Discussion in 'Need for Speed!' started by Dono, June 30, 2013.
I hope it just holds together.
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Any updates? How's it going?
And, here it is again!
Tim was a champ yesterday. Id have called it a day before finishing, but Tim was determined to hear the motor fire before leaving. And fire it did.
The heads created all kinds of fitment issues. Exhaust wouldn't quite fit, there is a bolt in each head that is 5/8" for the accessory brackets instead of the 3/8" factory bolts...After finding the bolts, then I had to find a 5/8" metal drill bit. Not common.
Spark plug placement is very different. There is room for plug wires and a spark plug wrench, but not without some finesse.
This modifying stuff takes so much time (even traveling back and fourth for bolts, drill bits, etc.) I'd never have completed it this weekend.
Motor started great. Then during warm up the coolant overflow tank filled right up and was bubbling. Noooooo...
Tim kept me calm. Just an air lock.
Its our CFL Grey Cup weekend here in Winnipeg. And yes, we are hosting here. Lots of festivities going on everywhere. Tim declined to come out last night with us, and its too bad. One of the bands turned out to be one that I really liked. 54-40, although I doubt any of you know of them. Anyway it was a pleasant diversion last night.
Today, I have some small stuff left like the inner fenders. I can hardly wait to get driving the old girl again. I do really enjoy it.
i didnt panic because just when he said that, i saw the temp gauge spike. figured it was a air lock
what don also failed to mention was who they went to see. or the band i heard his wife say.....loverbody... paaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaass. i didnt think i could handle 60 year old groupies throwing their panties onto the stage lol
Went for the madden voyage.
The bad.... exhaust leak to deal with.
The good.... runs really strong. There seems to be way more bottom end. I flirted with 1 lb boost and it felt pretty good. Coolant level is where it should be.
Yea! It is back together!
That engine compartment looks great, not a lot of room but sure looks good!
Keep us posted on the boost, and power you feel.
Can you notice the weight reduction? Its something like 80 pounds off the nose with aluminum heads,
Great job guys! ! Don you got one bad as* setup! !Cant wait to hear back about how boost feels...that thing is gonna be scary fast!!
same side? need "the wrench"? also, i bet the new heads flow better then the p heads you had, which also means the turbo will also spool up faster
I think I will need your special wrench.
I'm concerned that I have a bigger issue that the header is still not sitting flush against the head. There was still a slight rock to it without a gasket. I was pretty sure the remflex gasket would take up the space, but now I'm thinking it didn't crush enough.
So, there's a good chance the header will come off on the passenger side and one, or a combination of things will have to happen.
some more 'clearancing' on the header, some grinding on the head where there is still an issue, or doubling up on the remflex gasket.
Shitty. I'll drive a bit more, and should be able to see where the leak is. Maybe a hose with one end at my ear and I'll hear exactly where the issue is.
I know there's a huge weight savings. I really need more time driving before I can answer on the weight savings. The front end does seem to sit higher now. There is no question there is a performance gain. My real questions will be....can I keep these heads seated to the block, and am I going to have detonation issues at suck low timing and boost levels again?
Fingers crossed, it sounds promising.
yup, checked coolant level.....So far, so good.
I'm finding 3 of 4 tires spinning at 50mph is a bit unsettling. I really won't be able to do much tuning and setting boost levels until spring.
I'm going to live with the exhaust leak for a while.
Fix it. Do not procrastinate.
Some words of encouragement:
Exhaust leak means air is getting sucked in as well as exhaust leaking out.
That air getting sucked in goes past the O2 sensor and it sends lean signal to PCM. PCM adds fuel to a bank of cylinders that do not need it and they run rich.
Rich mixtures in the cylinder can wash the oil off the cylinder walls, and pollute the crankcase with fuel which can thin out the oil over time. Rich mixtures also lead to more unburnt fuel in the exhaust and the catalytic converter will burn the extra fuel which can lead to elevated temperatures in the cats.
In the 80's there were a lot of engines that would end up having blow by and other engine problems at around 60,000-70,000 miles. I am convinced that it was caused from the carburetors of the time that never quite held the correct air to fuel mixtures.
I hold fuel injection accountable for the longer lasting engines that we have today, the PCM's control of the systems usually keep things closer to where they should be even when things go wrong. A correctly running engine will have less wear and tear on the cylinder walls, rings, pistons, and bearing in the lower end.
Edit: forgot to add this
A friend of mine had one loose bolt on his 5.0 mountaineer, it was one that bolted the exhaust pipe to the manifold on one side. Fuel trims were 15% extra fuel being added. I tightened the bolt and it went back to 0 +or- 5% (where they should be).
Wow, thats amazing.
I didn't think there would be that much air being sucked in.
This thing is wearing me out. I have an oil leak also. I'm sure its lower intake. The lower intake gasket slid down when torquing the lower intake down. The super tack wasn't tacky (obviously it was too cold for it). I could see where the gasket rolled a but at the china wall. I should have dabbed some more sealant at those corners right away (Hind sight being 20/20). I might try cleaning the corners of the china wall to head/lower intake as best I can and then rub some sealant in the corners with my finger. Worst case, I can do the lower intake when it warms up with the motor in the truck.
