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The everything Aviator thread.

Discussion in 'Ford Lincoln Mercury' started by AviatorGuy, March 16, 2010.


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    1. Rasec143

      Rasec143 New Member

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      dml996- you may have just gotten a crappy set of cops like i did. the first set i got from amazon were the eccpp brand ($30 for a set of 8) and they didn't last one day of average driving for me.
      i think i put on like 80 miles or so that day. mostly stop and go city driving and they failed horribly.
      by 4pm they were misfiring like crazy. all random. they were misfiring worse than the ones i was replacing.
      to get a better idea whether or not its your cops or engine that has the issue, swap cops from a cylinder that has no issue with one that has it. erase codes. if the problem switches to the cylinder you knew had no issue, then you know its the cops. if it doesn't. then its either a bad spark plug/ bad connection/cylinder itself.
      are your plugs new? fully seated? i read this engine has a habit of kicking plugs out. also while online i notice a lot of sellers selling new connectors for the cops. the way the engine is designed with the plate covering cops and connectors, i can see them failing in time with all that extra heat building up in there. crappy design in my opinion.


      well here's an update on the new cops i put in. these are the parts galaxy brand on amazon. $40 for a set of 8.
      i installed the new cops last sunday. now since then the temps have dropped and i haven't driven as much as i usually do but ive put on 100-150 miles this week running the new cops and so far, no more misfire. because they're new, i run the engine harder than i normally would to see if i get a failure. hard acceleration from stops etc.
      i still have a check engine code but its still 02 sensors and my gas mileage is still lower than it should be. i have catalytic converter rattle and with the way it was running when i first got it, wouldn't be surprised if the cats and muffler are gone.
      all that aside, since i put in the new cops, accelleration is smooth, responsive. strong off the line and passing at highway speeds.
      smooth idle. quiet engine.

      so far so good. i got 90 days to swap them out if something fails. im hoping for some warmer weather to see if these things hold up to the heat. i figure even at 90 days, if i have to swap them, then its $40 for all 8 as opposed to $320 for a set of motorcraft, i'm cool with it. $40 bucks is like a crap dinner at tgif without drinks.

      ill pop in some new 02 sensors and start fiddling with the abs sensors to see if one is out or if its just the main module acting screwey.
      i have the same issue on my mustang.

      repairs done-
      tune up- $25
      Replace valve cover gasket/tube seals-$26. (valve gasket was fine. tube seals were leaking)
      oil change- $26.
      replace valve stems on 2 tires - $30 total.

      so far so good.
      For a fully loaded truck with all the bells and whistles that cost me $906, im not complaining.
       
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    3. jd4242

      jd4242 Elite Explorer

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      Advance or autozone can loan you one..you want to drive it and get it warm.then pull the fuel pump relay,start it and let it die..then pull the driveside COP cover off and pull all the plugs on the driverside. .install the compression test in each cylinder cranking it over and test for compression. .they all should be close to each other,anything under about 100psi shouldnt fire and cause a miss tho..cylinder 5 usually will test the best,7 and 8 usually are the first to start going bad but any could be..

      The driverside is a dead end for cooling on the back of the head,causes the seat to come loose when hot or high rpms..there is a cooling mod you can do to let water outa the back of the head but thats a different topic. .id start with compression before buying anymore COPs
       
    4. jd4242

      jd4242 Elite Explorer

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      Advance or autozone can loan you one..you want to drive it and get it warm.then pull the fuel pump relay,start it and let it die..then pull the driveside COP cover off and pull all the plugs on the driverside. .install the compression test in each cylinder cranking it over and test for compression. .they all should be close to each other,anything under about 100psi shouldnt fire and cause a miss tho..cylinder 5 usually will test the best,7 and 8 usually are the first to start going bad but any could be..

