1karkrazyguy
Member
- Joined
- October 19, 2006
- Messages
- 37
- Reaction score
- 0
- City, State
- Los Angeles, California
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 96 XLT 2WD AUTOMATIC
Hi to all the Explorer Forum members old and new,
Here is a little of what I have learned in the last 3 weeks about my FORD 4r55E automatic transmission and this also applies to any automatic transmission.
The transmission is pretty rugged, easy to diagnosis with the correct FORD FACTORY NGS or ROTUNDA SCANNER TOOL and easy to rebuild if you're a really good shade tree mechanic with good tools.
Be patient, be methodical, be smart and ask questions and make people explain things to you when you don't understand something and make mechanics put everything in WRITING concerning diagnosis and potential repairs and repair costs!
If you are going to ask the Forum members for help diagnosing a problem and to point you in the right direction, please remember to:
1. give the year of manufacture of the truck,
2. if it is 2 or 4 wheel drive,
3. the type of engine V8 or V6,
4. the mileage on the truck,
5. if the transmission has had any work/servicing or rebuilding done to it recently or in the past,
6. the specific problem symptoms,
7. the specific OBD I or OBD II DTC codes it is putting out and to try and get a FORD NGS or FORD ROTUNDA scan tool to get these codes,
8. if you have checked the fluid level in the trannie
9. and it's color
10. and when was the last time you changed the ATF and the filter
11. and what type of fluid you used
12. and if you have any ATF fluid leaks under your truck when parked.
13. any recent electrical problems, wiring problems
14. any engine running roughly problems and repairs made recently. Many sensors on these trucks that PCM uses to control the trannie.
15. state any modifications made to the engine, drivetrain, oversized rims/tires, etc.
16. state under what conditions when the transmission started to act up/failed to shift, while off-roading, towing, extreme weather conditions, etc.
Pretty simple.
It's just a simple automatic transmission.
First, check the fluid levels on your transmission ATF when hot and your engine oil every once in awhile, WHEN THE TRUCK IS ON LEVEL GROUND.
Look, if your trannie is having problems, it probably won't be cheap to fix upfront, but look how long these transmissions run for and under the conditions that we run them and the weather. It's amazing what a fluid and filter change can do, once a year if you tow, and once every 2 years if it is just normal driving, to extend the life of these trannies and also make them shift better.
Use Mobil1 ATF fluid. It runs alot cooler and will add to the service life of your trannie. It is amazing stuff. My ex-father-in-law, was a scientist/top level manager, who worked for one of the largest defense contractors in the USA, building and designing electric/gasoline hybrid motor control systems for Chrysler which they were testing a few years ago. He asked if the Mobil1 products were any good and the Chrysler engineers told him that they tested Mobil1 by taking 10 engines that had been run for 50,000 miles on regular oil, with regular oil changes. They tore these engines down, used a micrometer and measured everything, put them back together and put in Mobil1 oil in the engine and Mobil1 ATF in the transmissions and ran them until they hit 1,000,000 miles. They took all the engines and transmissions apart, measured them again and found almost no measurable wear on all the hard parts. After a million miles!
They did the same thing with 2 other major synthetic oils and there was quiet a bit of wear on the hard parts after the tests. Mobil1 products are a step above all other synthetics. Mobil1 make / are the best lubricants and they work.
If you tow anything, read your owners manual that the truck came with. TURN OFF YOUR OVERDRIVE SWITCH WHEN YOU TOW. It makes a BIG difference.... It's not about the gas mileage when you are towing anything.
If your Check Engine Light comes on and your OverDrive (O/D) light begins to flash on the dash at the same time, get the truck ASAP to a good transmission shop to be diagnosed right away if possible, to limit the amount of damage to the trannie. Don't drive the truck until it is code scanned. That flashing OD light is telling you that you have a component failure/problem with your transmission. It could be something as simple as a loose valve body that needs to be re-torqued or a blown out valve body plate gasket that can be easily replaced... Or it could be a simple Vehicle Speed Sensor, Throttle Position Sensor or some other engine sensor that has failed and is easy to replace and fix.... Much cheaper than ruining and having to fix the internal mechanicals of a computer controlled transmission that you have blown out by continuing to drive it when the OD light is flashing.... Easy and cheap to fix if you catch it early!
Slowly, methodically, take your repair diagnosis step by step, based on the steps as clearly laid out in the ATSG repair manual and the OBD II codes that the FORD NGS or FORD ROTUNDA scan tool gives you.
Get informed first. Especially read the posts on this Forum board from Glacier991. He is very knowledgable. Read his other transmission problem posts here in detail.
