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Oil Change interval

Hi, I recently just bought a brand new 2016 Ford Explorer Sport with the maintenance plan. I currently reached 2,000 Miles and I called back the dealership asking when is my first oil change. The salesman said 3,500 mile interval while the finance director called the service guys and said 7,500 miles. I then added to them, there isn't an engine break in period? They said no. From what I was told, a turbo charged engine needs to have it's oil changed every 3,500 to 4,500 miles with full synthetic motor oil or you risk the chance of blowing up your turbo. I know some Mini Cooper S owners that change their oil every 3,000 miles so the turbo doesn't go out. I was also told that I should have done an initial oil change at 1,000 Miles and now I am over the limit and should change it ASAP. I feel 1,000 miles is a little bit too early, I don't drive the crap out of my explorer, I just drive it like a normal person would so no racing or WOT. Technically, I would just change the oil myself but since I bought the extended service protection plan, they offered to do preventative maintenance for me for 8 years or 100,000 miles. I'm just wondering if they follow the service intervals on the book or do they just change it when I bring it in?
Welcome to the Forum.:wave:
Using the handy 'Search' feature I found this thread and merged yours with it. As you can see, everyone has their own opinion of when to change and which oil to use.
There is no requirement laid out in the Manual to do an early change. Some do some don't. Some follow the IOLM (Intelligent Oil Life Monitor) others don't. I don't drive a lot and make frequent short trips. I change oil every 6 months which works out to roughly 1500 miles and the dealer uses regular oil. FYI, my vehicle is leased and has the 3.5L Ecoboost. There are several more threads on oil changes which you can find using the 'Search' function (upper right corner).
The bottom line is that you will never get a consensus of opinion on this topic. My recommendation is read the Manual cover to cover and then read it again. There is a lot of info in there.

Peter
 



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I dont have the knowledge in this area so I asked the actual Ford Engineers who worked on this 3.5 V6 about the Ford Oil Life Monitoring System (OLMS). It's a very sophisticated algorithm that takes into account many things that the computers record about driving habits, engine temp, run time, RPM, mileage, etc etc. Apparently every driver will have a slightly different recommended oil change time.

The advice I got was. "changing oil at a set 3000 or 5000 miles is old school, old thinking, legacy technology, today you cant out think the OLMS. Wait for the light, then change your oil"
Only issue/question I have about that is synthetics verses Dino. I think my Amsoil Signature will run longer than the Ford Dino oil. I don't think,the OLMS knows the difference between synthetics and Dino. Am I missing something?
 






Only issue/question I have about that is synthetics verses Dino. I think my Amsoil Signature will run longer than the Ford Dino oil. I don't think,the OLMS knows the difference between synthetics and Dino. Am I missing something?
You are correct. The IOLM does not know what kind of oil the engine is using.

Peter
 






From what I was told
Old wives tales. Seems like you've been told a lot of them.

Modern turbocharged engines can easily go 10,000 miles on a full synthetic. Follow the book, and the OLM. There is no break-in oil, early first change, or short intervals anymore.
 












Only issue/question I have about that is synthetics verses Dino. I think my Amsoil Signature will run longer than the Ford Dino oil. I don't think,the OLMS knows the difference between synthetics and Dino. Am I missing something?

first off to correct a minor misconception. the ford spec oil for these cars isn't straight dino oil as people say. it is a listed synthetic blend - mostly means refined normal base stock with special additives that are fully synthesized. So it's going to respond to age more like a full synthetic polymer than the cheap refined base oil.

second - you are correct the OLM doesn't know what oil is in the car. It is however tuned to the spec oil as listed. IE if you use something that is significantly better than the ford spec oil - then in theory it will indeed last longer.

but and it's a doozy

That is an equal crap shoot as you can't really guarantee that your filter isn't clogged in 4K miles of your 8+ K mile interval. This is my grief with the system and I've even lead a team that integrated it on a platform (not for ford). My pet peeve with the way this is used on most vehicles is they also spec in a by-pass valved filter. IE if /when the filter gets clogged enough - dirty enough the pressure difference will be enough to push a spring/bend a flap - and by-pass the filter media. This is why I'm a big fan of running the OLM - but about mid way though just to do say trade the filter and re-top off. Yes the bypass will keep the oil pressure up and flow moving, but it also tricks you to thinking your filter has worked the entire interval.

Also in this particular case the ford spec oil is spec'd out for things beside engine wear - it's also to prevent things like PCV fume deposits on valves (DI engines), and heat transfer for cooling, etc. Now normally I would say that most other full syn oils would be as good or better - but if they haven't gone through the same test requirements I wouldn't say the meet the full spec need for the car. IE it might be great for wear- but bad on deposits or in many cases - bad on the catalytic converters or something else. So I could add if it doesn't say on the label it meets the ford spec as in the manual listing for your car - do not use it.
 






The oil specs are different in Canada. The Manual states for the 3.5L Ecoboost;
Recommended Motor oil (Canada):
Motorcraft® SAE 5W-30 Super Premium Motor Oil
CXO-5W30-LSP12
OR
Optional Motor oil (Canada):
Motorcraft® SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil
CXO-5W30-LFS12

I'm quite sure that the Super Premium Motor Oil is the regular 'Dino' oil since every other spec in the table shows either semi synthetic or full synthetic.
The dealer uses the regular oil in mine.

Peter
 






so go across to the other field in the table and you'll see the acutal spec number - not the name.

