Servo O-Ring Mod A Permanent Fix For 5R55? | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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If you do decide to go the AJ1E Servo route, drop me a PM. I bought it a couple of weeks ago and ended up having the transmission completely rebuilt. I have the servos, clips, and lubricant that I can sell you at a good deal.

So it is new and untouched? I am about to pull the trigger. Does this include the modified C clamps that hold the servo covers in place? Is your transmission rebuild going to include the brass sleeves in the bore holes? How good of a fix is that compared to the O-rings?
 



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So it is new and untouched? I am about to pull the trigger. Does this include the modified C clamps that hold the servo covers in place? Is your transmission rebuild going to include the brass sleeves in the bore holes? How good of a fix is that compared to the O-rings?

Completely new and unused. Has the modified C clamps, lubricant, and modified tool (right angle pliers). I paid over $250 shipped, and I can make you a great deal on all of that.

My transmission was completely rebuilt by Leon’s Transmission in Costa Mesa. This includes a new torque converter and drilling out the Servo bores and installing the sleeves. It was spendy (my wallet hurts something fierce). But in the grand scheme of things, it’s probably the right way to go if you plan to put another 100K+ miles on your Explorer.

The O-ringed servos are a good temporary solution for 50-100K Miles. You can change out the O rings (extra set includes in kit) and get more mileage out of the transmission, but at some point, the bands and other bits will wear out. FWIW, my Explorer has 247K Miles on it, and the bands were well worn per the shop.
 






Would you go that route again, versus, say, a unit from Street Smart Transmissions?
 






For me, I’d go the route of the local shop again. The Street Smart Transmission looks like it might be a good unit also (and has a better warranty than what I got. I have 2 year, 24,000 mile warranty), but then you’d have to find a shop that would be willing to perform the install. I am sure there are shops out there and it wouldn’t be hard to find, but I just went with the “one stop solution.” It’s worth a few bucks more to me to have a shop that I can stop in at if there’s a problem.
 






Completely new and unused. Has the modified C clamps, lubricant, and modified tool (right angle pliers). I paid over $250 shipped, and I can make you a great deal on all of that.

What would you sell it for?
 












I found someone local who is willing to help with the servo install, but he wanted me to get it diagnosed before I throw money at it. Many people have recommended Greenville Transmission Clinic to me. I went there this morning and they told me it has to be rebuilt. They showed me a piece of metal that was in the pan. they did confirm my belief that the transmission had been serviced in the past.

I do think the servos and solenoid pack are part of the problem, but I now think other things may also be wrong. It slips out of gear, but not when my foot is on the pedal. Going up a hill, it slammed back into gear very violently. That was kinda scary. They said it's skipping 2nd and that 2 and 5 are out. I was not aware of that being the case because I manually take-off in "2" to avoid the problem shifting from 1st. It's taking off is some gear and going through 3 of them. I am taking off in "2", manually shifting to "3", then to "D" and getting 3 gears out of that. I haven't started from dead stop in "D" in a while, so it could be behaving differently than I previously described.

They quoted me $2,200-$2,800 for a rebuild, and that includes correcting design flaws that the original transmission has. I'm considering that. I just got a decent job, but it'll be a couple of weeks before I start getting paid. Then, I'll just throw money at the problem.

Some people say it's not worth fixing. I'm not going to buy some ugly new car, Explorer or otherwise. It's insane how expensive a new car is that's nowhere near as nice as mine. I don't want FWD if I can help it. I might consider a 1990's Buick LeSabre or Park Avenue with the 3800, or maybe an AE101 Corolla with a 7AFE.
 






I forgot to mention that they also got a P1744 code which is TCC performance. I saw that once and then after clearing the computer's memory, it didn't re-appear, so I didn't think that was an issue. They also said it's low on fluid. I also wasn't aware of that being the case. I don't believe there are any leaks.
 






Honestly, I’d do the rebuild. Least amount of issues, and ypu’ll Have a transmission that should last you 150-200K miles. And tou’d Have something your vehicle that you know was maintained well. Nothing stinks as bad as surprises that crop up from used cars that prior owners “forget” to tell you about!
 






Nothing stinks as bad as surprises that crop up from used cars that prior owners “forget” to tell you about!

Ain't it the truth!
 






I think I'm going to get that tranny rebuilt with the most rugged upgrades and mods available. Level Ten good? I'd rather spend a little extra and get it done right and not have to do it again for a long time. I'd also rather fix this vehicle than buy another one I don't know. I would keep my eyes open for a decent 1st Gen if one comes available.
 






Level 10 is good, but they specialize in race transmissions. Had it in Mustang and dang if it didn’t shift hard enough to screech the tires in the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts! Any good rebuild should do you fine. I think a good (larger) transmission cooler might work better than super heavy duty components.
 






Had it in Mustang and dang if it didn’t shift hard enough to screech the tires in the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts!

My kinda transmission...
 






I think a good (larger) transmission cooler might work better than super heavy duty components.

What components, besides the servos and the solenoid body are the most critical to upgrade? How much of the 5R55's problems can be corrected by a big cooler and maybe more religious and frequent maintenance. My transmission has been serviced in the past, but I don't know when. I only have had it for a little less than 2 years.
 






I think you have the most critical parts:

1. Servo bores - do what the factory didn’t... bore out and install a bronze sleeve that won’t wear like aluminum.
2. Solenoid body - really isn’t needed unless there’s a problem, but let your rebuilder confirm if that needed replacement
3. Bands... have the shop check if worn and replace (actually, have the replace since they’re in there already anyway.

But given the smallish transmission cooler, maybe it might be good to check with your rebuilder on what they recommend for a transmission cooler.

In terms of “correcting” the issues - most is related to the servos, so I think you’ll have taken care of most of the problems there. Solenoids is next, but you can replace that without removing the transmission, so I’m less concerned about that. I do think that a fluid change every 50K miles is a good idea, and any kind of towing or heavy loads (full vehicle) would make me want to add that transmission cooler.
 












Ditto, more ATF total is good long term, a deep pan, the filter etc. The available VB parts are the most important for long life, Sonnax is a big help for us. Check those out.
 












If you do decide to go the AJ1E Servo route, drop me a PM. I bought it a couple of weeks ago and ended up having the transmission completely rebuilt. I have the servos, clips, and lubricant that I can sell you at a good deal.
Did you ever sell those servos?
 



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