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How to: Replace Front Blend Door Actuator in 3rd Gen Ex.

Discussion in 'Stock 2002 - 2005 Explorers' started by BigRondo, October 6, 2010.

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    1. BigRondo

      BigRondo USMC 1371 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      This is my how to for replacing the blend door actuator on the 3rd Gen Ex. The Blend Door Actuator controls the hot/cold temperature in the vehicle, not where the air is blowing from or fresh air/recirculated air. While researching this issue I found several discussions, but no definitive how to. I used this post as a guide: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2378135&postcount=133. Even with this excellent post by ColdnFrosty, I was “flying blind”. That has lead us to this write up.

      I purchased the Blend Door Actuator from my Ford Dealer. Cost was $70.00.

      I recommend purchasing it at the dealer as others have had problems with the ones purchased at auto parts stores.

      VIN is required to ensure you get the proper part.


      This procedure involves cutting the dash. The part of the dash I cut out is not visible with the center console back in the Ex. Some have replaced the actuator without cutting the dash. Whether or not you cut the dash is a decision you will have to make. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE OR UNWANTED MODIFICATIONS YOU DO TO YOUR VEHICLE. YOU ASSUME ALL RESPONSIBILITY FOR CUTTING YOUR DASHBOARD. ATTEMPT THIS INSTALL AT YOUR OWN RISK.

      Be Sure To Check Out My Other Write-Ups:

      How To: Remove/Replace 3rd Gen Door Panel

      How To: Install Signal Mirrors On 3rd Gen Ex

      How To: Restore Faded, Yellowing Headlights

      How To: Replace Multifunction Switch in 3rd Gen Ex

      How To: Paint Rear Pillar Trim

      How To: Replace 3rd Gen Ambient Air Temperature Sensor

      How To: Test a Relay

      How To: Remove/Replace 3rd Gen Center Console


      Tools Required:

      1. 7MM Socket
      2. 8MM Socket
      3. 10MM Socket
      4. 10MM Deep Socket
      5. Socket Driver Handle
      6. Ratchet
      7. Extension
      8. 8MM Box-End Wrench
      9. Utility Knife
      10. Large Slotted Screwdriver
      11. Butter Knife of Putty Knife

      [​IMG]

      Parts Required:

      1. Blend Door Actuator

      [​IMG]
      [​IMG]

      2. Electrical Tape

      [​IMG]

      Blend Door Actuator Replacement Detailed Instructions:

      1. Remove Center Console Upper Half

      1.a. Remove rubber mat

      [​IMG]

      1.b. Remove screw under mat – 7MM socket required

      [​IMG]

      1.c. Pry from rear and pull out console upper half

      [​IMG]

      1.d. Disconnect front power point connector & extra power source connector (Cigarette Lighter?)

      [​IMG]

      1.e. View with upper half removed

      [​IMG]

      2. Remove Center Console Lower Half

      2.a. Disconnect rear power point connector

      [​IMG]

      2.b. Pop off rear power point connector with screwdriver – be careful not to damage connector

      [​IMG]

      2.c. Pop off harness with screwdriver – be careful not to damage any wires

      [​IMG]

      2.d. Remove 2 front screws – 8MM socket required

      [​IMG]

      2.e. Remove 2 duct screws – 8MM socket required

      [​IMG]

      2.f. 4 top screws remain in place

      [​IMG]

      2.g. Remove passenger side rear screw cover – butter knife or putty knife required

      [​IMG]

      2.h. Remove passenger side rear screw – 8MM socket required

      [​IMG]

      2.i. Remove driver side rear screw cover – butter knife or putty knife required

      [​IMG]

      2.l. Remove driver side rear screw – 8MM socket required

      [​IMG]

      2.j. Pull passenger side front of console away from center and toward door to disengage velcro

      [​IMG]

      2.k. Pull driver side front of console away from center and toward door to disengage velcro

      [​IMG]

      2.l. Lift console lower half up and out of vehicle

      [​IMG]

