuse (and I don't have an owner's manual, so I don't know which fuse(s) to check)
A malfunctioning turn signal arm
2 coincidental problems with the washer pump/washer lines AND the frozen wiper shaft problem

I'll admit, my weakness is in identifying the cause of problems, but once I know what needs to be fixed/replaced, I can pretty much do anything that doesn't involve welding. If the weather is okay this weekend, I will get the wife out in the driveway and get her to actuate the rear washer while I listen to the washer fluid tank/pump. If that makes a sound, then I know I've got a broken washer line. If it doesn't make a sound, .... it's a fuse or a bad turn signal arm. Incidentally, the front wipers, washer, and turn signals all work - which leads me to eliminate the thought of the signal arm being the problem, but I am aware that portions of the arm can "go bad" while the remainder still operate correctly.
 













Okay, first off, thanks for the links. Very helpful!!!
Secondly, I quickly found the section dealing with the fuse box (under driver-side dash) and the relay box (under the hood), and read all of the fuse positions. Not one of them mentioned a windshield washer function. Am I to deduce from that that the washer and wiper functions both go through the same fuse and/or relay? That might make my problem simple...
Another thought... since the washer fluid pump works (because there is only one pump, and the front washer works), assuming there is no break in my rear washer line (another big assumption), whatever the mechanism is that directs the washer fluid to the rear must be actuated through the fuse that operates the rear wiper?
 






The following info is from a 2006 shop manual, 2010 models will likely be similar:

The rear wiper module at the back glass contains an internal rear washer relay, rear wiper relay, motor and electronics. Fuse F30 (25amp) in the Battery Junction Box (BJB) and fuse F12 (5amp) in the Smart Junction Box (SJB) supply power to the module.
The washer pump motor is 2 way and is located at the fluid reservoir in the engine compartment behind the right headlight. Tubing runs from front to rear, not sure where exactly inside the vehicle.
 






So... It was in fact 5amp fuse in position 12. What I don't understand is, this is what is listed as controlled by position 12 fuse:
Rear wiper motor RUN/ACC,
Trailer battery charge relay in
PDB, Radio
But the radio has worked fine this whole time.
I replaced the fuse and everything is copacetic.
 






For the same stupid reason they put the fuse box under the dash so you have to stand on your head to get to it!
 






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