Headlight wen't out.....HID. Was a bitch. No room, and my hands are all cut up now. Replaced bulb and ballast just to be sure. At least that issue is done.
My overhead console is dead. No lights. Not even sure when that happened. It doesn't appear to be a fuse...<edit> It was that 510 surface mount resistor-Fixed
Anyway, just venting. With any luck none of this will require an engine pull.
this should be it don, pretty easy fix
if not, i should have a spare someplace
Tim, you have a spare everything, I swear!
Don, how much boost are you running now? 4point is right about the exhaust leak, at the very least you won't be able to do any more tuning until it is fixed.
Tim, where do you squirrel all this stuff away?
I'll maybe pull it apart tonight and see what I can figure out. Fuse 10 is good, and all accessories on this fuse work. I'm thinking this means a solder joint issue as per the thread posted. At least I wasn't driving a one eye'd monster on the way to work this morning. One step at a time I guess.
it almost seems like it, doesnt it lol
if you see me walking funny, you know i ran out of room in the shed......
So, the exhaust shop calls me today. The call wen't like this:
Don, there is no exhaust leak. We even smoke tested the exhaust. The smoke tester is awesome, and finds the smallest of leaks. There is no leak.
Then the conversation continues. We found an arcing plug wire, and think thats the ticking you are hearing.
I have all kinds of thoughts going thru my head. First thought was simply 'WTF'?
Second thought....Great, F'n headers. I guess its time to order a set of high temp wires from the 'ultimate spark plug thread', and make some custom wires.
I finally speak. 'Why is my truck so F'n noisy?' 'There is no way it should be this loud.' 'Thanks for finding the bad wire' 'Something is going on here'.
We talk about the cam, etc. I finally get a reluctant agreement my truck is F'n loud. They think it might be the custom cam. They are grasping here. Keep in mind, I like these guys and they are super honest.
Another call comes about an hour later. Good news and bad news I'm told.
...........silence...........I think I heard a mouse run across their shop floor.
Jamie says there is a big F'n hole in each head that goes to the exhaust in the head. He was able to follow the noise while on the lift. He says the threaded holes are huge, and they are tapped with a thread. He told me he was guessing at the size, as thinks maybe 1/2".
I responded with 'The hole size is 5/8" course thread.'
It was his turn..............Dead silence................ hahaha I was amused.
Tim will know this also as we had to drill out my accessory brackets and use massive bolts to get my front brackets on.
So, It turns out that these are emissions heads and there are factory caps for the 5/8" holes. Now, if it were me, I would have stopped by Home depot and bought some short 5/8" bolts and shortened them even more (as required) to screw in the holes. Nope. They wouldn't do that. They have some factory plugs coming.
So, I still think I am super relieved. I don't have to fight with that header. Happy dance. I'll have my truck back by Friday for sure. I'm a bit concerned about what those 5/8" plugs will cost.
Now, I need to find some plug wires that will work. The 90 degree boots on the accel 9001's are probably not great. 45 degree boots would be the best.
edit: The 45 degree boots are the accel 9002c's. I already have the edis boots. Sigh. I'm not done spending money. $150.00cdn
edit: again: $183.00cdn. really? guess where I am? Yup, on the couch in fetal position.
Lol I remember those holes on the factory heads for the smog tubes, I think I still have a box of brass plugs , I have heard what it sounds like when those holes are open lol
Yup, threw the exhaust shop for a bit of a loop. Truck was loud, as you know.
I'm sure I could have bought these heads in non-emissions style had I known.
Whatever, I'm getting there.
On a plus note, I found the accel wires for $150.00cdn shipped.
Funny thing with the offensive (Or is that offending) wire, I know it never touched a header tube. I think it just cooked its self in between the tubes. As crazy as it sounds, I'm happy they found it. Who knows how long it would have taken me to know I had a problem.
well now that will explain a lot. you thought it was the drives side because you could hear it sitting in it while it was running, and i thought it was the passengers side because i heard it when i stuck my head in the wheel well when it was running. let them deal with it. i can see getting to those holes being a bitch to....but i hope the bill will not reflect that.
did they also figure out why the pipes fit so crappy as well, and fix it?
also did you order the wires already? as i have said in the past i saw the wire wires taylor make for our trucks. very nice. even have the socks on the spark plug end. and if you did buy a set already, are they a custom fit meaning you make your own length wires. if so, let me know. joe has a wire crimper tool thingy and i can ask him if i can borrow it.
They will either piece in a but of pipe to make them fit better or just heat a bend up and let it 'wrinkle'. They think the wrinkle route will work the best. Interesting, I had never heard of that.
Then, they will fix the two hangers we cut off to get the exhaust where it sits now.
That sounds interesting, those emissions holes I thought were becoming rare in aftermarket heads. I recall in 1996 removing the air pump and pipes from my Mark VII(with a head/intake swap), and using short bolts to plug those holes.
That will make you happy to have it quieter and begin working on the tune.