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Strange Test from message center

Discussion in 'Explorer, Ranger - Computers, Chips, Tuning' started by doubleDD, May 14, 2007.

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    1. doubleDD

      doubleDD New Member

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      additional TEST from message center

      now in 2nd EDIT:
      I found a little bit of info on how to repeat this TEST (in KOEO):
      http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1612845&postcount=2
      This link is a TSB provided by a member who obviously has Ford 'in-house' connections, being a technician's diagnosis about how to fix a fuel gauge slow-to-no reading problem.

      I have provided an excerpt of it here, below my original post as it relates to this message center 'condition', and how to step thru the message center TEST.

      ORIGINAL POST:
      I've been researching the heck out of this and can't find anything (I have now found a little info - see below the post). I recently bought my EB used. All has been well, but over several days, I started noticing 'little things' being different, intermittently, when I would start it up, several times over the course of the day...
      1. The message center, which normally came up with the last setting, would come up displaying the 'odometer only' cyle.
      2. The radio, which would normally come up wherever it was last (CD/track, radio/station) would not come on at all, and would not 'initialize' (I have to select the radio button FM/AM first which will turn on the radio, THEN select a CD to play).
      3. The headlights, on auto setting, sometimes work and sometimes don't. They also sometimes burn in daylight and sometimes not. They will always work properly after I have turned them to normal ON position and back to AUTO ON.
      4. Sometimes at startup, the guage needles will 'vibrate' for 5 seconds or so, then go to normal readings; sometimes they just go to normal readings without vibrating.
      5. gas mileage is droppig from 16.4 to 14.9 (unrelated, I now think).

      Surely, when the needles do the vibrating thing, I know that I will see the other issues described.

      Again, these things are intermittent. sometimes happen, sometimes don't.

      This all started couple of weeks ago, when out of the blue, when I cranked up (with all the intermittent symptoms above present for a week), the message center went into a completely different type of mode BY ITSELF (not the regular setup with oil life, etc) that started with the word "TEST". It sat there until I pressed reset, which caused the message center to take off into a proccess of sweeping all the guage dials, lighting up all the LEDs in the MC as a light test, then giving line by line info that I could step thru. I have since run a couple more tests on it since then, but from what I learned from the TSB, you can only run this test with the vehicle off (KOEO). Here's a list of all the parameters that appeared (again as the engine was RUNNING since this happened on its own):

      (Below is how to run this test on the message center)
      I am going to post the results and more info as soon as I learn to post a file on the site.

      (guage sweep)
      (LEDs test)
      Part# 4L2T-10849-CF
      Serial Number 0089643A
      Key B
      RomLevel 0501
      checksum 0000
      NVM01 0501
      checksum 0000
      Final Date 4E76
      Module config 11 04 C1 F6 00
      Diag Trouble code 9352
      Diag Trouble code 9318
      Diag Trouble code E013
      Diag Trouble code A659
      VSS 0.0 MPH, 0.0 KMH
      Tach 630+- (was reading tach while running)
      Fuel A/D 070 +- per 040 (was reading while running)
      Fuel Init Status 05
      Coolant Temp 92c (was reading while running)
      Odo Input 165
      Oil Press 000
      Brake Fluid 0
      Battery 14.0 (was reading while running)
      PMW Inp 000 Out 118
      Prndl 40
      Prk Brake 0 (pressing p-brake displays "G")
      FFlow 3??------ (didn't write it down while running; KOEO displays 0)
      Seat Belt 0 (connecting belt displays "G")
      PD 00002000 (value while running; display while KOEO 40002100)
      PortA 60h
      PortB c1h
      PortE 0Ch
      PortH 0oh
      PortJ 0ch
      PortK 8lh
      PortL 38h
      PortM 04h ('4' varies from 0-4)
      PortP 1oh
      PortS 07h
      PortT 98h
      PortU 00h
      PortV 00h
      PortW 00h
      PortAD0 FFh
      PortAD1 FFh
      (note the following 3 digit values varied, typically the available range is 000-255)
      (also note that with a little idle time/engine run time, the values marked * typically increased)
      PortAD00 000-001
      PortAD01 000-001*
      PortAD02 000-001
      PortAD03 000-003
      PortAD04 219-224
      PortAD05 000-001
      PortAD06 125-128*
      PortAD07 105-108*
      PortAD08 000-001
      PortAD09 000-001
      PortAD10 000-003
      PortAD11 000-005
      PortAD12 251-255
      PortAD13 126-128*
      PortAD14 115-118*
      PortAD15 254-255
      (END OD TEST, CAN TURN KEY OFF)

