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Roof Rack / Rail Removal

Discussion in 'Modified 2011- 2019 Explorer Sport Tuning' started by txaggie, February 16, 2013.

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    1. fcowell

      fcowell New Member

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      Thanks for the info. Needing the bolts since I lost mine during the project.

      Like you, my 2016 is white and after getting the gutter moulding, I realized I couldn't paint it and sent them back. Also, just got in the plastic retainers and realized that I don't need those either as the 2016 already has the "short ones" as you mentioned. If anybody needs those, let me know -$20 plus mailing.

      -Frank
       
      Last edited by a moderator: May 18, 2016
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    3. peterk9

      peterk9 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Welcome to the Forum Pepper2829.:wavey:

      Peter
       
    4. Pepper2829

      Pepper2829 New Member

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      Thanks Peterk9!
      Been around for a while, just had no need to post.
      Was a member of the ranger station for years
      Usually hang out on a couple of the other Ford forums.

      Nice to see other Canadians on here :thumbsup:
       
    5. TRWXXA

      TRWXXA Member

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      Can anyone who has done this mod, AND got the long, straight trim pieces from Ford that fill the roof gutter post a close-up pic of the end of it. The parts I got online from a Ford dealer (which happens to get a lot of recommendations on this forum, by the way) seem different from the trim pieces on the Interceptor SUVs I have seen.

      Are the trim pieces rigid, semi-rigid or flexible? The ones I got are very flexible and came coiled up in a box. They were wrapped in packaging that is not like the usual Ford OEM packaging I am used to. The part number was essentially printed on a large Avery address label. On the vehicle it doesn't sit level with the roof line and shows every high and low spot in the gutter. It just doesn't look very good, or original. It makes me want to put the roof rack rails back on.

      I am concerned that I got counterfeit parts, and paid a lot of money for them. I know automobile trim pieces are usually very pricey -- probably because they are often paid for by insurance companies (and why not gouge them on the price?). But I am gonna be extremely pissed if they took some $2/ft. generic rubber trim, sealed it in brown paper and plastic, stuck a part number on it, and charged me the OEM price.
       
    6. Pepper2829

      Pepper2829 New Member

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      TRWXXA....
      Gitme in post 44 (page 2 I think) has a factory interceptor and has some good pics. Ends are finished nice.
      All the reading I have done on the "OEM/Ford" gutter filler strip is that
      1. its expensive and
      2. when ppl get it, it looks like generic door moulding crap comparable to stuff bought at Lowes.
      So, you may have got Ford stuff...you didn't mention where you bought it...you may not have. What you described though is what any description I have heard about it. For generic looking crap, I wasn't will to spend that kind of coin on it.

      I know you asked for someone that has used it, but I did a lot of reading on it before ordering parts (not just this forum)
      Just my 2 cents
       
    7. TRWXXA

      TRWXXA Member

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      Mine is the top one.

      [​IMG]

      [​IMG]

      They don't look very much alike, do they?

      I did not mention from where I bought it, but it is a dealer/parts supplier that gets recommended a lot on this forum.

      Not sure I am going to handle it yet, but I'm pretty steamed that they would slip crap from Pep Boys in place of OEM parts, and charge the OEM price.

      Why is it that car dealers have the reputation of being lying-@ss sleazebags?

      Just wondering.
       
    8. La-rue

      La-rue New Member

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      The differing angles angles of the pics makes for a bad comparison. Your pic is from a lower angle that will always show more detail in the surface, as far as smoothness goes.
       
    9. TRWXXA

      TRWXXA Member

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      Look at the ends. One is an unfinished T-shaped cross section. The other is a finished rectangular cross section.

      But thank you for playing. We have some lovely parting gifts for you, including "The Devil's in the Details" home game.
       
    10. La-rue

      La-rue New Member

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      Oh okay I see that now. Didn't notice that in the lower pic. Main thing that caught my eye was the "bumpiness" of yours, which could also be the case with the lower one, but like I said, from the angle of that pic it's hard to tell.
       
    11. Pepper2829

      Pepper2829 New Member

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      From what I remember when I went snooping at the back of the dealership when the first batch of Interceptors came in, that moulding seemed to be more of a stiff plastic like foam (?) with a bit of give. Your T-moulding looks like hard plastic, which like you said, would tend distort in heat.
      At first glance, yours looked alright, filled the gap nice, but the waviness and the unfinished end certainly doesn't look oem :(
       
    12. TRWXXA

      TRWXXA Member

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      Nope. They are flexible rubber, like something you'd buy off the roll, by the foot at Pep Boys.
       
    13. arred79

      arred79 New Member

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      I am in the process of converting my 2013 to a slicktop and removing the roof rack, I love the actual Ford moulding strips used on the utility interceptors that run the full length of the roof, gives it a nice finished look. And although they are quite pricey, to anyone that has actually gone ahead and ordered them, how do they attach?
       
