not really powerful

[ahodges]

well at least let us know what you find out..

 

[shaggymane]

second what hodges said. Do let us know.

 

[garagedog369]

if i was you i'd start with the mass flow and work my way down. i don't think it's the mass flow,but check it and spay it with a good carb cleaner. i'd be check your codes and find a fuel pressure gauge.check the pressure at the manifold.if it's not right check whats at coming from the pump. if it's low check fuel filter. and recheck.if it's good then replace fuel pressure value. i've had it where it didn't keep enough pressure in the manifold. had all kinds of problems with power. i don't think it has any thing yo do with tire size

 

[deamon3]

I also filled my tank and will re test the mpg.

 

[rhauf]

gosh it shifts at 2,000 rpm. i think the problem is obvious guys, c' mon it's not the exhaust, fuel system, or even engine related (because if the engine's horsepower was hindered in some way, the transmission would still hold in gear via the kickdown cable until 4500rpm and shift then)

op: you're throttle cable and/or transmission shift-down cable is the problem. here's how you can verify this:

1. remove the black plastic intake tube from the throttle body (all you need to do this is a screwdriver to loosen the hose clamp, then slide it off)

2. have a friend get in the car and floor the gas pedal (obviously while the engine is NOT running) looking inside the throttle body, there is butterfly valve (flap which turns) it should turn a full 90 degrees when the throttle is floored, opening the airway completely. if it doesn't, then adjust you're throttle cable (this can be done using zip ties or a myriad of other things) an easy fix.

-OR-
if it DOES open all the way already, then there's a transmission shifting problem: so check the transmission shift-down cable, make sure it's working correctly. or, try manually shifting the transmission while accelerating, holding it in gear until 4000 rpm or so then up-shifting to the next gear, see how it feels if you do that, this could help find the problem.


if the engine had a loss in power, that would not effect the transmission shift points, keep that in mind. this means you're problem HAS to be either throttle cable linkages, or a shifting problem with the transmission (likely due to other cable adjustments/modulator)

 

[rhauf]

if i was you i'd start with the mass flow and work my way down. i don't think it's the mass flow,but check it and spay it with a good carb cleaner. i'd be check your codes and find a fuel pressure gauge.check the pressure at the manifold.if it's not right check whats at coming from the pump. if it's low check fuel filter. and recheck.if it's good then replace fuel pressure value. i've had it where it didn't keep enough pressure in the manifold. had all kinds of problems with power. i don't think it has any thing yo do with tire size

doesn't carb cleaner hurt maf meters?

 

[MrQ]

doesn't carb cleaner hurt maf meters?

Yes it does. It is too corrosive for the sensitive MAF filament. Use electronics cleaner or MAF cleaner. Make sure to use nothing with oil in it either.

 

[kifferarri]

gosh it shifts at 2,000 rpm. i think the problem is obvious guys, c' mon it's not the exhaust, fuel system, or even engine related (because if the engine's horsepower was hindered in some way, the transmission would still hold in gear via the kickdown cable until 4500rpm and shift then)

op: you're throttle cable and/or transmission shift-down cable is the problem. here's how you can verify this:

1. remove the black plastic intake tube from the throttle body (all you need to do this is a screwdriver to loosen the hose clamp, then slide it off)

2. have a friend get in the car and floor the gas pedal (obviously while the engine is NOT running) looking inside the throttle body, there is butterfly valve (flap which turns) it should turn a full 90 degrees when the throttle is floored, opening the airway completely. if it doesn't, then adjust you're throttle cable (this can be done using zip ties or a myriad of other things) an easy fix.

-OR-
if it DOES open all the way already, then there's a transmission shifting problem: so check the transmission shift-down cable, make sure it's working correctly. or, try manually shifting the transmission while accelerating, holding it in gear until 4000 rpm or so then up-shifting to the next gear, see how it feels if you do that, this could help find the problem.


if the engine had a loss in power, that would not effect the transmission shift points, keep that in mind. this means you're problem HAS to be either throttle cable linkages, or a shifting problem with the transmission (likely due to other cable adjustments/modulator)

except he mentions "chugging", he said while getting up to speed, but also once when he came out from somewhere, that it was doing it at idle. almost says misfire to me... but again, its hard to diagnose things over the internet

 

[ahodges]

all good points rhauf, but if it was the transmission shift cable then if the engine was running correctly the torque converter should let the engine run over 2000 rpms no matter what. Right?

