SOHC V6 Supercharger

The purpose of this thread is to discuss the design and possible development and installation of a supercharger for my 2000 Sport SOHC V6 engine. I have no first hand experience with forced induction systems and want to learn from forum members that have them on their vehicles. While I don't plan to implement a turbocharger system, there are many problems common to all types of forced induction systems.

The easiest and least expensive solution would be to modify a Ranger SOHC V6 Banshee kit and purchase a used Thunderbird supercoupe positive displacement blower. However, the kit makes no provisions for an aftercooler which I think is beneficial even with only 5 psi of boost.

The Explorer Express supercharger kit includes a quality looking manifold but one is very difficult to obtain.

Once again, there are no provisions for an aftercooler.

I suspect the best solution for me would be a centrifugal supercharger with a water aftercooler. With my oil coolers and remote filters I have very little room in front of the radiator for an intercooler. I am interested in a boost in the range of 5 to 8 psi - enough for a significant performance increase but not so much to adversely impact reliability and require beefing up of engine internals or the transmission/torque converter.

Procharger sells a kit for the 2005 - 2010 Mustang V6.

But the Mustang configuration is opposit to the Explorer - intake on left and battery on right. Also, there is a lot more room between the engine front and the radiator rear on the Mustang than on the Explorer.


Vortech also makes a kit for the Mustang but there are the same problems.

The logical location for a centrifugal supercharger is the same side as the air filter box and intake manifold inlet port. Unfortunately, that is where the alternator is located. I'm investigating the possibility of replacing the belt driven power steering pump with an electric motor driven pump and then relocating the alternator to the old power steering pump location.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Fuel pressure/temperature sensor

Based on internet explanations I've found on the 3rd generation fuel pressure/temperature sensor I assumed it was two simple devices: a pressure transducer with a variable resistance output and a thermistor similar to the engine coolant temperature sensor. The four pin electrical connector reinforced my assumption: two contacts for the pressure transducer and two contacts for the thermistor. Yesterday I measured pin to pin resistances to determine which two were associated with the pressure transducer. I was surprised that there were different resistance values for all pin-to-pin pairs so I searched the internet for the Bosch part number data sheet. I learned that the sensor is a fairly sophisticated device with only one output: relative pressure. The temperature probe is used internally by the active device (requires +5 vdc) to compensate the pressure output signal that is proportional to the pressure difference between the fuel port and the air port. Since the air port is used as a pressure reference I'm surprised that Ford connects it to the vacuum side of the throttle body plate. Connecting it upstream of the throttle plate would provide fairly constant pressure except for altitude changes. However, I've decided to follow Ford's example and connect mine to the vacuum side which varies significantly. The vacuum may prevent dirt and moisture from contaminating the pressure reference side of the sensor. The data sheet specifies the working pressure limit of the sensor as 500 kPa (72.5 psi). A vacuum of 22 inches of Hg equates to -3.9 psi relative to atmosphere so my 67 psi (72 psi with new fuel rails according to fuel block gauge) is approaching the limit of the sensor. I need to install a PWM motor controller to drop the fuel pressure to 65 psi. I may go even lower. I found a quote posted on the internet from the 2004 Explorer/Mountaineer Workshop Manual stating that the normal fuel pressure with the ignition on and the engine running or not running is 30 to 40 psi.

 

[Carguy3J]

You could probably reproduce the "power dome" / Edge style look, by using a pair of 2" tall cowl induction style scoops. You would either need to find 2 fairly narrow width ones, or cut and section wider ones to the appropriate width. Fiberglass them onto the existing Explorer hood, and cut away the Explorer metal where needed for clearance. That would be a whole lot easier then all kinds of cutting/welding of fenders,etc..

 

[2000StreetRod]

cowl induction style scoops

Are you suggesting something like the photo below?

They would have to be fairly close together since the blower snout is not offset a lot.

It might look odd with the scoops so close together.

 

[Carguy3J]

Are you suggesting something like the photo below?
.........
They would have to be fairly close together since the blower snout is not offset a lot.
......
It might look odd with the scoops so close together.

Not really. I was thinking a cowl induction scoop, just a fairly short one (2-2.5"), not a monsterous one seen on drag car.