      After all this was displayed, it went back to its normal display mode. I dont know how it started, and I dont know how to make it happen again WHILE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING. I spoke with my mechanic and with the dealer service, and neither knew anything about this TEST. I took it to the dealer to find out what these atypical DTCs mean, and he did not know - had no info. They ran the normal scan that we all know, standard DTC's that start with P, U, B etc, and found no problems other than a little prob with the radio (so the radio problem I listed is unrelated). He says that the DTCs that show up in the message center must be "engineering" trouble codes, and that he can't get them (suggested that I call Ford Engineering to try and get them - I suggested HE do it, like they're gonna talk to me about it right?) He didn't know where to go from there. Also, he read a TSB to me about the gauge needles vibating, as being a normal condition.

      I've tried searching these atypical diag codes, and can not find anything anywhere about them. Sorry to be so lengthy with this, but hopefully someone will:

      a) know what this is about and why it happened on its own
      b) how to make it go thru this again while engine is running
      c) what the diag codes mean
      d) what I should do from here.

      Thanks in advance for any help guys.

      -------------------------
      Here's how to run the message center TEST:

      (Techs are referred to the "Workshop Manual" for additional info and procedures for the various DTC codes.)


      Engage the Instrument Cluster Self-Diagnostic Test Mode by pressing and holding the appropriate buttons for 4 seconds:

      2002-2006 - Base Cluster - Trip Odo Reset button
      2002-2005 - Message Center Cluster - SETUP and RESET Message Center buttons
      2006 - Message Center Cluster - RESET (only) Message Center button

      With the vehicle in park, turn the key to the run position key on/engine off (KOEO).

      Release the button(s):

      2002-2005 - Base Clusters will display "tESt"
      2002-2005 - Message Center Clusters will display "TEST"
      2006 - Clusters will indicate "ENGINEERING TEST MODE"
      NOTE: IF "ENGINEERING TEST MODE" IS NOT DISPLAYED, DEPRESS THE ODO RESET OR MESSAGE CENTER RESET BUTTON 1 OR MORE TIMES UNTIL THIS MESSAGE IS DISPLAYED.

      Press the RESET button once for each next step of the TEST.

      First, the guages will sweep, next the LEDs will light up, next is the info posted above. Continue pressing RESET for each next step. (see above)
      ----------------------------------

      Please, anyone who knows how to make this test happen while engine is running, I would love to know.

      Thanks,
       
      Last edited: May 16, 2007
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    3. doubleDD

      doubleDD New Member

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      I just posted a new edited version of the problem (above) with additional info I have found on how to run the message center TEST mode (not the normal simple "setup" test).

      It would be great if anyone else with an 02-06 model message center (cluster or base type) would try running the TEST to see what info you get. See toward the bottom of the freakin essay above of how to do the TEST.

      Thanks.
       
    4. neonarc77

      neonarc77 Member

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      I was sitting outside the Ob-Gyn's office yesterday waiting for my wife so I decided to give this a try.

      It worked just like you said it would, got the sam thing except for no trouble codes. However, after it said "Trouble Code 0000" the next message said "Check Engine 2".

      I decided to see if it would work with the engine running so I pressed the Setup and Reset than moved the key to On. The "Test" message came up and I started the engine without any problem. This time I got "Check Engine 1" and some of the data was live, think so since it was varying with the engine running.

      I wish I knew what all the data meant.

      Also, I noticed that it has a Coolant Temp output so I'm wondering if one of the messages is for the transmission temp. Since the manual says that you would get a message if the tranny overheats, I assume that means it has to have a temp sensor for the tranny, too, right? It would be great to be able to see the temp for the tranny under my usual driving conditions.

      By the way, the link in 2002-2005 stock explorers to this thread does not work. I will add it.
       
    5. FriscoSoxFan

      FriscoSoxFan New Member

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      Bump.

