Runs ROUGH when warm

[TechGuy82]

Hey all! I have a '95 explorer with 163,000 miles on it. Just got it like a week ago, and now that I have the 31's on it, am starting to drive it. Now, I notice when the truck has been driven for like 15 minutes, it starts running real rough, and if you give it some gas it boggs down real bad. I just replaced the plugs and wires on it a couple days ago because it was running rough all the time. Also the engine light comes on sporatically, today when I drove it to work and it started running REAL rough, the CEL came on. it has come on in the past, and I took it to autozone for code reading, but it kept coming up with link error. maybe their tool was bad? Anyways, I want to take it up camping this weekend, but want to get it running right! Any suggestions would be appreciated.

-Thanks!!!

 

[BuffaloXplorer]

Find another autozone to get it scanned. Could be egr related, but there are so many things that could cause a rough-runnin (warm) x

With that many miles, regardless of who owned it before you - the fuel filter would be a good place to start

 

[TechGuy82]

Wow! that makes pretty good sense, I will try another autozone and I have a fuel filter I have not yet changed. Yeah, there was an egr valve tucked away in the storage container in the back, like it was going to get replaced but no one ever got around to it. You think THAT EGR valve would be good to use? I have no idea how long it has been rattling around in the back of the truck there.

Thanks for such rapid response!

 

[aldive]

Definately get the code(s) scanned.

Good luck ........

 

[BuffaloXplorer]

Wow! that makes pretty good sense, I will try another autozone and I have a fuel filter I have not yet changed. Yeah, there was an egr valve tucked away in the storage container in the back, like it was going to get replaced but no one ever got around to it. You think THAT EGR valve would be good to use? I have no idea how long it has been rattling around in the back of the truck there.

Thanks for such rapid response!

Who knows if that valve is any good, but chances are that if it looks new, no pitting of the metal or rust spots, it's probably something the prev owner never addressed and would be OK to use if necessary. For the fuel filter you need a special (inexpensive) fuel-line fitting tool to release the filter.

HOWEVER - even if you get a code and it calls out an eGR problem (i.e.401,402 - flow insufficient/excessive) - it may not be the valve itself. EGR system faults can be caused by a few items: EGR valve, Differential Pressure Feedback sensor (DPFE) and associated hoses, EGR Vacuum regulator (EVR), or carboned-up manifold tube (leads to egr valve).

If you pull one of these codes for egr, and have the money, buy the DPFE sensor and associated hoses (EEC-rated high-temp hoses - i think one is 1/4" inner Diameter and the other is 3/8" - double check though - approx. 1' of each) - it's literally a 5-minute fix.

The valve replace is harder and requires a 1 1/16" open-end wrench. A crows-foot wrench works best b/c of the limited space:

FYI - there is a group-buy on a code scanner/performance monitor going on now. Look at the classifieds in the group-buy section.

 

[Lloyd10977]

Even if you have compete maintenance records on your X, you should assume that whatever preventive maintenance is required was not done. Change all of the filters and fluids. Use a fuel injector cleaner. Change the thermostat. Change the radiator hoses. Change all of the rubber vacuum hoses. (The hard plastic ones seem to last forever, but check eack of THEM anyway for cracks or worn spots.) Change the wires and plugs. Clean the IAC. Use SEAFOAM. Check the accessory belt and replace it if there is even the slightest visible wear. Buy a new belt whether you need to replace it or not and keep it next to your jack along with the cheapest 3/8 drive breaker bar you can find for R&R of the belt.

 

[TechGuy82]

Took the Explorer for drive during lunch just a little while ago, and it seems to be worse. I wonder if it isn't the fuel pump because there is like a1/4 tank of gas in the thing. when I got it there was 3/4 tank and wasn't as bad. Now, if I give it WOT it pretty much just stalls out and dies. if it is revved up to 3k, it's fine, after that it just bucks and sounds terrible. The CEL didn't come on at all during this testing, but will take it to Autozone after work. (hope it'll make it!) It was having problems with the fuel pump relay last week, but I swapped that out and started and ran alright after that...

 

[snocross1985]

FYI - there is a group-buy on a code scanner/performance monitor going on now. Look at the classifieds in the group-buy section.

He has no use for that. 95's are still OBD1, not OBDII as required by that device.

Deffinitley get the codes checked before throwing money at the problem...

 

[TechGuy82]

So this one is still an obdI? I though all the OBDII models had the receptacle to hook up to under the steering wheel? Mine has that plug in. If it is OBDI, the generic reader that I have for my Dad's 94' explorer should work on mine, right?

 

[TheJMan]

The 1995 models have the OBD-II port under the steering wheel but still use the OBD-I electronics. When you mentioned that you took it to Autozone and they couldn't scan codes because of a link error, that is because that port doesn't connect to anything. The OBD-I connectors are located on the passenger side right above the tire. There should be one large connector and a small gray one.

Yes, you will need an OBD-I connector to read the codes.

 

[Lloyd10977]

So this one is still an obdI? I though all the OBDII models had the receptacle to hook up to under the steering wheel? Mine has that plug in. If it is OBDI, the generic reader that I have for my Dad's 94' explorer should work on mine, right?

All '95 X's are still OBD-I.

 

[TechGuy82]

Well, the X wouldn't even make it home yesterday! I had park it in a lot for a while because it was running REAL bad, like it wouldn't even make it up tiny hills. My pops and I ran a pressure test on the fuel system and it barely creeped up to 28 psi at idle. After towing it home we replaced the fuel filter and checked the pressure. I just tried turning the key a bunch of times without starting it to get the pressure up.... It wouldn't get abouve 5 psi. Now it won't start at all, or if it does, just sputters and dies. I am now VERY confident it's the fuel pump. So I get to tackle that today. Anyone have suggests for removing the gas and pulling the Tank? I can always just search through these threads and find an explaination of it. I'll keep you guys posted on the progress and I really appreciate all the responses and knowledge you have bestowed to me!!!

 

[TechGuy82]

Well, on Friday, I replaced the pump (only took like 8 hours). That a was a pain.
Now the truck runs smooth and had a blast taking it 4 wheeling on saturday up at Guanella Pass!!