If you are technically minded and a good shade tree mechanic, get the ATSG service manual for this transmission, READ IT and follow what it says for diagnosis, testing and what the DTC codes mean, (http://www.atsgmiami.com/).
Get access to a FORD NGS or ROTUNDA scan tool and get the OBD I or OBD II DTC codes read out from your PCM for the transmission problems you are having.
Check the ATF fluid in your trannie when it is hot and on flat ground AND THE ENGINE IS RUNNING. Make sure it is at the proper level when hot. Make sure you use the CORRECT ATF fluid in your trannie when adding or replacing ATF fluid.
State the mileage on your truck and when the fluid/filter was last changed, check whether there are any leaks from the trannie or in the radiator coolant.
A well informed, knowledgable consumer will not be screwed by his local FORD dealer, transmission shop....
The OBD II DTC codes when read out by only a FORD NGS or ROTUNDA scan tool, are very specific and tell exactly what is wrong with these trannies, IMHO. The FORD NGS scan tools can activate all the solenoids individually on the trannie while it is in the truck sitting up on the rack with the engine off. The aftermarket code scanners, even from SNAP-ON tools are INACCURATE and do not give all the codes and can not activate the transmission solenoids or test the vehicle Powertrain Control Module (PCM)!
I spent 3 weeks chasing a non-existent electrical problem, based on an aftermarket OBD II code scan tool giving me only 1 of the DTC codes instead of both DTC codes.
You must have a transmission person that WORKS ON these FORD product 4R55E AND 5R55E FORD TRANNIES, who can interpet these codes correctly, as there are OTHER SENSORS ON THE FORD TRUCKS ENGINES, THAT AFFECT HOW YOUR TRANSMISSION RUNS AND SHIFTS DUE TO TEMP, ENGINE / TRANSMISSION LOAD, DRIVER'S DRIVING HABITS, AIR TEMP, ETC. and your trannie mechanic must be a knowledgable FORD transmission person in the area of the mechanical problems and the valve body problems that can occur with these transmissions.
Just remember that eventually all automatic transmissions need to be rebuilt when hard parts/seals/friction materials wear out, but you can extend that time between rebuilds by using a little common sense and doing a little maintenance, using synthetic ATF and NOT TOWING in 4th gear OD!!!
Do an annual replacement of the ATF fluid and pan filter once a year, if not sooner based on vehicle usage. Clean ATF fluid and a clean filter make a difference.
Remember, when you do need to rebuild, replace the hard parts as well as the soft parts like the seals and the servos. The difference is night and day with how the transmission will work.... Here is what was done with my 4R55E at 115,030 miles when it was rebuilt after a broken intermediate band was discovered...
November 9, 2006........." FINALLY FIXED! My 4r55e transmission now shifts so smoothly it is ridiculous with it's upshifts and downshifts and lack of noise. Anyone rebuilding has to replace hard parts on these trannie's. The FORD oem hard parts just don't wear well at all from what I saw replaced. And if you don't replace the hard parts that need it IMHO, you're just asking for trouble a short period down the road. Especially if you tow or go off roading....
Just got my 96 Explorer 4.0 XLT 2wd back with the rebuilt transmission. I had Gaby at Jul's Transmission in Hollywood, Ca. go through the whole thing and replace everything internally of the hard parts that needed it.
Originally we were getting OBDII DTC of P0756, which is SSB (performance solenoid shift solenoid 2 not working, hydraulic circuit not working) and then we got DTC code P0732, (incorrect gear ratio) which indicates a mechanical problem in the transmission. The intermediate band had broken at the end of the band at one of the case mounting points.
Both of these OBDII DTC codes or in that number range seems to be very very very common here on the board; many people here have the same problem that I came to the Forum looking for an answer; having to let off the gas to shift from 1st to 2nd; OD light flashing; OBDII DTC code P0756, SSB failure....
Now with the rebuilt/repaired transmission, none of these codes are there and the transmission works perfectly and all the problems are gone.
Besides installing the standard rebuild kit with all new bands, seals, servos, and high heat BorgWarner clutchs, I had installed a remanufactured torque convertor, new pump, 2 new drums, new front and rear planetary gear sets, and replaced any and all hard parts that were worn or questionable, new FORD oem turbine sensor, plus the valve body we had already rebuilt with all new solenoids, new upgraded FORD seperator plate listed here on the Forum, etc.
Smooth shifting now as my buddy's Lexus. Amazing. Like a hot knife through 'butter'....
