Dismiss Notice



Register Today It's free! This box will disappear once registered!

Pugly

Discussion in 'Elite Explorer Registry' started by gmanpaint, August 3, 2010.

  • Searches ExplorerForum.com
    1. gmanpaint

      gmanpaint Torsion Bar Free Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      August 1, 2008
      Messages:
      8,798
      Likes Received:
      231
      Trophy Points:
      83
      City, State:
      STL MO
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      94 XLT-95 FX4
      It will just be a few degrees. 180 most likely. I have run summers without many times, and replaced when it gets cold.
       
    2. Support EF

      Join the Elite Explorers for $20 for 2 years!

      Explorer Forum has probably saved you that much already, and will continue to save you money as you learn how to diagnose fix problems yourself, and learn which modifications work without having to experiment on your own. Elite Explorer members see practically no ads, can add their own profile photo, upload photo attachments directly to your posts and Media Gallery, create more private Conversations, and more. Join Today. Your support is greatly appreciated.


      to hide adverts.
    3. gmanpaint

      gmanpaint Torsion Bar Free Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      August 1, 2008
      Messages:
      8,798
      Likes Received:
      231
      Trophy Points:
      83
      City, State:
      STL MO
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      94 XLT-95 FX4
      Developed a weird noise on Pugly. Crawled underneath and gave it an eyeball inspection. I found the TTB swivel bushing to be shot. Fan-fricking-tastic. Ugh. Now to find a write up on the best way to do this repair. (SOB!) Everything else was in proper order that I could see.

      For my personal reference:
      Pulled the front rotors, and also found the Dr side inner bearing grease wasn't doing it's job, so I replaced the race & a freshly packed bearing. Cleaned the spindle up with some steel wool, and hosed it down with brake cleaner. While I was at it, I cleaned and re-packed the other bearing, and on the Pass side. Checked the front diff fluids, and it was still as clean as it was when installed. Level was perfect.
       
    4. gmanpaint

      gmanpaint Torsion Bar Free Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      August 1, 2008
      Messages:
      8,798
      Likes Received:
      231
      Trophy Points:
      83
      City, State:
      STL MO
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      94 XLT-95 FX4
      Anybody know where to buy the front axle splined washers? I have tried the parts stores with no luck. Not even sure how to look them up. Dealer part only?

      worn tooth washer.jpg
       
    5. Turdle

      Turdle I bake stuff Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      June 16, 2003
      Messages:
      27,987
      Likes Received:
      305
      Trophy Points:
      113
      City, State:
      Humboldt, KS
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      2000 Mounty
    6. Rick

      Rick Pumpkin Pilot Staff Member Admin Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      February 8, 1999
      Messages:
      30,349
      Media:
      40
      Albums:
      4
      Likes Received:
      337
      Trophy Points:
      113
      City, State:
      Wayoutin, Aridzona
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      '93 XL Pumpkin Edition
      Callsign:
      AB7FH
      Tell them you need to test fit them and if they fit he has a new market. They should give you a set to do a writeup on :D
       
      • Like Like x 1
    7. gmanpaint

      gmanpaint Torsion Bar Free Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      August 1, 2008
      Messages:
      8,798
      Likes Received:
      231
      Trophy Points:
      83
      City, State:
      STL MO
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      94 XLT-95 FX4
      Thanks Jon, no idea how you found that, but your Google Foo is strong today.

      From their explanation, it is a discontinued part. No wonder why it has been so hard for me to find.

      One washer set will run me $32 shipped. I would rather go to the salvage yard and grab some used ones for that price. Interesting product tho, with one side using a Teflon washer. They have to be pretty thin for 3 of them to equal one stock washer width.

      Good idea Rick, but not worth the hassle for me. LOL
       
    8. Maniak

      Maniak Moderator-Stock 91-94 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      February 9, 1999
      Messages:
      12,088
      Media:
      1
      Likes Received:
      33
      Trophy Points:
      68
      City, State:
      Vail, Arizona
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      1992 XLT 4x4
      Junk yard is where I get them.. Each time I go there for something I check every 1st gen 4x4 for those. I finally have 5 or so spare ones. With all the front end travel I have now and the C-Clip eliminator I tend to bend those a lot sooner than I did when we were closer to stock.

