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Roof Rack / Rail Removal

Discussion in 'Modified 2011- 2019 Explorer Sport Tuning' started by txaggie, February 16, 2013.

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    1. LakersCentral

      LakersCentral Active Member

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      I'm going to try it this way. 3M auto tape is a very good product, but is too expensive for 32ft (8 ft x 4 left/right/top/bottom), and will also be too thick (want to keep the soft rail as close to the body as possible- and the velcro already adds thickness). So instead, I'm trying to find the best glue to permanently adhere one side of the velcro to the body (or rather to the rubber-like substance that's between the original rails and the body paint). The other side of the velcro will be permanently glued to the soft rail.

      The only thing then is ensuring the 2 sides of the velcro don't come apart under driving conditions. Not sure how this can be accomplished- still playing with the idea of drilling 2 bolts through the rail (one in front and one in back). Also, I'd like to tie the original front rail piece in with the soft rail somehow if possible.

      I'll be taking on the this project in a couple days, so right now all I need is to figure out what glue would be best. I has to be very strong, work well with velcro (vinyl?) to a rubber / metal surface, easily spreadable, and dry fairly quickly (within a few hours ideally). Anyone have any recommendations? Here's a few I've been looking at (I've never worked with any of these):

       
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    3. LakersCentral

      LakersCentral Active Member

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      Update: e6000 glue didn't work out. outdoor heat made it melt into a gooey mess, and peeled fairly easily. I also tried liquid nails (the $2 tube of it), and it didn't work either (nor does it dry clear so that's no good).

      Next I suppose I'll be trying Gorilla glue. Why is the simplest thing so difficult?!!
       
    4. mhikeboy

      mhikeboy Active Member

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      Hi! so what did you do to cover up the center bolts and the back bolts? could you take photos of them too? Thanks
       
    5. AdmiralLopez

      AdmiralLopez New Member

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      mhikeboy, I did nothing with the remaining bolts. Just tightened them down
       
    6. Medic531

      Medic531 Member

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      I have ordered all 4 parts listed below to do my conversion to a slick top from my local ford dealer. Both drip moldings have came in and one retainer. I called ford to see where the 2nd retainer was and they just advised me that it's on back order due to a engeineering malfunction. He advised me that the part number currently listed below has now changed. He has ordered the retainer from the new part number. I should have it this Friday. In case anyone is wanting to do this project I will be sure to list the new part number when it arrives along with pics of my conversion.



       
    7. cbx9r

      cbx9r New Member

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      adding the roof rack

      So , I am thinking of adding a roof rack to my slick top any one want to sell me their cast off parts?
       
    8. Medic531

      Medic531 Member

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      Complete! Very easy! With shipping and tax for all 4 parts it came to $163.
      The parts used:
      DB5Z-7851729-AA
      DB5Z-7851728-AA
      FB5Z-7850002-A (REPLACES PART# DBZ5-7850002-B)
      DB5Z-7850002-A

      [​IMG]
       
      Last edited: February 12, 2016
    9. peterk9

      peterk9 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Picture is waaaaay too large. As per guidelines, jpg pictures should not exceed 800 X 800 pixels.

      Peter
       
      Last edited: February 12, 2016
    10. Medic531

      Medic531 Member

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      Fixed and reposted
       
    11. peterk9

      peterk9 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Thank you. Looks good BTW. :thumbsup:

      Peter
       
    12. Juniornyc

      Juniornyc New Member

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      2016 roof rack removal

      So i saw the new 16 interceptor today and it has the roof moldings. I really want to remove thereof rack and was wondering if anyone knows where to purchase them???
       
    13. peterk9

      peterk9 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Your thread has been merged with this existing one found using the Forum's 'Search' program.
      Do you still have the F-150. If not please update your profile or add the 2016 to your 'Signature' so members will know what you have. Please include 'trim' level (Base, XLT, etc). Thanks.

      Peter
       
    14. TRWXXA

      TRWXXA Member

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      I took the plunge. Ordered the parts to delete the roof rails on my 2016 Ex.

      The black, solid rails on the 2016 look kinda clunky, and I prefer the slick-top look anyway.

      I'll post up pics and parts details when I begin the modification.
       
    15. fcowell

      fcowell New Member

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      Where did you buy?

      Hi Medic531 - are you saying you bought ALL required parts for $163? If so, would you mind sharing the website? Thanks!

      -Frank
       
    16. peterk9

      peterk9 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Welcome to the Forum Frank.:wavey:

      Peter
       
    17. fcowell

      fcowell New Member

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      Thanks, Peter!

      I'm in the process of customizing my '16 Explorer —#color matching the cladding, throwing some 22" wheels on... the roof racks are off and I want to make sure it has a finished look, so this thread is super helpful. Sounds like it's a $300-400 deal.