      3. Remove Lower Dash Panel

      3.a. Remove 2 bottom screws – 7MM socket required

      [​IMG]

      3.b. Pull from top

      [​IMG]

      3.c. Clip may come off - No worries it can be put back when panel is reinstalled

      [​IMG]

      3.d. View with panel removed

      [​IMG]

      4. Remove Dashboard Brace

      4.a. View of dashboard brace

      [​IMG]

      4.a. Remove top screws – 10MM socket required

      [​IMG]

      4.b. Remove bottom nuts – 10MM deep socket required - Pull carpet back to reveal bottom nuts

      [​IMG]

      4.c. View with brace removed

      [​IMG]

      5. Remove Lower Heater Duct

      5.a. Pop off harness with screwdriver – be careful not to damage any wires

      [​IMG]

      5.b. Remove 2 screws – 8MM socket required

      [​IMG]

      5.c. Wiggle duct out – it seems like it won’t come out but it will – pull front of it down

      [​IMG]

      6. Remove Blend Door Actuator

      6.a. Locate top screw - Arrow indicates area to look for top screw

      [​IMG]

      6.b. View of top screw

      [​IMG]

      6.c. Remove top screw – 8MM socket & 6” extension required - Picture shows how to access top screw

      [​IMG]

      6.d. Locate bottom rear screw - Arrow indicates area to look for bottom rear screw

      [​IMG]

      6.e. View of rear screw

      [​IMG]

      6.f. Remove rear screw – 8MM box-end wrench required - Ratcheting box-end wrench will be easier but not required

      [​IMG]

      6.g.1. Locate bottom front screw - Arrow indicates area to look for bottom front screw

      [​IMG]

      6.g.2. Locate bottom front screw - Red dot indicates approximate area of bottom front screw

      [​IMG]

      6.h. View of bottom front screw

      [​IMG]

      The following steps involve cutting the dash. Some have removed the old actuator and replaced the new one without cutting the dash. I recommend trying without cutting the dash and only cut the dash if the actuator cannot be removed and replaced with the dash intact.

      6.i. Cut dash – Utility knife required – WARNING ATTEMPT AT YOUR OWN RISK - Arrows indicate area of dash to be cut

      [​IMG]

      6.j. View of cut dash with foam removed - Cut vinyl then remove foam with utility knife

      [​IMG]

      6.k. Remove back plastic - Cut remaining plastic with utility knife - Red arrows indicate area to be cut - White arrow indicates bottom of Blend Door Actuator

      [​IMG]

      6.l. View of cut dash to reveal bottom front screw

      [​IMG]

      6.m. Remove bottom front screw – 8MM box-end wrench required - Ratcheting box-end wrench will be easier but not required

      [​IMG]

      6.n. Wiggle out the blend door actuator - Red arrow indicates shaft - White arrows indicate direction to pull first: away from heater box - Yellow arrow indicates direction to wiggle Blend Door Actuator out

      [​IMG]

      6.o. Turn actuator so shaft it facing upward

      [​IMG]

      6.p. Disconnect blend door actuator - Arrow indicates tab to be press to release connector

      [​IMG]

      7. Install New Blend Door Actuator

      7.a. Connect actuator

      [​IMG]

      7.b. Turn ignition key to run position

      7.c. Rotate temp selector from cold to hot to verify operation of actuator – shaft should be moving

      [​IMG]

      7.d. Rotate temp from hot to cold setting – shaft should be moving – leave temp set to cold

      [​IMG]

      7.e. Wait for shaft to stop moving! Then turn ignition key to off and remove key - LEAVE TEMP SET TO COLD

      7.f. Wiggle actuator into position – this takes some patience – be careful not to damage shaft - Shaft is keyed and will only go in one way - DO NOT FORCE SHAFT - Red arrows indicate direction to wiggle in Blend Door Actuator - White arrow indicates where shaft is inserted

      [​IMG]

