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The everything Aviator thread.

Discussion in 'Ford Lincoln Mercury' started by AviatorGuy, March 16, 2010.


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    1. Rasec143

      Rasec143 New Member

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      dml996- you may have just gotten a crappy set of cops like i did. the first set i got from amazon were the eccpp brand ($30 for a set of 8) and they didn't last one day of average driving for me.
      i think i put on like 80 miles or so that day. mostly stop and go city driving and they failed horribly.
      by 4pm they were misfiring like crazy. all random. they were misfiring worse than the ones i was replacing.
      to get a better idea whether or not its your cops or engine that has the issue, swap cops from a cylinder that has no issue with one that has it. erase codes. if the problem switches to the cylinder you knew had no issue, then you know its the cops. if it doesn't. then its either a bad spark plug/ bad connection/cylinder itself.
      are your plugs new? fully seated? i read this engine has a habit of kicking plugs out. also while online i notice a lot of sellers selling new connectors for the cops. the way the engine is designed with the plate covering cops and connectors, i can see them failing in time with all that extra heat building up in there. crappy design in my opinion.


      well here's an update on the new cops i put in. these are the parts galaxy brand on amazon. $40 for a set of 8.
      i installed the new cops last sunday. now since then the temps have dropped and i haven't driven as much as i usually do but ive put on 100-150 miles this week running the new cops and so far, no more misfire. because they're new, i run the engine harder than i normally would to see if i get a failure. hard acceleration from stops etc.
      i still have a check engine code but its still 02 sensors and my gas mileage is still lower than it should be. i have catalytic converter rattle and with the way it was running when i first got it, wouldn't be surprised if the cats and muffler are gone.
      all that aside, since i put in the new cops, accelleration is smooth, responsive. strong off the line and passing at highway speeds.
      smooth idle. quiet engine.

      so far so good. i got 90 days to swap them out if something fails. im hoping for some warmer weather to see if these things hold up to the heat. i figure even at 90 days, if i have to swap them, then its $40 for all 8 as opposed to $320 for a set of motorcraft, i'm cool with it. $40 bucks is like a crap dinner at tgif without drinks.

      ill pop in some new 02 sensors and start fiddling with the abs sensors to see if one is out or if its just the main module acting screwey.
      i have the same issue on my mustang.

      repairs done-
      tune up- $25
      Replace valve cover gasket/tube seals-$26. (valve gasket was fine. tube seals were leaking)
      oil change- $26.
      replace valve stems on 2 tires - $30 total.

      so far so good.
      For a fully loaded truck with all the bells and whistles that cost me $906, im not complaining.
       
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    3. jd4242

      jd4242 Explorer Addict

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      Advance or autozone can loan you one..you want to drive it and get it warm.then pull the fuel pump relay,start it and let it die..then pull the driveside COP cover off and pull all the plugs on the driverside. .install the compression test in each cylinder cranking it over and test for compression. .they all should be close to each other,anything under about 100psi shouldnt fire and cause a miss tho..cylinder 5 usually will test the best,7 and 8 usually are the first to start going bad but any could be..

      The driverside is a dead end for cooling on the back of the head,causes the seat to come loose when hot or high rpms..there is a cooling mod you can do to let water outa the back of the head but thats a different topic. .id start with compression before buying anymore COPs
       
    4. jd4242

      jd4242 Explorer Addict

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      Advance or autozone can loan you one..you want to drive it and get it warm.then pull the fuel pump relay,start it and let it die..then pull the driveside COP cover off and pull all the plugs on the driverside. .install the compression test in each cylinder cranking it over and test for compression. .they all should be close to each other,anything under about 100psi shouldnt fire and cause a miss tho..cylinder 5 usually will test the best,7 and 8 usually are the first to start going bad but any could be..

      The driverside is a dead end for cooling on the back of the head,causes the seat to come loose when hot or high rpms..there is a cooling mod you can do to let water outa the back of the head but thats a different topic. .id start with compression before buying anymore COPs
       
    5. jd4242

      jd4242 Explorer Addict

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      Id still bet on loose seats..they tend to start coming loose when hot or when higher rpms ..

      Are you doing a proper master reset or have done one yet?? There is a youtube video if you dont know how

      Also if ots bank 2 O2s for insufficient flow probably means you clogged a cat with all the missfires
       
