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notajeep_wv D44 hp SAS

Discussion in 'Offroad Projects' started by Four0Sport, January 10, 2012.

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    1. BKennedy

      BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      How did you straighten out the brake backing plates so the brakes function properly without turning the tube back to its original position?
       
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    3. Kirby N.

      Kirby N. Well-Known Member

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      I don't think he did anything about crooked brakes. Would that affect anything?

      I think Rick had his tubes realigned similar to what james did except they used a jack instead of a long pry bar and muscles?

      I guess it will work a while, but it makes me wonder how straight the housing is now that the tubes have moved. Which makes me wonder if seals and bearings will last.
       
    4. BKennedy

      BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      The brakes are aligned to maximize their effectiveness. If they are not even side to side, it would bother me so I would have to fix it. I don't know if it causes any felt difference in the pedal or performance, but it would cause one side to have to work harder.
       
    5. gmanpaint

      gmanpaint Torsion Bar Free Elite Explorer

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      When you welded the tubes to the housing, was anything special needed to be done, or was it pretty straight forward, with simply laying a bead around it?

      I'm thinking of having mine done while it is at a shop in a couple weeks.
       
    6. Kirby N.

      Kirby N. Well-Known Member

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      A little preheat and post heat to the cast center section will help the tubes and the center pig cool at closer to the same rate. Before I had a torch I would stick weld it once all the way around. Then my weld would crack so while it was still hot I would go over it again and it wouldn't crack the second time.
       
    7. gmanpaint

      gmanpaint Torsion Bar Free Elite Explorer

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      Thanks. I had a feeling there was some trick to welding to the cast. :thumbsup:
       
    8. james t

      james t moderation Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      The tube spinning in the center chunk wont really change the alignment. 1- its a very tight press fit, 2- there's quite a bit of engagement... the tube is "all up in there" so far that it physically cant move... uh... radially? wobbly? (hard to describe, yall know i dont english two good)

      There is a chance of pulling the housing due to warping from the welds. I preheated with a torch, and did 1" welds- skipping sides, taking plenty of time- until it was all done then covered with a welding blanket. FWIW my buddy still drives that CJ, and it still has that crappy AMC20 rear end with no problems. :D
       
    9. Kirby N.

      Kirby N. Well-Known Member

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      I weld it all at once. That way if it pulls it pulls it all at once every way. It's always better to be safe then sorry though. I welded on a truss to the top of a Dana 35 once and made it smile. That was a huge waste of a lot of work. Here is my latest welding on an axle housing. Sleeved and trussed jk 44.

      [​IMG]

      Preheat and post heat on the center pig and knuckles. It's straight and aligned perfect.. Now it will survive a pothole.

      I know how much the tubing slides into the center, but if it is torqued enough to spin in spite of the rose welds/ plugs then I wouldn't trust that it stayed straight on that process. Sometimes bent housings will just leak a little. Sometimes they will eat lockers because the shafts are in crooked. I am sure there is plenty out there running around undetected. His trail rig will probably be fine.
       
    10. Four0Sport

      Four0Sport Elite Explorer

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      Sorry I haven't been on here for a while..

      I have noticed zero side effects as far as braking goes, if the tube had spun the opposite direction and the caliper was had moved down I would be more concerned.

      We welded inch sections at a time and also re welded the front and rear plug welds. So far zero issues.

      I kept getting tired of tripping over the duff boxes in my garage so I decided to get the truck up on stands and removed the coils, set the axle at ride height and removed the driver side radius arm leaving the passenger side attached to keep the axle in place. Mounted the front and rear wedge caps, put the arm on andddd thats where I got confused.. so figure I would get on here and look around, the rod end sits inside the frame rail, I can pull it out under the frame rail to work with the bracket but then I am putting strain on the bushings. Anyone run into or seen this before?

      186.jpg
       
      Last edited by a moderator: January 28, 2018
    11. Kirby N.

      Kirby N. Well-Known Member

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      Yeah dude. Mine did the same. There is enough range of movement in the bushings that it works just fine. Brian's too. I hit him up just like you because I was concerned.
       
    12. BKennedy

      BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      What he said. Loosen the caps, then pull the arms out until they fit in the brackets. Retighten caps. Over two years now and no issues.
       
