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Ronin8002's 4th Gen custom coilover conversion

Discussion in 'Offroad Projects' started by Ronin8002, December 20, 2012.

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    1. Ronin8002

      Ronin8002 Well-Known Member

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      Another thing, I think 24" of extended shock length (including the brackets) is about the max length you can get on the 4WD front suspension on the 4th gens. Really much more than that and you can feel the CVs start to bind. Fortunately mine maxes out right at 24" with the shock and brackets included, and it will be getting limit straps anyway, so I'm not worried about it.
       
      Last edited: January 15, 2013
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    3. jjaganashi

      jjaganashi Active Member

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      [​IMG]
      Now this is just my .02 cents from my own personal experiance
      The part that is highlighted yellow might need to be beefed up some.
      the top mount from the tubing is awsome.
      From personal experiance from my first SAS. i used 2 individual tabs welded to a plate(like the one highlighted) for shock mounts only(no load bearing mounts) and i kept on haveing an issue offroading of twisting and collapsing the tabs.
      i would just suggest putting a support plate across the two tabs on the knuckle side that holds the tabs at a fixed width.
      And possibly a side gusset from the bolt mounting plate to the left tab for a little extra support..
      In your case, those 2 welded seams on the tabs have to support the whole front weight of the truck..
      On a side note. i really love the ingenuity and quality of work on your rig.. its always great to see people "stray from the pack" and create their own unique mods.

      max
       
    4. Ronin8002

      Ronin8002 Well-Known Member

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      Good point and thank you for the feedback. I'll definitely look at joining the two tabs with a crosspiece. I kind of want to leave a space at the bottom so it doesn't catch and hold water, see any issues with that? Will also look at the side gussets as space allows.

       
    5. jjaganashi

      jjaganashi Active Member

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      You shouldnt have any issues with spacing the box plate up a hair to allow for water to exit.. as long as there is something there to hold the spacing would be a large improvement to keep from bending or colapsing the tabs.
      Max
       
    6. corkey

      corkey Moderator Emeritus Moderator Emeritus

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      mine don't have any gussets and hold the front of mine up well, and no bending as the force is down and out just like yours, not to the side,,
      [​IMG]
       
    7. Ronin8002

      Ronin8002 Well-Known Member

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      Also a good point. I think my tabs are fairly tall compared to yours though... mine are 1.75" from base to mounting hole and 2.5" wide at the base. I ran another hot pass over each of the welds to build them up a little bit more. It's not a big thing to make up a little web or gusset to put in there if I decide I really need it.

      I've got time anyway, I'm waiting on two 18mm nuts to come into my local fastener store so I can weld those on the inside tabs on my lower brackets. Supposed to get here Friday. Guess that makes Saturday an install day as long as the paint is dry by then haha.

      I'm really looking forward to seeing how this thing will ride after hearing rangermidtn's results.
       
    8. unclemeat

      unclemeat Well-Known Member

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      James have you though about cryro treating your mounts? It may be a cheap way to strengthen the mounts and equalize internal metal stress from construction.
       
    9. Ronin8002

      Ronin8002 Well-Known Member

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      I hadnt thought about it, didnt realize it was that common.

      Ive tried to reduce/equalize the stress by backstep welding, letting my welds cool between passes, and alternating sides.
       
    10. The Electrician

      The Electrician Active Member

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      You are great as usual James :D

      Subscribing
       
    11. The Electrician

      The Electrician Active Member

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      actually Stock strut has only 1.xx" travel and Rsncho has 4.xx" travel
       
    12. Ronin8002

      Ronin8002 Well-Known Member

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      Update:

      Had a minor setback with the lower brackets. When I got some 18mm nuts to put on the inside of the tabs that the OEM strut bolt passes thru, I discovered that the nut is too wide...the bolt runs out of threads before it can catch the OEM strut bolt nut on the rear side of the control arm.

      So, I'm having to do a little extra work to do what I should have done in the beginning...drill an 18mm hole so the bolt will fit in the tabs more tightly. Of course, the 3/4" holes that are there are bigger than 18mm. Rather than rebuild the mount, I am installing a set of the weld washer bushings (same ones I used in the upper mounts). I finally found an 18mm drill bit also, and since the weld washers have only a 1/2" ID hole, I will drill them out to 18mm ID to allow the OEM strut bolt to fit through.

      I got the weld washers put in today, so will drill them out tomorrow. I also have the gussets for the shock tabs ready to install. I was thinking about the best place to put them, and it seems to me that if I install them on the inboard side, not the knuckle side, that will give me the reinforcement I need without turning the shock tabs into a mud/water collection area. That placement will also let me weld the bottom edge of the gussets to the flat plate that the shock tabs are welded to, which, if the welds on the tabs were to give at all (I doubt they would), there will be an extra attachment point to keep them from being tipped and rotated towards the knuckle.

      Finally will be able to paint the lower mounts after that, and am shooting now for installing everything on monday during the holiday.
       
    13. Ronin8002

      Ronin8002 Well-Known Member

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      I had thought so too in the past, based on what Monroe's site had said about the specs. Looks like they changed the numbers. Makes more sense too, seeing as the OEM struts I have are 20.5" long at ride height and 21.5" long fully extended...and of course they compress some too from ride height.
       
    14. Ronin8002

      Ronin8002 Well-Known Member

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      Done:

      [​IMG]

      Need to tighten a couple of things up and take her for a drive later. Looks like I got about 2" of lift with zero preload on the springs, we'll see if the springs settle in after a drive.