      The driverside is a dead end for cooling on the back of the head,causes the seat to come loose when hot or high rpms..there is a cooling mod you can do to let water outa the back of the head but thats a different topic. .id start with compression before buying anymore COPs
       
    5. jd4242

      jd4242 Elite Explorer

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      Id still bet on loose seats..they tend to start coming loose when hot or when higher rpms ..

      Are you doing a proper master reset or have done one yet?? There is a youtube video if you dont know how

      Also if ots bank 2 O2s for insufficient flow probably means you clogged a cat with all the missfires
       
    6. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Has anyone deleted the crossover tube on their Aviator? I've built a 2003 Aviator engine to install in my 2003 Explorer Centennial and the Aviator cooling system seems inferior to the Explorer cooling system. The Explorer has a crossover path between the heads internal to the intake manifold. The thermostat housing is above the driver side head port and the port for the heater is above the passenger side head port.
      HeaterSupplyExplorer.jpg
      The heater tube flows coolant from the heads on the engine side of the thermostat. When the thermostat opens coolant from the heads is allowed to flow to the top port of the radiator. The radiator bottom port is connected by a hose to the oil filter adapter allowing cooled coolant to enter the block inlet port.
      The Aviator has an external crossover tube that connects directly to the head ports.
      CoolantSysDiagrmAviator.jpg
      Hose 13 goes to the top of the radiator. Hose 15 goes to the heater. Hose 17 goes to the thermostat housing port on the temperature sensing end of the thermostat.
      Adapter2.jpg
      Note there are 4 small holes in the thermostat face that allows reduced flow of coolant downward or air bubbles upward. This thermostat was made in Germany and starts opening at 177 degrees F and is fully open at 183 degrees F. The Rock Auto photo of the Motorcraft thermostat shows no holes. The radiator bottom hose goes to the valve end of the thermostat.
      ThermostatV.jpg
      When the thermostat is open cooled coolant is allowed to flow from the radiator into the block.
      Adapter1.jpg
      The only flow represented by the red arrow is due to the small 4 holes. This flow reduces the time required for the thermostat to sense the engine internal coolant has reached operating temperature. Thermostats without any holes rely on conduction of heat thru the coolant in the upper hose and metal tubes to the heads. I suspect there is a measurable drop in temperature from the head port to the thermostat sensor. I would like to implement a functional equivalent of the Explorer configuration.
       
    7. Rasec143

      Rasec143 New Member

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      jd4242 thanks for letting me know about the master reset. i did that earlier today on my aviator and took it for a little ride for about an hour or so. mixed driving streets/highway.

      advancetrack popped back up after a bit but so far so good. no check engine light. no abs light.
      truck runs smoother than before and acceleration/ gas mileage has improved too.
      if the check engine light comes on again i'll see what codes come up.
       
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    8. dml996

      dml996 New Member

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      Master reset?
      Do you have a link? All i found on you tube was how to reste the car radio
       
    9. jd4242

      jd4242 Elite Explorer

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    10. dml996

      dml996 New Member

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      Did the compression test
      cyl 8 =170
      Cyl 7 = 65
      cyl6 =165
      cyl 5= 165
      Am i completely screwed?
      Any magic formula i can pour in there :(

      Just purchased the car last week from an individual , looks like he sold me a lemon.
       
    11. jd4242

      jd4242 Elite Explorer

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      No magic..heads have to come off..new seats and guides. .i just paid $998 for mine to get done..not including gaskets or anything else
       
    12. dml996

      dml996 New Member

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      May i ask where does one start looking for a reputable shop that can handle this?
      All i ever see are places that do brakes, transmission shops, tires and oil changes.
      I wouldn't consider taking it to the dealer for obvious reasons.

      Honestly if its around $1000 for the repair i could live with that because overall its a really really nice ride.
       
    13. jd4242

      jd4242 Elite Explorer

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      O no thats just for the machine cost..if you take it to someone to do it,id suggest you just sell it and buy a 2005 if you really like aviators. .it would cost probably $3,000 plus easy if not more if they did all the work
       
    14. dml996

      dml996 New Member

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      it is a 2005!
       

