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Regearing the front differential - possible solution

Ronin8002

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2008 XLT Ironman
Information on regearing the axles

So I went and did this. Decided on a 4.11 gear ratio.

Here are the parts I used with part numbers:

Yukon Gear 4.11 Dana 30, part number YG D30-411
Yukon Gear 4.11 Ford 8.8, part number YG F8.8-411
Yukon Gear Master Kit, Ford 8.8 31 Spline, part number YK F8.8-IRS-SUV
Yukon Gear Master Kit, Dana 30 Super (Ford), part number YK D30-SUP-FORD


If you don't go with Yukons, just look for an 8.8 ring and pinion/master kit for the rear and that will be good. For the front you need Dana 30 standard rotation ring and pinion. For the master kit I am not sure but I think it has to be able to work for a Ford Super 30.

Gears, master kits, and setup of the gears cost about $1500 for me. You can remove and install the diffs into the truck yourself to save some money (what I did), as they had to be removed to mess with the gears.

EDIT: Another thing...if you are starting with 3.55 diffs then you'll need to swap to a 3.73 carrier also when you regear. I regeared a set of 3.73 front and rear diffs that I got from the salvage yard so I didn't have to swap carriers.



Original Post:

I have been looking to go to 4.10's and adding Detroit Truetracs front and rear.

After researching the crap out of this and consulting with EricAutoPart, I think there is finally an answer to the issues/lack of info with regearing the front diffs on the 3rd Gens.


Here's what Eric told me in an email:

"I called my supplier. I was told if you switch from a crush collar style to a preload shim setup you can use the stuff I've got. Here's what I've got..

D30 4.10 (Yukon) - 156.00
D30 Master kit - 120.65
D30 True Trac - 439.00

If you go w/o the true trac and stay w/ the open front diff you'll have to switch your carrier over but you can save the spider gears. The case is 54.00"

I won't be doing this myself for a little while but I thought I'd post this up for anyone else who's interested in regearing.
 



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Looks like good info. I'll make this a sticky.
 






Oh, and I also emailed Eaton about the rear....they confirmed that the Truetrac will work in the 8.8 31 spline IRS with circlips:

Dear Mr. xxxxxx,

Thank you for the interest in Eaton differentials. The Truetrac is designed to accept both c-clips and sir-clips. You will have no issues.

Regards,

Barney Gwozdz
Customer Support
Technical Specialist
Phone# (248)226-6234
Fax# (248)226-6740



Now I just have to save up the money so I can do this ;)
 






I have been looking to go to 4.10's and adding Detroit Truetracs front and rear.

After researching the crap out of this and consulting with EricAutoPart, I think there is finally an answer to the issues/lack of info with regearing the front diffs on the 3rd Gens.


Here's what Eric told me in an email:

I called my supplier. I was told if you switch from a crush collar style to a preload shim setup you can use the stuff I've got. Here's what I've got..

D30 4.10 (Yukon) - 156.00
D30 Master kit - 120.65
D30 True Trac - 439.00

If you go w/o the true trac and stay w/ the open front diff you'll have to switch your carrier over but you can save the spider gears. The case is 54.00


I won't be doing this myself for a little while but I thought I'd post this up for anyone else who's interested in regearing.

Can you explain a little bit more about what you got? Thinking about a gear change myself.
 






I would contact EricAutoPart.

After adding up all the costs I found that it was going to be out of my budget (gearing is expensive no matter what year explorer it is!).

What I ended up doing was buying a low-mileage used set of 3.73 front and rear diffs that I'm going to swap in. No it's not a huge change, but it will help a lot to compensate for the 265/75/16's I put on....pretty much puts me back to the stock effective gearing.

If I regear my stock ones later I'll def post it up.
 






What did the diffs you got come out of? Was told that taller tires might cause the tranny to run hot and the converter to flash. I don't want to lose the tranny again.
 






