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T3 T4 Hybrid Turbo OHV

Discussion in 'Need for Speed!' started by Caejxr, May 11, 2015.

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    1. Caejxr

      Caejxr Active Member

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      Got the radiators swapped out. Super easy job on the OHV. Remove intake, drain coolant, unhook hoses, unbolt shroud, unbolt radiator, pull straight up and out. Reverse for reinstall...

      The 4.5 inch vertical crack in the front of the driver side tank along centerline half way down the tank explains the amount of coolant loss.

      Hopefully the current heads will be good to run on until the build. I kept a close eye on the temp running it home and it never exceeded the 200 deg mark since I blasted the heater the whole way.

      Ran it to work today with the heater off. It held 190 to 195 no problem we'll see how the trip home goes in the afternoon heat.
       
      Last edited: September 7, 2016
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    3. Caejxr

      Caejxr Active Member

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      Results confirmed on the drive home. New rad is holding temps much better. I still get a quick rise/spike in temps under boost but I'm confident if I size up the intercooler it will help since my intake temps are still really high even though my math tells me it's about 80% efficient. I'm probably looking at needing summer/desert and winter/temperate climate sized coolers and swap them seasonally. I'll attempt that before I think about a water spray system..
       
    4. malohnes

      malohnes Active Member

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      Glad to hear the new rad is working out. Surprised at the size of the crack in your old leaky rad though.

      Seems like a lot of extra work to swap intercoolers for seasonal conditions....
       
    5. Caejxr

      Caejxr Active Member

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      Just 2 worm screws and 2 bolts to swap them out. It's an option worth exploring to me. A better option really would be finding something in between but I know it won't be sufficient for the Mojave desert heat still. And anything that will meet that need will be too big for the PNW especially during winter. Long term I'm probably better off just finding something slightly larger than my current one since I'll be moving home and staying there eventually.
       
    6. Caejxr

      Caejxr Active Member

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      It's just one thing after another right now. The rear main just decided to give up and it's slinging oil all over to include the y pipe. I may as well add the clutch and engine mounts to the list while I'm in there. This is beginning to get out of control.
       
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    7. Dono

      Dono V8 Limited turbo and retired SC 4.0 OHV Elite Explorer

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      Careful...it might not be the rear main.

      It seem's that every leak on our motor's always look like a rear main leak.
      I can't say for certain is something is a rear main leak even if I'm looking at it.
      Leaks are a bitch.
       
    8. malohnes

      malohnes Active Member

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      Ooh, sorry to hear that. Look for the oil pan gasket as a culprit too.
       
    9. Caejxr

      Caejxr Active Member

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      I'm fairly certain of what it is by the spray patterns and where the oil isnt. If it were the heads it would spray more top down than bottom up. And its definitely spraying or slinging bottom up and it's on both left and right.
       
      Last edited: September 17, 2016
    10. Caejxr

      Caejxr Active Member

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      Maybe next week I'll mount a gopro under there and see if I can watch for the source. I just thought of that...Probably could show me pretty clearly.
       
    11. jd4242

      jd4242 Elite Explorer

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      What are you running for a pvc system? ? Could be a sign of bad rings from too much boost
       
    12. malohnes

      malohnes Active Member

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      That could be very True... I've had issues with pvc before causing excessive oil leaks.

      I'm doing the SOHC oil pan swap and HV pump while I tear into the tranny and I'll know how much my main seal is leaking. Also can see just how bad my pan gaskets are.
       
    13. jd4242

      jd4242 Elite Explorer

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      You know its very hard to get pan off if even possible with motor still in truck?

      Make sure you get ALL the bolts for the sohc pan and the oil pump pick up from the sohc..your need a large allen key to adjust the main cap spacers in the pan out before you mount the pan..then adjust the allen screw spacers in against the main caps,the put the 2nd main caps bolts in that hold the pan..

      If you dont adjust those allen spacers out before you mount the pan with the ouside pan bolts,it may not mount flush and leak..know people that have done that. .

      If you dont understand what im saying i can go back over it once you have the pan in hand....

      Get the expensive dtpfe or whatever it is rear seal..only ones ive had luck with..
       