      ~Mark
       
      • Like Like x 1
    9. gmanpaint

      gmanpaint Torsion Bar Free Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      August 1, 2008
      Messages:
      8,798
      Likes Received:
      231
      Trophy Points:
      83
      City, State:
      STL MO
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      94 XLT-95 FX4
      Mark,
      Funny you mention the C-Clip eliminator. I just installed a new spring when I replaced the spindle & knuckle. It is this side that the splined washer was worn by the end of the spindle. It was mentioned that the spindle seal I used might be too thick, pushing the end into the splined washer, because not enough axle was exposed (short shaft syndrome), making it too tight. This made sense to me, but the new spring was also on my mind as a contributor. I squashed that thinking, believing the spring would assist in pushing the axle outward, as I have to push on that spindle to bolt it back up, due to the eliminator spring tension.

      So, can you explain your thoughts on how the eliminator spring can contribute to the washer failure? .

      I bought another spindle outer seal today, and will measure it against the one installed now to see if there is a thickness difference. I also got 4 new wheel bearings, and some Ford molly bearing grease. I believe the noises I am hearing is the bearings when they get hot. The red synthetic grease I used, just doesn't cut it. Going to give the spindles another once over with some emery cloth, as I believe I will find some burnishing on them. Looks like the grass will skip a week to be mowed, as I got's me some wrenching to do this weekend. lol
       
    10. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      June 17, 2004
      Messages:
      16,545
      Media:
      3
      Albums:
      1
      Likes Received:
      299
      Trophy Points:
      113
      City, State:
      Knoxville, TN
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      98 Limited AWD
      Well done at fixing the AC, long ago I couldn't take the Summer heat any more.
       
      • Like Like x 1
    11. gmanpaint

      gmanpaint Torsion Bar Free Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      August 1, 2008
      Messages:
      8,798
      Likes Received:
      231
      Trophy Points:
      83
      City, State:
      STL MO
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      94 XLT-95 FX4
      I am with you there Don. I have been breaking out in bad heat rashes. I can't take it either. The old 4.0 doesn't like it tho. Temps climb pretty high when used, so it's only on for short periods.
       
    12. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      June 17, 2004
      Messages:
      16,545
      Media:
      3
      Albums:
      1
      Likes Received:
      299
      Trophy Points:
      113
      City, State:
      Knoxville, TN
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      98 Limited AWD
      The radiators are really efficient(they are big), so the potential is there to keep the engine well below hot temps. You just need to weed out any suspect parts and be sure the air is directed properly through the radiator. It should be no trouble to keep them below 180* if you wanted that to be the limit.

      My stock 99 V6 with an electric fan and 180 t'stat, it ran 180-185 virtually always, with random spikes to 195 or 200(three plus hours of engine running(in Summer with the AC on)). That's how good the radiators are, huge compared to say a Mustang and their tiny grille openings.
       
      Last edited: July 9, 2016
    13. Maniak

      Maniak Moderator-Stock 91-94 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      February 9, 1999
      Messages:
      12,088
      Media:
      1
      Likes Received:
      33
      Trophy Points:
      68
      City, State:
      Vail, Arizona
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      1992 XLT 4x4
      I thought about it some more and now I don't think the c-clip eliminator is actually doing anything bad to that splined washer. The outer spindle seal is another story.... I think my extra suspension travel may be more of an issue BUT since I no longer have the boot on the long side slip shaft it shouldn't be pulling the axle in against the splined washer anymore.

