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Replace Front Seatbelt and Retractor

Discussion in 'Stock 1995 - 2001 Explorers' started by BouExplorerTwice, December 12, 2010.

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    1. BouExplorerTwice

      BouExplorerTwice New Member

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      I've been searching for information about this procedure and coming up mostly empty (Front outboard assembly). The inboard belt job has lots of post on that.

      So far, this is the only existing online guidance I found:

      http://www.automd.com/127/40230/how...actor/1995/ford/explorer/xlt/6-cyl-40l/?key=1

      As I go through my job, I'll make photos and post everything. I've got the service manual and will scan the relevant pages to include here too.
       
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    3. BouExplorerTwice

      BouExplorerTwice New Member

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      My wife's 2000 XLT 4-door's driver seat belt was acting up and would not fully retract and kind of "chug" in a herky-jerky fashion which it had not done before.
      I dove into the job this morning, here's how I did it:

      1. Pull up the 4-foot long floor trim strip, no tools really needed it is clipped in, set it aside.

      2. The upper guide / shoulder strap adjuster is covered by a plastic fitting which pried open either with a straight slot screwdriver or by hand, depending on the specific version. Once that's off, you can see the T-47 torx mounting bolt underneath. Unscrew it all the way.

      3. Next, pull the floor carpet back a bit to uncover the floor T-47 torx mounting bolt; unscrew that one.

      4. At this point, I chose to thread the entire belt, along with the various hardware still attached as they are through the 3/4-inch high or so slot in the upper trim piece that is still attached but hanging loose. Now you've just got the retractor bolted to the inside of the frame.

      5. I unscrewed the 10mm-head screw from the top of the retractor and then the T-47 bolt at the bottom of the retractor. Once done, you're holding the entire seatbelt and retractor assembly in your hand.

      6. In my case, the retractor was quite dust-covered. I vacuumed and brushed it off.

      7. There were plastic external side covers on the retractor mechanism which had "Caution do not remove" on them. With these covers on, it was impossible to see the mechanism moving parts, although that probably isn't all bad, given the spring tension in there.

      8. Without getting any on the belt itself, I was able to use a fine tube to spray lubricant on the inside roller hub axle areas. After that, I exercised the seat belt through a couple of pull-out and roll-up cycles; the performance quickly improved to good as new.

      9. Just the mechanism oiling and cleanup accomplished what I was looking for, so I put everything back together in reverse order. You could just about as easily install a new assembly in there too, if needed.
       
    4. BouExplorerTwice

      BouExplorerTwice New Member

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      More: the whole job ran no more than an hour and was much easier than I had thought. I used a (metric) socket set, T47 bit, and a screwdriver helped out. Oil and a vacuum cleaner, too.
       
    5. mhamill

      mhamill New Member

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      Year and Model:
      93 XLT
      1993 driver seatbelt replace

      Majorly helpful small trick I used because the center seat console is in the way--used a heat gun to soften the plastic at the bottom and used the socket extension to create a groove that allowed the nut to be removed without taking the console out. You can resoften it to get the groove out but I did not. Protect the carpet and heat outlet grill with tinfoil or other. I replaced the drivers side belts with ones bought at seatbeltplanet.com. If you buy from them make sure you get the 140" if buying the entire unit or ask if they will just sell you the inner 12" push button belt which is the unit that usually fails. The retractor from seat belt planet is slightly different from the original and the plastic cover may have to be heated and molded to allow it to be closed properly. The Torx bit is a T50 not T47--at least for my truck.
       
      Last edited: April 10, 2012

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