IE this value

WSS-M2C946-A

This is the spec written by engineering for what the oil needs to do - along with will be various tests to verify the oil is capable. Now that is shopped around by ford/motorcraft - to the likes of Castrol, Mobil, Chevron, and other lubricant companies (not all of them make gasoline by the way)

and they price who will make quantity for how much - and meet test requirements. A few years ago I would have said motorcraft oil was mobil clean 5000 blend - but today I'm not sure.

the first GM Dexos oil was Castrol for example.

anywho - whatever you use needs to say on there - meets or exceeds ford spec WSS-M2C946-A.
 






The oil specs are different in Canada. The Manual states for the 3.5L Ecoboost;
Recommended Motor oil (Canada):
Motorcraft® SAE 5W-30 Super Premium Motor Oil
CXO-5W30-LSP12
OR
Optional Motor oil (Canada):
Motorcraft® SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil
CXO-5W30-LFS12

I'm quite sure that the Super Premium Motor Oil is the regular 'Dino' oil since every other spec in the table shows either semi synthetic or full synthetic.
The dealer uses the regular oil in mine.

Peter

While in Texas I had the Explorer serviced at Five star Ford. If I hadn't requested 5w30 they would have used 5w20 even though the cap is clearly marked 5w30.
 






so go across to the other field in the table and you'll see the actual spec number - not the name.

IE this value

WSS-M2C946-A

.
In the 2017 Manual the Spec number for both is identical; WSS-M2C946-A
 






In the 2017 Manual the Spec number for both is identical; WSS-M2C946-A
what I was getting at is the other brand oils that you would buy will not reference any CXO-5W30-LSP12, but will instead state WSS-M2C946-A.

amsoil, pennzoil platinum, mobil 1, etc. And yes all the ones as listed in the manual should refer to the same spec value - WSS-M2C946-A
 






NOTE: Posts 532 - 540 were moved here from another thread.


Please keep in mind that this thread is simply a poll asking you to vote on 1 of 2 options. It is NOT about the pros and cons of oil changes or intervals.
There is already a thread on that and please post there if you wish to expand on this subject. Thank you.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/oil-change-interval.309598/

Peter
Since keeping it straight is a concern is should have specified oil. 100% natural or a synthetic blend or 100% synthetic.
This has more ball bearings then thyme or disstance.
 






Since keeping it straight is a concern is should have specified oil. 100% natural or a synthetic blend or 100% synthetic.
This has more ball bearings then thyme or disstance.
The type of oil shouldn't make any difference. You will still follow 1of the 2 options.
 






The type of oil shouldn't make any difference. You will still follow 1of the 2 options.
Actually going over 3000 miles on natural oil will break it down and it should be changed. Synthetics are di-esters and do not break down at all like carbon based oils. The oil change interval monitor goes well beyond the 3000 miles. The oil used is a great difference and matters greatly to the question. As does environment. Distance driven between uses also matters as the cooling of the oil attracts moisture and if it is not run for a time at operating temperatures to allow the H2O to be exhausted, it will accumulate. This is not so detrimental with synthetics as the di-ester does not blend with the H2O like carbon based oils. Carbon based oils turn to a milky substance, you will find inside your oil cap in cold weather if oil is not run at operating temperatures for a time. Short tripping will cause H2O to accumulate in crankcase. If you are running turbos it is just that much more important to change oil at proper intervals and again the oil used makes a difference for all the reasons i have stated.
 






If you really want to know when to change your oil if you are running straight dino oil is to have it analyzed and see what it is doing and what the viscosity is and what the sample looks likes compared to fresh oil of the same kind when you change it.

On my diesel I am running straight dino oil and have stretched my oil changes out to 7,000 miles and the lab that I send my samples to say that I can go further.
 






its probably a little more important to run a high end oil filter, OEM, royal purple, mobil 1 etc. Usually the more you pay the better filter you get. I just change mine when its starting to look black in color. These tests talk about wear, but do they talk about carbon or sludge build up or oil consumption in vehicles that change their oils later? Cheap and old oil can gum up pistons, crankcase passages, coke turbo seals and cause all sorts of problems besides internal wear.
 






its probably a little more important to run a high end oil filter, OEM, royal purple, mobil 1 etc. Usually the more you pay the better filter you get. I just change mine when its starting to look black in color. These tests talk about wear, but do they talk about carbon or sludge build up or oil consumption in vehicles that change their oils later? Cheap and old oil can gum up pistons, crankcase passages, coke turbo seals and cause all sorts of problems besides internal wear.
I agree but my point is there is a major difference in physical properties of oil and change intervals must follow the type of oil. Period.
 












I agree but my point is there is a major difference in physical properties of oil and change intervals must follow the type of oil. Period.
correct, manufacturers calibrate the oil life gauge or interval to a certain oil that the manual states to use before the engines worn out. I know changing the oil when it turns black is on the early side but it makes me feel better:D.
One car I have burns 2 liters of oil in 500 miles and turns it almost a soot color due to fuel contamination, its mean for a hi boost application, umm yes I drive it very gently?o_O
 



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Oils in our passenger vehicles do not get tested unless you never change it. What tests engine oil are things like airplane engines, jet engines, Drag cars, Nascar, indy cars, Formula cars, Marine engines. All these things stress oils way beyond what we all do... most of us anyway. I sold additives years ago. One called Steed was the first and there was another one that is still around. I sold Amsoil for a time too. I like Amsoil as a gear lube and grease.
 






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