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Replacing Jackshaft & Left cam cassette tensioners...and more?

Discussion in 'Stock 1995 - 2001 Explorers' started by skloczko, February 28, 2010.

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    1. skloczko

      skloczko Member

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      Hi all. So here's my weekend project so far... It started with my friends father giving me a '98 Explorer XLT 4.0 SOHC. (Loadedddddd). This thing was noisey as hell...but it was free. The guys story goes like this - "I was on the highway and someone pissed me off, I pegged it kamikaze style and the noises started".

      It drove pretty smooth surprisingly on the way to my house, so I took it on as a project.

      Upon removing the left valve cover, and with a bit of help from Gold984's posts for the same project...I discovered there was no tensioner on the cam chain...busted right off.

      Got the part from Autozone "Left cassette/timing kit 4 pcs". Duralast...would like the Ford part but I have done quite a bit of work on my old GMC with Duralast parts and they've been consistent.

      The last two days have been spent removing the accessories from the front of the engine, draining fluids, removing the radiator, crankshaft pulley, timing cover, blown apart tensioner pieces.

      Once I removed the timing cover the job got more interesting....jackshaft tensioner was blown apart, pieces everywhere, similar to Gold984's situation.

      Figuring out how to post pictures now to give a short extension of Gold984s project, and share the problems I came across.
       
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    3. skloczko

      skloczko Member

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    4. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      What about the rear?

      Since you have the upper intake manifold off I suggest that you take the time to remove the right valve cover and inspect the rear guide assembly. Most members experience the jackshaft chain tensioner as the first failure, the left upper guide assembly as the second failure, and the rear guide assembly as the last failure. When I pulled my valve covers I was surprised to find my left upper in good shape but my right rear destroyed. I won't know about the jackshaft chain tensioner for a few days when I get my engine pulled and the timing cover removed.
       
    5. skloczko

      skloczko Member

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      Really did not want to even think about it haha. I dont have the manifold off, but I think it will be a good idea to take the right valve cover off to at least do a visual inspection of that side. Also plan on removing oil pan and will check from the bottom as well.

      Really hoping theres nothing wrong back there, wouldnt be too happy about having to pull the engine.

      Pics on their way.
       
    6. skloczko

      skloczko Member

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      Ah! Upper intake manifold, that would be the black plastic intake part on top of the manifold....yes thats off, sorry.
       
    7. skloczko

      skloczko Member

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      [​IMG]

      First steps, upper intake piece, and left valve cover
       
    8. skloczko

      skloczko Member

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      That was a big pic....sorry

      [​IMG]
       
    9. skloczko

      skloczko Member

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      No tensioner/guide on the right there, and chain has been hitting the inside of the cover
      [​IMG]
       
    10. skloczko

      skloczko Member

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      Draining the radiator while removing the accessories from the front of the engine. Alternator is a couple wires and three bolts, have to remove tensioner to get at one of them. I took the bolts out of the P/S pump and A/C compressor bracket and just swung it out of the way to skip a couple steps....

      [​IMG]
      [​IMG]
       
    11. skloczko

      skloczko Member

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      Got the water pump outta there. ****Note, I still did not take off the radiator, only when attempting to pull the crankshaft pulley did I realize that the extra space was definitely going to help

      [​IMG]
       
    12. skloczko

      skloczko Member

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      To take the bolt out of the pulley, i ended up putting an extension through the large hole on the left until it wedged against the timing cover. Not the best way to do this, but a Haynes manual offered it as an option and I was stuck, because that bolt was tough. Also to note here, one of the other holes on the bottom there, used for the puller, wasnt threaded, so I got some 5" bolts that went right through the hole and put a nut and washer on the back of the pulley, tedious but i was then able to use the puller.

      [​IMG]
       
    13. skloczko

      skloczko Member

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      *Caution* Id like to share my screw up. Make sure whatever extension you stick in this pulley makes it all the way to the back of the threads and stops. Only after I pulled the pulley off did I realize that the extension piece I used was a tad wide and caused some slight damage to those threads. Fortunately it wasnt bad and I used a tap to clean it up.
      [​IMG]
       
    14. skloczko

      skloczko Member

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      Got the pulley off, had to take out 10 or so bolts from around the timing cover, some of them were stud/bolts, and I believe there were six small bolts from the oil pan that threaded vertically into the bottom of the timing cover. Popped the cover off...and fun ensued....

      [​IMG]
      [​IMG]
      [​IMG]
       
    15. skloczko

      skloczko Member

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      Broken pieces everywhere... 4 or 5 that came out of the visible part of the upper oil pan.
      [​IMG]
      Took out a few more after I took that pic. Those long thin wire grabber hands that you can get at autozone are great for this....
       
    16. skloczko

      skloczko Member

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      Can anyone tell me if this tensioner is broken? There seems to be an abnormal amount of play in it.... Is this part purchasable? Know what its called or where I can find it?
      [​IMG]
      [​IMG]
       
    17. skloczko

      skloczko Member

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      Tied the slack on the timing chain... the bolt that needs to be taken out to remove the left cassette is going to be a pain. Gold984 has some good pics of how he did it. I think its going to help seeing as I can fit in here.....between the engine and the front radiator that I didnt take out.
      [​IMG]
      [​IMG]
       
    18. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      tensioner assy - balance shaft

      I don't have one so don't know how to tell if it's weak.

