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Tackling Runaway Roof Rust!

Discussion in 'Stock 1991 - 1994 Explorers' started by 91Rustbucket, December 16, 2017.

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    1. 91Rustbucket

      91Rustbucket New Member

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      I've got a pretty bad roof rust problem, and I'm trying to get together a game plan to tackle it right and paint the whole vehicle this summer. As you can see there have been multiple attempts to fix it before 4+ and counting! I would like to remove the whole upper rack assembly and bumpers, sand down to bare metal, and paint with something rust resistant. Then move onto painting the whole vehicle. I have to idea how to remove the rack/bumpers, they look like they're riveted in place, but I cant figure out how they would be reinstalled. Has anyone done this, or have any advice for prime/paint products that have worked well in the past?

      20171216_124139.jpg
       
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    3. Rick

      Rick Pumpkin Pilot Staff Member Admin Elite Explorer

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    4. 91Rustbucket

      91Rustbucket New Member

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      Have you used those before? How much "bulge" do they leave underneath? Like would I see it in my headliner?
       
    5. Rick

      Rick Pumpkin Pilot Staff Member Admin Elite Explorer

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      I used them on my roof and didn't have a problem with them protruding into the headliner. They come in different depths and screw sizes.
       
    6. Centaurious

      Centaurious Active Member

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      Use the red/brown primer not the grey, grey is for priming over existing paint, red is for protecting bare metal or filler.
       
    7. Mbrooks420

      Mbrooks420 High Voltage. Elite Explorer

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      You will only slow that amount of rust down, you will never stop it. Lots and lots of sanding, and make sure it is CLEAN before any primer goes on.
       
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    8. Dan R

      Dan R New Member

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      Muriatic acid, available at the hardware store, is a great rust converter. I spray it on the frame.
       
    9. Mbrooks420

      Mbrooks420 High Voltage. Elite Explorer

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      Muriatic acid is a bad choice of acids to use. Phosphoric is much safer, and a better long term solution. Also, ANY acid must be neutralized, not just slapped on.
       
    10. kmack

      kmack Member

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      +1 ^

      If you don't neutralize muriatic acid, it will continue to eat away at the metal. I used it once to clean out rust from an old gas tank years ago. Looked beautiful inside, nice & shiny! 2 years later and I couldn't keep a fuel filter on the car more than 2 weeks before it was clogged with rust. Phosphoric acid can be used to etch the metal and "convert" the rust prior to primer. Similar products like this can be found: Klean-Strip®

      Best bet would be to go to a paint supply store and get their recommendation. Most likely they will steer you in the direction of an etching primer after you sand most of the rust down.
       
    11. Roadrunner777

      Roadrunner777 Well-Known Member

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      The dinner plate on the center console is a nice touch! But seriously, I have the rustiest Explorer in Minnesota, and my roof isn't nearly that bad. Weird.
       
    12. Spudhut

      Spudhut US Navy Submariner Elite Explorer

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      Sand and wire wheel the roof very well. Use metal picks (dental tools) to clean out the pits if you need to. You can use an acid solution (POR15) but make sure you neutralize it right away or it will rust overnight. Get all the rust out, even in the pits.

      The best primer you can use is an epoxy primer/sealer as it is a very dense/hard primer. Lay it evenly and do it under the right temperatures too.

      Do any body work on top of the epoxy primer and use the primer of choice (except lacquer primer); I prefer a DTM (Direct to Metal/High Build primer). After all body work is completed, sand and make ready for paint. If you want a temporary solution, the Epoxy primer is great to lay down to do do the finish work on a later date....Always try to keep it dry. Primer can be porous and cause rust to form later down the road under it (bubbles).
       
    13. 91Rustbucket

      91Rustbucket New Member

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      You guys have given me a lot to think about, thank you. I've been looking into the rubber blind rivet nuts and have some questions.

      Been looking at the online pictures and notice that they're hollow and remain hollow after you secure them with the bolt...how do you keep the water out? I know dumb question, but I'd hate to drill out those rub rails paint then re-install them and figure out when I have a headliner full of water.
       
    14. 91Rustbucket

      91Rustbucket New Member

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    15. Mbrooks420

      Mbrooks420 High Voltage. Elite Explorer

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      When I was building LED signs we used them, and just screwed the bolt through silicon.
       
    16. 91Rustbucket

      91Rustbucket New Member

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      So you add silicon and leave the bolt head in place? I'm afraid that will stick out above my rub rails and negate the affect of the rubber in the first place.
       
      Last edited: April 6, 2018
    17. Mbrooks420

      Mbrooks420 High Voltage. Elite Explorer

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      I’d use a flush head Allen, a truss screw, or low profile button head.
       

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