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T3 T4 Hybrid Turbo OHV

Well I got tired of the 4.0 ohv not having any power on the highway climbing the hills on the 62 and having no low end in 4x4 high offroad, especially now that I have a pickup with a 5.7 v8 in it..

I've been lurking for some time since I've been kinda busy with work but, I got my hands on a Turbonetics T3 T4 hybrid so it's project time. It has the .48ar T3 turbine and a f1-57 trim T4 compressor. I expect this thing will spool FAST but I am not making any claims to being too familiar with forced induction..worst case scenario is there's a problem I can get a higher trim turbine.

I plan on having it live just behind and to the right of the alternator after doing test fitting. Its snug but should work nice to draw through my snorkel set up and for routing the exhaust.

Now, I have a concern about drawing through the stock airbox with a K&N drop in.. will this be too much suction and cause oil to get past the center housing seals?

If I hit full boost before highway cruising speed will that boost still be effective once in the higher RPM's? ie: is 7lb boost (where I plan to limit it at) at say, 1500 rpm still 7lb boost at 3k rpm?

Anyway, thanks in advance for the guru advice and input. I'll try to post through the project and get some pics up since everyone likes pics.

:usa: 'merica
 



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alright, lots of photos inbound and then i'll add text.
 



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FtMFxD.jpg

Turbo nestled into it's new home and bolted in tight. Took a little finesse with a crow bar to persuade bolt holes to line up but it all fits very nice.

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All the space with the filter out of the way. This is going to allow the filter to go in nearly vertically so my snorkle will still be functional

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Turbo in postition, tight clearance for the tensioner. but there's a lot of adjusting I can do if I need to.

KqHXlR.jpg

Wastegate with the vac hose running through the stock cross member. I may need to switch to silicon hose but I'll see how this works for now.

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Vac hose coming out of the housing port to run boost to the wastegate.
 






Quote:
Originally Posted by Caejxr View Post
4.56

Quote:
Originally Posted by jd4242 View Post
Auto or 5 speed.tire size



It's a 5 speed and manual t case as of about 2 years ago. I'm running 33x12.5 on 15x10 rims.
 






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Alright so I'm getting started on the oil drain I had to re-measure which works well for documenting.

To cut the hose you tape the braided line so it doesn't fray.
 






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I tape it half over either side want to cut so the remaining line doesn't fray either.

So, there's where I cut it. I prefer a dremel since the cut is fine and neat.
 






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Finished cut neat and tidy. I trim it clean so that its easier to shove it into the earls fittings.
 






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I leave the tape on and cram that sucker in there all the way up to the threads. This ensures that the seal is good and tight. I dont want any leaks.
 












Ran oil lines today. Didn't take a lot of pictures since it got dark but I will take more tomorrow when its light and upload them all.

I tapped the hole for the drain on the raised flat piece on the front of the oil pan just before the corner on the passenger side.
D3NYNC.jpg


Used a center punch to give the drill bit a good spot to bite before slowly drilling out the hole. Slow is key to keep any shavings from falling into the pan when it begins to cut through.

Once through I use bearing grease and my 1/2" tap and tap wrench to thread the hole. I slowly twist it in and back it out each time cleaning it before twisting it in a little further with fresh grease. All in an effort to keep shavings out. Once tapped I wrenched in the 1/2" to 10an drain adapter.

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I filled the pressure side line with oil and blew some into the turbo before hooking it up and turning the engine over so i could check for oil leaks on the new lines addressing a few drips on the pressure side. And checking to make sure the compressor wheel spins.

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So far so good. Just need to get the last few parts and the rest should be a breeze.

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Suspect he stole my missing wrenches
 






Impressive. You have skills. Coming along amazingly well.

I really didn't think getting that oil pan drain would go so easy.
 






Well there's still alot to do and places for me to screw up haha...and if I am honest, I was pleasantly suprised when oild didnt start running out of the pan there when I drilled that hole.

I figured it was safe even if it was slightly below or at oil line though because it will drain at the same rate that the engine pumps oil to it.. so even if it were at or below oil level there wouldn't be a backup in the drain line caused by oil since the flow wouldn't be changing significantly more pictures soon.
 






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3' of oil line runs behind/under the bracket for the power steeping pump.

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out of the bracket and behind the coolant line then behind/under the alternator and into the turbo.

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The more the turbo comes together, the more your placement makes perfect sense.
 






I wanted to keep from having to remove a/c (even if it doesnt work right now), fluid reservoirs, intake, etc. There's pros and cons just like with a remote mounted set up. It's a really tight fit in there but it eliminates the need for a scavange pump and shortens the distance for intake lines to be routed. Exhaust line routing gets a little tricky and the heat in the engine bay will probably go up a little. There's definately room for improvement on my plan and the exhaust routing I have currently is what I'd call more experimental. But, it should give others more ideas and help keep progress progressing!

Tomorrow I'm going to cut a hatch and start working the fuel pump upgrade. Intention is to create a latching hatch with a hinge and a seal. I may just cut some sheet metal and use self tapping screws and silicon sealant then cover it in herculiner though depends what the hardware store has.

I've still got a fair amount of $$ parts to gather..MAF, Injectors, Blowoff, and intake lines so I'm putting a rough time frame of September/October on completion dependant on budget and time available to turn wrenches.
 






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Got a late start and it got too dark to continue. A few minor cuts to make and then I can clean the top of the tank and pull the pump assy out. Probably going to go get a pop rivet gun and do a hinge and latches with some pickup tailgate seal I have left over from a different truck.

I, like many, chose not to drop the tank. Makes it easier if i ever need to open it up in the future, its 105 out, and the tank is full.. not to mention hitting the tin with a cutting wheel is way less work. So it just made sense for me.
 






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Someone please chime in if I'm missing the mark here...

I wanted to know exactly what Im looking at for this turbo on my ohv...According the the compressor map..I should see the full 7lb boost by 1300 rpm(what I'm looking for) where the pressure ratio crosses the surge line. The 7lb will hold through 4500 rpm if my lines and math are right. Those numbers are good if i don't plan on running over 4500 rpm. Am I interpreting the table correctly?

Also the efficiency would be better at 9lb Peaking at 3-4k rpm coming on at about 1400 rpm. Question is then would the juice be worth the squeeze. I would think the higher boost would reduce reliability due to risking damage long term which is not ideal offroad.
 












Tonight I got the 190lph pump installed and buttoned the tank up. Maybe it's just taking longer than expected to charge the lines? Right now I hit the ignition I hear the pump click on a run for a few seconds then turns off. I try to turn it over and no start. I've repeated this probably 10 time or so. Maybe I need to do it 10 more or ten more after that and I'll have it start?
 



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What pump did you use??it definitely shouldn't take longer..if anything it should be faster..
 






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