Turbo on 2000 Limited 5.0

Well guys, I don't even have it yet and I'm looking at going turbo.

I think I'll be going STS style with the turbo underneath the the body. I'm hoping I can find room somewhere closer to the front to mount it. If not, I may just go classic style and cut the muffler out and install the turbo in its place.

Tim was kind enough to point me at a turbo for sale locally. I'm checking it out now. I sent the specs to James Henson to see what his thoughts are.

Here's the specs:
t4 F1-68 turbine .68 a/r housing 3" exhaust outlet with a 72mm compressor blade 4inch inlet, 2.5 inch outlet, journal bearing. Also, see compressor map attached. I have a vague understanding, and that concerns me.

Now, the next issue is oil routing.
Oil in to the turbo would be handled from a T off the oil pressure sending unit on the block. Return oil would need a scavenge pump to the top of the oil pan, or in the timing chain cover. The scavenge pump adds quite a bit of cost to the setup. I think saving a few bucks in this area would spell disaster. So, this seems to be the best pump out there:
http://turbowerx.com/Scavenge_Pumps/Exa-Pump/Exa-Pump.html
Stainless steel oil lines will have to be used. As I read about under cab mounted turbo's oil issues seem to be a huge issue. This is going to require careful thought and routing.

My real issue is routing the air filter and compressed air up to the engine bay.
The frame rails will be the the way. I saw one guy notched out his frame for the plumbing and re-enforced the frame by welding metal around the plumbing line (3 inch or 4 inch hole). I'm concerned about running the two pipes and think this will be the biggest challenge. I really don't want that air filter under the truck.
See what this guy did on his ranger?


As for Maf? Pro-M all the way, in a blow thru design.

Fuel pump, injectors, sct go without saying. I'll be having James put together a care package for me along with the Pro-M.
Aeromotive Stealth 340 pump
Bosch uscar (EV6) 60lb injectors part # 108191

I'll recycle my boost gauge and wide band o2 from my supercharged 4.0 ohv.

I'll be using stainless steel for everything under the truck as rust always seems to be an issue.

Also. intercooling. I learned from my last project that cool intake air is incredibly important. People say on under cabin turbo's you don't really need it as the compressed air cools on the way up. Not good enough for me. Im going to go air/water so I have flexibility as to where I mount the intercooler. This could change, but intercooling of some form is a must.

My eye's are watering at what this is going to cost.

I see 02Limited turbo'd his, but he must have had quite a few issues and fell off the forum.

Not much info on guys completing something like this to be found. All input appreciated.

This will be a long process.

 

[jd4242]

Aww very interesting. .well hopefully what you got figured out works and maybe help others too..;-)

 

[vroomzoomboom]

i would weld it, you know i would weld it....but the welder i have isnt set up for alum.

 

[Dono]

I'm sure if I do most of the prep work, it won't cost much to get it done. I know aluminum is a different animal.

Ok, slight detour here:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=427497
347 install.

While I was at it, it gave me some time to look at other things. The O-ring on the Blow off valve mount is compressed and the blow off valve is loose on the mount. Can you say 'boost leak'? I have some ultra blue or black laying around that will take care of that issue. Other than that, the fabrication work is holding up really well.

 

[Dono]

Ok, back on the turbo...
I'm struggling a bit with motivation, but I really need to get the water part of my air/water inter-cooler working.

4pointslow helped me out.
He's seeing 138 degrees at approx 15lbs boost.
I'm seeing 165 degrees at 6lbs boost.
Who ever perpetuated the myth that rear mount turbo's cool the charge on the way up to the throttle body anyway?

So, off came the front bumper tonight, and a slight relocation of trans cooler lines. I think I can fit the water radiator behind the bumper nicely.

More good news is that I already have the hobbs switch in use for my pcv setup. I can use that for my relay to power the pump when under boost. I do have a delay off timer somewhere also, its just been so long it will be a challenge finding it.

Anyone know if those bosch inter-cooler pumps are self priming? I think It's going to be tough to keep that pump low and protected from the elements. With the rad mounted low, the actual inter-cooler mounted really low(frame rail) I may have an issue. I do really want to keep all feed/return water lines as short as possible for efficiency also.

EDIT: Bosh pump is a centrifugal pump. Not self priming. It will have to be mounted low.

