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Power seats

jobejerry

Member
Joined
February 23, 2015
Messages
12
Reaction score
8
Location
Utah
City, State
tooele utah
Year, Model & Trim Level
1993 ford explorer xlt
Im doing a power seat swap in my 93 that has no power seats. It appears that its just a power and ground wire ran to the seat, can anyone verify this? Really want these seats to work like they're designed.
 



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Im doing a power seat swap in my 93 that has no power seats. It appears that its just a power and ground wire ran to the seat, can anyone verify this? Really want these seats to work like they're designed.
That would be correct.
 


















I just got one power seat the other day with plans to get the second later. I want to wire them up to the power box under the hood with the empty 60 amp fuse slot. Any ideas on what gauge wire I should use and how to get the two power wires together in the fuse box? Can I actually run both the wires and use one seat now? Or would I have to just wire one seat now and then wire the other later?
 






The factory power seat fuse is 60 amps and for 60 amps I'd go no smaller than #10 gauge wire. I don't know what the connection is going to be like under the box so I can't say how to connect 2 to 1 other than twist/solder/shrink wrap. Another option is to use a self resetting 60 amp circuit breaker (think like they use in RVs). It has lugs that stick up and you can easily put eye/rings on the end of the wires to connect to the circuit breaker

~Mark
 






I am sort of confused here. Sorry for sounding like a newbie, but I figure the dumb question is the one not asked.
I measured up the stock power seat power wire, and it came out to 12 gauge. A few charts I have seen, and a recommendation from maniak, say that I should use 10 gauge. Is it safe to use 12 gauge for the power wire?
Also, I gave up on the idea of using the power distribution box since I can't figure out how to open the bottom to see if the blank space already has the wire run to it. My plan is to use two female terminals plugged directly into the 60 amp fuse. Does this sound safe at all?
 






If the factory wire was indeed 12 gauge then you could probably get away with it. Shorter wire runs can get away with thinner wire but I tend to err on the side of caution. As for the fuse etc.. A ring terminal on the battery to a twin 30 amp (with bus bar) self resetting or 60 amp manual reset breaker (https://smile.amazon.com/Asdomo-12V-24V-Trolling-Inverter-Waterproof/dp/B01CZDAQEY) would allow easy connection and easy mounting.

~Mark
 






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