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Transfer Case

Craigerz

Elite Explorer
Joined
December 4, 2016
Messages
320
Reaction score
64
City, State
Fort Worth, TX
Year, Model & Trim Level
1997 5.0 4x4
Found a deal on a transfer case out of a 98 150. BW4606 electric shift but not sure if it has the VSS in the tcase or not.

It’s out in a field, so only hand tools, how long would it take to drop a tcase with hand tools, and any specific tools involved?
 



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That 98 truck would have the VSS in it, they stopped it in the bigger trucks in 1999, a year after the Explorers. Those things weigh over 100lbs, a jack is a must. I'd wait for someone to say how tough it is to remove from an F150 etc, the top bolt of the TC I gather is tight in the Explorer.
 






I knew it would be heavy. That’s what I’m trying to guess at is how many friend favors I want to burn up pulling this thing out.

These are getting harder to come by down here, unless you want to pay for an already rebuilt one.
 






I just went and pulled one the other day for my swap but it was a 4406 manual out of a 98 150 with speedo gear, all they had,

Gonna need to remove the torision bars to remove a cross memeber, in my case i had to at least, i got lucky bars were gone, i just had to remove the cross member.

Gonna have to undo the exhast or cut it out with sawsall, i chose to cut it, i went threw 3-4 diablo blades so make sure you got plunny to get it out,

Once everything was cut out and or removed,

( getting the cross member out was kind of a pain without taking out a bunch of stuff, fuel line etc, to come out so i used an axel to beat it past where i needed it to remove the transfer case)

I needed if i remember right a 1/2" raching wrnech to get to all the bolts. It wasnt a shorty maybe 6 inches, mid length craftsman. But it was vital to making the job easy.

Once i got the bolts out thing poped off, its pretty heavy but not completely undoable by yourself if your pretty strong. Presonally i had my buddy at the junkyard with me so he was helping.
 






That's a great post, helpful and just what he needed to know. I need another TOD version myself, to see about building as a spare. I haven't had time to go JY shopping this year.
 






I’ll take my saw but he’s parting out the truck so not Sure how much hacking he’ll want me doing. I have a cordless impact I’ll take. It’s not a knuckle buster but good once a nut is broken lose.

This is going to be a summer project, just gathering stuff now.
 






Yeah i understand,

You can unbolt the exhast i just didnt want to deal with rusted bolts.

You could perhaps maybe work around the cross member, but it will be difficult.

Maybe you could take the time to undo alot of the work on the sides of the frame but will be alot of work.

Also if you can get to the bolts you could you could slide it past the cross member but itd be tight up there.

The hardest part is getting everything out of the way to drop it, the TC is just 6 bolts and 2 eletrical conectors,

But that racheting wrench is key, on the passenger side top bolt near the exhast and frame, i literly only had 2-3 clicks on that wrench but it was enough and without it, dont even wanna think about it lol

Tools id bring:

Breaker Bar
Impact
Penatrating fluid
Good ramge of sockets, up to around 24mm
Wrenches (racheting)
Wire cutters
Big hammer
Flathead
Prybars
2 Jar Puller (Torison Bars)
Jacks

Im sure theres more im missing
 






A few things, a big piece of cardboard, gloves, paper towels, radio, and maybe a drain pan and a bandaid.
 






I have a spare 4406 out of a '97 f150 sitting in my shop right now, I had it in my truck but changed it after chasing a vibration that ended up being a bad wheel bearing and an unbalanced front driveshaft. If you want to save yourself the hassle of pulling that other case and have one soon, I would be willing to ship it sir. I think the '97 case with the VSS is the one you need to make the speedo in your '97 work.
 






I have a spare 4406 out of a '97 f150 sitting in my shop right now, I had it in my truck but changed it after chasing a vibration that ended up being a bad wheel bearing and an unbalanced front driveshaft. If you want to save yourself the hassle of pulling that other case and have one soon, I would be willing to ship it sir. I think the '97 case with the VSS is the one you need to make the speedo in your '97 work.

If he does not want it I might consider how much it would cost to come here to Colorado. :)
 






If he does not want it I might consider how much it would cost to come here to Colorado. :)
Is that a TOD case though, I kind of thought the F150's only had the manual case. The TOD version has a shift motor on the back of it.
 






The one online said electric but I never went and looked. Working on having this one shipped from CT and its a manual. Have both my drive shafts now, and found the linkage and shifter new for right over a hundred bucks. Getting close.
 






Sooo... I might have accidentally ordered the PowerTrax 2311-LR off of Ebay. Oops
 






Sooo... I might have accidentally ordered the PowerTrax 2311-LR off of Ebay. Oops
Does that work in our front IRS D35 diffs? I see it's a type of locker and best for off road.
 












It sounds great and I hope you love it. I like that it drops in without setting up gears etc. I need to find my retired mechanic friend, or someone to do my front diff.
 






I was going to go with the Torsen LS but that was 500 and got this for 200. About 75% of the driving the truck does is off road so I’m hoping the little bit it’s on the street I can just baby it. I was just browsing and since I was going to have the front ds off I figured why not. Someone really just needs to take my mouse away is what needs to happen...
 






Funny, you and most people on my mail route. Nobody seems to run out of money, and everyone loves Amazon.
 






I think I gotta look into that for mine. Can't wait to read a review from ya.
 



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4406 is in the mail!!

Yeah I'm excited to get it all together. I think I've spent the last 4 months reading every single write up on here on who has done this.

First thing I've learned about the locker though is it won't work with the 5.0 AWD or Auto 4WD . Either convert it to 4WD or use the 4.0 ect.. Since the AWD is always on the locker is always engaged and is no bueno, same principle goes with the Auto 4WD. Which is why I decided to do it with the swap, already going to be under there.

Since my time is limited, I can only do one at the moment, so I decided it would be better to have a locker up front with the D4 rear end, than to go from LS to locked rear with a still open front.

Working on a front coil style shock for the front thats either going to be awesome or a flop. Either way I'm sure I'll take flak for it but well see :thumbsup:

6 more weeks of winter down here and it will be back to building!!
 






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