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OEM Or Aftermarket Brakes?

Discussion in 'Stock 2011 - 2018 Ford Explorer Discussion' started by CC Rider, April 20, 2016.


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    1. Napalm

      Napalm Active Member

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      I bought a new floor jack the other day - it's an arcam model from northern tool. Anywho - tops out around 23 + inches and I don't have to get it to full stroke to change the tires. so probably 19 ish gets it done - but more is nice obviously. I plan on getting one of those risers for it anyway
       
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    3. njstang87

      njstang87 New Member

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      2014 Limited Front and Rear Brake Pads

      I was curious what brake pads everyone is replacing the factory ones with? I'm not opposed to replacing with OE parts as these have lasted 100k miles.

      When I look at rockauto.com there are some for Explorers with painted calipers. Our calipers are silver in color. I'm not sure if they are painted or not.

      We live in a hilly and curvy area and will be doing occasional towing. Any help would be appreciated. Thank You
       
      Last edited by a moderator: May 24, 2017
    4. peterk9

      peterk9 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Welcome to the Forum.:wave:
      If you no longer have the 1999 Explorer please update your profile or add the 2014 Limited to a signature if still do have it. Thanks.
      Your thread was moved to this one.

      Peter
       
    5. Eject

      Eject New Member

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      My preference is Brembo OEM replacement rotors with Hawk or TRW pads. Brembo's OEM replacement rotors are not drilled or slotted but if you're experiencing warped Motorcraft rotors now, I'd shy away from buying another set. I experienced something similar with my old WRX, the factory rotors warped and I refused to buy another set because they'd likely do the same, so I looked to Brembo OE replacement rotors and saved a few bucks over Subaru original parts.
       
    6. JETZ

      JETZ Active Member

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      I have absolutely no brake dust issues with my 12 Limited, so going ceramic, the thought never came up. On the other hand my Bimmer was a nightmare. Changed out the pads to ceramic in the first three months from new, I like my wheels clean!
       
    7. solberg

      solberg New Member

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      Hi,

      I have a 15 Explorer Sport with ~37k miles on it. Right now I have some vibrations when braking hard when going 80+ mph. Do you have experienced the same?

      And when did you replace your brakes (disk, rotors or both).

      Right now I'm looking for EBC replacement parts to get better performance on the autobahn.

      Please share your thoughts.
       
    8. bigdude2468

      bigdude2468 Active Member

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      I replaced the front pads on our 2014 last fall (38,000 miles) and this past Thursday I replaced the rear pads and rotors at about 46,000 miles. In both cases the pads were in decent shape. The front were at about 40%, backs were fine. The reason I replaced the fronts last fall is we ski all winter in Utah and the road we take almost every day is steep, very steep so the brakes get a work out. Also I am not in a position to do much in the way of vehicle maintenance work where we live in Salt Lake City.

      I am sold on Wagner OEx brake pads. They generate less heat, have shorter stopping distances, reduced rotor wear, less dust and will last longer. When we got home to WI last month I noticed the drivers side rear rotor was showing some uneven wear. I replaced the pads and rotors this past Thursday with Wagner rotors (and OEx pads) that have a black coating on all the non pad contact areas to prevent / reduce corrosion. The backside of the original rotors both had a great deal of rust on the area that contacts the hub. This corrosion can result in warping of the rotor so I thought why not go with a coated rotor to prevent that rather than having the old rotors turned. I have the towing package so the brakes are "heavy duty", the rear rotors are 345mm OD. I would measure to verify which ones you have before picking up the new ones. I bought both items from Rock Auto at a significant discount to what AA, O'Reillys or NAPA sells them for.

      The rotors have a small locating screw that holds the rotors on the hub prior to reinstalling the wheels. One was frozen tight, had to drill it out. Before you try to take those out use plenty of penetrating oil especially on the back side of the rotor where the screw protrudes. Good luck
       
    9. Mishtar

      Mishtar Active Member

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      Does anyone have a good recommendation for new brake pads and rotors? The new pad i bought from Pep boys last year lasted less then a year and my original ones had last 5 years....
       