The easiest would just be a single wide one in the middle of your hood. I was just suggesting it might be doable to cut and modify two side-by-side to replicate the gap in the front of the Edge hood you posted previously.

ExplorerExpress apparently still offers a full fiberglass hood, with what looks like a 2-2/12" cowl. Its pricey, at about $500, but it would do the trick, look nice, and save some weight off the front end (which might improve your MPG and improve the front to rear weight bias and improve handling)
http://www.explorerexpress.com/cowl-induction-hood-9501-explorer-p-877.html

 

[snoranger]

http://fiberpartsconcepts.com/1344116.html


CHA-344... It's a direct fit for your sport. $450.

 

[2000StreetRod]

another possibility

OK, thanks guys. When it comes to body parts and mods I'm basically ignorant. To me the induction cowl is just the opposite to what I need. It's low in the front and high in the back. I only need a little height in the front. Physically something like the one below from Jegs should be adequate.

It measures: 2-1/2" high x 14" wide x 17-3/8" long. It's rounded on the top with no center seam that sorta matches my stock hood. I'd like to find one with an opening similar to a smaller vertical mirror image of my grille opening.
On second thought, maybe not.

For some reason it makes me think of a pig's face.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Coffee perculator/refrigerator

I finally finished installing the intercooler core with connections and performed a leak test.

During the five minute test I observed no leaks at any of the connections which was no surprise since the system is not pressurized. The sound of the intercooler system reminds me of coffee perculating next to a running refrigerator. The perculator sound comes from the input/output flow in the coolant reservoir. The intercooler pump motor is at least twice as loud as the Aeromotive fuel pump.

One advantage of my "open" system is I can turn the pump on and off for dyno testing and not worry about the system exploding. If the coolant gets hot enough to boil it will just vent into the unpressurized reservoir. That way I can easily measure the IATs for cooled and not cooled during performance testing.

 

[rpcaster]

She looks pretty clean!
If you get chance could you send me this picture in high resolution?

 

[jd4242]

How does air get to the back two cylinders? ? Looks like the core support blocks the off? Does the core sit flush on the bottom of the case?

 

[2000StreetRod]

photo sent

Ronald, I am very pleased with the intercooler installation so far. I'm anxious to find out how everything works but have decided to clean up the M90 and replace the coupler, snout seal and oil before installing it. The paint was peeling so I applied paint stripper to the outside today. I'll start brushing it down to bare metal tomorrow. I'm not going to paint it.

 

[2000StreetRod]

depth of core

How does air get to the back two cylinders? ? Looks like the core support blocks the off? Does the core sit flush on the bottom of the case?

Good question! I asked Ronald the same thing. The dept of the core is less than the height of the manifold by the height of the stop. That was one of the issues that made it difficult to find a core. It had to be the correct depth to allow airflow underneath and cover the blower output opening. It was a trade off between cooling capacity and airflow restriction. I think the assumption is that the entire manifold will be pressurized during boost and the air will flow into which ever port is open when an intake valve is open. If there is restricted flow to the back cylinders it will be difficult to determine with my PowerFlash because both banks should be equally affected. If there is a large flow difference the PCM may detect it and set a misfire DTC for those cylinders. I plan to monitor the spark plugs to see if the rear plugs show any differences compared to the front plugs.

 

[rpcaster]

How does air get to the back two cylinders? ? Looks like the core support blocks the off? Does the core sit flush on the bottom of the case?

There is aprox 7-sq" of open area below heater core to supply back 2-inlets, as support is only as thick as the heater core, with void below.

 

[jd4242]

There is aprox 7-sq" of open area below heater core to supply back 2-inlets, as support is only as thick as the heater core, with void below.

Figured there was.from the pictures It looked like he rtv the core support plate in and it went all the way to the bottom sealing off the rear section.thats a pretty big looking core also, should work well

 

[2000StreetRod]

"comb" gasket

My 75 mm throttle body output port inside diameter is about 3/32" larger than its associated tube adapter.

Therefore I need a fairly thick tapered gasket to "soften" the transition. Remember the stock "comb" gasket that fit between the throttle body and the upper intake manifold. I found my old one in the storage room. It's about 5/32" thick and has protrusions that match my Ford prototype throttle body recessions.

