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Rear Sway Bar End Link Length

Post number 28 has been selected as best answered.

A few small fitment issues, but it's finished. Added 1" of stacked M12 washers and longer grade 8.8 bolts for each side to compensate for the Ranger links smaller offset. The tailpipe is cozied about .25" away from the tailpipe, but doesn't make contact hitting bumps. Torched out the rubber bushings and replaced them with a $10 end link repair kit from NAPA. Are RAMCOA bushings poly? Distance from the center sway bar frame bushing and end link bolt centers are exactly the same at 13 5/8". Want to thank Anime for his guidance and assistance. All done! :thumbsup:

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The company that makes these is Ramcoa. This company sells to parts suppliers like TRW, Perfect Circle etc etc. They make automotive bushings SOLELY in URETHANE. Colors come in RED, BLUE, BLACK...possibly other but have not found yet.

Looks like Ramcoa makes the urethane bushings for Moog. If they're really hard or any color other than black, they are likely urethane. I do prefer Energy Suspension bushings though as their black ones are impregnated with graphite to minimize squeaks, and their durometer is generally what you want for street use.

I don't like the use of so many washers to space out the link from the frame, I'd rather heat up the shaft and angle both bends a little more until it fits correct. I don't think it'll snap Grade 8.8 bolts, but you do risk bending/tweaking the frame bracket that the bolt goes into, those aren't all that strong.

If this makes the links too short and raises up the ends from level too much, maybe bending the Explorer brackets will give the best of both worlds, fit without washers and the correct length for the ends to sit about level.
 






The NAPA bushings are black and hard, unlike Moog's thermoplastic rubber. Wasn't too concerned about the bolts or stacking the washers, more the U-nut clips go holding the bolt in the frame. Frame seems strong enough. Maybe through bolting with a large backing plate and nut? Rather than bend the links, would prefer shortening the solid shaft Moog's (K80139) I was using.
 






This is the problem with making a purchase based on price alone. Amazon often drop ships and splits shipments from vendors. The
first pic is what's shown on their site. Second is the comparison of two Moog K80101 end links received in identical boxes. I'm certain
this partially contributed to my offset issue. Never had them side by side since they arrived four days apart. Also torched the pressed in
bushings so no return. USPS Flat Rate would also exceed the $9 price.

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Amazon accepts returns for defective items or items not as described, and they eat the shipping.

I would use this option and have them send a replacement. (They offer you the option of a refund, or a replacement, the replacement
is less hassle since that shows you really want the item, not just your money back) The link that isn't bent correctly is clearly shorter as well.

You didn't get what you ordered, I would send it back, either without the bushings, or with new rubber bushings pressed in if you want.

You could try dealing with Moog directly as well, but I'm pretty sure they'd tell you to handle it though the place you bought their product from.
 






Anime, thanks for seeing me through this. What's your opinion on shortening the Moog K80139 links I was using before? I have an excellent custom exhaust shop that could weld and sleeve them if necessary. The stock ST links are hollow just comparing the weight of them to the Moog's. Found this pic in link below:

rear sway bar vs. diff cover
 






Like I said before, I think the solid links are probably slightly better in some ways, so I would suggest keeping the Ranger links (but still exchanging the defective one) if they are the right length and the sway bar ends are either level or just above level.

I am guessing that when you get another Ranger link with the correct bend it will fit a lot better without so many washers.

I don't really like the idea of cutting a link then shortening it in the middle by welding and/or sleeving, since that creates a stress point that could break. If I were to shorten it I would do so at the ends, and keep the welding in the same spot as the original, on the eyelets. Before that I would probably get info on the F250 links to see if those are a possibility first.

However I think the Ranger links seem to be the best option, both for function and cost. I think as a solid link they will give you what you want in terms of increased performance, and you will save a lot of money over paying someone to weld (which usually isn't cheap, sometimes incredibly expensive per weld), and I also think they will be safer. The peace of mind of not being terribly concerned that your end links could break if you take a quick turn is worth a lot.

I would exhange the link through amazon, put on the Ranger links, then go from there.
 






F250/350 SD 4WD rear end links (Moog K80268) are as perfect a fit as I could imagine. Offset and length seem perfect for ST's lowered 3 inches or 1995-01 Explorers lowered 1.5 to 2 inches. Remove all four of the stud bushings and use NAPA MRC18339, NCP2651543, or Moog K80085 thermoplastic rubber kits. I recently upgraded to the Energy Suspension 4.5153 polyurethane kit that includes 1.25" metal inner sleeves that are the correct length and difficult to find separately. Frame bushings are also included that are used with stock 19mm rear sway bars. Unlike hollow OEM end links these are solid rods and can be bent for adjustments if required, and tailpipe clearance is no longer an issue. A much stronger option to cutting and welding sleeves on the stock end links, and probably cheaper in the long run. Second pic is stock Sport Trac (K80788) top and stock 1995-01 Explorer (K80139) bottom.