      ~Mark
       
    14. gmanpaint

      gmanpaint Torsion Bar Free Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      August 1, 2008
      Messages:
      8,798
      Likes Received:
      231
      Trophy Points:
      83
      City, State:
      STL MO
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      94 XLT-95 FX4
      I think this engine is getting fatigue with over 250k on it. It has a new Rad, newish temp valve, newish water pump, severe duty fan clutch, and has been flushed every year. It is running a new 185* T-stat, and properly mixed coolant. The fan stays engaged when the stock temp gauge reaches about 1/3 of they way up, and only gets that hot with the A/C running.

      I ran that speedy boot like you did in the past, but it didn't last long as it broke. I am not running anything on the slip either presently. It must be that outer seal causing the troubles. Hopefully I will have time tomorrow to tear it apart to compare the one installed to the one I just bought. The inner seal looked identical to the replacement, but I will look at it as well, to make sure it sits back far enough on the axle.
       
      Elite Explorer members see practically no ads, can add their own profile photo, upload photo attachments directly to your posts and Media Gallery, create more private Conversations, and more. Join Today. Your support is greatly appreciated.


    15. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      June 17, 2004
      Messages:
      16,545
      Media:
      3
      Albums:
      1
      Likes Received:
      299
      Trophy Points:
      113
      City, State:
      Knoxville, TN
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      98 Limited AWD
      What coolant mixture do you have, 50%, 25% etc? It's best to use as little anti-freeze as is needed for the climate. How cold do you get in Winter, the real lows?

      I see the single digits here rarely, but still maybe once or a few times a year. So I can get away with just 25% or so mixture. I do always use an additive also, I like the Water Weter, which improves heat transfer and lubricates the WP seals. That does make the gauge show noticeably lower, just a little given the same thermostat and fan.
       
    16. gmanpaint

      gmanpaint Torsion Bar Free Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      August 1, 2008
      Messages:
      8,798
      Likes Received:
      231
      Trophy Points:
      83
      City, State:
      STL MO
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      94 XLT-95 FX4
      50% coolant 50% distilled water is my normal mix. It gets plenty cold here, and does get to single digits or lower occasionally. I do have that leaking lower intake gasket still, and have been adding about a pint of mix every 2 weeks or so.
      Would a leak like that create the temps to spike due to not having 100% flow efficiency? It doesn't come out under pressure at all, just trickles out mainly when the engine is turned off, and down the backside of the block. :dunno:
       
    17. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      June 17, 2004
      Messages:
      16,545
      Media:
      3
      Albums:
      1
      Likes Received:
      299
      Trophy Points:
      113
      City, State:
      Knoxville, TN
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      98 Limited AWD
      Air in the engine will make it run a little warmer, but it sounds like you don't have much at all if you keep the radiator topped off. To get noticeably too hot, I think it should have to be down a good 2 inches or more below full.

      Check the back of an antifreeze jug and see what the chart shows for your coldest temps there. I bet you can increase the amount of water(distilled) ratio in it, and try an additive. That might be all it needs, after of course fixing the small leak. Buying new coolants etc, is expensive you know, so I'm sure you want to not be doing it over and over often.

      I'm about to do my "new" truck coolant, all hoses, and I think one gallon of antifreeze will get me close to the zero mark for protection. I always have 2-3 gallons available, and start with one, the additive, and then count the water needed to top it off. If you don't completely empty the system(some is left in the block), then it doesn't take as much antifreeze to reach the needed mixture. So I rarely use more than the first gallon when I do one of my Fords. Often though it'll be one in the radiator, and then close to a 50/50 mix in the overflow bottle. I adjust that based on how much water it takes to fill the radiator.

      Take a shot at that intake gasket, which isn't that big of a project I think, I forgot if you have the OHV or the SOHC. I think you've got the OHV right, I'm sure you would have posted a lot about the SOHC if you had that thing(I have one in my 99 that I plan to excise some day).
       