      1l2z6l266aa $21.65 retail $14.29 discount

      TENS ASY - BAL SHFT

      tousleyfordparts.com (Explorer Forum vendor, employee cost +10%, cost for shipping)
      tascafordparts.com
      silverstatefordparts.com
      fordgenuinepartsonline.com
       
    19. skloczko

      skloczko Member

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      Thanks for the info again StreetRod. Located that part and some others that I will need and contacted the local Ford dealership. Fortunately I have a hookup and paid at dealer cost for the following parts and will have them tomorrow.

      Balance Shaft Tensioner PN: 6L266
      Jackshaft chain tensioner PN: 6L266
      Engine timing cover gasket PN: 6020
      Water pump gasket PN: 8507
       
    20. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      front cassette pivot bolt

      The bolt that holds the lower section of the front guide assembly is behind the jackshaft sprocket. Frequently, the upper front chain is replaced when the guide assembly is replaced. Replacing the upper chain requires removal of the jackshaft sprocket. Apparently you are just going to replace the guide assembly and not the chain. An angle box wrench may be required to remove the bolt and you won't be able to measure the torque when you tighten it. I don't know if the jackshaft main sprocket is keyed. If it is then it can be removed and reinstalled without retiming the cams.
       
    21. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      No key on sprockets

      I found the following statement in a post by CDW6212R:

      "The cam sprockets, and the jackshaft sprockets, all four of them are held in place by pressure, the bolt pressure. If you loosen any of those four(two in back), the timing will be lost. The slightest movement of the cams or jackshaft, will change the cam timing quite a bit."

      So removing the main jackshaft sprocket to get room to remove the left guide assembly lower bolt would require retiming both camshafts.
       
    22. skloczko

      skloczko Member

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      Oh boy:eek:

      Now can this problem be solved by using the timing kit that locks the crankshaft and the cam in place?
       
    23. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      chain guide assembly bolt torque

      The specified torque for the timing chain cassette bolt is 89 to 123 inch-lbs. It should not be difficult to get loose and the torque is probably not critical. As long as you don't loosen any of the sprocket bolts you will not have to retime the camshafts. Removing the upper tensioner will allow more slack in the chain but I doubt it will be enough to get the old guide assembly out and the new one in. I think you will have to remove the camshaft sprocket to replace the guide assembly. Do you have access to the camshaft timing tool set (OTC 6488)?
       
    24. skloczko

      skloczko Member

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      Thanks again!

      I dont have access to one of those tools that I know of, I have to ask around...

      I think my plan will be to do as much as possible while removing as little as possible. Even if it means 1/8th of a turn at a time on that bolt. It looks like if I can take out the bolt holding the cassette, and the one that goes through the head cover, I can possibly slide the old cassette pieces down and the new ones up in the cover?

      The only one that makes me real nervous is that balance shaft tensioner, hopefully once I raise the engine a tad to remove the oil pan I'll be able to get a better look at how to approach it...
       
    25. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      jackshaft sprocket hole

      I believe that to remove the guide assembly you will have to position the large jackshaft sprocket with one of the holes in it aligned with the guide assembly lower bolt head. Once the bolt is unscrewed you'll have to work it into the sprocket hole to release it from the guide assembly.

      I seriously doubt that you can replace the guide assembly without removing the camshaft sprocket. There is a projection (nub) at the head casting larger opening that will block the insertion of the new assembly. The guide assembly is too thick to pass between the head casting and the camshaft sprocket bolt.

      As long as you don't loosen the jackshaft sprocket bolt you won't have to retime the right camshaft. It is possible to time the camshafts without the tool set but the results may not be exact. Other members have done it and I plan to attempt it.
       
    26. gold984by4

      gold984by4 New Member

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      Good day,

      Okay, a few key points... You should always use the tools that hold the cam in place... I say this cause I get a lot of grief from those that believe it is a must to do this job. I did not use the tools to hold the cams in place... Since the tensioner was shot, there was a little bit of slack in the chain... I rotated the crank until the left cam found a happy point in the rotation... where it didn't have any pressure on it in either direction... I marked the cam, chain, and sprocket to make sure they would all go back in the same location... Check the pics on my post how I did this... I found this a must because I could not get the busted cassette out without removing the cam sprocket... So, you must take great care when removing the sprocket not to drop it - but that is what the marks are for... remove the bolts holding the cassette in, losen and remove the cam sprocket bolt, get your handy grabber tool to pull the cassette out, slide the sprocket off the cam, remove cassette, return sprocket to cam... drink a beer... kiss the wife... rest... then reverse all that with the new cassette... Line up the marks, tighten the sprocket... then move to the pan for the next one... You will have to clean the pan once you get it off... And the pick-up tube screen... I'd also replace the bolts that I noted in my write-up... Those torx heads are just wrong for this location... IMHO anyway...

      Good luck and I hope this helps!!

      Cheers!!!
       

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