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Notes on pulling EEC-IV codes

Discussion in 'EEC IV' started by MrShorty, December 2, 2005.

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    1. Harpua216

      Harpua216 Active Member

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      Mr Shorty,

      amazing post. to think i was trying to figure out if the MAF is messed up or i fouled my plugs and am having a misfire without doing it the old fashioned way. Thank you.

      I guess mainly i have a follow up situation I would enjoy your input on:

      Firstly its a 1st Gen 93EB with 85K original miles on it. I got it with 57K almost 3 years ago, but before me it sat and sat, then was driven again until my buddys father passed in 2008, then it sat again until i bought it. rust, isnt even the word for this baby, but she runs like a top most times. sorry to digress.

      So, the CEL has been coming on an off for a bit now, and I believe i have many codes stored within the brain of the EEC. So my question is this: after doing some minor work to her (plugs, wires, total brake lines, fuel lines done by a pro (mostly) and myself (the easy stuff)), would it be a good idea to try and regenerate the codes after clearing or resetting the last batch or read these current codes??

      i know i know... do both, gain practice...lol which i will end up doing,, but my fear is that there are a lot of codes that are now cleared by the work we have done, and perhaps a few more that we created by shoring up other parts of the truck.

      thanks for any thoughts you may have on this and for all the work you put in.
      this site is great
       
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    3. MrShorty

      MrShorty Explorer Addict

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      A couple of thoughts:

      1) It is certainly possible to create extraneous CM codes especially if, while doing that work, you started the engine while something was unplugged. You won't know what CM codes are still meaningful until you clear CM and take it for a test drive.

      2) KOEO and KOER codes are not stored in any way. They are "hard faults" that are detected during the test. If you run the tests and get any codes for these portions, you know that there is something related to that code that is still wrong without going through the clear memory and test drive sequence.
       
    4. Harpua216

      Harpua216 Active Member

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      great, so that saves me a step. I did happen to turn it over and have not turned it on yet since, after reading not to until you are ready for KOEO, then KOER.

      Thanks again and hope you are having a great day! i will be sure and share the codes and anything peculiar that happens in case someone else is having some similar problems.
       
    5. Harpua216

      Harpua216 Active Member

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      could only complete the KOEO test which produced codes 181 186 189 which i believe is a too rich gas supply that either fouled my plugs or gunked up my fuel pump. the KOER test could not complete as it would stall the engine i believe because it tries to begin tests on the fuel pump or something fuel related. best idea i have would be to replace or clean the plugs, try and test drive and see if i can get other codes.

      if anyone has any ideas or a link to another post that may help, it would be much appreciated...thanks
       
    6. MrShorty

      MrShorty Explorer Addict

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      My code list indicates that each of those codes is from the O2 sensor having indicated a lean condition. If the engine is actually running rich, then that suggests something wrong with the O2 sensor/circuit. If it really is running lean, then something else is throwing off the mixture.
       
    7. Edward K

      Edward K New Member

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      Thank you for this MrShorty! Much better explained than Haynes ever did!
       
    8. KJL

      KJL Active Member

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      hey guys,

      picked up a 1992 for trade a week or so ago and i noticed the check engine light is not coming on, couldnt pull codes (i got the fp to prime, and a few relays to click.) but the comp was not communicating with my code reader. I tried the paper clip trick, no change.

      did some research and i just ran a jumper from the +batt to the number 4 pin on the self-test plug (pink/green and tan/red) and the light switched on, but is still not communtiating...

      any ideas? i cant get a hold of a good wiring book for the explorer (i had one for my 88 full size bronco but i seem to have misplaced it.

      thanks!

      edit: the motor runs really well, i just want to make sure everything is working well for smog and what-not
       
      Last edited: August 11, 2012
    9. MrShorty

      MrShorty Explorer Addict

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      Power and ground to the PCM?
       
    10. KJL

      KJL Active Member

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      that's what i was thinking but i dont have a diagram of the PCM plug, i work for ford but the troubleshooting and wiring book is on back order and that could take years literally. can someone shoot me some wiring diags on pdf?
       
    11. BrooklynBay

      BrooklynBay Moderator & long time member. Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Check the keep alive memory wiring & ground wire near the battery. This once happened to my 88 van. The van wouldn't start. There was no check engine light, and the fuel pump wouldn't prime. It's also a good idea to check the PCM relay. The fuel pump relay can't work if the PCM relay doesn't work (unless it's grounded through the self test such as what you've already done). It sounds like you provided power through the seft test connector as well.
       
    12. MrShorty

      MrShorty Explorer Addict

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      I've found that the wiring diagrams in Chiltons are adequate for PCM power and ground circuits. Autozone has electronic versions of the Chilton's DIY manuals on their website (if you are willing to register with them).

      I've also found that most public libraries have good manuals you can pull wiring diagrams from.
       
    13. KJL

      KJL Active Member

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      ok cool. ive got power to the fuel pump and the explorer runs really well, just not able to pull codes. in CA they check the light to make sure its working (guess you cant have a check engine light on when you go smog or it will fail iirc) and i dont know how they get the light to flash. if i knew that they just put power to that 4th pin to check id be in good shape but i dont want to waste ~$50 when i go smog it

      I have a eec relay from my FS bko and i swapped with both the eec and the fp and nothing changes
       
    14. MrShorty

      MrShorty Explorer Addict

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      The engine would not run if the PMC didn't have power. If the only problem seems to be that you can't pull codes, I'd check your instructions and make sure you are doing it right and making good connections with your jumper wires. You might also check the wiring between the self-test connector and the PCM to make sure there are no bad connections.
       
