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T3 T4 Hybrid Turbo OHV

Well I got tired of the 4.0 ohv not having any power on the highway climbing the hills on the 62 and having no low end in 4x4 high offroad, especially now that I have a pickup with a 5.7 v8 in it..

I've been lurking for some time since I've been kinda busy with work but, I got my hands on a Turbonetics T3 T4 hybrid so it's project time. It has the .48ar T3 turbine and a f1-57 trim T4 compressor. I expect this thing will spool FAST but I am not making any claims to being too familiar with forced induction..worst case scenario is there's a problem I can get a higher trim turbine.

I plan on having it live just behind and to the right of the alternator after doing test fitting. Its snug but should work nice to draw through my snorkel set up and for routing the exhaust.

Now, I have a concern about drawing through the stock airbox with a K&N drop in.. will this be too much suction and cause oil to get past the center housing seals?

If I hit full boost before highway cruising speed will that boost still be effective once in the higher RPM's? ie: is 7lb boost (where I plan to limit it at) at say, 1500 rpm still 7lb boost at 3k rpm?

Anyway, thanks in advance for the guru advice and input. I'll try to post through the project and get some pics up since everyone likes pics.

:usa: 'merica
 



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Its a walbro 190 (gca710-2)
 



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yeah I got it from summit racing.

I'm not sure what the problem could be myself since the pump is turning on for about 2 sec. when I turn the power on which is normal. I try and turn it over a it cranks and I hear the pump briefly after that.

only thing I can think is maybe I didnt tighten the rubber hose between the line and pump enough? I can pull it tomorrow afternoon and check it all again.
 






Or bad fpr
 






Truck ran about an hour before I pulled the pump. I took it round the block to run it a little.

Would the increased volume cause the regulator to block off flow if it were bad?
 






Truck ran about an hour before I pulled the pump. I took it round the block to run it a little.

Would the increased volume cause the regulator to block off flow if it were bad?

Not really. .i run a much larger pump with no issues. .you get fuel at fuel rail??
 






I've gotta check there tomorrow as well.

After work tomorrow I'll double check the pump assembly and connections. Since that is what I made changes to it is the most likely source of the trouble.

I'll check in tomorrow after I've done some trouble shooting in the daylight, hopefully with good news.
 






The pump motor is priming for a second as it should. Did a line pop off the pump? Sounds like the pump is working, but you have no fuel pressure.
 






Alright gents I appreciate the assistance and ideas. I checked the pump assembly and then primed the line with fuel just to be sure. I'm wondering if maybe the plug on the frame wasn't seated all the way...after two cycles of the pump it started right up. So, can't wish for it to be easier than that.

Going to work on the cover for the hole tonight.
 






The beautiful thing is that you didn't have to drop the tank.
I didn't make an access hole when I did mine, so I'd have had the neighbourhood children running for home with their hands over their ears.
 






Yeah, haha I'm so glad that I cut that hole. I was thinking about it last night about how much it would suck if I had dropped it, re-installed then had t go and do it again. Could have been a lot worse.

Alright, so, slow progress ahead the next few months. Looking at doing the intake lines next while I save for the next big chuck of the project.
 






vfZiHX.jpg


Started shaping the sheet metal. Goal is to rub it into the same shape as the body to get the closest possible fit. Overlap of the sheet at body is about a half inch. didn't require much to drill a few holes after it was shaped and screw in the self tapping screws.

0bPzTK.jpg


Decided to go the sheet metal screw and silicon seal route. It's cheap, fast, reuseable and can be done with the stuff I have in the garage.

The sheet I have is a zinc alloy of some sort so it wont rust. I hit all the raw edges with some spray car paint I had for my wifes heep so I am confident it's a permanant solution.
 






Well, while I work on getting the remaining parts I'll be addressing little things that I may be able to find. Right now, some of the fender's tupperware is making contact with the down pipe and turbine section. I'll be trimming it with a knife hot from a propane torch.


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Got some more parts ordered, aluminum pipe and a tial adapter flange, also got a couple of silicon elbows for hot and cold sides of the intercooler.
 






Alright, I had the day off today so I fixed a few vac lines to the vacuum reservoir and poked at the intake a little. With the connectors I expect this week I'm going to experiment with running it before I buy the last few big ticket items I have left since it's "low boost".

Another thing I'm starting to plan for is the blowoff valve. Right now I'm planning on tapping the boost/vaccum for the BOV and vac/boost guage off the port for the brake booster. The only other option I see that would have it in a location I can use is the PCV port which I have read can cause poor operation of the BOV.. or by tapping a hole away from the TB.

I have an aluminum pipe inbound with a tial adapter I will put hotside of the intercooler for the BOV. Space constraints are making that location the roomiest for the BOV. I'm going to vent to atmosphere as the MAF will go cold side of the intercooler and it's less planning and easier to tune. Any input, I am happy to hear.
 






You probably already know this, but the bov goes before the maf.
Apparently its hard to tune out the stalling that occurs when the bov releases metered air.
 






Yeah, the blowoff will go right after the compressor on the aluminum pipe I have odered. The MAF will go a ways after the intercooler so it is blow through at about 12"-24" of pipe away from the throttle body. That will let me vent compressed air to atmosphere without it being metered into the engine or getting into the complications of recirculating the blowoff back before the compressor if I was drawing through the MAF.
 






Excellent! From your description, you mention getting the maf towards the end of a straight pipe so the incoming air straightens out and you get a good read. On my first try, I actually had my maf too close to the end of my straight pipe and it caused turbulence so tuning was an issue. I ended up moving mine a few inches.
 






Right so I'm thinking it will go from the 90 deg bend on the intercooler to an 18" verticle pipe, then the maf and a few inches of straight before a bend toward the tb. Probably not explaining it well but I'll post pictures when it comes together.
 



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My elbows showed up so I couldn't resist of course. I hooked some make shift pipes up to the intercooler and took it out around town.

I gotta be careful driving now. What accelerating I used to have to do to start out on corners from a stop kicks the back end out as soon as it hits about 1800rpm.

Truck practically feeds its self down the road once it reaches 30+ mph and in 4th gear it comfortably cruises at about 45 and still has pull with the slightest push of the pedal.

I cant wait to get this thing finished. Pictures coming. More to follow.
 






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