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Reliant Scimitar / A4LDe

Scimitar

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Joined
March 29, 2016
Messages
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City, State
Gloucester UK
Year, Model & Trim Level
Reliant Scimitar 1981
I couldn't find a suitable place for my post, so if I have chosen wrongly, please move it to an appropriate place!

As per my intro post:

I run a Reliant Scimitar GTC which has a Cologne 2.8 with a Weber, running into an A4LD gearbox. Original fitment is a Ford C3 but that was replaced before I bought it with a first generation A4LD with mechanical kickdown. That box had a serious coolant leak which sprayed its transmission oil all over the front of the caravan I was towing (trailer). It got overheated and although flushed and refilled ended up noisy and poor quality changes. The engine (or box) had developed a pronounced knock too, which although sounding like big end knock, got no worse. As I had a spare engine and an A4LDe, I carried out a heart transplant over the Easter break.....

All went reasonably well although when refilling the fluid, somehow I ended up with a couple of pints all over the floor under the car. No evidence of any leaks and the sump exterior was dry, so that will remain a mystery!

This gearbox is the next model along with a solenoid kickdown, but mechanical 3-4 shift. I have installed a WOT switch, but need to make up an ECU to provide the pull and hold signals to it. That isn't so important at the moment.

The problem I have concerns TCC lockup. I use a manual switch as the car has no ECU (until I built one with an Arduino!) and it worked fine with the previous gearbox. On this one, there is no response from the TC clutch when activated. I have checked the resistance of the TCC solenoid coil and also that it is pulling about the right current when engaged. There is no click that I can hear from the sump when engaging the solenoid with a test feed.
So it seems that something may be seized or broken. My guess is that the piston is seized which means dropping the sump again, which is not good news. Main questions I suppose are:

a) Whether anyone has a marvellous suggestion here and if not,
b) Do I have to drop the valve body to investigate the issue?
c) Can I do all this from underneath without pulling the gearbox again?
d) Anything I need to know please?


As an aside, I would be interested in observations about how the kickdown solenoid works. I know that there is a delay of 500mS before the pull coil energises, but how long does it stay energised before handing over to the hold coil? I take it that the hold coil then drops out when the WOT switch opens?
 












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