      Last edited: August 5, 2016
    14. micafd3s

      micafd3s New Member

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      I just bought and installed just the front trim piece.. used the stock clip underneath and just painted them black since the new trim piece did not have the rubber sides like the stock ones to cover it up and was showing a bit..
      you don't have to get a new clip nor cut the existing one... so if you wanted to reverse.. you would be able to
      it does give a slight bulge in the mid section but not noticeable..
       
    15. BillyG2014Sport

      BillyG2014Sport Member

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      I am very interested in this mod. I love the way the Range Rover Sport looks without a roof rack. I never see anyone using there XS roof rack or with cross bars installed. To bad Ford didn't make them all slick tops and make us purchase the entire assembly if we wanted a rack. The Sport should have came with a factory slick top.
      Has anyone priced what the dealer would charge to order the parts and install them for you. It sounds pretty simple according to some members however also seems like everyone is ordering different parts and having issues with bolts and clips. I'm sure the Ford dealership would have to eat any mistakes with wrong parts ordered or problems encountered when they are installing it. There is nothing like dropping your car off and picking it up with the work completed for you exactly the way it is supposed to be with out having to rig anything. That way if any issued arrise later on you can bring it back to Ford and get them to fix it. I am sure labor would cost a fortune!
       
    16. ibuytoys

      ibuytoys Elite Explorer

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      Just deleted the roof rack tonight on my new '17 Sport and love how it looks! Used the front trim pieces from the Interceptor and plugged the holes with black nylon plugs and RTV. If anyone is looking for like new roof rack system, gloss black in color, send me a PM.
       
    17. CommandPresence

      CommandPresence Elite Explorer

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      I am looking to ADD a roof rack to my Explorer PI, does anyone have one in good shape available with all hardware? Please PM Me
       
    18. Medic1592

      Medic1592 New Member

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      Those are factory that you got. According to the instructions that come with those rail mouldings you are supposed to pipe 3M adhesive sealant in the channel first. It fills underneath the molding. That's why it's a t shape and not totally flat on the bottom. The moulding floats a little, smoothing it out some. It's obvious in the interceptor pics that are posted. There's even the sealant under the hockey stick in the front to hold it down.
       
    19. LROB75

      LROB75 New Member

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    20. blob19

      blob19 Member

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      I am also, but I've never had a vehicle with roof rails before. Are the side rails even necessary with an aftermarket system like Yakima's SkyLine?
       
    21. peterk9

      peterk9 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Welcome to the Forum.:wave:
      Not sure what you want to carry but as per the Manual, maximum weight is 45 lbs with a moonroof and 100 lbs without.

      Peter
       
    22. _mp

      _mp New Member

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      Does anyone have a video of instructions and pictures on how to remove the roof rails?

      I've done a lot of searching within the forum with no luck :(
       
    23. Pepper2829

      Pepper2829 New Member

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      It's really not all that difficult.
      If you can do an oil change, you can do this.
      Get a step stool out, remove all the screws, lift off. Take your time as to not scratch anything.
      As far as sealing the holes, that's up to you.
      If you scroll back I listed some stainless screws and metal/rubber washers. Worked awesome, we had the worst winter in over 20 years, no issues (remember to use anti-seize with stainless). As far as silicone or rtv seal...I've always been told to keep that stuff away from body panels as they promote rust...if you are going to go that route, use windshield adhesive.
      As long as the screws are sealed it's up to you whether you use that black moulding. We have a Tri-coat white Explorer, so I opted not to use that, I love the look. Also saved a bunch of cash.
       
    24. _mp

      _mp New Member

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      Thank you!

      I guess what I really want to know is what is the process of removing the roof rails and plastic trim?

      I have a 2015 and don't see any screws. Should I be using a pry tool?
       
    25. Pepper2829

      Pepper2829 New Member

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      My apologies. Not as simple as I posted last night...but almost.
      I forgot what was all involved..but still pretty simple.
      I had to go dig out the parts I took off to remember. There's a plastic cover at each end that needs to be popped off.
      There's a single clip underneath at each end. They generally take a little effort to pop loose, can be unnerving. Have you ever taken your overhead console off? Same type of clip.
      Pry up on the outermost end of the plastic caps, should be straight forward then. Once bolts are out, you need to slide bar forward to disconnect from center support.
      I took a pic of the underside of those caps, but can't figure out how to upload.
      You can PM me your email and I can you you it if you want to see it.
       
    26. peterk9

      peterk9 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      See also post #25. Unfortunately the pictures have disappeared. That is what happens when you use a 3rd party posting site since they aren't saved to our servers. Frustrating.:(

      Peter
       

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