Top K80788 Sport Trac- Center K80268 F250/350 SD 4WD - Bottom K80101 Ranger
K80101-80139-80788.jpg

Top K80788 / Bottom K80139
K80788K80139.jpg
 






Yep, those are perfect.

How'd you get F250 links so fast?
 






CarQuest (Advance) had them locally. Raybestos Pro Grade #545-1464 were the same price as Amazon. Strange the letters and numbers stamped on the Raybestos PG are very similar to Moog's. Got really lucky how precisely they fit, no binding and perfectly level with the ground. :)
 






Hi guys, I know this is an older thread, but I wanted to add to the knowledge base concerning rear sway bars on my particular application (the 363 1998 Explorer Sport project).

I was finally able to get in an Addco #633 1" rear sway bar after over a 4 month backorder; and, you guys are correct that Addco does away with all the intricate little bends that the factory bar has. Though they claim that the less bends, the stiffer the bar (which is probably true), the problem is that all those little bends are nice to have for little things like clearing the shocks and exhaust system (especially with a 3.5" diameter single exhaust pipe and Bilstein shocks, which may be a slightly larger diameter than stock).
IMG_2970.jpg

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The Addco directions are kind of fuzzy as to whether the center bend goes towards the top or the bottom as you bolt it to the axle; the engineering drawing shows it with the bend at the rear axle cover oriented towards the top (which necessitates trimming the spare tire bracket - no biggie with a Sawzall). Another peculiarity that seems to reinforce the top-facing orientation is that the middle bend at the inspection cover is offset about an inch, which would suggest the bar is bent with the intent of it being installed per the engineering drawing with the bend facing up. There is still enough clearance for the "pumpkin" either way, but if you stare at it long enough you realize it is non-symmetrical, made even more so by the fact that these Explorers have the engine and axle carriers offset to the passenger side. Despite this, I finally realized (after trimming the spare tire bracket) that I wanted to see the rear sway bar from behind, so I turned it to more closely mimic the factory sway bar location. After all, no matter which way you turn the bar, the clearance and fitment issue lies with the width between the arms that extend towards the rear (which want to hit the shocks); and, since there is no extra horizontal bends in the arms themselves once they depart from their 90 degree bend at the axle, the height distance between the end link brackets does not change with orientation.

I owe member swshawaii an eternal debt of gratitude for posting the pictures and info concerning the Moog "K80268 F250/350 SD 4WD" part number and picture, as well as the "Energy Suspension 4.5153 polyurethane kit" info; with the lack of bends in the Addco bar, you have to use these shorter end links to pull the sway bar ends up enough to clear the shocks (even with the stock ride height, the factory end links are too long with the Addco bar). The Energy Suspension kit comes with extra washers, 2-3 on each side of which will be needed to take up the space between where the end links hang "at rest" and the width of the bar; Ideally, this necessitates two new 12mm x 1.75 pitch bolts which need to be 5-10mm longer than the stock bolts that fasten between the holes at the bar arms and the end links, so the new bolts should probably be 70-75 mm long.

Another thing that I noticed from Addco's engineering drawing for the #633 bar is that there is a slight difference in height between the two sides:

Addco_633_Sway_Bar.PNG


Evidently, there is a difference in the height of the mounting holes at the vehicle frame, since the end links for either side have the same part number; once you bolt the end links to the car, the holes lined up perfectly.

One other picture I will add: I managed to find the grease we used on the center links way back in the day; it may have been Addco, but there were other sway bar manufacturers that we sourced back then as well (Quickor Engineering and Racer Walsh come to mind). Anyhow, some or all of them would include in their sway bar packages a small dollop of sea-green polyurethane lubricant that had the consistency of Wrigley's chewing gum on hot Georgia asphalt (if you've ever stepped in it, you know what I mean). Polyurethane being what it is, it is bad about squeaking over time as the lubricant washes out with street use - except this stuff. It took me years of deep-diving on the internet to find it, but it has finally been identified as "Aqua Shield":
Aqua_Shield_Lube.jpg


In closing, I've been very pleased so far with the ride and handling of the upgrade. I also went with Energy Suspension's kit for the polyurethane bushings on the big front bar as well, and the results remind me exactly how the cars we upgraded in the 1970's and early 1980's tended to feel like. Of course, back then we were using 60 series radials with their much larger sidewalls, so the tires themselves soaked up a lot of the smaller road irregularities. In the case of my project and the 275-60R15 Hankook tires and the car's relatively heavy weight, it kind of reminds me of my high-school friend's old 1970 Cutlass 442 that we did all those years ago in the way it drives. The car tracks much straighter at freeway speeds without paying the penalty of it trying to knock your teeth out on surface streets. Like all new torsion/sway bars, it will soften some as it breaks in, but even then it will be miles beyond the puny 19mm bar that it came with; you might even say that, at my age, the thicker bar has helped to restore my feelings of street inadequacy. . .as they say, "Size Does Matter"!
 












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