So the work continues a little everyday after work. It's slowly getting there. I am not trying to bore anybody to death here, but keeping track of the work I do, and how I do it, helps me recall info, and it might help someone searching. Ok, with that said, here is the latest update on Pugly. The new pass side knuckle turned out great. I cleaned it up, painted it, installed the BJ's (lower nut 90 ft lbs) upper then lower. Almost forgot to install the upper grease zerk before the axle went back in. lol So as I said earlier, the C-clip eliminator mod spring needed replaced. I quicly discovered I was right and the old one used was way wrong, and the reason I had some side to side slack with the axle going in/out of the diff. Pics below show the old on left vs the new on right. Man that thing took forever to get over the spline ends. The outer seal got replaced, splines got cleaned, and new grease, then put back in the diff. Now that is done, the rebuilt spindle could go back on. I cleaned and painted it as well. Some anti-seize to the back of it, and bolted it right up nicely (45-50 ft lbs). I could instantly feel the spring doing it's job, as I had to push on the spindle some to get the spindle nuts on. I have to run a little emery cloth over the bearing seat still, but I waited until it was back on to do so. When installing it back on, I never know what can happen, and I figured, might as well wait for this step. So now for the Moog 2pc adjustable caster/camber bushings. I removed the Drivers side with the air chisel with flat blade. A little at a time as I went around the bushing lip, and it slowly raised up, and eventually out. Pass side had a stock 1.30* bushing, and the drivers side had been replaced with a 2.0* bushing about 6-7 yrs ago. Cleaned up the holes on the arms for the new ones, sprayed a bit of PB for slight lube, then tapped the new bushings in set at N-0, which is a neutral position, and the slots in the bushings point side to side (front to back) on the arm. If they are installed like this, the alignment shop has a base starting point to use with the pre-spec check. To turn them, a 35mm socket works best, if your doing these Moogs yourself. When you doing ball joints, these bushings HAVE to come out to get the knuckle off or the top BJ stud hangs up, and the knuckle won't come off. UPS says new coils are arriving today (late afternoon/early eve usually when UPS shows up), so I can get them in. I have to tear down the parts rig for the stock coil seats still, as I can't find my originals anywhere. This delay will mean I need another day to wrap up this portion of the suspension work. I want to show you what happened to the knuckle from the loose rotor hammering away at it, from the blown inner bearing. Pic below shows the old damaged knuckle with the inner brake pad keeper chewed away. Then the new knuckle for reference. More pics and updates as they happen.