Discussion in 'Need for Speed!' started by Caejxr, May 11, 2015.
I guess I meant in the sense of old things wearing out.
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True, I hear ya, but at least with our old trucks, we can work on them. These newer trucks are more complicated, needing more time and energy to r/r things. A plug job on our trucks is 30 minutes tops, on my girlfriends f150, for example, it's 2 hours or more.
At least it's not just your daily driver. It's the pits when those break down.
Your rear main seal shouldn't be too hard to do, outside dropping the tranny mess.
I remember when it was my dd. Took a lot of hard work and late nights to keep that thing going sometimes when I really needed it.
Should be finished getting the trans remounted tonight. Right now it's like 90 percent of the way there. I'm just fighting it to line up the bolt holes just right. Quite a pain with all the fluid in and the tcase still attached.
All back together, new seal new clutch. It was definately leaking and that is now taken care of the back of the driverside head is now very visibly leaking though now that it's cleaned up. That's just gonna have to wait until in ready to do the build.
On the other hand I just fabled up a 1/4 inch aluminum skid. For the front cross members and it comes up 3/4 of the way to the frame at about 45deg. to protect the intercooler too since it's in front of the front beam. I'm going to bend up some braces from the scrap to bolt to where the stock sway bar bolted to. Cost me less than 40 bucks for the plate.
I'll be cutting some holes into the front part and ducting them to the intercooler to increase the airflow at the same time.
Got the ducting done just need to cut the holes and put the low pro efan behind it for offroad
Nice job. I built a turbo 4.0 Years back and was a fun little project. I never got to the extent if tuning it thou I just was using a FMU and slightly larger 21# injectors to fuel it. keep it up
Got that puller fan wired up behind the intercooler it fits perfectly on there. Triggers off of the fuel pump relay wiring so there less electrical load for start up. And runs all the time about 2 seconds after start up which is what I want. I have to rework the front duct a little due to the forward tilt it has now but that's going to be easy. Look forward to seeing how it works out.
Drove around town to get the adaptive learning to pickup the fine tuning after pulling relays out, seems like the fan is making a good difference on the intake temps and the ducting really helps for sure once over 30 mph.
I'm still burning off a bunch of oil and brake fluid from bleeding the cutch but it seems like the leaks are stemmed up for now, the valve covers and heads are oozing oil but not a drastic amount to drip. I'm really itching to build these heads and get the camshaft in.
Polished up the bowls and exhaust is all port matched and polished up nice lot of material to be removed. Left the intake mostly alone since it's forced induction anyway.
Just to give you an idea of what can be removed from the heads and lower intake..
Your notice the bolts need to be installed in the heads and couple studs from removing the casting bumps in the ports..the exhaust is what needs all the work,the intake is pretty good and slight turbulence is needed after the injectors anyways...the lower manifold has more gains if ported and polished..
Here are some pictures of my heads and intake..the heads had the bowl and ramps done after the larger seats and valves were fitted..
Stock 95tm port,notice the bump..
Ported,bump removed. .
And what i use..got router at harbor freight and the round sanding sponges. .they come in a 6 pack with 3 different grits..i get my burr bits from granger ..best investment ever,porting is not cheap work
@jd4242 it looks like those sanding sponges worked very well that finish looks great!
I see what you're saying with putting in the bolts to guage when to stop.
I'm using the 98tm heads but the material I removed is looking pretty close to the pictured you posted up on the exhaust ports. Their a slightly different shape as I'm sure you know and I didn't remove as much as you did with the bump deeper inside since I didn't have a bump on these heads. Their slightly wider than stock although a thicker casting to reduce cracking especially around the water jackets and oil ports. I really focused more on the exhaust than anything as there was so much material to remove and that's where I should see biggest gains next to larger valves..and the bowl I only polished enough to remove the casting so it's smooth and lightly polished as you can see in that picture I posted.
Those are aftermarket Engine Quest true 95tm heads.they have the largest ports with all the other mods you mentioned.the studs and bolts have to be left in so exhaust doeant leak out.. .98tm have smaller but more round ports that typically are easier to port but more material has to be removed. .but your definitely correct, the exhaust ports are gonna be your biggest gains..
Those sponge wheels make work easy for sure..
Great progress,things are coming along nicely
Looks like the bottom end is going to have to be done. I've got blow by bad enough right now to be pushing oil out of both crank vents and out of the dipstick tube.
oh man, the cost and energy involved just sky rocketed. Sorry.
What type of crank vent system are you running? ?
I'm venting both the valve cover vents to atmosphere.
Cost for sure..energy yeah to an extent. Id already be most of the way there pulling the heads anyway. With a good stand and lift pulling it will make building the engine easier and since I'm going that far I may as well do everything and have a full performance build. It's going to take some time though to get done...it will get done.
Found this surfing the net.