    6. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Has anyone deleted the crossover tube on their Aviator? I've built a 2003 Aviator engine to install in my 2003 Explorer Centennial and the Aviator cooling system seems inferior to the Explorer cooling system. The Explorer has a crossover path between the heads internal to the intake manifold. The thermostat housing is above the driver side head port and the port for the heater is above the passenger side head port.
      HeaterSupplyExplorer.jpg
      The heater tube flows coolant from the heads on the engine side of the thermostat. When the thermostat opens coolant from the heads is allowed to flow to the top port of the radiator. The radiator bottom port is connected by a hose to the oil filter adapter allowing cooled coolant to enter the block inlet port.
      The Aviator has an external crossover tube that connects directly to the head ports.
      CoolantSysDiagrmAviator.jpg
      Hose 13 goes to the top of the radiator. Hose 15 goes to the heater. Hose 17 goes to the thermostat housing port on the temperature sensing end of the thermostat.
      Adapter2.jpg
      Note there are 4 small holes in the thermostat face that allows reduced flow of coolant downward or air bubbles upward. This thermostat was made in Germany and starts opening at 177 degrees F and is fully open at 183 degrees F. The Rock Auto photo of the Motorcraft thermostat shows no holes. The radiator bottom hose goes to the valve end of the thermostat.
      ThermostatV.jpg
      When the thermostat is open cooled coolant is allowed to flow from the radiator into the block.
      Adapter1.jpg
      The only flow represented by the red arrow is due to the small 4 holes. This flow reduces the time required for the thermostat to sense the engine internal coolant has reached operating temperature. Thermostats without any holes rely on conduction of heat thru the coolant in the upper hose and metal tubes to the heads. I suspect there is a measurable drop in temperature from the head port to the thermostat sensor. I would like to implement a functional equivalent of the Explorer configuration.
       
    7. Rasec143

      Rasec143 New Member

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      jd4242 thanks for letting me know about the master reset. i did that earlier today on my aviator and took it for a little ride for about an hour or so. mixed driving streets/highway.

      advancetrack popped back up after a bit but so far so good. no check engine light. no abs light.
      truck runs smoother than before and acceleration/ gas mileage has improved too.
      if the check engine light comes on again i'll see what codes come up.
       
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    8. dml996

      dml996 New Member

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      Master reset?
      Do you have a link? All i found on you tube was how to reste the car radio
       
    9. jd4242

      jd4242 Explorer Addict

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    10. dml996

      dml996 New Member

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      Did the compression test
      cyl 8 =170
      Cyl 7 = 65
      cyl6 =165
      cyl 5= 165
      Am i completely screwed?
      Any magic formula i can pour in there :(

      Just purchased the car last week from an individual , looks like he sold me a lemon.
       
    11. jd4242

      jd4242 Explorer Addict

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      No magic..heads have to come off..new seats and guides. .i just paid $998 for mine to get done..not including gaskets or anything else
       
    12. dml996

      dml996 New Member

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      May i ask where does one start looking for a reputable shop that can handle this?
      All i ever see are places that do brakes, transmission shops, tires and oil changes.
      I wouldn't consider taking it to the dealer for obvious reasons.

      Honestly if its around $1000 for the repair i could live with that because overall its a really really nice ride.
       
    13. jd4242

      jd4242 Explorer Addict

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      O no thats just for the machine cost..if you take it to someone to do it,id suggest you just sell it and buy a 2005 if you really like aviators. .it would cost probably $3,000 plus easy if not more if they did all the work
       
    14. dml996

      dml996 New Member

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    15. jd4242

      jd4242 Explorer Addict

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      Eww thats not good..the DC cast heads are less likely to drop valve seats.the DC head is one of the best heads made...look through the fender well right about the exhaust manifold,should be a cast number ending in DC and a circle with the month stamped, just wanna make sure its a 05 DC head.

      Next you could do a leak down to confirm if its rings or valve seat..or even pull that valve cover and see if a followers or lash adjuster is broken keeping a vlave open
       
    16. dml996

      dml996 New Member

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      Its production date is 06/05. The stamp on the block is 05 inside a circle
       
    17. jd4242

      jd4242 Explorer Addict

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      Definitely should be a DC cast head then..id pull the valve cover and check things out..one or some of the valves should be slightly stuck open if the seat is bad but id make sure something else was keeping it open,like bad follower or lash adjuster. .then leak down if cant see anything
       
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    18. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      I got my heads rebuilt at Dover Cylinder Head Services, 1489 Cedar Lane Rd, Greenville, SC 29617, (864) 294-7741. It's a family business that has been around for many years. They have an excellent reputation.

      I agree with jd4242 to pull the valve cover and investigate. There may be only 1 intake valve opening in that cylinder resulting from a thrown cam follower.
      InVlvSpring2.jpg
       
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    19. dml996

      dml996 New Member

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      -Any links on what to look for on lash adjusters or followers. Going to take it apart this weekend. Thanks for all the advice so far!
       
    20. jccpd

      jccpd New Member

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      Opening up a new Aviator topic here, if I may.
      I have a 2004 Aviator that came factory with halogen headlights. I found another Aviator that had factory HIDs and grabbed them. I took off the old headlights and plugged in the newly acquired HID housings and they seem to work. However, I was looking at a fuse diagram and found that the factory HID vehicles have a few wiring differences than my non-HID Aviator. Specifically, there is a module on the passenger fender well that has three "fuses" in it on the HID vehicle, but my Aviator has only one "fuse" and where the other two fuses go there are no metal spades to attach fuses.
      Further, on the main power box on the driver's side fender well there are two spaded fuses on the HID Aviator, however my halogen Aviator has missing fuses and only one metal spade in these same spaces.
      So, I guess the question is, should I be looking for the wiring to upgrade my Aviator to the HID specific wiring harness?
      The lights seem to work, as the ballasts are enclosed within the headlight assembly, but I have driven the vehicle at night to left them on for any length of time, because I do not want to cause unforeseen electrical problems. Any thoughts?
       

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