Finally the answers after days of searching: Quote: 1 I had the same problem in my 98 Explorer. The problem is with the display power supply board getting too hot and cracking the poorly solder joints. You have two options if it's not under warranty. One, you can try to re-solder the joints. Two, you can replace the board. I tried to re-solder the board with no luck. I had to replace the board. I will include information at the bottom of this posting on where to buy the board. It took me a long time to find someone who sold the parts. Here are the instructions to re-solder the board. They were posted in a Ford radio news group. To try to re-solder the board.... MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A LOW WATT SOLDERING IRON AND SMALL SOLDER. ~~~ Here's the directions that helped me...Good Luck: By opening up the radio you will find a narrow display power board With in the left side of the radio (faceplate toward you). This board has a metal cover soldered to it, with a toroid (wire wound doughnut) inside on one side, and a bank of surface mount resistors and capacitors on the bottom side. One end of the board (SCR heat sink) is screwed to the heat sink at the back of the radio, the board is secured with 2 metal bend-tabs, and it has a white mini connector on the other end which connects to the faceplate. Remove the board from the radio. On the bottom of the board look for surface mount components R1057/C1071/R1058/C1083/R1064. The colder these resistor/capacitor chipsets get, the brighter the display. I left the car out in the +5f degree weather and the display worked until it warmed up a little. That is how I was able to track it down to these temperature sensitive parts. Freeze-it also helped after I narrowed it down to a few components. Here is the contact information for vendors who sell the replacement board. 2 I have traveled this road. I have a 1998 Ford Explorer with a blank radio display cd\cassette\am\fm. I tried to re-solder the components on the display power supply as suggested on previous posting with no luck. I looked on ebay but didn't see anything worth buying. I again tried to re-solder the board...still no luck. So this is what I have learned. If you can't fix it with the re-solder posting, or don't want to try it, you will need to replace the display power supply. Most radio shops I called said they only do component level repairs starting at $100.00. Then I found a few shops that have the circuit boards for sell. The board comes in a 3 board set, a new power supply board and two new tuner type boards, sold as a "compound set". Here are the shops I found that have it. Speed-O-Tach, Inc. they sell the 3 boards for 73.95 + shipping (5.00 ish) Auto Radio & Electronics PART NUMBER HWM0043 Corporate Office 4090 Pike Lane Concord, CA 94520-1227 Toll Free: 1-800-442-4491 Tel: 925-691-4090 Fax: 925-691-4101 or speedometerservice.com 3 boards cost is 82.82 6.75 shipping Phone number 1-800-332-1827 Georgia Watts 1-800-241-2385 National Watts I found other sites but the price jumped to 215.00! The board is very easy to swap. Pull the radio out, take to 2 black screws off the side of the face plate (1 on each side. Face the back of the radio, now remove the screw in the top right corner. Pop the front and top cover off the radio. Unplug the blue cable that leads from the display to the display power supply. There are 2 tabs that hold the power supply in. One is next to where the blue cable plugs into the power supply. To find the other tab, look inside the half circle on the tin heat shield. The board is painted white where the tabs are. Now straighten the tabs with a screw driver. Pull straight up on the tin heat shield. Now you have it out swap it with the new one and put it all back together. 3 (*** this helped me ***) I have a '00 that just developed the blank display syndrome. From all these good inputs, locating the display power supply (the small board mounted to the left side of the CD chassis and connected to the display by a small cable consisting of blue insulated wires) was not much of a problem. Examination of this board from the bottom side showed some heating and with a 5X jewelers loop a person could see broken solder joints. Soldering these joints, especially those associated with the surface mounted components took very a sharp soldering iron (taking a standard Radio Shack type, 25W and sharpening the point so that taper starts about 3/8" to 1/2" from the tip worked very well). After re-flowing, and adding solder in some cases the display works as new. Now then for the fix: Obviously the display power supply is running at a high enough temperature to damage the solder joints but not so high as to damage the components. Solder will remain structurally sound to about 230 degrees F. any substantial increased temperature will weeken the joints allowing the mass of the component, thermal expansions and contractions and residual stress from the original soldering event to tear the joint apart. Or in other words the newly soldered board will fail in a month, 6 months, or maybe if your lucky several years if steps are not taken to cool the board. At www.pricewatch.com several vendors advertise fans as small as 1" square. With file a 1" square fan will fit at an angle from back to front over the front of the power supply board. Using a little 5 minute epoxy the fan can be secured to the chassis and connecting the fan power between the ignition on power (at the radio connector) and ground (the chassis) will cause the fan to run any time the ignition is turned on. The drawback to this fan is, it can be heard when the ignition on and the engine not running.