4.0L OHV SPEC SHEET
4.0L (Push Rod)
Displacement liters 4.0L (244)
Number of cylinders 6
Bore mm (inch) 100.4 (3.9527)
Stroke mm (inch) 84.4 (3.31)
Firing order 1-4-2-5-3-6
Minimum oil pressure at 2000 RPM (engine at normal operating temperature) kPa (psi) 130 (15)
Cylinder Head and Valve Train
Combustion chamber volume (cc) 46.34-48.34
Valve guide bore diameter 8.062-8.087 (0.317-0.318)
Valve arrangement front to rear
Head gasket surface flatness mm (inch) a
Head gasket surface finish rms 60-150
Width mm (inch) 1.697-2.263
Angle Degrees 45°
Runout TIR maximum mm (inch) 0.038 (0.0014)
Intake exhaust mm (inch)
Valve stem to guide clearance exhaust mm (inch)
Valve stem to guide clearance intake mm (inch)
Head diameter intake mm (in) 4.35 (1.71)
Head diameter exhaust mm (in) 34.5 (1.36)
Valve face angle degrees 44°
Valve face runout limit mm (inch) 0.051 (0.002)
Valve Rocker Arm Shaft, Push Rods and Tappets
Push rod runout TIR maximum mm (inch) 0.508 (0.020)
Tappet diameter mm (inch) 22.205-22.238
Tappet to bore clearance mm (inch) 0.013-0.056
Repair limit mm (inch) 0.127 (0.005)
Hydraulic lifter leakdown rate for 1/16 inch travel 10-50 seconds
Intake valve spring free length mm (inch) 48.514 (1.91)
Exhaust valve spring free length mm (inch) 48.514 (1.91)
Intake valve spring assembled height mm (inch) 40.08-40.87 (1.578-1.609)
Exhaust valve spring assembled height mm (inch) 40.08-40.87 (1.578-1.609)
Valve spring out of square mm (inch) 1.98 (0.078)
Intake valve spring compression pressure at specified height (lbs) 347-383 Nm 39.86-40.4mm 256-282 lb/ft at 1.56-1.59in
Intake lobe lift mm (inch) 6.92 (0.272)
Exhaust lobe lift mm (inch) 6.92 (0.272)
Maximum allowable lobe lift loss mm (inch) 0.127 (0.005)
End play mm (inch) 0.065-0.165 (0.0025 - 0.0064)
Journal to bearing clearance mm (inch) 0.025-0.076 (0.001-0.003)
Repair limit mm (inch) 0.152 (0.006)
No. 1 journal diameter mm (inch) 49.57-49-59 (1.951-1.952)
No. 2 journal diameter mm (inch) 49.21-49.23 (1.937-1.938)
No. 3 journal diameter mm (inch) 48.83-48.84 (1.9224-1.9228)
No. 4 journal diameter mm (inch) 48.44- 48.46 (1.907-1.9078)
Maximum camshaft journal runout mm (inch) 0.127 (0.005)
No. 1 bearing inside diameter mm (inch) 49.635-49.655 (1.954-1.955)
No. 2 bearing inside diameter mm (inch) 49.225-49.275 (1.939-1.940)
No. 3 bearing inside diameter mm (inch) 48.750-48.768 (1.919-9.920)
No. 4 bearing inside diameter mm (inch) 48.875-48.895 (1.924-1.925)
Front Bearing Location Depth mm (inch)b 0.51-0.89 (0.020-0.035)
Cylinder bore diameter mm (inch) 100.38-100.43 (3.9527-3.9543)
Maximum cylinder out-of-round mm (inch) 0.025 (0.0009)
Maximum cylinder taper mm (inch) 0.025 (0.0009)
Main bearing bore diameter mm (inch) 60.62-60.64 (2.3866-2.3874)
Crankshaft to rear face of block runout TIR maximum mm (inch) 0.127 (0.005)
Crankshaft and Flywheel
Main bearing journal diameter mm (inch) 56.980-57.0 (2.2433-2.2441)
Main bearing journal out-of-round mm (inch) 0.015 (0.0006)
Main bearing journal runout TIR maximum mm (inch) 0.0508 (0.002)
Main bearing journal runout limit mm (inch) 0.127 (0.005)
Main bearing thrust face runout TIR maximum mm (inch) 0.0254 (0.001)
Main bearing journal taper maximum per inch mm (inch) 0.008 (0.0003 per inch)
Thrust bearing journal length mm (inch) 26.39-26.44 (1.039-1.041)
Main and rod bearing journal finish rms maximum 12 and 8.8
Main bearing thrust face finish rms maximum 20
Connecting rod journal diameter mm (inch) 53.98-54.0 (2.1252-2.1260)
Connecting rod journal maximum out-of-round mm (inch) 0.008 (0.0003)
Connecting rod journal taper per inch maximum mm (inch) 0.008 (0.0003 per inch)
Crankshaft free end play mm (inch) 0.05-0.32 (0.002-0.01250)
Connecting Rod Bearings
Clearance to crankshaft mm (inch) 0.020-0.053 (0.0008-0.0020)
Bearing wall thickness mm (inch) 1.399-1.406 (0.055-0.0554)
Clearance to crankshaft (inch) 0.013-0.056 (0.0005-0.0022)
Bearing wall thickness mm (inch) 1.799-1.806 (0.0708-0.0711)
Connecting Rod, Piston and Rings
Piston pin bore or bushing i.d. mm (inch 23.958-23.976 (0.943-0.944)
Rod bearing bore i.d. mm (inch) 56.82-56.84 (2.237-2.238)
Rod bearing bore out-of-round mm (inch) 0.01 (0.0004)
Rod length center to center mm (inch) 145.965-146.035 (5.746-5.749)
Alignment (bore-to-bore max. Diff.) twist mm (inch) 0.038 (0.0015) per 25.4 mm (1.000)
