OMG NOOOO!! can I drop my oil pan???

[Turdle]

Thats why I haven't gotten anything powder coated.. I'm afraid it'll come back to me pink :

See, I don't care what they say, you are a sharp cheese.

 

[Turdle]

Have you ever put yourself into a situation like laying down the best ever floor finish, only to realize you are standing in the corner of a wet room?

I can't shake it--and need some advice so I can sleep knowing I have a plan--

Please bear with me here--

The engine is resting on the accessory bracket-on my bottle jack which is about maxed out and resting on a chunk of 2x6 which is held maxed out by my floor jack. Yes--this is true--picture it if you can--

The trans pan is held by a 2x6 which is being pushed up by a log, on end, and another floor jack.

And it gets worse-

The front support point looks to be about 1 quarter of a square inch for a contact point between my bottle jack and the bracket. My fear is being up in there, wrenching and the whole mess comes down, breaking my arms, or even worse my oil pump.

I only have one more floor jack, and, it is way to short to do anything about all this mess. So--

How about a strap around the headers, and my engine lifter cherry picker deal just to help support the weight a bit? I can't see a way to secure a chain without bumping everything-

On the other hand--it has been sitting like this for about 30 hours now-

 

[Turdle]

Maybe you can't picture it

front support apparatus

front support point and trans support apparatus in order.

 

[JTX]

Man i wish i would have seen this thread...

A few weeks ago i installed a Powerstroke in a F350 and installed the oil pan after it was in. I loosened the motor mounts and transmission mounts and picked the motor up enough to get the pan in. I also loosened the front and mid body mount bolts so the motor would clear the body. Around 10 bolts total... Would have been easier than messing with the suspension. The body can be raised at least 3"..

Worst part about putting the pan on that truck was it didn't use a gasket. I had silicon gasket maker all over the place. Its was a pain to get the rear main also.

Good luck, i feel your pain. lol

 

[JTX]

I'd take advantage of the cherry picker. Either hold the frame up or the motor. Also throw your tires under it just in case it falls. I always do that, i'd rather scratch a rim than break an arm. lol

 

[IZwack]

Wrapping the chain around the headers should work.

Alternative : I dont know if you have a tow strap but if you do, try that instead of the chain so you dont scratch or dent the manifolds.

 

[Turdle]

I do have a tow strap, and, also some of those 1000 lb ratchet straps.

 

[IZwack]

I do have a tow strap, and, also some of those 1000 lb ratchet straps.

Then I'd say your golden and can get rid of all those jacks. You can probably use the ratchet strap to control the angle of the engine with it wrapped around something solid at the front of the block.

The good thing is that you're thinking things through instead of putting yourself in danger by rushing things.

 

[Turdle]

Then I'd say your golden and can get rid of all those jacks. You can probably use the ratchet strap to control the angle of the engine with it wrapped around something solid at the front of the block.

The good thing is that you're thinking things through instead of putting yourself in danger by rushing things.

Thanks-I can sleep now.
Earlier the goal was just to get the engine up, and I am afraid I wasn't thinking ahead. I saw room to do the needed work, and, am now glad I stopped at that point rather than plugging on, because I sure was tempted to. Something told me to stop here and take a break.

 

[BrooklynBay]

The set up with the floor jack, and the bottle jack looks a little dangerous. Maybe you could use a solid block of wood instead of a bottle jack. Even putting the floor jack on cinder blocks might be better.

 

[410Fortune]

LOL Jon come on you need your arms and hands man! get those straps out! I support transmissions with ratchet straps from the frame rails or even through the hole in the floor, engine with a hoist

No matter how good the jack its still a $.04 O ring holding that stuff up

 

[Turdle]

The pictures are funny now,
I am going to strap this puppy so they continue to be.

I have help on the way.

Oh, Jamie, I was reading thru and noticed I never said thank you for sending an oil pan.

Thank you Jamie.

Just one question-am I waiting for the mail man or ups?

 

[410Fortune]

Fed Ex!! Thats how I roll

it will arrive tomorrow, I wish I could say today but I tracked it and tomorrow

You are more than welcome Jon!!

I am going to find me some Sport trac knuckles so I am planning to send you some sport trac front calipers and some gen II rear calipers for a bright red powdercoat, heck yeah!

I know you will put this pan to good use, and besides if I can fix my 98 project like this, I owe you a THANKS, saves me hours! I can take a front end out in an hour, trans and engine.................errr not so much! Damn Gen II V8 bellhousing and pass side exhaust bolts = PITA, I am glad we got a 5.0L explorer, I am not glad they shoehorned it in there, I love my BII and the FJ more and more all the time! LOL

 

[Diff Whack Daddy]

I have pulled several of these motors, both by themselves, and with the tranny and t-case still attatched. I just use a cherry picker and run a ratchet strap through the upper intake. Just be careful that you are on top of the vacuum hoses and wires in the intake valley.

Before you ask, only remove engine and tranny still attatched if the rest of the vehicle is bound for the junk yard as the radiator core support gets cut out for clearance.

 

[410Fortune]

I thought the same thing Diff Whack Daddy, but I have recently been told and shown pics of the 5.0L and the trans coming out of the engine bay WITHOUT cutting the rad support......

when they pick drivetrains at the junk yard, you better believe they use a tow strap and the exhaust manifolds or intake... I have seen some scary stuff! but with the rad support out of the way its uber easy

I hacked the front off my wrecked 96, had the engine and trans out in 2 hours, then I hacked the support off my other 96, took me an hour to stab the engine and trans in there....took longer to weld on the new rad support! LOL
something to consider, new rad support actually a short cut? LOL

 

[slyfoxexplore]

There is always that one thing that holds ya up. Recently I got 94 stang out of the junk yard (pulling the motor) for the life of me the only one mount would not break loose. after a broken 2 foot breaker bar and a broken wrench later I got tire of it and ended up just plasma cutting it out. did the rest of the engine in 2 hours and took almost two days for that motor mount.

 

[Diff Whack Daddy]

I might as well own stock in PB blaster. That stuff has saved me many of times. I also learned that heat from an oxyacetyline torch can help to free things up too, especially when you cool it with PB blaster

 

[CDW6212R]

Jon, strap that off really well, and watch the radiator. Keep the fan blades away from it.

FYI, Jamie, the 95-01 calipers are better than the Sport Trac and 01 Sport calipers. They will interchange, but the old pads look better. Plus the newer calipers do not have steel pistons, they are phenolic, I've had those begin to break apart on my older mail cars. I have the late calipers and didn't use them, I'd be glad to get rid of them, but you don't need them.

 

[410Fortune]

phenolic caliper plunger????? Wow can it take the heat and wear? sounds like NO LOL

I have all the brake parts from my old crushed 96, so I am sending those to Jon, I will rebuild the calipers when they get back from him

 

[CDW6212R]

The phenolic works fine for anything but severe duty, which is my vehicles. Let us know how easy they rebuild for you, I've only done two pairs before.