I think they came out of a 2005 mountaineer. I don't think you have a lot to worry about with the tranny as long as you stay with 265s or 285s. I could tell only a slight difference in acceleration when I put my 265s on. I have a trans temp guage so if I see anything weird I'll let you know. Most of the time I have seen temps from 150-170...which is the same as I had with stock wheels.
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So if am I reading that correctly, the 8.8 TrueTrac will fit both the solid axel and IRS rearends? Same part number? If so that makes buying one pretty easy. Thanks for the info.
 
























Hard to say, not many details in that link. I would go to www.ringpinion.com. That's where I got mine from. I called them and ordered over the phone since I wasn't sure on all the part numbers. They were a HUGE help in getting me everything I needed.
 






Oh, and here are the parts I bought:

Yukon Gear 4.11 Dana 30, part number YG D30-411
Yukon Gear 4.11 Ford 8.8, part number YG F8.8-411
Yukon Gear Master Kit, Ford 8.8 31 Spline, part number YK F8.8-IRS-SUV
Yukon Gear Master Kit, Dana 30 Super (Ford), part number YK D30-SUP-FORD
 






dang, thats alot of parts...
Bout how much that run you? ($)
And did u do the install?
 






Yeah, I've learned there's more to this re-gearing stuff than just buying gears and throwing them in there lol. The master kits have new bearings and seals for the axles...might as well make everything like new cause I don't want to fix something else on these once they're in the truck.

The master kits were about 200 apiece. Gearsets were about 240 for the front and 210 for the rear. So about 850. That is at the high end...there are less expensive gearsets and master kits that you could use too. Shopping around might help with cost, too ( you could easily get the 8.8 stuff from somewhere else), but I just went with a place that knew what I needed for sure. I was worried about buying the wrong thing for the front.

I had picked out a place to install it, but BoominXplorer offered to do mine for me for a really really good price so I am going to wait till he's available. Especially since most places I found charge 300 and up, per axle, to install them...and that's with the axles out of the truck already.
 






yeah, man that does sound kind of pricey, but i really would like to get my X back to regular driving with my 285's.

That sucks about the install. cost wise. sounds like you got a good deal thou from that member.
well i appriciate your help,
this sounds like a summer project for me.

when you get yours done deff post up here.
 






Yep, re-gearing ain't cheap. Those parts/install prices you posted sound pretty ballpark based on my experience.
 






I got a quote down here for an arb air locker (I have 3.73 l.s.d.), bugger all change from $2000.00 and that's just the rear. (for a ranger because they didn't have an explorer price on their database). Nearly fell off my bar stool. I saw that true trac do the front (dana 30) and rear (ford 8.8) for about $800 (not including shipping) I might look at that option abit later, any thoughts or alternatives to those?
 






Just get a lunchbox locker for the rear, cheap and easy backyard mechanic install. Not sure about them working with the IRS, but I would assume they would. Save the high dollar selectable locker for the front. I can't even tell that I have a locker driving on the street. And just being locked in the rear makes a huge difference in off road performance. As for the front, it would be nice, but IMO, by the time that a front locker becomes a necessity that can't be overcome by skillful driving and picking good lines, you are pretty much beyond the capability of the stock IFS and its time for an SAS.

Besides, the challenge is what its all about. Anyone can go drop $50k on a badass rock rod and make things look easy, but when you do stuff in an X with only 1 locker, its cause YOU'RE the badass.
 



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Yes, a lunchbox will work in the IRS 8.8. Some mods to the locker are required since the IRS axles are held in with circlips, not C-clips, and so the ends of the IRS axles are larger in diameter.

I know of only 2 people who have installed an Aussie locker in their 3rd gen, but both were very happy with it. One of them is Bigone65 on this forum...you only need to watch his offroading videos to see how well it works. I'll post a write up when I install mine...it'll be when I install my new, re-geared diffs.

TrueTracs are also an option..for the 3rd gen you would use a Dana 30 front and an 8.8 rear model. TrueTracs don't give 50/50 split all the time between the two wheels in slick conditions, that can be a good or bad thing depending on how you look at it and/or how you use your truck.
 






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