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T3 T4 Hybrid Turbo OHV

Well I got tired of the 4.0 ohv not having any power on the highway climbing the hills on the 62 and having no low end in 4x4 high offroad, especially now that I have a pickup with a 5.7 v8 in it..

I've been lurking for some time since I've been kinda busy with work but, I got my hands on a Turbonetics T3 T4 hybrid so it's project time. It has the .48ar T3 turbine and a f1-57 trim T4 compressor. I expect this thing will spool FAST but I am not making any claims to being too familiar with forced induction..worst case scenario is there's a problem I can get a higher trim turbine.

I plan on having it live just behind and to the right of the alternator after doing test fitting. Its snug but should work nice to draw through my snorkel set up and for routing the exhaust.

Now, I have a concern about drawing through the stock airbox with a K&N drop in.. will this be too much suction and cause oil to get past the center housing seals?

If I hit full boost before highway cruising speed will that boost still be effective once in the higher RPM's? ie: is 7lb boost (where I plan to limit it at) at say, 1500 rpm still 7lb boost at 3k rpm?

Anyway, thanks in advance for the guru advice and input. I'll try to post through the project and get some pics up since everyone likes pics.

:usa: 'merica
 



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You really took a lot off the lower intake. How have those thinner spots held up going that thin?

Fine.the material he used to fill the holes in didnt stick to inside port to well..i just went back over it with the lab metal on the outside and smoothed out the port some more .but haven't had any issues really with it for last couple years
 






So, I'm going to order up the 422 cam and then like end of May order the bare heads from promaxx performance. This will not go as quickly as the turbo build because it's going to cost me more. It should be easier though... I'm starting with the cam and the heads because their the most expensive and most important parts.
 






Cam ordered. Although I was a bit suprised by the 101 questions summit had when I tried to use my California address. It's crazy how strict that CARB junk is... So I had it shipped back home since my cars are still registered at home and I'm still legal there as long as I have no codes and a gas cap that works.
 






I got a hold of summit today, even though the 422 grind cam is one summit says they carry in stock they were out when I ordered. Apparently compcams only machines these things seasonally so the shipment is supposed to get to summit In about 3 weeks and then ship to me from there. SO if anyone is waiting to order a 422 cam from them that would be a good time to do it.
 






Been playing with the tune to try and address a lean tip in that usually manifests 3rd gear. It's definitely associated with Manifold Volume under the fuel scalar but, increasing it, while it helps the issue and gives me more low rpm torque and better throttle response also acts as a global fuel adder. I will have to adjust my maf curve to compensate for the difference. Does anyone know of or have a formula for the relationship between the sct maf curve and the manifold volume?
 






To answer my own question, so far it seems that for 1 Liter of increase in manifold volume it equates to a roughly 2% increase of the MAF curve.
 






All the Lasota stuff says not to touch that, so I haven't.
I can't even find what my manifold volume is on my trickflow intake as I did consider changing it to be accurate.
 






In general I would say the Lasota stuff is right. However, with the maf location and intake volume being increased coupled with lean tip in and lack of power on engagement of the clutch it made sense to experiment with the change in this case. You coukd get creative with saranwrap and a bucket of water to test? I just guestimated..but on SCT for a 4.0l ohv the manifold volume stock volume is 3.00 liters and under Fuel>Scalar>Manifold Volume. Of note it also effects response time of the maf signal. So if the maf is further away from the throttle body, increasing volume increases the response time to account for the distance the air charge has to travel.
 






That makes perfect sense. I should be looking closer at mine since my maf is actually under my truck.
 






Been a busy weekend for the explorer.

Dremeled a vent channel in the aluminum spacer of my hurst shifter and put an old vac line in it to stop the over pressure from heating up forcing the splashing ATF out and causing a leaking issue I've been having. was able to pressurize the trans through the tube and then feel the air flow as it depressurized so it works.

Finally got my p1000 code to go away by driving the actual ford drive cycle to a T. I have to pass the sniffer on the California emissions testing to drive on base even though I'm registered in a different state but the guy still hassles me for emissions codes and I have to be able to pass the obd2 scanner back home anyway. Turns out that my drive to and from work is too fast and lacking the driving around town in stop and go and at around 40mph required to complete the cycle.

Addressed a P0704 for the clutch position sensor. Took the thing apart and cleaned it, and re greased it with dielectric. It's showing quite a bit of wear on the metal strips the switch slides on so it's going to have to be replaced soon which is too bad because it's such a cheaply made part they want over 30 bucks for.

I also got the lower coil over mounts moved outboard about 3/4 inch on both sides. Just enough so through the full range of the coils they don't touch the frame.

Drove the thing 86 miles which was the first "long" trip since the turbo and tuning. It did well. Over 2 passes and a lot of freeway driving at 70+mph and strong winds. Only issue I've seen is when it's good and hot and the oils thinned out when it drops to idle the oil gauge doesn't want to stay up. This only started happening since the oil cooler went in. It's probably something I can fix going back to the simple on/off dummy sensor, or smaller oil cooler lines but, I'm hoping it will resolve itself when the build is done in the future and a higher flow oil pump is in. I don't want to go to smaller cooler lines because I want to be able to cool the oil efficiently under high boost when it's getting the hottest.
The oil is still flowing when this happens, you do not hear the audible change in engine noise such as when the cylinders are dry on start up or after an oil change it's just annoying to have the gauge rattle around and the red check gauge light come on.
 






Still waiting on the 422 cam to ship...:/
 






What was your fuel mileage on your trip? Also were you in boost the whole time you were driving?
 






Sounds like good progress is being made:burnout:
 






No boost under cruise or light acceleration still sees anywhere from 1 to 15 hg vac dependant on skinny pedal and load. Just over 1/4 pedal or so it will go 1 to 3 lbs. And up from there. Haven't checked mileage yet but I run 14-15 at cruise And I've notices if I stay out of boost my tank stays full longer. So it is better by a bit.
 






What rpm's are you hitting boost at? And does it seem to come on early. I myself don't want boost till I hit 2500 to 3000 rpm's.
 






What rpm's are you hitting boost at? And does it seem to come on early. I myself don't want boost till I hit 2500 to 3000 rpm's.

It's dependant on load. I can take it up to 4500 without hitting boost. I can also hit boost by 1500 if I mash the skinny pedal down. On my cruise into work today going 73 at or near 3k I was keeping on avg 5hg vac but if I put the pedal down, increasing load I can push it anywhere from 0 to 6 lbs boost
 






I know it's in this thread somewhere but could you tell me your ar on both sides of your turbo?
 






I know it's in this thread somewhere but could you tell me your ar on both sides of your turbo?

Off hand I think its .48 t3 turbine and .57 t4 impeller. Just verified off my amazon history the above is correct.
 



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Cool view spot I found adventuring after work
 






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