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The Detailing Thread

Discussion in 'Body Work & Detailing' started by Concours.John, December 10, 2017.

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    1. Concours.John

      Concours.John Elite Explorer

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      I made this thread to contribute to this community.First off I want nothing from this. Just offering over 20 years experience in the show car field. Here I will answer any questions on Rinseless washing, Waterless washing, andTwo bucket method. I can also share on polishing (my specialty) . I will also talk about interior cleaning and chemicals. Then ceramic or other coatings. Understand I will not accept work from this site. I am an owner and want to share, this all will be how to do it right for free. So ask away.
       
      Last edited: December 10, 2017
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    3. PooPooSandwich

      PooPooSandwich New Member

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      Just recently got a Torq for Christmas since I've been wanting to detail my White Explorer. I was so excited! I've polished cars before, but just basic jane. This time I need a good detail and was thinking it would be easy. But after trying to figure out what to do and how many different ways I'm still confused :(.

      I have hard water deposits on the car as well as swirl marks.

      I thought I would compound because I've read about that but then I was reading it scratches your car and that's not what I want. I just want to make it shine again without water marks all on the side of my car.

      I also thought Chemical Guys was supposed to be the best, but there are so many other things out there. :(

      With the torq, do you recommend any brand for the Explorer? Also any order?
       
    4. Concours.John

      Concours.John Elite Explorer

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      I will try and address this in order. It may be a little long but hope it helps in diagnosing the problem for you and others.

      First thing with the water spots would be to figure out where they are coming from. IE; sprinklers, water drying during wash be it wash water or rinse water, or contaminated rain. All leave a different or more extreme condition behind. Some even etch into the clear slightly. Soap water spots will usually wash away or clay off. All others leave some sort of contamination behind that bonds to the surface as the water evaporates. These minerals or deposits are what forms the "ring" as the deposits float to the edge following the surface tension of the droplet. In severely contaminated water it may form the "ring" and a dull looking center. This is very common but typically minor from drive through car washes and their recycled water. In other cases it is heavy mineral content.

      The Following Must Be Done in a Shaded Area or Garage:
      When dealing with water spots the thing to remember is something is bonded to the paint. The first step would be a thorough wash insuring water is not drying on the surface. Then a decontamination first with a clay bar and dedicated lube spray (these are sold in kits in virtually every auto parts store or online). The next step would be to neutralize and remove any minerals left behind. In mild cases (soap residue spotting and mild water spots) a soft microfiber soaked in distilled white vinegar works (best to buy a gallon for whole car use). You are not scrubbing but gently washing the surface repeatedly with it keeping the surface wet. It is best to do a test area to see if this effective or not and thoroughly rinsing after with a rinse less or waterless wash solution. If the vinegar seems to do nothing a dedicated water/mineral spot remover may be necessary such as Optimum MDR or Car Pro Spotless. The process is the same and they both need rinsed after and not recommended to dry on surface. Follow the directions on the bottle. I have used both and directions are on point. After all this you may still be left with etching and polishing may still be needed. However this step still needs to be done prior to polish. The oils in any polish tend to fill theses defects and they will return. Yes in the past it was common practice to take a compound and remove them. However you are removing a substantial amount of clear to do it. This could result in early clear coat failure. The late 80's Mustangs and other Fords later came new with horrible etching and many that were "fixed" ended up with paint failure.

      As far as going onto polishing (note not compounding). Modern paint (post 90) reacts very well to less abrasive technology. You said you have some experience which is good. It really is not that daunting. You just need proper tools. These cars are what I call slab cars as there are not tons of tight areas. If you can tell me what equipment you have I can point you in a low stress low budget approach.

      As far as after care and washing please google videos on ONR rinse less and waterless washing. Also the two bucket method. If it is ok with Mods I can also post some links to videos done by people I trust. You are right there is so much out there and unfortunately most are rebranded products with new marketing hype. Feel free to ask me to fill in any blanks regarding sealants and post polishing environmental protection.
       
      Last edited: December 29, 2017
    5. PooPooSandwich

      PooPooSandwich New Member

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      The vinegar/water combo didn't seem to work for me. It's from sprinklers. This street has nothing but hard water water wasters. It's so annoying to try and find a spot where I can park where it doesn't get wet. I do not have driveway parking. This is what I just got for Christmas, but if I really don't need it, I would rather return it and get something I might use more often?
      I also have clay bar which I like and keeps the car smooth but doesn't help with the side of the car that's water damaged. Oh and the spots on my car are with the car being clean

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    6. Concours.John

      Concours.John Elite Explorer

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      Keep it. good for your situation. Look into Meguiars microfiber polishing pads and Meg's 205 polish for correction then use foam for final finish. On white you may be good with just MF pad and 205. Just need to determine if you have six inch or 5 inch backing plate before ordering for pads. Foam will just heat up and mask defects if you need to cut defects. As far as sealing after for prevention Car Pro reload is as close to a coating you can get it has a small amount of Sio2 in it making it pretty durable and resistant. It is also great on plastic.
       
      Last edited: December 29, 2017
    7. Dora2.0

      Dora2.0 New Member

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      What's your opinion on best (ceramic) coating to apply? There are many options out there - CQuartz, Chemical Guys etc. and the pricing varies quite a bit as well. I'm planning on doing the application myself when my Sport arrives in about a month or so. Not the best time of the year to do it considering the winter we're having here in Southern Ontario, however I have heard that it's best to do it ASAP as the paint would obviously be in the best shape.

      Thanks.
       
    8. Concours.John

      Concours.John Elite Explorer

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      I have not used Chemical Guys so I can not vouch for it honestly. I am a C.Quartz Finest approved installer and have used all three.
      I can say C.Quartz UK is more suited for your climate and very durable. I have also used Optimum Pro Plus. I believe the consumer product is Gloss Coat now which is also good. The main thing about coatings is in the prep and install. The paint needs to be free of contaminants, waxes or sealants. As these products offer superior protection they do not fill defects and polishing is recommended. The pro lines polishing is required (Finest, Pro Plus). Temperature and humidity at time of install greatly affects flash times and it really needs to be done in a controlled environment with temps above 65 degrees. I highly recommend doing some you tube video research on installing which ever you choose. Any excess will leave high spots (dull looking areas) which are very difficult to remove once cured. Many if not all require a 24hr. no water or weather wait period before putting vehicle back into service.
       
    9. Daviswilson259

      Daviswilson259 New Member

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    10. Daviswilson259

      Daviswilson259 New Member

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      It seems that Vinegar/Water combo doesn't worked for you and that spots are looking really dirty on your car, I will recommend you to use Ultima Fine Cut & Polish to remove those spots. It really makes your car shiny and glossy at very less efforts.
       
    11. Dora2.0

      Dora2.0 New Member

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      Thanks for the tips.
       
    12. karlos2

      karlos2 Member

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      Had success using Optimum MDR Mineral Deposit Remover. It can dissolve water spots.
       

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