Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Performance Upgrades - Maintenance - Modifications - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street Trucks. Covering the Explorer, ST, Sport, Lincoln Aviator, Sport Trac, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Aerostar. Featuring H.I. - Human Intelligence.
is there a magical fluid to use or just standard 80w90? i want to change the fluid in the rear end since its probably original.
Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year. Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,. Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!.
If I remember right, about a quart and a half. Warning! Be sure you can remove the fill plug before you drain the rear end. I saw this posted on here before, thought it good advice.
If I remember right, about a quart and a half. Warning! Be sure you can remove the fill plug before you drain the rear end. I saw this posted on here before, thought it good advice.
My limited slip asks specifically for 75W140 synthetic.
I think is a good ideea anyway - thinner at cold starts, thicker at high operating temperatures, almost same viscosity at normal temperatures.
In the owner's manual I have, in the footnotes, it says 75W/140 for V8, and 80W/90 in the 4.0 liter. I just use LUCAS 75W/90 for the TractionLok rear in my 4.0. Same thing up front. Synthetic.
Jack up each side of the axle, one at a time to get all of the fluid out of the axle tubes.
This is optional , but when the cover is off, give it a nice coat of paint. I brought black automotive spray paint for mine. But anything in your garage should work.
Jack up each side of the axle, one at a time to get all of the fluid out of the axle tubes.
This is optional , but when the cover is off, give it a nice coat of paint. I brought black automotive spray paint for mine. But anything in your garage should work.
if i am reading it right, it takes synthetic fluid AND the modifier. correct?
edit: it also says lubricated for life. define "life" i bought this truck with 166k miles on it. i think the "life" of the oil is about over. opinions?
if i am reading it right, it takes synthetic fluid AND the modifier. correct?
edit: it also says lubricated for life. define "life" i bought this truck with 166k miles on it. i think the "life" of the oil is about over. opinions?
edit: it also says lubricated for life. define "life" i bought this truck with 166k miles on it. i think the "life" of the oil is about over. opinions?
Bringing this thread back to life rather than start from scratch. I have a 2003 limited 4.6 with AWD. My axle code is D4 (limited slip 3.73).
I need to change the oil in my rear differential, and I have some specific questions:
1. how much (volume) 75w140 should I purchase, and what is the capacity? I plan to jack the vehicle at angles to drain the axles as well (per earlier comments in this thread). 2. how much (volume) friction modifier goes into the rear dif? 3. if I remove the cover, is there a gasket replacement part, or am I using RTV? 4. Prefered brands for 75w140 and friction modifier?
The answer to "why only the rear dif?" is that I did the front and t case a while back, but didn't have a big square drive (or the time) for the plug in the rear until recently.
It should take under three quarts for the rear, under two in front. There are gasket choices for the back, but the nice one is over $22, most people use RTV. Buy synthetic only, and the stuff in store is high compared to the best(Amsoil) which is about $13 a quart. You have to source it by eBay etc, or directly with a $15 membership to have it drop shipped to you. Ford's version is over $20 a quart, too much and Severe Gear is better.
Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year. Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,. Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!.
Agree. ALL fluid capacities for your vehicle are listed in the owners manual. Regarding LS friction modifier, most seem to use and get the best results with Motorcraft XL-3. One four ounce bottle is usually adequate to prevent chatter. (Refill capacities pages 260-264). http://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/catalog/owner_guides/03expog5e.pdf
Very interesting gear oil study brought to you by Amsoil and supposedly done by an independent test lab. Although the testing was done using 75W-90, would think 75W-140 would net similar results. Must say I agree with Don above. After reading the test results and doing some research, Amsoil SG Gear Lube pricing is comparable or less than buying off the shelf at your local AP or department store. http://www.goodsenseoil.com/G2457-GearOilWhitePaper.pdf