      -Frank
       
    18. Medic531

      Medic531 Member

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      Correct, $163 total. I purchased through fordparts.com and had it shipped to my local dealer.
       
    19. fcowell

      fcowell New Member

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      Gotcha - I ended getting the whole sh'bang. Came close to $400 with all parts. I'll be posting pics soon. Thanks!
       
    20. Medic531

      Medic531 Member

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      I was surprised how easy it was to do. You will love the outcome. I'm assuming you haven't done this yet. I need to post more pics of mine too to get ideas on how to finish the blackout look.
       
    21. TRWXXA

      TRWXXA Member

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      Got all my parts too. Just a bit under $400 for everything.

      I'll tackle it as soon as it warms up a bit more around here, and I find out how to remove the 2016+ style rails without breaking anything.
       
    22. fcowell

      fcowell New Member

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      No, haven't done this before. I have a family member who is a pro body tech - we are trading work. The racks are already off with the front plastic pieces painted and in place as a temporary deal until the new parts come in. When they come on, I'll get them painted like I did the body cladding so it blends in.
       
    23. fcowell

      fcowell New Member

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      They're pretty easy to remove from what I understand (a family member who is a pro body tech is doing my work). I'll post pics in the next week or so.
       
    24. TRWXXA

      TRWXXA Member

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      I tried it today, and it actually was pretty easy to remove. You just start prying up the cover from the rear to the front, with a trim removal tool. when you have released all the clips, then you just pull the cover backwards, and off it comes. Then you just start unbolting the base.

      I hit one big snag, however. The bolt over the rear doors is a stud fro some reason. The nuts came off easy, and the passenger side stud did too. The driver side one was cross threaded or something. It came about halfway out and that was it. I could not screw it back in, or out any further. A Dremel cutoff wheel took care of that.

      Another surprise awaited...

      The clips that hold the forward "hockey stick" trim pieces were not the long one that I expected. They were the short pieces that are also used for the PI "less roof rack" trim piece.

      [​IMG]

      Must be a change for the new rail style.

      So now I have two sets of those short clips since I ordered them for the mod.

      Right now the Ex is sitting in the garage waiting for the sealant I put around the hole-filling grub screws to dry. Then I'll put on the long trim strips.
       
    25. fcowell

      fcowell New Member

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      Got the parts, except for two small pieces that are on back order

      Have all parts except for two minor ones that are on back order - just sitting in my garage waiting to go on!
       
    26. Pepper2829

      Pepper2829 New Member

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      Part number update and pricing

      Only trying to update an already great thread.

      Finally did this. Ordered all the parts prior....in reality, all you need are the gutter moldings from the windshield and some hardware.

      The retainers have new part numbers
      FB5Z-7850002-A (right)
      FB5Z-7850002-B (left)

      Though I do not see a need in ordering them. Apparently 2016 and up models all have the short ones, plus, you could just cut your existing long ones. (and still reverse the process)

      The left one is/was on back order as of a month ago. A retired parts manager on another forum did a dealer search for me and found 5 in the country. (I thought I kept that email, will look in my notes to see if I still have the dealerships that still had them) In any case, I wouldn't order them again. (Having new foam around the hole on the under side is a plus though)

      Parts diagram showed you needing 4 bolts..W713232-S439...I only used 2 (one for each retainer) there again, stock ones could be reused. (But new ones have a sealant on the threads)

      I initially used the rubber washers listed earlier, wasn't happy with them, and did not want to use silicone (They were broken and messed up after only two days). I ended up ordering
      http://www.amazon.com/Hillman-Group...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
      and
      http://www.amazon.com/Hard-Find-Fas...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
      (did not use yet, unless I get water penetration)
      And I wasn't happy with the phillips screws I got locally, so I ordered
      http://www.amazon.com/Hillman-Group...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

      The metal washer is not much lager then the button head, looks pretty good, and I have had no water penetration.

      As no one has mentioned it, I guess I will, if you want to be able to reverse this when your using stainless, use anti-seize.

      So this can be done for less than $100. (Mouldings are $43/$44)

      As my Explorer is tri-coat white, I do not want to run black moulding down the gutter.
      I will be painting all the lower plastic and will paint the roof mouldings too.

      Maybe this winter if I'm not so busy, I want to make an actual filler strip front to rear in sheet metal (box tube that will fill the gutter flush) and paint body color. One piece that can bolt down.

      As a side note, when removing the rails, do not try to separate the moulding from the pedestal. Take it off as a unit, remove the rubber gasket, the you turn the moulding 90 degrees to remove it. Trying to pry them apart on the vehicle, will result in a broken clip.

      Hope this helps. Obviously not the only way to do it. Just one possible way. Also the cheapest way to do it. (Unless you can find a wrecked police version and get used parts lol)
       
      Last edited: May 18, 2016

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