      7.g. Install bottom front screw – 8MM box-end wrench required – Ratcheting box-end wrench will be easier but not required - start threading with fingers then use wrench – DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN

      [​IMG]

      7.h. Install bottom rear screw – 8MM box-end wrench required – Ratcheting box-end wrench will be easier but not required - start threading screw with fingers then use wrench – DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN

      [​IMG]

      7.i. Install top screw – 8MM socket & 6” extension required

      [​IMG]

      7.j. Tape screw to socket

      [​IMG]

      7.k. Start threading screw

      [​IMG]

      7.l. Pull extension out

      [​IMG]

      7.m. Reach up and remove socket - Arrows indicate where to reach up to remove socket from screw

      [​IMG]

      7.n. Remove tape and replace socket

      [​IMG]

      7.o. Tighten top screw – DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN

      [​IMG]

      8. Test Blend Door Actuator

      8.a. Start vehicle and let it reach normal operating temp

      [​IMG]

      8.b. Set selector to vent (engine must be running since this operates on vacuum)

      [​IMG]

      8.c. Temp setting should be on cold

      [​IMG]

      8.d. Turn fan on

      [​IMG]

      8.e. Test temp of airflow – it should be cold

      [​IMG]

      8.f. Rotate temp setting all the way to hot

      [​IMG]

      8.g. Test temp of airflow – it should be hot

      [​IMG]

      8.h. Nice job! You are now ready for winter

      8.i. Turn vehicle off

      9. Reinstall Lower Heater Duct

      9.a. Wiggle duct into place - Arrows indicate position to wiggle in duct

      [​IMG]

      9.b. Install 2 screws – 8MM socket required

      [​IMG]

      9.c. Push harness into place

      [​IMG]

      10. Reinstall Dashboard Brace

      10.a. Install 2 bottom nuts – 10MM deep socket required - Pull carpet back for access

      [​IMG]

      10.b. Install 2 top screws – 10MM socket required

      [​IMG]

      10.c. View with brace reinstalled

      [​IMG]

      11. Reinstall Lower Dash Panel

      11.a. Set panel in place and push in top section

      [​IMG]

      11.b. If clip fell off, then replace clip

      [​IMG]

      11.c. Install 2 bottom screws – 7MM socket required

      [​IMG]

      12. Reinstall Center Console Lower Half

      12.a. Set console lower half back into place

      [​IMG]

      12.b. Push console forward to close gap in lower duct

      [​IMG]

      12.c. While pushing console forward, Install passenger side rear screw – 8MM socket required

      [​IMG]

      12.d. Replace passenger side screw cover

      [​IMG]

      12.e. While pushing console forward, Install driver side rear screw – 8MM socket required

      [​IMG]

      12.f. Replace driver side rear screw cover

      [​IMG]

      12.g. Install 2 duct screws – 8MM socket required

      [​IMG]

      12.h. Install 2 front screws – 8MM socket required

      [​IMG]

      12.i. Push passenger side front of console toward center to engage Velcro

      [​IMG]

      12.j. Push driver side front of console toward center to engage Velcro

      [​IMG]

      12.k. Push harness back into place

      [​IMG]

      12.l. Push rear power point connector back into place

      [​IMG]

      12.m. Connect rear power point

      [​IMG]

      13. Reinstall Center Console Upper Half

      13.a. Connect extra power source & front power point

      [​IMG]

      13.b. Set console lower half back into position and push downward to snap into place

      [​IMG]

      13.c. Install screw – 7MM socket required

      [​IMG]

      13.d. Replace rubber matt

      [​IMG]

      14. Blend Door Actuator Replacement is Complete!

      14.a. View of cut dash with console installed - Arrows indicate area that was cut

      [​IMG]

      14.b. You saved a bunch of cash

      [​IMG]

      14.c. Grab a cold one

      [​IMG]

      14.d. Enjoy the winter

      [​IMG]

      :wavey: Thanks for looking :biggthump
       
      Last edited by a moderator: October 14, 2013
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    3. Hitchhikingmike

      Hitchhikingmike Well-Known Member

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      Good work. Glad you fixed your problem and shared the knowledge. Should be made a sticky.
       