      I've been having the EXACT problems mentioned in this post. My 2004 explorer EB V8 just went into test mode on its own today.

      Did you ever find out the cause?
       
    6. doubleDD

      doubleDD New Member

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      still no additional info on the TEST mode

      I never did get any additional information than what I posted. Since I made the post many months back, I have learned that in extremely cold weather (specifically recently over the last month), it has been going back into this TEST mode on its own, which it has not done all summer and fall in the warmer weather. I can run the TEST with the engine on or off, as described in this post. Still though, I do not know what all the codes mean. You will get differing readings with the engine on, and with the engine off, as the engine on will give variable readings. It really can be a helpful test, IF we could find out what all the codes mean. I gave up trying to find them. Lemme know via this post if you can find them, or maybe know a tech that can help. As to WHY it goes into the TEST mode on its own is still a mystery. All I can figure as a simpleton non-mechanic is that with the cold, perhaps a connection somewhere down the line is contracting, closing a circuit, making the test mode run at startup... sounds silly maybe, but....

      Best,
      Edd
       
    7. claudhopper

      claudhopper New Member

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      Just Happened to Me

      just had a similar situation... I have had no problems with my explorer until now... my vehicle would not start last nigt and have been having some of the same things happening you listed above... then this morning I finally got it started but it is giving me the test mode with the errors... was anyone able to find out what the trouble codes 9352 or 9318 are??? or part 4L2T-10849-CF... also curious if you have been able to drive with no problems... wasn' sure if it was worth me putting in th shop or if this is just a wierd once in a while thing... thanks for any help...
      Claudia
       
    8. doubleDD

      doubleDD New Member

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      No New Info....

      Hi Claude.

      No, I never found any of the diag codes listed herein, nor has anyone posted them to my knowledge. Again, I feel pretty certain that cold weather has at least 'something' to do with mine dropping into TEST mode at will (which it still does during cold spells). You do not have to worry about driving - at least I haven't - and have had no problems. Again as I originally said, I brought mine in to the FORD shop about the TEST thing and the mechanic didn't know what to make of it, other than to tell me it is a manufacturer's kind of test or something. I'm just waiting for some sharp tech who knows about this and will kindly post info as to where to find these particular codes, or what they mean. I keep my settings here on the forum set to deliver me an email if someone responds, in hopes that someday soon my wish will come true with a response...

      BTW, When it drops into TEST mode, you can end it quickly by just holding down the RESET button until it quits the test mode. All will be fine.

      Best,
       
    9. FriscoSoxFan

      FriscoSoxFan New Member

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      Same here. Test mode appears only in the extreme cold.

      Still having the same problems with no drivability issues.

      A couple of new symptoms have appeared for me. The air conditioner seems not to be blowing cold - might be unrelated.

      Also, every now and then, I get an advtrac warning which stays on along with the ABS light and E-Brake indicator. All systems work as expected, though.

      I'm sure when I bring the air conditioner in to fix, this will have to get fixed too and cost like $4000 or something obscene.
       
    10. doubleDD

      doubleDD New Member

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      cold weather = AUTOMATIC TEST mode

      The cold weather thing is interesting, and I'm glad to know (well, so to speak) that you are seeing the same cold weather issues with it going into TEST mode on its own. I bet your AC just needs a freon filling, which you can do on your own if you're so inclined, but shouldn't cost more than a couple hundred bucks for a proper charging at the dealer. There is a good post on this forum somewhere about how to do it properly. My AC does NOT get super-cold in really warm weather anyway, and the loudness of the air blowing is incredible - it just seems REALLY inefficient... I haven't seen any of the AB issues pop up on Sir Edward, so it may be that you actually have an issue there. Generally, any other 'normal' console/messaging issues I have (like low tire pressure, signal on too long beeps, unbuckled seatbelt, etc) do show up when they need attention, which are unrelated to, or unaffected by, the TEST thing, as best as I can tell. I think you, like me, suffer from "TEST MODE ANXIETY", where anything that happens now gets immediate suspicion directed toward the TEST mode thing... And until we know what the codes are and why, we'll continue to blame everything on the TEST... :confused:
       
    11. FriscoSoxFan

      FriscoSoxFan New Member

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      I had been getting this problem more and more frequently, even in more moderate temperatures, including 80* days.