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    15. jd4242

      jd4242 Elite Explorer

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      Eww thats not good..the DC cast heads are less likely to drop valve seats.the DC head is one of the best heads made...look through the fender well right about the exhaust manifold,should be a cast number ending in DC and a circle with the month stamped, just wanna make sure its a 05 DC head.

      Next you could do a leak down to confirm if its rings or valve seat..or even pull that valve cover and see if a followers or lash adjuster is broken keeping a vlave open
       
    16. dml996

      dml996 New Member

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      Its production date is 06/05. The stamp on the block is 05 inside a circle
       
    17. jd4242

      jd4242 Elite Explorer

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      Definitely should be a DC cast head then..id pull the valve cover and check things out..one or some of the valves should be slightly stuck open if the seat is bad but id make sure something else was keeping it open,like bad follower or lash adjuster. .then leak down if cant see anything
       
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    18. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      I got my heads rebuilt at Dover Cylinder Head Services, 1489 Cedar Lane Rd, Greenville, SC 29617, (864) 294-7741. It's a family business that has been around for many years. They have an excellent reputation.

      I agree with jd4242 to pull the valve cover and investigate. There may be only 1 intake valve opening in that cylinder resulting from a thrown cam follower.
      InVlvSpring2.jpg
       
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    19. dml996

      dml996 New Member

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      -Any links on what to look for on lash adjusters or followers. Going to take it apart this weekend. Thanks for all the advice so far!
       
    20. jccpd

      jccpd New Member

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      Opening up a new Aviator topic here, if I may.
      I have a 2004 Aviator that came factory with halogen headlights. I found another Aviator that had factory HIDs and grabbed them. I took off the old headlights and plugged in the newly acquired HID housings and they seem to work. However, I was looking at a fuse diagram and found that the factory HID vehicles have a few wiring differences than my non-HID Aviator. Specifically, there is a module on the passenger fender well that has three "fuses" in it on the HID vehicle, but my Aviator has only one "fuse" and where the other two fuses go there are no metal spades to attach fuses.
      Further, on the main power box on the driver's side fender well there are two spaded fuses on the HID Aviator, however my halogen Aviator has missing fuses and only one metal spade in these same spaces.
      So, I guess the question is, should I be looking for the wiring to upgrade my Aviator to the HID specific wiring harness?
      The lights seem to work, as the ballasts are enclosed within the headlight assembly, but I have not driven the vehicle at night and left them on for any length of time, because I do not want to cause unforeseen electrical problems. Any thoughts?
       
      Last edited: June 15, 2017
    21. Edsta

      Edsta New Member

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      Hello all. I have 2004 Avi. with 165K. Recently replaced the gas filter and tranny fluid/filter. Next on the list is the timing chain tensioners/ guides. Are there differences from the 2v, 3V and 4V that I should be aware of? Do they share the same guides/ tensioners/ sprockets as all other 4.6L engines? or does the Aviator engine have unique parts? Also, which brand of kits are better than others? Ive seen Melling, Cloyes, Ford OEM and a bunch of no name brands from $99 to $499 a kit. Any help would be appreciated.
       