    10. Napalm

      Napalm Active Member

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      On other cars for daily driving use I've been pretty happy with Wagner Thermo-quiet pads.

      O'reilly often has them. They are a ceramic based compound and they work very well - even in stop and go and panic stop environment.

      Rotors - well I'd go with anything that's not labeled as "certric" brand. and I'd check rock auto for some.

      few things I would do based on the age of your car.

      1) flush the old brake fluid - you can pay a shop to do this, works fine - or you can do this yourself. take a bit of effort if you don't have the handy tools (vac to pull out of the brake reservoir, and pressure system to push new fluid to the brakes)

      2) be sure to pull the pins out of the calipers, clean then, and then apply new brake lube. Make sure you use something for brakes, or you use a high silicone content, high temp rated grease. reinsert pins - make sure the calipers move free when assembled.

      On top of doing the normal brake job. OH while using the brake grease - if you've never done it before dap a bit on the back of each pad - and then light coat on the "ears" of each pad. helps them ride smooth in the caliper grooves and reduced noise.
       
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    11. buck91

      buck91 New Member

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      Going to be doing a brake job on our 2014 ExSport soon. Very happy with all aspects of the OE brakes but hesitant to pay Motorcraft prices. Powerstop "auto specialty" KOE6375 package seems to be very attractively priced but do you just end up getting what you pay for? Any thoughts for OE equivalent brakes? Would be looking for OE level performance with long life and low noise/dust.
       
    12. peterk9

      peterk9 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Your thread has been merged with this existing one found using the handy 'Search' feature (upper right).
       
    13. 613GT500

      613GT500 Well-Known Member

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      Based on my current driving habits and maintenance; I should be able to get 5yrs or more out of the original pads and rotors.
      If that is the case with the EX, I don't have problems buying OEM and not worrying about pre-mature wear etc...
       
    14. Napalm

      Napalm Active Member

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      I haven't looked but check rock auto and see what rotors do come up and the cost. IIRC Motorcraft rotors weren't that expensive but it's been a while since I looked. TO that end - Any other branded rotor is pretty decent. wagner, federal mogul, raybestos - one of those is probably the OE maker anyway.
       
    15. 08EddieCA

      08EddieCA Elite Explorer

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      I prefer the Brembo rotors and OEM Pads. No problems and excellent longevity.
       
    16. stoev

      stoev Member

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      Hi everyone, now after 72k miles I think I should Exchange my brake pads, do you think the Rotors are also necessary?
      when I brake they are squeaking... and also what I noticed is when I turn right it Sound from my left wheel like the bearing is broken, do somebody knows this issue?

      CHeers
      Georgi
       
    17. bigdude2468

      bigdude2468 Active Member

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      If the rotors are indecent shape I would have them turned. The noise you describe sounds like a wheel bearing. Turning right resulting in a noise on the left is classic.
       
    18. Napalm

      Napalm Active Member

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      before you jump to the wheel bearing - since you say your brakes are squeaking now on application. often that noise is the result of the pad squeaker on the rotor - when you change your pads you'll see there is a sheet metal tab that protrudes out to about 1/3 the pad thickness or so - and it's there to make noise when you reach the near end life of the pad.

      It is thus also possible that upon turning to sling that pad against the rotor - also causing it to make noise even when the brakes aren't applied.

      Not saying it can't be a bad wheel bearing just that they are often not the cause of issues and most modern wheel bearing last into 150K miles easily. Provided the car hasn't been damaged. (driven straight in to curbing to break a tire, towing at weight limits - off roading/jumping etc)

      On the rotors - you will probably find that your rotors are at minimum thickness so they might not be able to be turned. Might I say. This is becoming common place on cars today and honestly not such a bad thing as often rotors are reasonable priced. Unless you own an odd car like mine and they are 140+ for good ones regardless.

      So that end I would buy the new ones anyway - so they are on hand if you need them - and then measure your old ones to see if they could be turned. Worst case you have to use the new ones - best case you can return them.
       

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