    13. Four0Sport

      Four0Sport Elite Explorer

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      Thanks for easing my worry guys! What degree wedge bushings are you guys running with these arms and 5.5" coils?
       
    14. Kirby N.

      Kirby N. Well-Known Member

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      I think I am running 2* but I moved my axle wedges 2* too. I would say depending on ride height 2*-4* will be good.
       
    15. BKennedy

      BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      According to Duff, their arms have 4* of caster. They recommend 4* C bushings with a 3.5" lift and 7* for 5.5". I went with their recommendations and ended up with 9*. It drove great on the highway, but did not turn as tight as hoped and I had a little binding with the front drive shaft at full extension. To correct both, I went with 4* bushings. It still drives well on the highway, just a little more steering sensitive. Turning radius is much tighter and the drive line issue was corrected.

      It's right at the lower recommend caster, think it's 6-9*. If anyone made a 5* bushing, it would have been perfect for my set up. Not sure how much lift I ended up with, but it's around 6".

      Those Duff arms are great; very sturdy, good length, good customer support, less binding with the two-part arms, and they act as anti-sway bars at highway speeds.

      I ended up welding the frame brackets on because of the double walled frame, but Kirby just tightened the bolts up until the thin inner frame bent flat against the outer frame. Both seem to work.
       
      Last edited: April 25, 2016
    16. gmanpaint

      gmanpaint Torsion Bar Free Elite Explorer

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      I have a set of perfectly good used 7° if you want em. just pay shipping, and there yours.
       
    17. Four0Sport

      Four0Sport Elite Explorer

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      I ordered a set of 7s last night lol

      I currently run 4* and am happy with the handling so I may stick with them for now.

      As always, thanks for all the help guys!!
       
    18. BKennedy

      BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Ditto!
       
    19. Four0Sport

      Four0Sport Elite Explorer

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      Spent the past 2 weekends and a few school nights going through the front end and installing the Duff arms.. pics for those who like looking at mud covered parts

      187.jpg 188.jpg 189.jpg 190.jpg 191.jpg 192.jpg
       
      Last edited by a moderator: January 28, 2018
    20. gmanpaint

      gmanpaint Torsion Bar Free Elite Explorer

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      Nice work :thumbsup:

      I bet your itching to test it out. :D
       
    21. RockRanger

      RockRanger Elite Ranger

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      Wow. I didn't realize how long the Duff arms were.
       
    22. BKennedy

      BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      I think they are 43" long.

      This might sound silly, but my Duff RA's contacted the rearward nut/stud that mounts the fuel filter shield to the frame. I did not want to limit my compression even that little bit, so I ended up grinding off that stud flush with the bottom of the frame so it acts as an alignment post. Front nut holds the shield and is on the angled part of the frame so it doesn't make contact. Also have slightly contacted the bolt heads for my trans cross member. Hex button head bolts took care of that.

      Good job on getting the Wild Horses spindle bushings instead of new needle bearings, but I would have cleaned all the dirt out of the hubs before I installed.:D I have had those for a few years now, done a few deeper than I like water crossings on the Mojave Trail (don't like submerging axles), and had no issues, and no contamination of the grease.
       
    23. Four0Sport

      Four0Sport Elite Explorer

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      they went back on a lot cleaner than they were in that pic.. lol

      Drove it today for the first time, couldn't believe how much better the ride is and how stable it is in turns and dips. Definitely one of the best improvements I've made in a while.

      Going to stretch its legs, err arms, this weekend.
       
    24. BKennedy

      BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      A milestone day to be remembered. Congratulations.

      I was pleasantly surprised how much more stable and predictable mine is after the SAS.
       
    25. Four0Sport

      Four0Sport Elite Explorer

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      When 10pm on a Friday night seems like a good time to max out your suspension..

      193.jpg 194.jpg 195.jpg

      And of course none of us had a tape measure or I could have gotten shock, bump, limit strap lengths figured out. I do need to re route the brake line to the rear facing side of the coil bucket.

      Next on the agenda is a steering gear tear down and tap.
       
      Last edited by a moderator: January 28, 2018
    26. yostyexplorer94

      yostyexplorer94 1st Gen Mod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Looks good. You will have to post pictures tapping that box.
       

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