The amount of wear, scoring and then the slop in the FORD oem hard parts, especially in both sets of planetary gears was unreal and on the pump and the drums.
Hope this helped and Good luck to all!
Here is a little of what I have learned in the last 3 weeks about my FORD 4r55E automatic transmission and this also applies to any automatic transmission.
The transmission is pretty rugged, easy to diagnosis with the correct FORD FACTORY NGS or ROTUNDA SCANNER TOOL and easy to rebuild if you're a really good shade tree mechanic with good tools.
Be patient, be methodical, be smart and ask questions and make people explain things to you when you don't understand something and make mechanics put everything in WRITING concerning diagnosis and potential repairs and repair costs!
If you are going to ask the Forum members for help diagnosing a problem and to point you in the right direction, please remember to:
1. give the year of manufacture of the truck,
2. if it is 2 or 4 wheel drive,
3. the type of engine V8 or V6,
4. the mileage on the truck,
5. if the transmission has had any work/servicing or rebuilding done to it recently or in the past,
6. the specific problem symptoms,
7. the specific OBD I or OBD II DTC codes it is putting out and to try and get a FORD NGS or FORD ROTUNDA scan tool to get these codes,
8. if you have checked the fluid level in the trannie
9. and it's color
10. and when was the last time you changed the ATF and the filter
11. and what type of fluid you used
12. and if you have any ATF fluid leaks under your truck when parked.
13. any recent electrical problems, wiring problems
14. any engine running roughly problems and repairs made recently. Many sensors on these trucks that PCM uses to control the trannie.
15. state any modifications made to the engine, drivetrain, oversized rims/tires, etc.
16. state under what conditions when the transmission started to act up/failed to shift, while off-roading, towing, extreme weather conditions, etc.
Pretty simple.
It's just a simple automatic transmission.
First, check the fluid levels on your transmission ATF when hot and your engine oil every once in awhile, WHEN THE TRUCK IS ON LEVEL GROUND.
Look, if your trannie is having problems, it probably won't be cheap to fix upfront, but look how long these transmissions run for and under the conditions that we run them and the weather. It's amazing what a fluid and filter change can do, once a year if you tow, and once every 2 years if it is just normal driving, to extend the life of these trannies and also make them shift better.
Use Mobil1 ATF fluid. It runs alot cooler and will add to the service life of your trannie. It is amazing stuff. My ex-father-in-law, was a scientist/top level manager, who worked for one of the largest defense contractors in the USA, building and designing electric/gasoline hybrid motor control systems for Chrysler which they were testing a few years ago. He asked if the Mobil1 products were any good and the Chrysler engineers told him that they tested Mobil1 by taking 10 engines that had been run for 50,000 miles on regular oil, with regular oil changes. They tore these engines down, used a micrometer and measured everything, put them back together and put in Mobil1 oil in the engine and Mobil1 ATF in the transmissions and ran them until they hit 1,000,000 miles. They took all the engines and transmissions apart, measured them again and found almost no measurable wear on all the hard parts. After a million miles!
They did the same thing with 2 other major synthetic oils and there was quiet a bit of wear on the hard parts after the tests. Mobil1 products are a step above all other synthetics. Mobil1 make / are the best lubricants and they work.
If you tow anything, read your owners manual that the truck came with. TURN OFF YOUR OVERDRIVE SWITCH WHEN YOU TOW. It makes a BIG difference.... It's not about the gas mileage when you are towing anything.
If your Check Engine Light comes on and your OverDrive (O/D) light begins to flash on the dash at the same time, get the truck ASAP to a good transmission shop to be diagnosed right away if possible, to limit the amount of damage to the trannie. Don't drive the truck until it is code scanned. That flashing OD light is telling you that you have a component failure/problem with your transmission. It could be something as simple as a loose valve body that needs to be re-torqued or a blown out valve body plate gasket that can be easily replaced... Or it could be a simple Vehicle Speed Sensor, Throttle Position Sensor or some other engine sensor that has failed and is easy to replace and fix.... Much cheaper than ruining and having to fix the internal mechanicals of a computer controlled transmission that you have blown out by continuing to drive it when the OD light is flashing.... Easy and cheap to fix if you catch it early!
Slowly, methodically, take your repair diagnosis step by step, based on the steps as clearly laid out in the ATSG repair manual and the OBD II codes that the FORD NGS or FORD ROTUNDA scan tool gives you.
Get informed first. Especially read the posts on this Forum board from Glacier991. He is very knowledgable. Read his other transmission problem posts here in detail.