    4. rumpledoll

      rumpledoll Active Member

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      That is one of THE best writeups and howto! Kudos!

      Rumple
       
    5. Joe Dirt

      Joe Dirt Explorer Addict

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      I agree- incredible writeup...













      ...but did you clean that carpet before you put your console back in? :D
       
    6. mhamric

      mhamric New Member

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      Awesome write up! I'm saving this one just in case I ever have to do it.
       
    7. my1zamboni

      my1zamboni Member

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      First off Big Rondo great write up. Thanks for taking the time to do this.
      Second thanks to everyone on this forum, the money you have saved me, thanks to this forum I have fixed the broken wires in the driver’s door, an air bag sensor in the front bumper (dirty contacts so free fix), a vacuum line. My next 2 projects are from wheel bearings (entire hub seems easiest) and this blend door thing.
      Now my question, how do I know if it is the door actuator or the blend door itself?
      I have a banging noise when I turn the heat on or off that goes away when I put the fan on high (after a few more bangs) then is fine until the heat selector is moved to the other position.
      Does anyone know which problem I have?
      Thank you in advance.
       
    8. BigRondo

      BigRondo USMC 1371 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Thank you all. I figured with winter coming up people that have been putting this off would need to get it done.

      Joe, believe it or not, I thought about you and the carpet but I didn't have enough time. I also fixed my LED display when I was done with this. I burned a lot of daylight that day!!
       
    9. jakedrew

      jakedrew Active Member

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      that is exactly how I did mine. I didnt cut that much of the dash.

      Thanks for the how to! and glad you got it working again.
       
    10. BigRondo

      BigRondo USMC 1371 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Thank you. I know that when I put the temp to hot I could hear clicking under the dash. When I put the fan on high it would eventually blow the door shut and the clicking would go away. When I returned the temp to cold I don't think i heard any clicking. According to everything read on here, I had the symptoms of a bad actuator. So I changed it out and all is well now.
       
    11. BigRondo

      BigRondo USMC 1371 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Thanks. I really didn't know how much dash to cut out but I figured if it was going to be covered, what the hell!! Thanks again for your help.
       
    12. my1zamboni

      my1zamboni Member

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      I just checked it again and I defiantly get the banging both ways. When first turning the heat to “hot” it will bang a bit, turning the fan to high fixes this with one good bang then I can adjust the heat with the fan and opening and closing window.
      Turning heat selector to cold also produces the banging which I can make “go away” by putting fan on high.
      I Just was wondering what others experienced to determine if it was the door or the actuator.
      Thanks for any help everyone.
       
    13. my1zamboni

      my1zamboni Member

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      Big Rondo....roughly how long did the actual fix take you start to finish?
      Just wondering.
      Anyone else that can offer what their sound was like so I can tell if it is the acuator or the door I would really appreciate it.
      I am getting ready to do this either this weekend or next.
      Thanks a lot everyone.
       
    14. jakedrew

      jakedrew Active Member

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      that is the actuator . same thing I experienced .
       
    15. BigRondo

      BigRondo USMC 1371 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      I would say it takes about 2 hours. It took me longer because I took about 5 pictures of each step for the write up. It's really not that bad of a job. Good luck, keep us posted.
       
    16. my1zamboni

      my1zamboni Member

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      Thank you all for the suggestions and pictures.
      After a little more digging into the sounds especially after looking at Big Rondo's wonderful write up and pictures (thank you again) I think it is the acuator as that is where the sound seems to come from and not behind the glove box.
      Big Rondo, in your pictures the actuator doesn't seem broken, is it internal that it breaks?
      I will keep you all posted, Next Saturday I am going to send the wife away for the morning and tackle this. I stay calmer that way.
      Thank you all again for your help with this.
      I called 2 dealers last week about this and they both quoted 4-6 hours and $800-$1000 if I can get out of this with $70 and 2-3 hours I am a happy person.
       
