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School me on BW4405

Discussion in 'Transmissions & Transfer Cases' started by RickOTR, August 28, 2017.

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    1. RickOTR

      RickOTR Active Member

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      Been having a constant clunking when slowing down in gear whether I'm braking or not. When I put it in neutral, it doesn't do it. So far I've disconnected the ABS and unplugged the 4x4 relay and it's really helped. However, it's still there just not as bad. I also noticed that when I back up now, it makes a clunking noise unless I plug the relay back in. I also can't hear the click when I put it in 4x4 high, but it will click in 4x4 low. There is no play in transfer case or differential. U joints front or back have never been replaced. Any ideas?
       
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    3. RickOTR

      RickOTR Active Member

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      Well, I think I found my problem. After reading post after post here on the forms, I decided to install a new TPS sensor and what do ya know, no more clunk!. It's been a whole week and so far no clunking from the front or the trans/transfer case area. I'm crossing my fingers this is the cure...
       
    4. bigred4x4

      bigred4x4 Elite Explorer

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      It's crazy we post the same issue the same day did you test your old tps? Mine seems to test good might try replacing it anyway because that clunk is very annoying.
       
    5. WormsExplorer

      WormsExplorer Elite Explorer

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      My Daughters 97 Sport 4.0 does the same. But it is when I am Turning. I disconnected front Drive lone and it does not do the Clunking. I chalk it up to Needing a new Transfer case so I was gonna get a manual 1354 for her.
       
    6. bigred4x4

      bigred4x4 Elite Explorer

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      I wouldn't call the case dead just yet especially if 4wd still works it could be a few other things.

      What scares me is in my post I mentioned play in the rear output shaft after some research I find that a problem with these units is the output shaft bearings wearing causing excessive play (bigger tires can accelerate this) I hope I'm not looking at a rebuild soon not to mention it has popped out of 4 Low once or twice. If so I'm really not sure if I want to hold on to this or go to 1354 manual
       
    7. WormsExplorer

      WormsExplorer Elite Explorer

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      Not sure what happen to her transfer case I got it that way. Great Condition for $800. Just transfer case Clunks really good when I have the front Drive line in. Seeing as how she wants to do some trails with me I want her to have the Manuel 1354 or at least a E1354 from a 1sg gen. I had a 92 and that one when almost every where I pointed her. Well until there was a rock taller then her Belly LOL. But I want to get it either pulled and figure out what is going on or just get it out and replace with a manual 1354
       
    8. bigred4x4

      bigred4x4 Elite Explorer

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      I looked into a proper rebuild for the 4405 especially with this problem and it's not cheap! At what it would cost you could buy a certified reman unit with these problems addressed and taking care of for a little more just $995 ...... Manual 1354 for me when mine craps out I like them better anyway no clutch to send power to the front.

      Also looking into these issues I found another issue caused by the 4405 that has me concerned when I'm driving and let off the gas and coast it drops out of gear after a second or two and resumes when I give it gas but the transition is so smooth and flawless with no clunking I always thought this was normal am I wrong?
       
    9. bigred4x4

      bigred4x4 Elite Explorer

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      And it's not completely out of gear (like being in nuetral)it sits around 1100 rpm when this happens
       
    10. RickOTR

      RickOTR Active Member

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      My problem only went away for a week or so and is now back. I've heard the CV joint on the front drive shaft wears out after time and needs to be replaced. I've never done u joints so it looks like that will be on my to do list. If all else fails I'll try the Omega fix and buy the rear transfer case housing. There's a thread on it here on the forum.
       
    11. bigred4x4

      bigred4x4 Elite Explorer

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      Mine doesn't have cv joints in the drive shaft it's all u joints, double cardon up front but this truck is on its second 4405 the second being from a salvage yard so I imagine it was only going to last but so long (10 years now though!) after seeing how much it cost to rebuild ...I mean I'll tear mine apart when the time comes and hopefully it won't be not so bad in that case I'll rebuild and reinstall but if it shows signs of every problem there known for then it'll be cheaper and better in the long run to switch to a manual 1354. But we'll see just tested it last night it still works great but we'll see how long that last.
       
    12. RickOTR

      RickOTR Active Member

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      Tore the front end apart today and this is what I found.

      1) CV Joint and U Joint on front drive shaft are loose, so much that I can make it clank when I shake it. Deciding whether I want to go with a completely new drive shaft or just rebuild it.

      2) Both half shafts have enough play in them to where I can make them clank too.

      3) Rear drive shaft and out put shaft are solid. No play anywhere. However, I will just replace the U joint's just as a preventative measure.

      4) Front axle bushings on drivers and passengers side are allowing the axle to move.

      5) The rest of the truck looks good.

      Does anyone know what u joints my Explorer takes both front and rear. I came out with Moog 369 front, and 354 rear. Sound right?
       
    13. Mbrooks420

      Mbrooks420 High Voltage. Elite Explorer

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      If rebuilding the shaft, make sure to buy a quality joint. And don't bother with a cheap remanned shaft from an auto store, it will fail in very short order. Having a quality driveline shop rebuild it costs about the same as the auto store junk.
       
    14. RickOTR

      RickOTR Active Member

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      Found my problem. It was the front and rear U Joints and the CV Joint on the front drive shaft. They were freezing up when I moved them around so I went ahead and rebuilt both shafts. No more clunk so far after two weeks of driving. For anyone planning on changing their U Joints here's the part numbers.

      Non-Greasable:
      Spicer-5-785X (Front)
      Spicer-5-790X (Rear)

      Greasable:
      Spicer-5-153X (Front)
      Spicer-5-213X (Rear)

      CV Joint:
      Spicer 032SG80002
       

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