I'll grind out the "comb teeth" and enlarge and taper the inner diameter to match the two different bores.

 

[4pointslow]

Frpt

2000streetrod,
Post 342 about the FRPT,
Don't hook the vacuum line up to the sensor if you want to use it to measure real fuel pressure. The vacuum line was only used to lower fuel pressure when there is intake vacuum sucking on the injectors. On Ford vehicles this sensor was only used on electronic returnless fuel systems in where the pcm duty cycled the fuel pump to control pressure. The vacuum skews the reading off the sensor to make the pcm lower duty cycle to the pump. If there was aprox 20 inches of vacuum the fuel pressure would be about 10 psi lower in the rail than it would be reading on the sensor.
Just leave it unblocked with no vacuum line to it if you are using it to measure fuel pressure.
The FRT (temp sensor) is an NTC thermistor like most of the temperature sensors used. It shares a common pcm ground with the pressure sensor, that's why there are 4 wires instead of 5.
See attached picture, and forgive my crude Microsoft paint skills. Also the resistance values in the voltage divider circuit might be wrong. I suffer from CRS. (cant remember stuff).

 

[2000StreetRod]

avoid vacuum connection advice

Thanks for the advice and schematic. I quoted your post on the thread I've started about using the sensor to control fuel pressure: Electronic fuel pressure controller . I'll either cap the reference port or vent it to filtered atmosphere.

 

[2000StreetRod]

metal thermostat housing

Yesterday, just after I finished installing the M90 I received an email notifying me that the metal thermostat housings with holes for the ECT sensor and the engine coolant temperature sender are finally available. This is the configuration needed for the 2nd generation SOHC V6 with the analog instrument cluster. The single hole housings for the Mustangs and 4th generation Explorers have one temperature sensor that sends data to the PCM which then sends data to the digital instrument cluster. So far my plastic housing doesn't leak and I epoxied the brass fittings to the housing to prevent them from turning a couple years ago when I had the engine out for timing chain repairs. However, I realize that currently the plastic housing is probably the weakest link in my cooling system. A week ago I would have ordered one without hesitation but right now I don't want to wait for one and I don't know if I can replace the housing without removing the front fuel lines.

Edit: Since there are only 30 available and there's no telling how long for the next batch after the first 30 are sold I went ahead and ordered one. Now I have to purchase the clip in sensors, gasket and a new lower hose. More delays and expenditures.

 

[4pointslow]

Metal thermostat

Thanks for the heads up on the metal thermostat, I just ordered one too.
The one on my 4 door explorer started leaking, I replaced it with a cheap Dorman one only to have it leak 6 months later the night a major snow storm was starting. Luckily I have a 2000 ranger that I drove till the snow cleared and I could get the 4 door in the garage. I replaced the Dorman one with a Motorcraft one and that has held up for a couple years now. My supercharged explorer is still stock so it is due to go bad.
How far away from start up are you on your m90 build? The build thread is looking great, great detail and pictures too.

 

[2000StreetRod]

work remaining

I'm getting anxious to crank it up but still have lots to do first:

Install fuel rail hold downs
Perform fuel leak check
Install plenum.
Install EGR valve
Cut, modify & connect EGR tube
Make plenum adapter transition gasket
Make IACV & EVR mounting bracket
Splice IACV & EVR connectors/pigtails
Make throttle body adapter transition gasket
Make throttle linkage mounting bracket
Devise temporary intake filter

I won't wait for the boost gauge, fuel pump controller or throttle cable to be installed or the spark plugs to be regapped since there won't be any boost generated with the front end sitting on jack stands. If I can get the engine to run then I can check for wiring errors.

 

[2000StreetRod]

EGR issues

The Banshee kit is designed for the EGR valve to be mounted on the plenum.

In my case I felt it was too close to the spark plug wire and engine wire looms.

Even after turning it upside so the cooler diaphragm side was near the wiring I decided it was too close.

I was surprised that I could still get access to the driver side intercooler hose connection so I took it loose to all routing the loom below it (instead of above). Then I reconnected the intercooler hose, did a leak check, and installed a loom clamp.

I think I'll still mount the EGR valve inverted.