      I also started feeling as though my battery was dying. Starts were getting harder, etc.

      So, I replaced the battery with a 1000 CCA battery from Costco (Kirkland).

      Low and behold, the problem has gone away! My air conditioner remembers the last setting, the info console remembers the setting, and the gauges don't flutter.

      I'm guessing the instrument problems might be a lack of wattage coming through during startup or something. Anyway, I thought I would re-post as someone might also have this problem.

      I'll consider the fluttering gauges advanced warning that I need a new battery in the future!
       
    12. doubleDD

      doubleDD New Member

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      Yep you are right...

      yes, I should have posted as well. I had the exact same situation as you, not thinking about the battery being low being that big of a deal. When I replaced it a couple months ago, every single issue stopped happening, including, as you say, the other things that are suppose to work did; like the AC momory etc. So, agreed, fluctuating needles etc are a good sign that the battery needs re-uping. Although, I do still have the same fault codes as I had before, so we still need to know what the codes are...
       
    13. dgrinnan

      dgrinnan New Member

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      Battery might be the problem.

      I was researching an issue with my climate control resetting in cold weather. (Turned off when I start the car). Same symptoms described as for the Message Center issues in this post. No driving problems, just the reset. I found a post were someone else with the same issue replaced his battery and magically the problem went away. I now have the Message Center "Test" mode on start up also. Mine has been tied to extreme cold weather and is sporadic. My '04 Explorer has the original battery. I have no problems starting or indication it needs replaced (other than this issue) but I think I will get a new battery. It has been more of an aggravation than anything.
      By the way, exact same error codes with one more E013, 9352, A659, 9318 and D900
       
    14. FriscoSoxFan

      FriscoSoxFan New Member

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      I know, it sounds completely illogical, but it was 100% the problem for me. The colder the temp, the weirder the behavior. Changed the battery to a Costco Kirkland and no problems since.
       
    15. aquaman728

      aquaman728 New Member

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      Same Situation

      I have a 2004 Mercury Mountaineer, V8.
      Same EXACT Test sequence appeared today.

      I noticed that when I started my car, the engine had a very slight hesitation, so I think the lower battery "juice" would make sense as to why the error messages were triggered.

      I'll be getting a new battery asap and I am hopeful that things should improve instantly. I'm glad I found this forum, as I was hoping it wasn't something more serious.

      I also have a bad AC coil, so that has had me more "involved" with the inner workings of my engine. But I am pretty confident that from the previous posts here that this test message has nothing to do with that.
       
    16. jrford

      jrford Well-Known Member

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      I was able to do the same thing, something relating to a near dead battery. I was working on my stereo and drained the battery. On a restart this popped up, replaced the Battery and Alt and it hasn't happen since.

      On a side note I've been looking for this thread about onboard OBD II tests. But from the looks of it those aren't std OBD codes? Or i wonder if they are in a different format like HEX?
      This should be a sticky.
       
    17. heylcsgirl

      heylcsgirl New Member

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      Great thread!

      Registered just so I could post to say thanks for saving me a trip to the auto shop! I plan to replace my battery this weekend. My husband and I suspected as much, but reading all of the posts here is serious confirmation.

      I honestly felt like I had posted most of what I read here. Could not describe my situation any better.

      "Aquaman728" - you are my car's twin! ;)
       
    18. REDZONE25

      REDZONE25 New Member

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      Diagnostic codes (test)

      today i received the test on my message board with codes 9352, 9318, and d900.

      Every morning my battery would need a jump start. For some odd reason, my battery went dead. I just purchased a brand new battery. Am hoping this has solved the problem.
       
    19. REDZONE25

      REDZONE25 New Member

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      test diagnostic codes

      Thank you for the information. it is the first time this occurs to me. But am in very hot weather. Matter of fact, it was about 89 when this occured. if anyone ever finds out what these codes are, please post them. thank you.
       
    20. REDZONE25

      REDZONE25 New Member

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      test diagnostic codes

      I will let you guys know is a couple of days if the battery replacement has solved my problem. great site !
       