    15. KJL

      KJL Active Member

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      made some photo copies of the eec wiring and the pcm plug.

      pin #4 has pink/light green AND tan/red leads into it connected at one spade connector inside the self test connector...

      pk/lg is circuit 658 (to pin #17 at the pcm)
      t/r is circuit 201 (to instrument cluster, "check engine light")

      from hooking power directly from the battery to plug #4 on self test connector, the check engine light comes on with or without the ignition on, so i know circuit 201 (to check engine light) is good. i just need to get to the #17 pin on the pcm plug to test continuity from the self test plug to pin #17 on the pcm.

      if that circuit is good, check resistance, of that is close to zero then i need to inspect the actual connection into the pcm to see if that is the problem.

      dont really have time tonight but i will dig into it tomorrow when i get off work.

      sucks cause the same wiring book we use at work are on back order and like i said, could take a very very long time to get in... im trying to convince our parts guy that the 4 inch thick body/frame/suspension/drivetrain book we have at the shop need to be replaced... its been in "the attic" for god knows how long and the cover is missing... he said the shop cant get them anymore from ford.. i told him hes just being lazy lol.
       
    16. KJL

      KJL Active Member

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      Everything seems on the up n up with that circuit. So I'm kinda confused as to what the problem is now.

      Circuit 658 has continuity the system just isn't pulling up the codes. Checked the volts at pin four on the self test connector and it's pulling about 0.54v. Iirc that's not even ref volts, shouldn't it be around 5v?
       
    17. MrShorty

      MrShorty Explorer Addict

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      I'm sorry, but my diagrams (mostly from the internet) don't identify which pin is #4 at the self-test connector. I'm not even sure if Vref is represented at the self-test connector.
       
    18. KJL

      KJL Active Member

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      I'll try and get my scanner to work and post the photo copies up here. But until then, if you are looking at the front side of the self test plug they are numbered left to right and top to bottom.

      (The top two pins)
      left pin is #1 the right is #2
      (bottom four pins)
      Far left is three, center left is four, center right is five (not used), far right is six

      If that makes sence
       
    19. KJL

      KJL Active Member

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    20. KJL

      KJL Active Member

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      Think I've got a handle on the problem I'm having. Seems that the #4 pin is not getting sufficient power, I threw a test light on that pin with the gator clip on the Pos battery side and there was a dim glow until I turned the key then I started getting cel flashes like normal so I hooked my code reader up per the manual while still having the test light hooked up and I got 111 which is pass on all koeo tests. I'm sure I've cleared any codes but now but at least I can do the koer tests tomorrow. I'll post my findings then

      Edit: just pulled codes again, and everything checked out ok, but I had to apply power directly from the battery to the number four pin so im still having problems with the light not coming on when the ignition is turn to the ON position.
       
      Last edited: August 19, 2012
    21. KJL

      KJL Active Member

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      did some diag... checked the voltage at pin 17 on the pcm (to CEL tan/red) and its only showing .065v when the key is switched on. then slowly drops to about .010v

      ohms is 00.3 from pin 17 to the gauges (tan/red)

      i have no idea where to go from here and i cant get it smogged without the light working correctly... could really use some help guys.
       
    22. MrShorty

      MrShorty Explorer Addict

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      According to your scans, pin 17 is STO. I don't see the CEL/MIL on either of our wiring diagrams, but, if it is like other elements in the engine management system, it will be ground side switched at pin 17 (as the CEL seems to be tied into the STO circut). So, assuming your are measuring voltage at pin 17 relative to ground, and because the CEL should be on KOEO, no voltage at pin 17 seems normal (unless my "ground side switch" assumption is wrong).

      At this point I think we need a wiring diagram that shows how the CEL is supposed to be wired in. If it is, as I suspect, ground side switched, then we need to verify power to the CEL.
       
    23. KJL

      KJL Active Member

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      From what the tech at my work say, the PCM does not supply power to anything. It only grounds circuits. Which means that it should be getting power from somewhere within the circuit but I cant see where the circuit would be getting power from.

      The diagrams I have are from the ford dealer I work for, I'm a detailer there but I finally got promoted into the the apprenticeship :bounce::bounce::bounce::bounce: program to become a tech.
       
      Last edited: August 25, 2012
    24. MrShorty

      MrShorty Explorer Addict

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      He's mostly correct.

      If you look at your EEC wiring 3 diagram, it shows a leg coming off of the self-test connector going to the instrument cluster (I suspect the MIL specifically) and then refers to p 62-2. That's where power will be getting to pin 17, through the MIL. If it is like the other engine management circuits, I expect the MIL gets power from the EEC relay like the rest of the engine management system. Since the PCM appears to have power, I suspect that means a break between the EEC relay and the MIL.
       
    25. Tbars4

      Tbars4 Moderator Emeritus Elite In Memoriam

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      ..I had a similar "No CEL" on my 91 and it turned out the EEC relay under the relay box in engine bay was not not making good contact as it had some corrosion on the prongs..The "No CEL" was the only problem I had related to that relay and when I fixed it I was able to paperclip read my error code..:dunno:

      ..Pulled the relay, cleaned up the prongs and all was well..I did however change that relay asap fearing it may have gotten weak and didn't need any future problems..
       
    26. KJL

      KJL Active Member

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      MIL? Not sure what that means.


      I cleaned up all the prongs on the relays so well they have a good reflection. Still no change.
       

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