Discussion in 'Elite Explorer Registry' started by vroomzoomboom, January 19, 2009.
$116.53 for shipping + $99.00 part.
I'm just not seeing it happening.
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got a replacement after work. the warranty is pending. wasnt happy about that (in otherwords, i had to shell out for a new one). my parts store had said that it might be iffy because i ground one spot. they told me if it was up to them, no problem they would have given me one but have to wait to see what the rep says (and i know these guys real good, they wouldnt yank my chain either). i said if he doesnt cover it, i want his phone number and i would handle it from there. the replacement is a gates pump that has a flat spot in it, so it should fit better. also i dont think i want a high flow pump. the reason is that because i have a larger crank pulley, it might flow too fast and not have time to cool it down.
You have a 7" crank pulley is it? The stock one is 6", so the extra speed generates more flow from the WP, up to where it might cavitate. I also think the stock one would be best, I have the 7" pulley ASP made for me. I put it on my balancer last week to see how it fits versus the Cobra pulley. It does, and should clear the WP pulley since yours does.
wasnt the pulley, it was the balancer
so the plan was to prep everything so i could just get the motor in the truck tomorrow. didnt even have to bolt everything down, just get it in, run in a few bolts to keep it in place because its going to be hit and miss this weekend. i wanted to tighten the bolts for the mounts just to make sure. this also gave me a chance to use my new Milwaukee m18 fuel 1/2 impact
impact 1, 2 month old motor mount 0
i forgot these things have more balls then a elephant.
thats ok i thought to myself. i can rob a mount from either the stroker truck, or don's old truck (v6 mounts are the same bolt pattern, the rubber block is just a little smaller) to get me by until i get a new one. after all, i could still put the motor in and change the mount later. so next in line i figured i would put the rear main seal in instead of doing it just before i stab the motor in. the last time i did a seal, i remember it being tight, but it fit over the crank (that was when i had the 302 in, using a stock seal). its recommended that you use a high pressure rear main seal just because of it being a boosted motor. go to put that in.....it wont fit over the crank. not even close. call summit to ask if i have the correct seal, i do but they figure its defective. the new seal wont be here till friday......
FML. i was wanting to have it running by sunday.
was this the seal?
edit: removed crappy link.
I found my original order. The 2941 is the one I used also.
that link is screwy for some reason don, but its a felpro FEL 2941
when i was returning some of the tools i borrowed, i was telling buddy about the seal that wont go in. he had a look at it, and told me the installer came with it (a plastic ring that was inside the seal). one part slips over the crank, and you tap it in from there. the next problem was finding something big enough to do that. it just so happens that a pvc sewer pipe cap is just about the right size (remember a few posts back i said dont laugh at my redneckism? yea, do that). with that new found info got the seal in. i just hope it doesnt leak. i caught a small part that rides the crank. very small. with the weather being crappy i still couldnt do anything but clean up the wire harness a bit. today however, was nice. well except for a few times where it showered on me and i had to sit for a few mins while it cleared up. but its in, everything under the truck with the exception of the diff is done. front dress is on, i would say haft the wiring is done, and thats were i called it for today. hopefully if i dont fell beat up after work i can hammer the rest out and start it tomorrow.
i do have a new mount coming. figured i would put everything together then change it when it gets here. i am going to see how bad, if at all it torques the motor over with the gimpy mount. if its not bad i will try and take if for a drive.
The engine will want to rotate down on the passenger side, and up on the left. So it'll be fine if it's the right engine mount.
You made good progress!
Hope the rest of the install goes well!