If you are technically minded and a good shade tree mechanic, get the ATSG service manual for this transmission, READ IT and follow what it says for diagnosis, testing and what the DTC codes mean, (http://www.atsgmiami.com/).
Get access to a FORD NGS or ROTUNDA scan tool and get the OBD I or OBD II DTC codes read out from your PCM for the transmission problems you are having.
Check the ATF fluid in your trannie when it is hot and on flat ground AND THE ENGINE IS RUNNING. Make sure it is at the proper level when hot. Make sure you use the CORRECT ATF fluid in your trannie when adding or replacing ATF fluid.
State the mileage on your truck and when the fluid/filter was last changed, check whether there are any leaks from the trannie or in the radiator coolant.
A well informed, knowledgable consumer will not be screwed by his local FORD dealer, transmission shop....
The OBD II DTC codes when read out by only a FORD NGS or ROTUNDA scan tool, are very specific and tell exactly what is wrong with these trannies, IMHO. The FORD NGS scan tools can activate all the solenoids individually on the trannie while it is in the truck sitting up on the rack with the engine off. The aftermarket code scanners, even from SNAP-ON tools are INACCURATE and do not give all the codes and can not activate the transmission solenoids or test the vehicle Powertrain Control Module (PCM)!
I spent 3 weeks chasing a non-existent electrical problem, based on an aftermarket OBD II code scan tool giving me only 1 of the DTC codes instead of both DTC codes.
You must have a transmission person that WORKS ON these FORD product 4R55E AND 5R55E FORD TRANNIES, who can interpet these codes correctly, as there are OTHER SENSORS ON THE FORD TRUCKS ENGINES, THAT AFFECT HOW YOUR TRANSMISSION RUNS AND SHIFTS DUE TO TEMP, ENGINE / TRANSMISSION LOAD, DRIVER'S DRIVING HABITS, AIR TEMP, ETC. and your trannie mechanic must be a knowledgable FORD transmission person in the area of the mechanical problems and the valve body problems that can occur with these transmissions.
Just remember that eventually all automatic transmissions need to be rebuilt when hard parts/seals/friction materials wear out, but you can extend that time between rebuilds by using a little common sense and doing a little maintenance, using synthetic ATF and NOT TOWING in 4th gear OD!!!
Do an annual replacement of the ATF fluid and pan filter once a year, if not sooner based on vehicle usage. Clean ATF fluid and a clean filter make a difference.
Remember, when you do need to rebuild, replace the hard parts as well as the soft parts like the seals and the servos. The difference is night and day with how the transmission will work.... Here is what was done with my 4R55E at 115,030 miles when it was rebuilt after a broken intermediate band was discovered...
November 9, 2006........." FINALLY FIXED! My 4r55e transmission now shifts so smoothly it is ridiculous with it's upshifts and downshifts and lack of noise. Anyone rebuilding has to replace hard parts on these trannie's. The FORD oem hard parts just don't wear well at all from what I saw replaced. And if you don't replace the hard parts that need it IMHO, you're just asking for trouble a short period down the road. Especially if you tow or go off roading....
Just got my 96 Explorer 4.0 XLT 2wd back with the rebuilt transmission. I had Gaby at Jul's Transmission in Hollywood, Ca. go through the whole thing and replace everything internally of the hard parts that needed it.
Originally we were getting OBDII DTC of P0756, which is SSB (performance solenoid shift solenoid 2 not working, hydraulic circuit not working) and then we got DTC code P0732, (incorrect gear ratio) which indicates a mechanical problem in the transmission. The intermediate band had broken at the end of the band at one of the case mounting points.
Both of these OBDII DTC codes or in that number range seems to be very very very common here on the board; many people here have the same problem that I came to the Forum looking for an answer; having to let off the gas to shift from 1st to 2nd; OD light flashing; OBDII DTC code P0756, SSB failure....
Now with the rebuilt/repaired transmission, none of these codes are there and the transmission works perfectly and all the problems are gone.
Besides installing the standard rebuild kit with all new bands, seals, servos, and high heat BorgWarner clutchs, I had installed a remanufactured torque convertor, new pump, 2 new drums, new front and rear planetary gear sets, and replaced any and all hard parts that were worn or questionable, new FORD oem turbine sensor, plus the valve body we had already rebuilt with all new solenoids, new upgraded FORD seperator plate listed here on the Forum, etc.
Smooth shifting now as my buddy's Lexus. Amazing. Like a hot knife through 'butter'....
The amount of wear, scoring and then the slop in the FORD oem hard parts, especially in both sets of planetary gears was unreal and on the pump and the drums.
Hope this helped and Good luck to all!