    18. gmanpaint

      gmanpaint Torsion Bar Free Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      August 1, 2008
      Messages:
      8,798
      Likes Received:
      231
      Trophy Points:
      83
      City, State:
      STL MO
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      94 XLT-95 FX4
      I have never used an additive in coolant before. I will look into it. Rad is always full, as the resi always has some in it, and where I top it off. I keep a couple gallons mixed and on hand for that. I did the lower ohv gasket job a couple years ago myself, and the dr rear water port didnt seal perfectly, as it started leaking some time later. I have a new gasket kit, just haven't got to it yet. Been too busy running down other problems, keeping it on the road. lol
       
    19. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      June 17, 2004
      Messages:
      16,545
      Media:
      3
      Albums:
      1
      Likes Received:
      299
      Trophy Points:
      113
      City, State:
      Knoxville, TN
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      98 Limited AWD
      Me too, lots of fires to keep up with, and get my "new" truck up to par/maintained to drive it.

      The coolant additives that "make it cool better", they improve heat transfer, just like water cools better than antifreeze. You will like them, I went with the Water Weter long ago because it was common at all stores, and only $6 back then. Now you have to price shop to get to $10 or under, a sale etc. Other brands are still much more, so I stick with what I know.
       
      • Like Like x 1
    20. gmanpaint

      gmanpaint Torsion Bar Free Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      August 1, 2008
      Messages:
      8,798
      Likes Received:
      231
      Trophy Points:
      83
      City, State:
      STL MO
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      94 XLT-95 FX4
      Went at it today. Got the pass side figured out. :)

      Turns out the inner seal was too thick, and wouldn't let the metal ring seat all the way. I swapped it out for one I had on a spare axle, replaced the spindle with a good clean spare, and BAM! Back in business!! Woot!
      The outer seal was the same as the others on my spare spindles, so it stayed. Put that old splined washer back on, and just put the worn side out, with some grease behind it. Installed brand new wheel bearings, with the Ford blackish molly grease.

      Dr side was def getting hot. The grease had went from red to black in a matter of weeks, and the spindle had a little varnish starting on it. So a good clean, and emery polish, then Installed the new wheel bearings. Gave em both the torx procedure, wheels back on, and around the block. Seemed all good, and coasted easily.

      Man I hope this was the cause of that pop pop pop noise, and it's gone. (crosses fingers)

      p.s. I also got the yard mowed this morning. :D

      spindle 1.jpg

      spindle 2.jpg

      spindle 3.jpg
       
      Last edited: July 11, 2016
    21. gmanpaint

      gmanpaint Torsion Bar Free Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      August 1, 2008
      Messages:
      8,798
      Likes Received:
      231
      Trophy Points:
      83
      City, State:
      STL MO
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      94 XLT-95 FX4
      So last Sunday was spent wrenching on the front end. This Sunday is the rear end. SMH

      Over the week, the rear end developed a growl when under acceleration only. I thought great, damn carrier bearing is fubar. Just what I need.

      So today I removed the cover, and swept the valley pan. Got some metal chunks and some shavings galore. :( I sprayed the carrier down with brake cleaner to see whats what. I found many chipped spider gear teeth. I can't see any broken LS plates at all, and the ring gear looks fine. I can't see the pinion gear to see if anything is wrong.

      So.... What to do, what to do? I have an open carrier in a box, but no spare 88 spider gears. Hmm.. Should I buy a lunchbox locker, and swap carriers, and re-use the 4:10's? Or should I save up and buy a new set of 4:56 R&P? I also have a set of front D35 4:56, and a D35 lunchbox locker sitting in a box, so I'm torn what to do, as Pugly is the DD. If I wait for the parts, and take a chance using it with the damaged rear, I could get stranded or worse, the rear locks up, and throws it into a fishtail. What to do....What to do.......??

      20160717_113752.jpg

      20160717_113845.jpg

      20160717_113810.jpg
       
    22. Turdle

      Turdle I bake stuff Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      June 16, 2003
      Messages:
      27,987
      Likes Received:
      305
      Trophy Points:
      113
      City, State:
      Humboldt, KS
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      2000 Mounty
      Lunchbox and 410s.
      daily driver fuel economy and road manners.

      Daily driver.
      You only need one wheeling rig. The locker will help in snow and ice if you keep the front open.
       