    14. malohnes

      malohnes Active Member

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      I'll pull the tranny first, then lift the engine to replace the motor mounts and oil pan. Mucho easier that way

      I think I get what you're saying. I'll take pics and maybe start a thread on it. Right now, my pan is on the way and trying to find a better place to order the pump...shipping is eating my budget!
       

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    15. malohnes

      malohnes Active Member

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      That GoPro idea sounds good.

      I couldn't definitively find my leaks running at idle. It was not evident at all until after driving a bit, especially at hi way speeds. I was able to mostly rule out front and rear mains for significant leaks, but they are seeping some.
       
    16. jd4242

      jd4242 Elite Explorer

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      O lol yea sorry @Caejxr i thought you posted those responses..
       
    17. Caejxr

      Caejxr Active Member

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      Ah no worries.
      As far as the PCV goes I have both the fill neck and d side valve cover vented to atmosphere currently. If there is pressure getting in there it definately has an easier way out besides the seals. Video will be captured tomorrow night to reveal the culprit.
       
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    18. Caejxr

      Caejxr Active Member

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      Gopro video didn't show me much except for smoke and that I definately need to replace my engine mounts. I couldn't get it too much closer without having to worry about heat from the pipes.

      I just hit everything really heavy with purple power to clean it up some. I know my d side valve cover has started dripping some so I tightened it up too. But like I said with how the oil is on the bottom half of the starter.. the top is still dusty and no oil if it were coming off of the heads or valve cover I'd expect to see drips on top of it not just the bottom half coated. Likewise the side of the block and back of the block is clean with no dampness from oil.
       
      Last edited: September 20, 2016
    19. Caejxr

      Caejxr Active Member

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      If anyone feels like seeing/hearing a clip

      Although it doesn't look it, that camera is only about 4 inches from the driverside exhaust pipe.
       
      Last edited: September 20, 2016
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    20. 4pointslow

      4pointslow Explorer Torture Tester Elite Explorer

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      I like the turbo whine! Sounds smooth.
      Must be nice having the front hubs unlocked, my Explorers don't so I get even more crappy fuel mileage.

      Maybe you can get an oil pan gasket and rear main seal so when you tear it apart you have both items covered.
      Check crankshaft endplay too, just to be safe.
       
    21. Caejxr

      Caejxr Active Member

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      @4pointslow, I'll add it to the list. I'm going as deep as I am I might as well. I could just delay building further and buy everything for the bottom end and just go for it all at once. But I was trying not to go that far and if I get the pan off its almost like I might as well. Since I'd be 90% of the way there.

      I definately notice the difference with the hubs unlocked. It just rolls and steers easier. Although I wish there was a stronger option for the hub locks like for a d30, ttb, or full width. I've got mine safety wired into place via the center cap. Like the mechanics do on airplane parts.
       
    22. Caejxr

      Caejxr Active Member

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      After cleaning everything up and letting it dry I took a spin around the block. Nothing of substance is coming from the valve cover and the head gaskets are dry. However the very bottom of the engine block where the block off plate pokes out is dripping oil. Pointing fairly solidly toward that rear main.

      Will be interesting to get in there and see how it's not coming on the clutch side of the plate.
       
    23. jd4242

      jd4242 Elite Explorer

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      Hopefully it blocked most of it,think so if your still driving it
       
    24. Caejxr

      Caejxr Active Member

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      Yeah I stuck my hand up in there through the view window. Just clutch dust.
       
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    25. Caejxr

      Caejxr Active Member

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      So when I did my transmission swap I used ratchet straps and brute strength and took the transmission out. Put it in the garage tonight thinking I'd do the same and I've definately changed my mind. That y-pipe is positioned where I can get it out but I'll need a transmission jack for sure. I'm going to to need the ability to roll it back while it's perfectly level to clear the pipes. Not to mention if I'm going to pull the pan or anything the easiest way is going to be pulling the engine. Building old cars always comes with extra headaches a new one wouldn't though.
       
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    26. malohnes

      malohnes Active Member

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      Ughhh! I hate when a simple job ain't so simple...

      Ha! I'm not so sure a new car is better wrenching on...
       

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