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supercharged 5.0 true fire 98 explorer sport

Discussion in 'Elite Explorer Registry' started by vroomzoomboom, January 19, 2009.

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    1. vroomzoomboom

      vroomzoomboom Elite Canuck STOCK SUCKS! Elite Explorer

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      not going to bother with rings. leak down, and compression was very good. that and there was no metal floating around in the motor. as long as the guy balancing the motor says im good, im good.
       
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    3. vroomzoomboom

      vroomzoomboom Elite Canuck STOCK SUCKS! Elite Explorer

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      just putting this there for reference

      EE rear sway bar bushing ENS-9-5164R
       
    4. vroomzoomboom

      vroomzoomboom Elite Canuck STOCK SUCKS! Elite Explorer

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      crank came in. as well as the bearings. he wasnt happy with how much weight was on the flex plate however. i ran down there with 2 spares that i have, but they wernt any better (if not worse) so he is going to be spending some time drilling the crank to balance it. he is literally doing it as i am typing this lol



      it was kinda neat seeing one on a machine. he is hopeful that he will have it done for me thursday. then thats when i get to see how good i am at putting a motor together.......
       
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    5. Dono

      Dono V8 Limited turbo and retired SC 4.0 OHV Elite Explorer

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      Is there a rod and piston on there somewhere? I can't see.
       
    6. vroomzoomboom

      vroomzoomboom Elite Canuck STOCK SUCKS! Elite Explorer

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      you weigh those first. then you make your bob weights up and bolt them to the crank and spin it.
       
    7. Dono

      Dono V8 Limited turbo and retired SC 4.0 OHV Elite Explorer

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      Thanks. I had no idea.
       
    8. 4pointslow

      4pointslow Explorer Torture Tester Elite Explorer

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      That is awesome!
      Thanks for posting that video.
       
    9. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      Very good, I'm glad to see it's done in house there. You hope they will do a really good job balancing it.

      Building an engine is fun, it's really special and you are a primary factor in it surviving a long time. Go slow and enjoy it, clean and check everything closely. Double check as many measurements as you can, the piston deck clearance etc, calculate the quench that results with given head gaskets. You can adjust that a little as needed. Get to the heads and be meticulous with the valvetrain geometry, be slowest there adjusting the rockers and tightening them. Enjoy it.
       
    10. vroomzoomboom

      vroomzoomboom Elite Canuck STOCK SUCKS! Elite Explorer

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      picked the crank up tonight. don tagged along for a mini field trip as well. i think even he was shocked on how much stuff this guy has in his shop.
      in his back yard
      that he does after he has worked his full time job....
      i also learned when checking crank end play when setting the crank in, you want to make sure both top and bottom match each other. never knew that.
      he gave me the spec sheet for the balancing.

      19206153_10154520690687513_1450672238_n.jpg

      long story short, tolerance is 5g. he got it within .60g! REALY? thats like the weight of your hair!
       
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    11. Dono

      Dono V8 Limited turbo and retired SC 4.0 OHV Elite Explorer

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      I'll say the shop is amazing. A ton of space, high end equipment, clean, and the guy has a ton of knowledge. We had a saying many years ago. "The S.O.B. really knows his sh!t" I'd say that applies here.
      You know when you run in to a guy that truly loves what he does. This is that guy.

      It was great to go there. All that said, I really hope I never, ever have a need to visit him with the motor I have in my truck now.
       
    12. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      Good deal, you love to find people who truly like what they do.
       
    13. vroomzoomboom

      vroomzoomboom Elite Canuck STOCK SUCKS! Elite Explorer

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      cleaned the block last night, or as best as i could, just hope its good enough.....
      started at the crack of noon today by laying in the crank, and one by one checking clearance with plastic gauge
      mains were where the machinist said i should have them

      19369887_10154525676487513_518521414_n.jpg

      got lucky there i guess. next was end play

      19244415_10154525676537513_714218059_n.jpg

      19357569_10154525676562513_1037402231_n.jpg

      a tad over ideal, but i'll take it!

      so i pulled it all out, and put assembly lube in (thanks again don!) and clamped the mains down

      19264082_10154525676622513_1414218418_o.jpg

      next were the rods. i started with the number one to see how it was.

