pcv valve location on sohc | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

pcv valve location on sohc

I just replaced mine. I took a flat screwdriver and gave a few "persuasion" twists between the hose and valve. You just have to break the seal a little and it will come out. The trick is getting the new valve into the tee. I just grinded the new valve down until it went in.

I gave bad advice here. Don't grind the valve down. I ground mine down too much and now it won't seal. The problem is the barb on the old valve leaves an impression in the tee. When you grind down the new barb, it ends up being to small once it reaches the old impression and makes it loose. Off to get a new one. I'll press this one in like I should have.

One other thing....I also bought a valve(Fram) for my '97 F150. It came with new plastic connectors and a tee. The tee looks like it would work for the explorer if your in a bind and need one. It's shaped a little different, but should work.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





I bought the Ford part, which is the 2 hoses that go to the PCV, the PCV w/ t, and the hose the pcv sits in that goes back down to the whatever it is under the lower intake. that was like $80 bucks. I really just wanted the 2 hoses because mine were old and collapsing. But my question remains, did this help anyone's low rpm idle vibration problem ????? I have no CEL and my car runs great aside from when I stop and the rpms drop to 800 or under.
 






anyone ???? I have no CEL so I need some help with this .....
 






The PCV assembly would be about $45 for me, I passed on that price. I installed a common parts store unit.

FYI, I'd suggest not forcing any PCV into an old "T" like others have. I have read of at least two people breaking that "T" in the process.

The PCV which I bought was steel, and the lip was too large. I filed it down, it took about five minutes to make it go in easily enough. The trick is to then add a small amount of Ultra Black RTV, that will seal it and it will never leak.

If your PCV was bad, it would basically be sticking, full of residue etc, not opening or closing easily. Good luck,
 






yah

I just bought a 98 and yah same problems guy said he swapped it out with a 2003 found out he is more wrong and two gay boy ####in lol yah thanks to you guys I know where my problem is located for sure thanks alot everyone I will keep on this site thanks to everyone site seems to have people that know what they are talking about
 






I just bought a 98 and yah same problems guy said he swapped it out with a 2003 found out he is more wrong and two gay boy ####in lol yah thanks to you guys I know where my problem is located for sure thanks alot everyone I will keep on this site thanks to everyone site seems to have people that know what they are talking about

Is this in English?
 






I have changed my PCV and now there is a lot of smoke comming out of the valve cover and being sucked into the air intake what could be causing this?
 






The SOHC has a fragile PCV valve plastic "T" in the back, did that get broken? I'd double check the part application used, PCV's do not all have the identical restriction. Some flow a lot more or less than yours.
 






I have changed my PCV and now there is a lot of smoke comming out of the valve cover and being sucked into the air intake what could be causing this?

Put it in Backwards
 






I don’t know if anyone is still looking on this thread but I got my 98’ Ford Explorer XLT SOHC 4.0 L a year ago and it has completely stop starting all together I got the engine light checked at auto zone before and was told to change the pcv valve I found it but I don’t know how to remove it?
 






Same here how you remove this little ***** without breaking anything
 






Back
Top