Tim's amazing with his truck. He knows every tool require for every part, and what order to put it all back together. I'd say a video of that being done would generate some income on youtube if he set up one of those accounts. I know a member on the Corral who makes money from the videos he posts of his projects.
so i got it to the point that i could start it on monday night. turned the key, it would cough and fart, but not start.
once again, i screwed up with the firing order. this time i had the coils plugged in wrong. i possess that gift with this damn thing some how on messing that up....
when i came home from work yesterday, i changed that around and fired it up. first thing i noticed was i thought the other lifters were loud. they dont hole a candle to these crane ones! second thing i noticed is my oil pressure isnt as high as it was before. i guess i am going to have to blame that on how tight the rod bearings are (i didnt measure the old ones, but the machinist told me it was tight, but tolerable. old pressure was around 50 at idle cold, now around 40-45. same thing for when driving). one big difference is how it idles now. before when it was cold, it wound surge to almost the point of stalling on cold start up, and even a little on warm start up. now, damn near perfect. looks that those cracks in the mount really effected that. however, it is a little on the rich side at idle sometimes (about 15.5 to 16 on the wideban).
but this next thing is making me scratch my head, but i have a feeling i know what it is.
hear that whine, or scream sound if you like? when i had the mount rewelded it twisted on the guy. when you bolt it down it forced it strait. i think however there is a gap some place, or its twisting the blower case a little. but if i unplug the vacuum line going to the bypass valve, the noise goes away.i hope however if it is moving the case around the rotors arent scraping the case. if they are, blowers done for....
Whistle sounds like a vacuum leak.
Lifters should not be noisy, it sounds like they(rockers) need to be adjusted.
Roller lifters if loose will have the wheel on the bottom smashing up and down on the cam and that can lead to breakage.
Anyone else please chime in if you have other thoughts, just going off my first thoughts.
Sounds like he has a problem...
Can you spray some either, or something like that around the mount?
I think those lifters are way to noisy. That's not right.
I still wonder why your oil pressure was so high on your last motor build. The pressure you have now is more like what I read other people have (me included).
The idle rich issue is a non issue. That is an easy fix in the tune.
Also, you had that breather filter on the valve cover, is that now removed and back to being a closed system with no un-metered air being pulled in to the intake thru the valve cover filter. Fixing that will also create a rich condition during normal high vacuum conditions (Throttle body plate closed). Like I said, I can fix this up no problem.
it would be nice if it was a vacuum leak lol. as for the lifters, everything i could find said to rotate the motor until the one valve starts to open. when that happens, you then take the slack or lash out of the other valve, then make a 1/2 after that then set the polly lock. thats how i did it.
oh, one other thing i forgot about. now when i turn it off, you can hear compression escape. you know, like a "whoosh" sound. that i have never heard this motor do before.
Find out why that valve train is so noisy before you break the bottom of one of those lifters.
Tim, remember at Carlisle when you told me I had a lifter, or several lifters ticking... well Tim, you have some lifters ticking more so than I do. That whine is either the supercharger or a vacuum leak. When you unplug the by pass valve I hear the difference but the whine is still there at a different frequency so I don't think that proves anything. Also, 15.5 - 16 ppm on your wideband is lean, not rich.
Well.....I just called crane. I don't have enough pre load. I set them at 1/2 turn at zero lash. They have told me it should be 1 full turn. I also asked them if I have to go and reset lash on all valves when I did this and they said no you can just add a 1/2 turn to each of them regardless of where the motor is sitting . It will be a little aggravating to get the valve covers off with all the crap that is around them but I have done them before . Even help do one in a Parkade once
Truthfully Andy I can't remember that but I will take your word on it . I've just become so burnt out lately and stressed hoping I don't screw anything up on this . That and I have also had a ton of problems with my right shoulder lately which makes things difficult to do. This weekend or tonight if it doesn't rain all pop off the valve covers and reset them . I have been thinking on this too. I think what I will do is put the blower mount on the 302 and both the supercharger on to it and block all my vacuum ports and see if I can smoke it on my spare motor. That way I will be able to tell if that amount is twisted to the point it's no longer sealing
Tim, if you are just using RTV between the supercharger and mount then maybe try a home made gasket with RTV on both sides of it.
The gasket may absorb some little imperfections in flatness.
i did the rvt on its own once....once lol. damn near needed a pry bar to separate them. i did do the rvt sandwich the last time by using two home made gaskets with rvt between them and it worked but some of the rvt oozed out and getting that all off was a nightmare lol
That's how it should be.
Would Locktite 518 be better than RTV?