      19264782_10154525676827513_624580204_n.jpg

      a little on the large size, so i hope it will be ok.
      then thats when the wheels started to fall off..
      i went to put number 5 in. tried to smack it home, and it stopped just short from the second ring from the top. pulled it out, tried again. same deal. looked at the ring compressor that i borrowed, and figured maybe it wasnt sending them in strait. went to a place that has lone a tool, and got one from there (brand new one at that). same shit. i looked a little closer and saw the oil ring wasnt sitting right. tried messing with it only to make it worse. went to a buddys to see if he could have any better luck. a hour later (for one piston at that) he had it sitting where it should be, and showed me what to do if it happen again. well, it still wouldnt go in all the way (this time the second top ring fell out of the compressor). tucked it all back in and it finally went in.
      i am taking a little break right now. was ready to drop the dead blow hammer for my 3 lb sledge hammer. i will go back out in a little while and mess with it some more.
       
    14. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      Good time for a break. The pistons are the one tedious part of an engine build. That can be very aggravating, and the piston compressor is the magic tool. I built my first few engines with a borrowed clamping tool, the old kind that is a large band that you twist tighten. It didn't hold very straight and usually it had to be re-tightened one or two times for each piston. The slick new kind that's just a big tapered ring is much better. I only have two of those, each one is unique to the bore size.

      Just get each piston lined up straight/centered over the bore, and then go slow without letting the tool move.
       

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    15. delexploder

      delexploder Elite Explorer

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      we do it with the block still upside down , makes it easier to see whats going on , we also lube the cylinders and rings with a bit of light oil
       
    16. 4pointslow

      4pointslow Explorer Torture Tester Elite Explorer

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      Those are great pictures!
      What is the spec for the rod bearing clearance?
      I agree with Don, the newer tapered one piece tool is the best if you can find one the right size for your application.
      I have used many ring compressors lately and I have found another design I like a lot.
      Check this one out, it works very well.

      RCW60.jpg
       
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    17. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      I've seen that type and wondered if it would work well. Thanks for the vote of confidence, I'll hunt that the next time I need a new size.
       
    18. vroomzoomboom

      vroomzoomboom Elite Canuck STOCK SUCKS! Elite Explorer

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      really. i would have thought it would be harder to do because if the block surface was facing up, the rod would hang down and not hit the cylinder. all i did was turn the crank so the journal was at its lowest point, pushed the piston in then tapped it while guiding the rod. i also did lube the cylinder, but i thought you left the rings dry

      i would have to think the rods would have been the same as the mains. i will have to ask the guy who balanced the crank next week. have to go back and get a dowel from him, and pick up my blower mount. which brings me to another find. i was cleaning the gasket off it and i noticed a crack in one weld. i sprayed so wd 40 on the inside of it, and it dribbled out. one vacuum leak found that went undetected. then i stared looking closer and found a few other cracks. the guy who welded it for me the first time sure did a shitty job.
      i didnt have that style of ring compressor, i had the one with the razor sharp edges on it. you know, the one that cuts threw your skin, and also destroys your plastic gauge while its still in the package. and also forces you bleed all over you motor. yea, that one.
      another find i forgot to mention, and this will go back to a experience dono had about 2 years ago. one of the wheels broke off one of his lifters causing the lifter to fall into the cam, locking it, breaking the dowel that holds the timing chain in place, and bending a few valves and destroying his cam. fast forward to now, when i was taking my motor apart, i had a hard time getting one lifter out. i figured it was a burr holding it so i was going to leave it to last, slide the cam out, and let it drop down from the top. well, i was about to do that when i looked threw one of the lifter bores and saw something that almost gave me a heart attack. the pin that holds the wheel in place at the bottom of the lifter was backed out about a 1/8 inch! i was able to push it back in with a screw driver. if i didnt have to take the motor apart that would have been a ticking time bomb. i will never use comp lifters again. EVER! there might have been 6,000 miles on them, maybe.
      i also went back and worked on the motor till about one o'clock last night. the short block minus the cam and timing chain is now done. my problem with the pistons not going in was that i wasnt hitting them fast enough and hard enough for them to slide in.
      i now get to go outside and fix a broken wire on the driver door of my ranger because the controls on the door decided to die on me earlier....joy.
       