    23. gmanpaint

      gmanpaint Torsion Bar Free Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      August 1, 2008
      Messages:
      8,798
      Likes Received:
      231
      Trophy Points:
      83
      City, State:
      STL MO
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      94 XLT-95 FX4
      Thanks Jon,
      Pugly is not the wheeler, but it is the road rig that I want to get me thru harsh situations if needed. Kinda a doomsday prepper thing.

      With that said, and not trying to come across all argumentative at all.....I would get better MPG with the 4:56 then with the 4:10's & 35's. With the manual hubs and 1354, the front locker would only be in play in 4wd & hubs locked, so it wont affect normal DD in the least bit. Now for snow & ice, yes, that would make it a bit harder to control, but if it is real bad out, it stays parked. Way too many others out there on the road that have no biz being on the road in bad conditions that I worry about.

      This is more about time / money & safety for me choosing here. Locker & fluids will cost me under $400 using the old 4:10's. Add the new 4:56's, and it jumps to $1400, as I would have to take it in to a shop. ($500 for gears / master kit / 8.8 crush sleeve eliminator, and another $500 for labor) Plus labor for setting the front gears, another $500, so that's $1900! Ack!!

      Who says these rigs are cheap to have? :crazy:
       
    24. gmanpaint

      gmanpaint Torsion Bar Free Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      August 1, 2008
      Messages:
      8,798
      Likes Received:
      231
      Trophy Points:
      83
      City, State:
      STL MO
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      94 XLT-95 FX4
      Update:

      The Good:
      Ordering a Yukon Spartan locker. Wed morning Pugly is scheduled to go on a lift for the carrier swap, locker install and set the backlash using the same 4:10's.

      The Bad: The growling noise got way worse, and can feel it in the skinny pedal when accelerating. Let off, and it subsides. I now believe the issue is two fold. :(
      I decided it has to be either the bottom end of the old 4.0L or the rebuilt trans. I drained and filtered the engine oil with a paint strainer. I found 2 tiny pcs of metal coming out of the filter. The oil in the pan was clean, with no shavings, particles, chunks, etc... I am about to cut the filter in half and see what's there.

      The unsure: If the filter is metal free, it's on to the trans. Not sure if I should drain the pan, and filter the fluids, or just take it in to the shop that I got it from. My warranty expires in a couple weeks, so I have to figure this out ASAP. The transfer case checked out good.

      The known: 1st to 2nd shifts are sloppy when the throttle is let off when it shifts. It slams a bit. I am not sure if that is the valve body, or what, but might explain the spider gears getting chipped.

      Edit:
      Cut the oil filter can, and found the filter to be perfectly free of metal. Strained the oil out of it, and was clean as can be. I was expecting maybe something from a 253k engine, but nope. I'm pretty happy about that. Rig is going back to the trans shop Tuesday to be checked out. After all I looked at, I'm pretty sure now, this is the culprit.
       
      Last edited: July 22, 2016
    25. ahodges

      ahodges Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      August 31, 2009
      Messages:
      1,281
      Likes Received:
      17
      Trophy Points:
      58
      City, State:
      Millbury, OH
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      1996 XLT - 347 S/C
      Good to hear about the engine! Pugly just loves being worked on and massaged.
       
    26. gmanpaint

      gmanpaint Torsion Bar Free Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      August 1, 2008
      Messages:
      8,798
      Likes Received:
      231
      Trophy Points:
      83
      City, State:
      STL MO
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      94 XLT-95 FX4
      Agreed, that's a big relief.

      Pugly demands constant attention, and if I neglect her for a few days, she figures a way to make me give it. LOL

      The locker won't arrive until Wed eve, so that appointment got moved. I cancelled Tuesdays appointment with the trans shop, as I want the rear axle fixed first, in case that's the only thing wrong.

      For some reason, I do not get notifications from the forum any more. I checked my settings, and all is good there. :dunno:
       

    Share This Page







    We Support Our Troops!