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Performance Upgrades - Maintenance - Modifications - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street Trucks. Covering the Explorer, ST, Sport, Lincoln Aviator, Sport Trac, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Aerostar. Featuring H.I. - Human Intelligence.
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Cracked ring gland: Pre-detonation is the cause. No surprise there heh?
You know, just to counter the doom-sayers, I would not even pull the main caps. The bottom end on these engines as you know are tough.
I would not open that can-o-worms, just replace the rod bearings with stock, heck if you get them out with 0 damage I would just reassemble with the original rod bearings.
Awwwwwwwww im sorry i didnt even know Mellings made them..man thats a good price.please post pictures of them and if you see any differences from stock..the sealed power ones are much bigger than stock.i can post pictures if you want..
Cracked ring gland: Pre-detonation is the cause. No surprise there heh?
You know, just to counter the doom-sayers, I would not even pull the main caps. The bottom end on these engines as you know are tough.
I would not open that can-o-worms, just replace the rod bearings with stock, heck if you get them out with 0 damage I would just reassemble with the original rod bearings.
I agree if the bearings spec by plastigage check out to be in the low range,then yea dont even touch them.even same with the rings,if the bore measures spec and you still see hatching then its all probably good for another 100k+..
But never never ever put new stock bearings on a crank without turning it,i guarantee it will smoke them in a couple thousand miles..it just will trust me..
I found my notes..they are the same exact piston and neither are coated..the "WH" is just the single piston part number where the "H" is sold is sets..so if you order 6 by means of the "WH" you payed more because its sold individually. ..
You can call feudal mogul and talk to Harvey if hes still around
FR-425 and JD4242, thanks - I may just do that instead. It was a great runner with solid oil pressure, and while I do have new main bearings I may just hang onto them for another day. So far every rod bearing has looked really good and the one main bearing I peeked at looked like new (1 out of 8 sample size, I know...). The only reason I went for the rebuild was slight oil consumption and some oil in the intake, plus gaskets were all seeping like there was pressure behind them. The state of the pistons/rings seems to be the source of those issues.
JD, I'll post pictures of the Melling rockers for sure. I got excited about some Harland Sharp roller units on Summit that said they'd fit, but checking Sharp's website they came back to fitting Essex (garbage) motors instead.
I found my notes..they are the same exact piston and neither are coated..the "WH" is just the single piston part number wher the "H" is sold is sets..so if you order 6 by means of the "WH" you payed more because its sold individually. ..
You can call feudal mogul and talk to Harvey if hes still around
FR-425 and JD4242, thanks - I may just do that instead. It was a great runner with solid oil pressure, and while I do have new main bearings I may just hang onto them for another day. So far every rod bearing has looked really good and the one main bearing I peeked at looked like new (1 out of 8 sample size, I know...). The only reason I went for the rebuild was slight oil consumption and some oil in the intake, plus gaskets were all seeping like there was pressure behind them. The state of the pistons/rings seems to be the source of those issues.
JD, I'll post pictures of the Melling rockers for sure. I got excited about some Harland Sharp roller units on Summit that said they'd fit, but checking Sharp's website they came back to fitting Essex (garbage) motors instead.
plastigage the bearings, if they come back in spec,throw it back together. Id still hone the cylinders with new pistons and rings. .but personally for what a new crank cost from rock auto,i highly recommend it.with a new crank and pistons, its a brand new motor and with you being the new owner,you can properly take care of it and it will last FOREVER
Ps yea i wish they had cheap rollers..i just paid $1k for mine from Tom..im the 2nd person to ever have roller rockers and only to run 1.7
plastigage the bearings, if they come back in spec,throw it back together. Id still hone the cylinders with new pistons and rings. .but personally for what a new crank cost from rock auto,i highly recommend it.with a new crank and pistons, its a brand new motor and with you being the new owner,you can properly take care of it and it will last FOREVER
Ps yea i wish they had cheap rollers..i just paid $1k for mine from Tom..im the 2nd person to ever have roller rockers and only to run 1.7
That's the plan, I'll check them and I'll be honing the cylinders for sure. Have to think about the crank. Tempting to have all new stuff but honestly the truck gets driven so little, that the plan is by the time this thing reaches another 50k miles I'll have it all apart for a performance build anyways. Before this I wasn't sure I could pull the motor myself. Now I know I can do it in under 6 hours.