    22. jccpd

      jccpd New Member

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      Ok, for those who have read my post about the factory HID headlights above and why there seems to be two different wiring harnesses (one for halogen and the other for HID) I am pretty sure that I have the solution. I found that the HID headlights (which includes the entire headlight assembly) would interchange with the halogen one physically, but there were minor differences. First, the plug for the HID is slightly different, but it can be forced.
      I went ahead and purchased not only the 2004 Aviator shop manual, but also bought the 2004 Aviator electrical manual. It was there that I found out the difference and I have a theory on why Lincoln decided to do it that way. First, the differences. The most important difference is that the fuse box, located under the hood, uses 10 amp fuses for the halogen headlights (I believe spaces 33 and 34). These are small micro fuses. The HID headlights use the larger 20 amp fuses, which are in empty spaces on the halogen fuse box. Also, the wiring to the HID relays on the passenger fender well from the fuse box is 16 gauge compared to the 18 gauge for the halogen lights. All wires are the same color, however. Also, from the HID relays to the actual HID plugs, again we find 16 gauge wires, instead of the 18 gauge halogen wires. Again, the wires are the same color, just thicker. So, my theory is that the HID wires must pull a larger amperage and trying to pull that amperage through 18 gauge wire would probably cause the wires to get hot and overheat and possibly start a fire.
      What I find strange is that I have also upgraded a 2004 Lincoln LS from halogen to factory HID, but that was strictly plug and play and I drove that car a lot at night and never had any issues. I do not know if the halogen wiring harness was just thicker on that car, allowing for the HIDs to just be plugged in, or if I was just lucky. Too bad the ex got that car in the divorce, or I would check to see the wire diameter in that car.
      Finally, I did manage to incorporate the HID wiring harness into my Aviator. The hardest part was working on getting the blades from the HID 16 gauge wires (lt. green with white stripe and a solid white wire) to go into the fuse box. Once I got that completed, put in the 20 amp fuses (pulled the 10 amp fuses from the halogen setup) and put in the battery, I found that the headlights are always on, somehow completely bypassing the light switch inside on the dash. My thoughts are that the blades that are found in the HID fuse position in the halogen fuse box are attached to a bus that is hot all the time. So, Saturday, I will go out to the junked Aviator and look at how the power is given to the HID fuses on that vehicle and see if there is a difference.
      Anyway, after working on this vehicle now for a few weeks, I am finding that it is pretty easy to work on. If you have worked on other Fords/Lincoln/Mercurys from the 90s through the mid-2000s, they are pretty straight forward. Invest in the factory mechanics manual and take your time and plenty of pictures of how things are before messing with them.
       
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    23. ibayter

      ibayter New Member

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      [​IMG][/URL][/IMG]
      That's awesome write up about the hid, I wanted to get the hid lights and put them on the fog lights on mine but for sure it doesn't fit.

      Right noe I am dealing with some rust on the tail gate, anybody had done it ? I never done body work but I want to learn since the shop wants to charge me 1k for it!! Nfw I will pay them that. Aby tips are welcome.

      %5BURL=http://s1152.photobucket.com/user/b...9BCC-9B84CFD26D63_zpseb8tijen.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
       
    24. Prerunning

      Prerunning New Member

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      I have HIDs in my fog lights and they fit just fine.
       
    25. Prerunning

      Prerunning New Member

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      Well guys ive been around here off an on for years for various small issues. Now its time for some big stuff!
      I had someone pull out of a parking lot and i T boned them at about 30 the insurance just totaled it out and sent the check so time for lots of repairs and maintenance

      It runs great but with 180k it needs a few things
      Ill be doing the timing chains, head gaskets, oil and water pump, possibly a valve job, transmission servo sleeves(flare), band adjustment, and some various upgrades from Sonnax.
      Ill be documenting it for some simple youtube how to videos, so stay tuned.
      I picked up a used hood and bumper for 300
      I still need a grill, both air bags, driver side fender and 2 hook shocks
      Im a mechanic so none of this will cost besides parts, machine work, and beer

      Does anyone know where the front impact sensor is? I cant find it in my Service manuals or the CD version? Does anyone know if it is reusable after the air bags have deployed? The manual words it like it is reusable, but no location.
       
    26. ibayter

      ibayter New Member

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      I know where an Aviator part car is and it is complete but I am in Canada for sure it is not good to you.

      I just upgrade my wheels this past weekend with some 20 conti, see if I can send a pic!

      http://i1152.photobucket.com/albums/p495/bikerman2000/IMG_1279_zpshivi6w1n.jpg
       

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