Discussion in 'Offroad Projects' started by TheBlackPearl, November 3, 2017.
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Well I got the stock coil buckets off... those are going to Gman in a few weeks.
The end of the week is supposed to be subfreezing but hopefully I can get some more work done on the truck, at the very least id like to get the brackets setup for the upper coils and get the frame fish plated on the drivers side in preparation for the track bar frame side bracket
Well braved the cold tonight and got some work done on the ballistic coil brackets. I've seen a lot of guys (some explorers) run the frame side of the bracket upside down hooking into the bottom but the frame with no issues so I figured I'd run mine that was, plus having to push the buckets out 2 Indus worked perfect for using the ballistic ones as a template.
I don't know if its over kill or Not but I'm going to add some 1/4 plate between the two frame side brackets tying them together, between the ballistic side and the one I cut out this evening.
On the drivers side, in regards to the buldge in the frame, once the frame brackets are finished the top will be ground down to meet with the bulge and welded there as well.
Once the brackets are in place I think it's time to start getting the frame played around the frame/power steering bolts.
the plan last weekend was to get the coil buckets ready to weld on. i picked up a piece of plate from a coworker 25x18 for 20 bucks, i thought it was 1/4 inch but after actually measuring it... its 3/8 plate so i need to go to the hardware store and pickup a few more pieces of 1/4 to finish up the buckets, that will get done this weekend
Nice...im putting the same buckets on my Gen2. We must have been waiting for the same batch to be cut out and shipped, finally got mine last week too.
ive had mine for a few weeks, bought them "used" still in the original package and unwelded from a guy who went a different route, $150 for the adjustable brackets and 6 inch full size bronco coils.
Good to see some work done
might be a dumb question but im new to the TIB stuff. why did you cut off your original coil buckets off of the frame and buy the balistic ones? could you have used the original coil buckets, or were they in the wrong location or what?
I'm running full width axles and also moving the axle forward a few inches.
With full width and the stock location (coil buckets) the coil springs bow in at the top because the axle is about 6 inches (iF i remember correctly) wider Then the stock stuff so you Have to space out the upper buckets.
Most guys will run a factory style 78ish bronco/f150 upper coil bucket and use a piece of 2 square tubing bolted and/or welded to the backside of the bucket to the frame to make up for the additional width.
Also with these particular ballistic fab buckets, they are adjustable vertically 5 inches. Also I got them and a set up full size bronco 6 lift coils for 150 locally.
I used the frame side of the bucket make a second set to those brackets (they are 2 inches wide) to make up the two inches of extra width.
So if you don’t run a full width Dana 44 you shouldn’t have to change the coil buckets?
1st gen buckets and shock towers are together as one pc. Doing the sas, your going to want individual components, for a longer shock, and possibly change the mounting location a little. That and different style coils, with the buckets. The aftermarket parts are also a lot thicker than the thin stamped stock parts.
What Gman said. Also if you find an early bronco d44 you don't have to change the mounts as Those axles are only like an inch or so wider than the dana 35.
Also with an eb solid axle guys will cut the shock mount off the explorer setup and out a set of f250 shock towers on.
question of the day:
i see a lot of guys welding a section of tubing to the center of the upper coil bucket; The buckets ive got are built for Xjs, but are kinda universal, are the coil is retained with a plate and bolt kinda like the lower spring cup on the axle side.
the theory with the tubing is to let the coil drop away from the upper bracket so the springs are not the limiting factor for articulation and axle droop.
should i run with the retainer/bolt design or weld up the tubing like a lot of guys do?
(thinking i might start with the retainer as i can always unbolt the bucket later and weld in the tube later, just thinking out loud and wondering what the peanut gallery has to say.)
Could do both. That way if the coil does "Pop" out, the tube will keep it from moving out of place, and upon lowering, the coil will slide back into place.
True, Id have to weld the nut or bolt to the retainer permanently cause i wouldn't be able to access it with the tube installed. i don't think the coil itself will be the limiting component of my front suspension... but we can dream cant we lol.
usually when i see pictures of guys running the tube, the coil has dropped 6-12 inches away from the upper bracket.
ive seen guys run that tube as i bump stop too, that doesn't seem like a bad idea either.
apparently this is on the ranger forum... guy called it a "coil slider" lol
You could use stock coil buckets even but the limit up travel and coil length my silver one was done unwell this way because the didnt do the ( things in pic above ) I call them jeep di**s or limiting straps and they spaced the axle forward with the coil 2 1/2"
Backward on steel blocks its jank but held 3 years and hour hard travel to work would work great with lower EB mounts and jeep coils
That picture in post 40 is one sloppy SAS, with the coil bucket, shock mounts and panhard mount all at different angles. The tube down the center of the coil springs is something jeep has been doing for years to gain more down travel with shorter coil springs. It works. @Rick used to have his front axle set up that way before he went to coilovers and it worked, but was noisy.
Yeah I wasn't too worried about the picture just to give guys an idea what I was talking about if I wasn't making sense to them.
What's your opinion on the way the track bar mount is sitting? I've seen a few guys do it and was thinking that would be a good way to avoid the steering box bolts, or at least incorporate the bolts into the mount
It appears the track bar mount is bending or being pulled downward. I don't understand why the bracket has a hole, it should have had a full piece of plate to strengthen it.
Using the existing bolts in the frame are a good idea, as long as the geometry is correct.
that hole is to gain access to the rear-most bolt for the steering box. depending on the geometry and axle placement that may be unavoidable for some... im thinking thats what will have to be done with mine as well.
or i may run it just forward of that bolt, enough to be able to lay a solid weld and still be able to remove the bolt... track bar is the last of my worries right now but everything has to be considered throughout the build.
"that hole is to gain access to the rear-most bolt for the steering box. depending on the geometry and axle placement"
I didn't even see that...you could plate it all the way through, then add a hole big enough for socket to fit and press a bevel on it for added strength....
Believe me, I understand your thought on the bars, I'm in the process of figuring out my 3-link conversion geometry for my Gen2...(I have read so much on the concept, my brain is toast - I cant read another thread on the subject - its so convoluted, I wish someone would post some spec's on their builds to give a good but rough idea on their successes .)...its amazing how a simple add to your vehicle can be the most involved
the problem with each build is that they are always different, there are about a dozen or so builds that i can going off of for my build, not just one specifically.
awesome little update:
i have used C&M Gear Works in Springfield, MO to get a few odds and ends parts for the Dana 44 and they usually ship quickly (cause my work hours are the same as theirs i always have them ship me stuff) and i called this afternoon to get a pinion bearing baffle and it was only $1.85 plus shipping and i went to give Chris my credit card info and he said not to worry about it cause ive ordered stuff before... how awesome is that?? The baffle should be here tomorrow or friday so i cant get the gears and axles back into the 44
Here is my track bar mount. Crappy pictures, but you can see the rear steering gear box bolt in the hole cut out of the mount. In the final version, I had to drop the bracket about three inches to get the track bar on the same angle as the drag link so I built off the original mount instead of cutting it off. It made for a much stronger mount because its double thickness for all of the length below the frame, and plug welded through the original holes. I also welded a piece of 1" OD, 1/4" wall DOM tube from the bottom half of the mount up to the engine cross member that you can see in the second picture.