 

[2000StreetRod]

pump priming

The top of the 90 degree elbow on the inlet of my pump is about 1.5 inches above the reservoir outlet and I've never had a problem with the pump priming.

My stock tune retards the spark advance 5.76 degrees when the IAT is 165 degrees when the load is .6 or greater and the rpm above 3,000. If you can get the IAT to drop below 150 degrees you could gain 2.5 degrees of advance.

 

[jd4242]

Mine is not much above the bottom of my outlet of front cooler (maybe 3" higher)but it definitely wont prime itself for first run..after its been primed and lines are full it stays primed..havent had it ""unprime"" yet but, does leave a un-settling feeling knowing it could..but i have that dual gauge so can see if its working or not clear as day

 

[4pointslow]

intercooler

get that intercooler radiator mounted behind that bumper! plumb those lines.
Mount the intercooler pump as low as possible.
And when you get tired of trying to get that pump to work, replace it with a MEZ-WP136S

The Bosch pumps are not direct drive, they use magnetism to spin the pump blades. Because of that the pump can be stalled from high back pressure air pockets etc.
The Meziere pump is direct drive.

Just my 2 cents from experimenting with both.

 

[Dono]

Thanks for all the great info guys.
Just to see, I upped the boost to 8lbs. Big difference in pull, but straight in to detonation and off the gas I went.
Its a long weekend coming up, so I'm really hoping to have the intercooler project completed by Monday. It sounds like it will take some work to get that pump primed. I have the pump, so that's what I'll be using till it breaks, or I break with frustration.

James is still working with my idle/startup. He sent me a file today that seemed to work beautifully. James did say he went very radical on the idle parameters. Then...P0340 cam position sensor error? Now what? Ugh. It will take a bit of troubleshooting to determine if its the cam sensor, or in one of the adjustments made in the tuning.
A quick and easy one will be to revert back one tuning file.

 

[Dono]

intercooler rad

teaser pic. It fits pretty good. I might have to do a bit of trimming in the bumper.

 

[jd4242]

Sure you have posted it but where did you get that from

 

[Dono]

Nope, didn't post this.
It came from China. Ebay.
I just couldn't find anything else that would fit reasonably painlessly.
This one fit between the frame rails, and didn't require a crap load of modifying. It was pretty much exactly what I was looking for.

 

[jd4242]

Nope, didn't post this.
It came from China. Ebay.
I just couldn't find anything else that would fit reasonably painlessly.
This one fit between the frame rails, and didn't require a crap load of modifying. It was pretty much exactly what I was looking for.

Looks good,like it meant to be there.nice and big too

 

[2000StreetRod]

Nice fit!

You might even have room for electric fans in front of it. Is it advertised as an oil cooler or an intercooler? If my enlarged oil cooler with electric fan (intercooler) doesn't drop my IATs below 150 degrees I may turn my engine oil cooler into an intercooler. I can't remember a time when the engine oil temperature got up to 215 degrees so the thermostat opened to the cooler.

 

[Dono]

This is advertised as an inter-cooler radiator. Its nice and thick.

Even with the radiator e-fan on I could feel the air being sucked thru the intercooler rad.
I'm hoping to avoid the extra complexity of an added fan, but who knows?

It will be interesting to see how this setup performs.

 

[4pointslow]

Intercooler

That looks quite good there! You are on your way to cooler IAT's.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

that does look good! i will have to drop in one day and see what your up to. are you driving it right now, or the black truck?

 

[Dono]

Ive been driving it with no front bumper. Kinda ghetto, but whatever.
I'll have the bumper back on this weekend.
With that pump not being self priming, I'll be mounting it low and seeing how long the torture test lasts in the elements before it seizes.

The black one needs new plugs something fierce. I have to two step brake and gas to keep from stalling now. I should probably get them changed this weekend.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

one problem i just saw with this. your going to have a hell of a time with the inside bumper bolts now

 

[Dono]

The pics don't really show it, but I think there's still room for a socket.
It's not going to be nearly as easy to work with as factory though.

 

[JCat]

I really hate to read about all this suffering.

Have you ever experienced the intoxicating affect of driving a big block?

Anything with a 351 or larger ?

I know it won't be in an Explorer.

Please consider not wasting any more money on what might be a lost cause.

Sorry, I have much respect for all that you've accomplished.