Tom's roller kit is super nice. Wish it was cheaper.
Was looking at your registry briefly. Spoke to Tom about his adapter plate to mount a supercharger on the OHV. Didn't look like there was much there for flow dynamics, does that matter with boost? Is yours just an adapter plate?
Thanks, I canceled my order of the 6 individual pistons and ordered a set.
That's the plan, I'll check them and I'll be honing the cylinders for sure. Have to think about the crank. Tempting to have all new stuff but honestly the truck gets driven so little, that the plan is by the time this thing reaches another 50k miles I'll have it all apart for a performance build anyways.
Tom's roller kit is super nice. Wish it was cheaper.
Was looking at your registry briefly. Spoke to Tom about his adapter plate to mount a supercharger on the OHV. Didn't look like there was much there for flow dynamics, does that matter with boost? Is yours just an adapter plate?
No problem. I thought i knew almost everything about the ohv but hey learned something new about the rockers..good find.love this forum
Yea Toms is very costly. .but it does come with new lifters and pushrods..lifters alone are around $300+ for this motor,why i suggest cleaning them...but he solves two major issues for me..clogged lifters and poor oiling at valve tip..plus i have custom valves that required lash caps if i didnt run rollers,im not a fan of caps..1.7 also gives me much more lift and stability in higher rpms,which my motor was built for..
My supercharger is all custom and its also a GM M90 thats been cnc port and polished.my mount is much larger than his,but yes space does come into play, it is just flowing air
Cracked ring gland: Pre-detonation is the cause. No surprise there heh?
You know, just to counter the doom-sayers, I would not even pull the main caps. The bottom end on these engines as you know are tough.
I would not open that can-o-worms, just replace the rod bearings with stock, heck if you get them out with 0 damage I would just reassemble with the original rod bearings.
plastigage the bearings, if they come back in spec,throw it back together. Id still hone the cylinders with new pistons and rings. .but personally for what a new crank cost from rock auto,i highly recommend it.with a new crank and pistons, its a brand new motor and with you being the new owner,you can properly take care of it and it will last FOREVER
Ps yea i wish they had cheap rollers..i just paid $1k for mine from Tom..im the 2nd person to ever have roller rockers and only to run 1.7
Depending on my divorce settlement, I'm planning on getting these from Tom as well. I thought his prices where good considering what you get and what it solves.
How long have you had yours and how do you like them?
Depending on my divorce settlement, I'm planning on getting these from Tom as well. I thought his prices where good considering what you get and what it solves.
How long have you had yours and how do you like them?
I have not received them yet.he has only sold one other kit and the guy is a member on here .he has a thread but he also hasnt had the motor running yet...the 1.8 seem to be pretty hard to fit,1.7 are much safer in my opinion. Even 1.7 you need to mill the seats down alot and it decreases seat/open pressure..Tom has some things up his sleeve though and hopefully ill end up with the first prototype. .
His major problem with his parts is that not everyone wants them so pricing is based off single production pieces. .its hard to price something reasonable when you put HOURS into it and the parts are expensive to start with..i believe he doesnt make much on his labor,its more of a passion for him.me and him think very alike,when we talk its HOURS and you can here his wife screaming at him in the back ground to get off phone and stop dreaming..hahah
Oh, I relate well with that...! Today's economy doesn't make things any easier either.
I have not spoke to him much on the problems with 1.8:1 rockers. It was mostly dealing with the issues his set corrects that I was most happy about. I don't have a problem making room in the LI or head, but I'm more concerned with longevity and overall performance. It seems like an easy way to get more cam without adding a cam, but then what about adding a cam with the rockers...gets interesting real quick.
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Oh, I relate well with that...! Today's economy doesn't make things any easier either.
I have not spoke to him much on the problems with 1.8:1 rockers. It was mostly dealing with the issues his set corrects that I was most happy about. I don't have a problem making room in the LI or head, but I'm more concerned with longevity and overall performance. It seems like an easy way to get more cam without adding a cam, but then what about adding a cam with the rockers...gets interesting real quick.
Problem only exist with the 422 and 1.8..and not really a huge problem, you just mill the seats..but noone knows the long term effects of lowering the seat and open pressure of the springs