The chugging and lack of power are both symptoms of a seriously plugged cat. or misfire do to something else like a malfunctioning MAF sensor. My suggestion to test that theory is to unplug the mass air flow sensor temporarily and see if the problem is an better.

 

[rhauf]

all good points rhauf, but if it was the transmission shift cable then if the engine was running correctly the torque converter should let the engine run over 2000 rpms no matter what. Right?

The chugging and lack of power are both symptoms of a seriously plugged cat. or misfire do to something else like a malfunctioning MAF sensor. My suggestion to test that theory is to unplug the mass air flow sensor temporarily and see if the problem is an better.

Probably, but if it was the THROTTLE cable, then no.

and no i realize i have no explanation for the chugging, except that it could likely be a different problem

btw, for reference, i did a 0-60 today in my bone-stock '93 explorer 4x4. now this test wasn't completely accurate because i had a whole TTB axle and radius arms, and part of a frame in the back of it weighting things down.. but it was just under 15 seconds. probably would have been 14.5 if it was empty! hehh.

 

[deamon3]

Now when I start/rev my card there is a deep low rumble coming from the engine. Yikes! And not a good one either.

The only mechanic I can take it to (that isn't going to lie to me) is 40minutes away from here , and it seems my car is getting worse so have to arrange a time soon to take it in. I'm getting what I think is about 10mpg now.

 

[shaggymane]

except he mentions "chugging", he said while getting up to speed, but also once when he came out from somewhere, that it was doing it at idle. almost says misfire to me... but again, its hard to diagnose things over the internet

he said he was in a parking lot. Made me think of an exhaust leak close to the exhaust manifold. As has been said, hard to diagnose over the internet.

I'm waiting for the diagnosis from the mechanic.

 

[ahodges]

Yeah, you better get it looked at, especially if its a plugged cat. When you have a plugged catayletic convertor it can do serious damage to your engine and adventully burn it up if it goes unfixed long enough!

 

[rhauf]

Yeah, you better get it looked at, especially if its a plugged cat. When you have a plugged catayletic convertor it can do serious damage to your engine and adventully burn it up if it goes unfixed long enough!

x2. seen it first hand. (burnt valves)

 

[kanarmAN]

what part of wisc do you live ? Im not a master mech but can look at it and help trouble shoot it.

 

[kifferarri]

anyone heard from deamon3 about what the problem was?

 

[deamon3]

Hi all , I took my car to a mechanic finally and found out what the problem was!

Supposedly he found out that my car's engine is in fact to small. He says it's suppose to be bigger but somebody must have installed a new engine in it at some point and installed this much smaller one. He says it should be a v8 and not the v6 that it has.

They have a v8 that they can install that came out of a van (econoline I think he said?) and they're not charging that much for it so I think I'll go for it. It's neat to learn a bit of history on my ex turns outs somebody just put a v6 in it. lol! Although makes me question the millage?

 

[marragtop]

I don't believe they made a V8 in 94. I suggest cross referencing your vin to see what came in the truck. Also, look up the vin of your engine to see what it is. I personally think you are being BS'd.

 

[Maniak]

Hi all , I took my car to a mechanic finally and found out what the problem was!

Supposedly he found out that my car's engine is in fact to small. He says it's suppose to be bigger but somebody must have installed a new engine in it at some point and installed this much smaller one. He says it should be a v8 and not the v6 that it has.

They have a v8 that they can install that came out of a van (econoline I think he said?) and they're not charging that much for it so I think I'll go for it. It's neat to learn a bit of history on my ex turns outs somebody just put a v6 in it. lol! Although makes me question the millage?

Umm.. If he says the 4.0 OHV motor isn't what the factory put in, RUN AWAY.

The 4.0 is indeed the ONLY motor that was available in the 94 for explorer.

If he said that factory should have been putting in bigger motors than the 4.0 OHV then that is "his opinion". The 4.0 will move the X just fine as a truck. Its a torquey motor and is not a car. It won't handle like a car or accelerate like a car. If you hav 3.27 gears then it will be a gutless wonder but will get decent mileage on the flat freeway. If you have 3.73 gears it will accelerate better but will get worse mileage at the higher speeds.

~Mark

 

[Slowlyvverot]

Yep, ditto on that. 4.0 v6 is the only factory engine for 91-94.