Alignment (bore-to-bore max. Diff.) bend mm (inch) 0.0125 (0.0049) per 25.4 mm (1.000)
Side clearance (assembled to crank) mm (inch) 0.092-0.268 (0.0032-0.0106)
Length mm (inch)
Red 72.0-72.80 (2.835-2.866)
Blue 23.992-23.997 (0.9446-0.9448)
Pin to piston clearance mm (inch) 0.008-0.0152 (0.0003-0.0006)
Pin to connecting rod clearance mm (inch) Interference Fit
Diameter - mm (inch) 100.380-100.400 (3.952-3.953)
Piston to bore clearance mm (inch) 0.021-0.048 (0.0008-0.0019)
Pin bore diameter mm (inch) 24.007-24.013
Top ring grove width mm (inch) 1.976-1.989
Bottom ring grove width mm (inch) 2.977-2.99 (0.1172-0.1177)
Diameter-coded blue mm (inch) 100.880-100.900 (3.972)
Diameter-coded yellow mm (inch) 101.350-101.370 (3.99)
Top compression ring gap mm (inch) 0.381-0.584 (0.015-0.023)
Bottom compression ring gap mm (inch) 0.381-1.397 (0.015-0.055)
Oil ring gap mm (inch) 0.381-1.397 (0.015-0.055)
Top compression ring width mm (inch) 1.578-1.59 (0.062)
Bottom compression ring width mm (inch) 1.728-1.74 (0.068-0.069)
Top compression side clearance mm (inch) 0.050-0.082 (0.001-0.003)
Bottom compression side clearance mm (inch) 0.050-0.082 (0.001-0.003)
Relief valve spring pressure lbs. At 35.3 lbs. (1.39 inch) 61.3-66.3 Nm (45.100-48.730 lb/ft)
Driveshaft to housing clearance mm (inch) 0.002-0.0031 (0.001)
Relief valve to housing clearance mm (inch) 0.0015-0.003 (0.0001)
Rotor assembly end clearance max. Mm (inch) 0.0014-0.0044 (0.00015)
Outer race to end clearance mm (inch) 0.006-0.012 (0.0002-0.005)
Engine oil capacity liters (quarts) with oil filter 4.7 (5)
SAE 5W-30 Motor Oil
Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound
Silicone Gasket and Sealant
Pipe Sealant with Teflon®
Metal Surface Cleaner
Well I'm pretty bummed that I wasn't able to make it to truck haven yesterday since the blow by issue developed.
So instead I started ordering up the parts for the bottom end.. non stick coated Pistons and rings. Going to get arp rod bolts and new bearings for the crank. High flow oil pump engine mounts and gaskets of course. Guess I'll be shopping for an engine stand and a lift too.
Crazy enough this build will come out pretty close to the cost of a new engine and I'll have better parts in it so there's a bright side....that is if you don't count everything for the turbo that already went in...
Rock auto sells crankshafts that have been turned already and comes with bearings. .depending on what your machine shop charges you can save some money. .ive used them many of times.
I run the speed pro pistons in couple motors (currently in my sc motor) pretty good pistons for price and "slightly"" stronger..
Thanks JD . I actually did order those speed pro pistons and their antifriction rings. I'll look into the cranks off rock auto. I'm trying to keep the machine work to a minimum ideally just those heads so that's probably the way to go. In the end I'll do what I have to to get the engine back in strong running form.
Heads and block boring. Doesnt matter what size you go over,you wont gain any power by going biggest you can..
Dont forget cam bearings also
Be careful which crank you get..the later ones are better but are 8 bolt so would need a new flywheel..there is also different key design for the crank and timming gear..95-97 should have the new key design and 6 bolt.98tm should have key and 8 bolt..personally id get the 8 bolt and new flywheel from them,think the flywheel is like $60.pretty cheap
Also if your getting a new timing set,make sure to get one where the lower gear DOESNT have the key made into in..the ones with the key made into it have broke before,ive broke one..
Ive actually already got the 8 bolt crank and flywheel in my truck currently. I'm hoping not to have to bore over but time will tell once I have it taken apart and can see if the block is in spec. I'll just have to exchange the pistons otherwise. I will do a timing set so that is also good to know. As always great info from experience and thank you for sharing it JD.
Awesome. ..id personally still over bore it to make sure its perfectly round and true..if you wasnt boosted i wouldnt be as worried but being you are,id definitely go the extra step to make sure..
More than likely you rings are clogged and stuck,why your getting blow bye.stuck or clogged rings cause uneven wear on the cylinders so have it checked good