      Last edited: June 18, 2017
    19. 4pointslow

      4pointslow Explorer Torture Tester Elite Explorer

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      Wow!
      Any idea what lifters you are going to use?
      Did you find someone to weld your supercharger manifold?
      Glad you made some progress and got most of the short block together.
       
    20. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      The lifters I've read are mostly similar in price and reliability, very good but not much choice except the link-bar lifters. Some people run 7000rpm's without problems using the Comp Cams parts. Woody has suggested on SBFtech another brand(maybe made by the same factory), Morel. I'm not sure there is that much difference between all of the roller lifters. I'm tending to think the link-bar type will be my choice for a 351 Clevor I'll build later for 6500rpm. It's a tough issue, and the prices are $300+ versus $450+ I think.
       
    21. vroomzoomboom

      vroomzoomboom Elite Canuck STOCK SUCKS! Elite Explorer

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      bought crane lifters. don sent me a link to morel's. want them, but at the moment, too much $$$. will get them in the future. i called summit, and the ones that are like morels he said are back ordered. my machinist said he has someone that can weld alum, so i gave it to him. i will probably get new alum cut, and make a new mount and sell the old one (and tell whoever wants it its not perfect). i have a intake tube, pulley bracket, and coil mount kicking around here. would just have to get some spacers made for the pulley mount bolts, and some bolts together and i would have a complete kit
       
    22. vroomzoomboom

      vroomzoomboom Elite Canuck STOCK SUCKS! Elite Explorer

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      talked to my machinist, and showed him the clearances for the bearings. he said the mains are spot on. the rods, he said i shouldnt run any type of thick oil, but something like a 5w30 and i will be ok.
      so here is where i am

      19415891_10154537229352513_1827997092_n.jpg

      set the heads on tonight, set the lifters as well.
      then again, it happens.....
      when i was putting the crank in, i was able to literally spin the motor with one finger. i set a few valves and went to spin the motor.....CLUNK....
      it was locking up. i really started panicking.
      but it felt like it was only in one spot. i started back tracking on what i did, then it came to me. when i did the first few valves i had the balancer off. after doing one bank, i put it on and thats when it started happening. looking around i noticed this

      19427812_10154537229547513_1004541058_n.jpg

      19250937_10154537229792513_1763712656_n.jpg

      looks like i also found what was scratching my balancer up as well. i am also trying to figure out if this is why my balancer bit it in the first place. i had a stock motorcraft pump on there up till around September if i remember correctly. i changed it trying to see why it was running so hot. this is a stock aftermarket replacement pump. this also has a life warranty as well. the motorcraft one (which i saved) is flat at that spot where its rubbing on this one. i called don and asked him to see if his was close or rubbing as well because he replaced his when he first built his motor. he had said its close, but not hitting. i did try clearancing it a little, but i think there might be a hairline crack in it. ill give my parts store a call in the morning and see how much they love me.
       
    23. ahodges

      ahodges Elite Explorer

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      Interesting. For what it's worth, I'm running a Motorcraft water pump but my balancer is turned down too so I probably wouldn't have had that problem regardless. I wonder if it was making some noises before that you didn't detect right away.
       
    24. 4pointslow

      4pointslow Explorer Torture Tester Elite Explorer

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      I would strongly suggest throwing that aftermarket crap in the trash and go with a Motorcraft water pump.
      On my stock 1998 4 door, I had an aftermarket water pump that had the shaft break without warning.
      When it broke I had just crossed a bridge back into NJ and snap!
      The belt then became useless since it popped off so no power steering, and of course there wasn't any coolant circulating so engine got hot.
      To make matters worse when the water pump broke, the fan and pulley assembly attached to the broken shaft hit the radiator that was not very old.
      Of course the radiator started leaking so it had to be replaced.
      This was all posted under my 1998 4 door thread.

      I just paid over 100.00 for a Motorcraft waterpump for my 1998 2 door, and I don't feel bad about spending that money on it because engine life may depend on it.
       
    25. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      Yes, it seems some parts like a WP we used to take for granted as any brand will do, it won't now. It may be the time to call a water pump another OEM only part.

      There is that one other high flow brand Flowkooler I think, that Centaurus tried the WP on his 302. I wonder if that is going to be a good choice also for our hipo engines.
       
      Last edited: June 22, 2017
    26. Dono

      Dono V8 Limited turbo and retired SC 4.0 OHV Elite Explorer

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