    17. BigRondo

      BigRondo USMC 1371 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      The gears inside the "box" break. See Post numbers 41 & 146 in this thread: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=198271. Good luck with the install. Let us know how you make out. :salute:
       
    18. Scootman

      Scootman New Member

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      Big Rondo......this could not be more timely. 2004 Explorer XLT doing the same thing.

      And I agree with all, best write up I have seen on fixing 'anything'

      Good on ya!
       
    19. my1zamboni

      my1zamboni Member

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      Well, this is my project for next weekend. I now have no heat at all just cold air and mornings here in Maine are starting to get a bit chilly.
      Ordered the part from Ford this morning will be in on Monday and was $69.53 plus tax, how can they really charge $800-$1000 for this repair. Did they see Big Rondo's pictures? Do they see how easy this is?
       
    20. jakedrew

      jakedrew Active Member

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      8mm(or 7) ratching wrench instead of a just a plain open end wrench was nice to have for me when taking off the 2 actuator bolts.

      Also you should have put up a picture of the old motor. Just pry it apart and you will see one of the little plastic gears about the size of a pencil tip busted.
       
    21. BigRondo

      BigRondo USMC 1371 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Thank you. :biggthump Good luck with the install. Be sure to let us no how you make out.

      I also paid $69.53 + tax. Good luck with the install. You're gonna love having heat again!!

      Here you go, the arrows point to the broken gear. There is 3 teeth broken off:

      [​IMG]
       
      Last edited: October 8, 2010
    22. jluv

      jluv Guest

      Good write-up, although there is no need to remove the four screws on the floor inside the center console compartment or "bucket". Those just hold that bucket into the console. With the other screws removed, it's very simple just to pull the entire console and duct that runs under it. I've had mine out easily a dozen times.
       
    23. 03snkvert

      03snkvert New Member

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      Just thought I would add to this a little!

      I just did this last weekend on My 02 and followed another write up that was just about the same. All the info posted in this thread is exact, Minus removing the bucket in the Console!

      However, I did not cut my dash and I was still able to replace the actuator. Then only thing I did was use a magnetic pick up tool (like a pen style) to put the top screw into the hole.

      I ordered mine From Tousley Ford in MN, they are a Vendor on a Mustang website I am on, but this is a public site. Paid $42.06 + $7 shipping ($50 total)
      Just figured I could help someone save a few bucks:

      http://www.tousleyford.com/index.cfm?action=parts&subaction=partsform&franchiseID=2360

      Search Part # 1L2Z-19E616-CA
       
    24. btjohnson911

      btjohnson911 New Member

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      Actuator broken ??

      Hi guys. Have a '02 XLT. When I got it with 69k miles I noticed there was a cllicking sound from what sounded like the fan at the lower settings. it went away on high. Recently, the air duct system stuck on defrost and won't move now. So here's what it's doing:

      Fan works on all speeds but there is a clicking sound that increases with the speed of the fan, imperceptible on high.

      Temp control works and I get both warm and cool air. I can hear air redirected when I rotate from cool to warm setting.

      Vent control: Only air from the defroster blows out, but the system will turn off and it will activate the A/C on that setting. It just won't redirect the air flow from the defroster.

      So...any ideas? It doesn't sound identical to the actuator complaints in that i do get warm air.

      Thanks in advance for any help.
       
    25. jrraven

      jrraven New Member

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      I also found it at parts.com totaled around $55.



       
    26. nluv43v3r

      nluv43v3r New Member

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      Thank you

      Thank you so much. Having these pictures and step by step instructions helped so much. The one good thing is that I didn't have to cut my dash. I guess it helps to have small fingers :) I saved over $700.00 because of your post. I have found a new profession charging people $600.00 to put in a $74.00 piece. No not really that is just purely a rip-off. All together it took about 2 and a half hours. Thank you again!
       

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