      Last edited: September 29, 2009
    21. GregB

      GregB New Member

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      diagnostic codes and battery replacement

      So REDZONE25, did replacing the battery solve your problems?

      I'm having the same problems as described by others (trouble starting, weird DTC codes, self test). Cold doesn't seem to be an issue, unless you consider 70's cold. I did jump my wife's car just before this started. Wonder if I did something wrong, like connecting/disconnecting in the wrong order. FYI I have a 2005 Explorer.
       
    22. NLCBOSS

      NLCBOSS New Member

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      It's Not the Cold, It's Your Battery!

      Hey everybody, It's Not the Cold, It's Your Battery! The problem happens more in the cold because the (already weak) battery has way less available amperage in cold weather, (that's why they are measured in CCA (cold cranking amps)) and the engine oil is way thicker, making it draw more amperage to crank over. The gauge problem is just a symptom of a weak battery. Replace your battery and the gauge problem will disappear.
       
    23. pltucc

      pltucc New Member

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      More info that may help!

      I bought my 2005 Explorer in Feb 2009. Dealer had trouble getting the truck to start and replaced the battery; no further problems with starting, no HEC Test Mode in message center. January 2010 started having the same issues mentioned above: vehicle barely starts, gauge needles vibrating for about 5 secs, test mode in message center, Diagnostic Trouble Codes 9317 (Battery Voltage High) 9318 (Battery Voltage Low) 9352 (unkown) D900 (unknown), advance track no engaging.
      Here is something else that is interesting: Had to have the truck jumped one night and then the problem with the vibrating needles disappeared for almost a week, then the problem came back again.
      What I'm getting at here is the battery replacement may not cure the problem. It could be, but I'm not sure because I'm not a mechanic, but it could be the insturment cluster is putting a excess draw on the battery. I keep getting Part # 5L2T-10849-AA (Instrument Cluster) coming up on my message center. It is driving me nuts though, don't mind replacing the cluster panel but it hasn't gone completley bad.
      What do you guys think about this??

      ALSO: When I push RESET during normal operations system check (displays fluid levelsm tire pressure, etc.,the message center indicates the charging system is good. Replacement battery has 650 cold cranking amps.
       
      Last edited: March 13, 2010
    24. jrford

      jrford Well-Known Member

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      same thing happend to me, after a new battery two weeks later the same thing.
      Then i took a volt meter and found 11.8volts running, 12.8volts off, Reman Alteneator and it went up to 13.4 volts running. Turned out the Bad Battery took the Alt with it, never put out enough to charge it but just enough to run the engine.
       
    25. pltucc

      pltucc New Member

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      We'll see what happens

      Looks like NLCBOSS was correct. I took my explorer to AutoZone to have the 1-year old battery tested and sure enough it was about to fail. No more problems since Saturday with the vibrating gauges. We'll see what happens in a week but it looks like the new battery fixed the problem! The local Ford dealer is going to reinburse me for my purchasse, which I thought was very good customer service.
      Thanks for the tip NLCBOSS!
       
    26. USPRYD

      USPRYD New Member

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      "TEST" and fluttering guages...

      I was very relieved to see this forum today as I am steadily losing confidence in my car. I was in a car accident resulting in the total loss of my 2003 Explorer. We have since replaced it with a 2005 Explorer (55,000 miles+ at purchase) that has been in the shop for repairs twice since April. First for a leak in the transmission and next, because the crank shaft pulley flew off the car while driving. Luckily, we purchased an extended warranty on the car when we bought it.

      Yesterday, I started the car in the afternoon - high heat of the day at around 95 degrees (love the South). The gauges fluttered and then engaged as normal. This morning, I went to start the car and it sputtered for a moment before turning over, then the gauges were fluttery and followed by the "TEST" message in the message center.

      I suppose that I'm here mostly to say "thank you" for posting some items for consideration. I believe we'll start by replacing the battery and hope that, as others have indicated, the problem will be resolved. I love FORD for several reasons - no stimulus money taken, dependable vehicles, American made and very much for the fact that the accident that I was recently involved in could have been MUCH worse, but luckily, I was unharmed. I would just like to have confidence restored in owning this new/used Explorer - as much as I had in the last one we owned.

      Thank you all! :)
       

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