      No contact between spindle/uniball cup and the spring at full droop either.

      Thanks again to rangermidtn, corkey, and everyone else who helped with this project!
       
    15. Ronin8002

      Ronin8002 Well-Known Member

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      Done:

      [​IMG]

      Need to tighten a couple of things up and take her for a drive later. Looks like I got about 2" of lift with zero preload on the springs, we'll see if the springs settle in after a drive.

      No contact between spindle/uniball cup and the spring at full droop either.

      Thanks again to rangermidtn, corkey, and everyone else who helped with this project!
       
    16. rangermidtn

      rangermidtn Active Member

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      Looking good, let us know what you think after taking it for a drive.
       
    17. corkey

      corkey Moderator Emeritus Moderator Emeritus

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      :thumbsup:looks awesome,:thumbsup:
      , glad i could help,,

      let us know how the drive went too,:D
       
    18. Ronin8002

      Ronin8002 Well-Known Member

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      Test drive went well. Mostly just drove around the neighborhood and ran over some speedbumps. Feels at least as good as an un-lifted truck on stock type struts, a little less stiff for sure. Ran up on some curbs with one front wheel to test the flex a little. Before, where the truck would lean over a lot in situations like that, it appears the suspension flexes better now and the truck sits more level when on off camber bumps, so that part seems to work as planned.

      After the drive the springs settled in about 1/4", so I'll be adjusting the preload a bit to fix that and also get both sides equal (there's about a 1/2" difference in height between left and right).

      I didn't want to go on the highway yet since I know the alignment is way off. I can see excessive camber in the front. I tried to put the BTF upper control arms right where the stock ones were for a starting point. After fixing the preload I'll get the camber close as I can by eyeballing it.

      After all that I'll get the rear truxxx spacers in and take it to the shop to get aligned.
       
    19. Brandon96

      Brandon96 Well-Known Member

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      dude, awesome!
       
    20. corkey

      corkey Moderator Emeritus Moderator Emeritus

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    21. Ronin8002

      Ronin8002 Well-Known Member

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      Thanks!

      I got the rear truxxx spacers installed. Here's how she sits now:

      [​IMG]

      [​IMG]

      [​IMG]

      [​IMG]

      [​IMG]

      [​IMG]

      Driver's side front is about a half inch too low. Will even that out with a little preload on that corner, and also fix the way too positive camber angle.

      With the preload corrected on the drivers side front, the measurement from the center of the wheel at the ground to the highest part of the fenderwell is:

      36" front, 36.25" rear. 12" from ground to the bottom of the front crossmember.

      Nice mild lift, and I am loving the ride so far.
       
      Last edited: January 26, 2013
    22. rangermidtn

      rangermidtn Active Member

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      Looks good, I got my 750lb springs on today, what a difference. I also have a 1/2" difference from driver to passenger side.
       
    23. Ronin8002

      Ronin8002 Well-Known Member

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      Played around with the preload today to get the driver/passenger side evened up. Took about 3/8" of preload to make up the 1/2" of lift. Also did a quick and dirty alignment to fix the camber, at least as far as my eyeball and level can tell.

      With that done, I felt better about taking it on a longer drive on some faster roads. What I noticed most was things like potholes and rough patches in the road definitely feel different now. In those situations the suspension feels sort of firm but not jarring at all. With the stock struts it would feel like the front would start to get jounced around on potholes, now it just feels like the bumps are soaked up and the truck is staying firmly in contact with the ground.
       
    24. The Electrician

      The Electrician Active Member

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      Congratulations James

      can you list parts numbers
       
    25. Ronin8002

      Ronin8002 Well-Known Member

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      Thanks! I will post part numbers in the morning.
       
    26. Ronin8002

      Ronin8002 Well-Known Member

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      Parts List

      Here are the parts I ordered. I got everything from www.polyperformance.com I got the fasteners from my local hardware store.

      FOX-980-02-000-A : Fox 2.0 5" Emulsion coilover shock, Qty 2
      FOX-213-01-238-A : Fox 2.0 Extended lower eyelet 3.75", Qty 2
      213-18-009-A: Fox 2.0 Shock spacers, 1.5" tab width, Qty 8
      ERS-1000-250-0750-S: Eibach 2.5" ID 10" long 750lb coil spring, Qty 2

      For the brackets:

      1/2" x 3" Grade 8 bolts, Qty 4
      1/2" Grade 8 nuts, Qty 4
      1/2" Grade 8 washers, Qty 8
      3/8" x 5" Grade 8 bolts, Qty 6
      3/8" Grade 8 nuts, Qty 6
      3/8 Grade 8 washers, Qty 6

      The brackets were all made of 1/4" steel, mostly plate but I used 2 x 3 .25 wall box tubing for the upper mount.

      Essentially you need to make a bracket that will mount the shock 3" from the top strut mounting surface to the coilover mounting hole. You will weld this to a 3" x 5" flat plate with 3/8" holes drilled in it to match the stud holes for the strut. I welded the 3/8" bolts into the plate also to make installation easier. The lower bracket needs to mount the coilover 3" straight up from the original lower strut bolt in the lower control arm. If you make a bolt on setup like mine, the distance from the center of the strut bolt hole in the lower control arm and that flat open area on top of the control arm is 1". The hole drilled needs to be 18mm.

      If you wanted to use a 6.5" travel shock instead of a 5", just shorten either the upper or lower bracket by 1.5".
       
      Last edited: January 25, 2013

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